Unofficial weight reduction thread

Nice, lets get this thread rolling again.

I really want to see where I am at. Where is the best place to weight a car?

My most recently weight reduction mod is the battery. I tried the ETX-9 Deka and it died on me after a month. After, I bought the ETX-14 Deka for 65.00 Shipped at tristatebattery.com. It starts the car better than my 45 pound battery and it is still going for 4 months no problem. It only weights about 11.5 pounds.
 
HGL1668 said:
Nice, lets get this thread rolling again.

I really want to see where I am at. Where is the best place to weight a car?

My most recently weight reduction mod is the battery. I tried the ETX-9 Deka and it died on me after a month. After, I bought the ETX-14 Deka for 65.00 Shipped at tristatebattery.com. It starts the car better than my 45 pound battery and it is still going for 4 months no problem. It only weights about 11.5 pounds.
Click to expand...

I have the Deka EXT16L. Love it.
 
HGL1668 said:
Nice, lets get this thread rolling again.

I really want to see where I am at. Where is the best place to weight a car?

My most recently weight reduction mod is the battery. I tried the ETX-9 Deka and it died on me after a month. After, I bought the ETX-14 Deka for 65.00 Shipped at tristatebattery.com. It starts the car better than my 45 pound battery and it is still going for 4 months no problem. It only weights about 11.5 pounds.
Click to expand...
Hugo, let us know how the ETX-14 works out for you in the long run. I went with a bigger unit (16.4lbs) simply for the added CCAs. I was considering this though. Nice work man!

Might I suggest getting a Battery Tender for the times you leave the car sitting more than 2wks. I know there's some debate on which battery tender to use for the AGM batteries but mine has worked great so far. I also installed a voltmeter that tells me the batt voltage. It's been helpful for these "racing" batteries.

Here's mine. I was missing a bolt on the bracket at the time.
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20110701_213600.jpg
    IMG_20110701_213600.jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 1,028
i had a braile back in the day... loved it until i let the car sit... that's when it died and could not be recessitated.

these days i rock big heavy batteries i can let sit for months without dying. lol.
 
Regan, the ETX-14 is working great so far with no hiccups. Starts the car better than the factory one. I have left the car alone for 4 days straight and it still starts. The CCA is actually double the suggested when putting it on the tester.

I like your setup, it looks clean. Mine look like I put it together in a hurry. I have double sided tape on the bottom and ziptites.
 
So anyone know which Dekas fit in the Dali mount?
 
maybe i missed it, but anyone remove the factory alarm? is there any weight there?
 
Regan, what suspension did you get to safe weight. I am thinking about ditching my NA2-R suspension for the KW V3. Wonder how heavy the V3s are.
 
HGL1668 said:
Regan, what suspension did you get to safe weight. I am thinking about ditching my NA2-R suspension for the KW V3. Wonder how heavy the V3s are.
Click to expand...
I ended up with the DG-5 coilovers designed by Tsuchiya's company. Which is 30-way adjustable, fully threaded all aluminum body, Swift springs at the rates I wanted, and independently adjustable spring preload and bottom bracket height adjustment. It also comes with their own rubber padded pillow ball mounts. Most importantly, I've really fallen in love with them and can't wait for the next track session. (Thanks to Steven for hooking a brother up btw!). I wrote down their weights somewhere. They're decently lightweight. If you want these... ask around, you can find them for close to the price of KW V3s.

Regarding the KW V3s...At the risk of getting crucified by the loyal Prime KW V3 lovers (:biggrin:) I personally feel the KWs are great but just too darn expensive for what you get. I chose differently because the KWs have a steel body (heavier), it doesn't have a separate adjustable bottom bracket (important to me) and I also wanted Swift springs (which are marginally lighter and matched). I also didn't want to fuss with the separate rebound/compression adjustments (but that's just me). I'm also shocked that for the money you spend... you have to use your stock upper cup mounts or whatever they're called. A few of our trusted local friends actually love the KW V3 so i'm sure it's a very nice unit. Hey, if Billy likes them i'd be willing to give them a try. If they were maybe $1900 i'd be all over them even given it's shortcomings. A set of JRZ's would be pure sex though :)
 
HGL1668 said:
Regan, the ETX-14 is working great so far with no hiccups. Starts the car better than the factory one. I have left the car alone for 4 days straight and it still starts. The CCA is actually double the suggested when putting it on the tester.

I like your setup, it looks clean. Mine look like I put it together in a hurry. I have double sided tape on the bottom and ziptites.
Click to expand...
Not sure if this helps... but in my experience car batteries live a short life when they're allowed to drain past say 50% or less. It's not how long can they sustain a charge for until it's dead but it's how long you keep them charged that will determine it's longevity. I'm not sure about our AGM batteries vs. lead acids but imho a battery conditioner of some type is always a good idea for cars that are not daily drivers.

btw... you definitely want a secure battery mount!! that's the last thing you want bouncing around :biggrin:
 
RYU said:
Hugo, let us know how the ETX-14 works out for you in the long run. I went with a bigger unit (16.4lbs) simply for the added CCAs. I was considering this though. Nice work man!

Might I suggest getting a Battery Tender for the times you leave the car sitting more than 2wks. I know there's some debate on which battery tender to use for the AGM batteries but mine has worked great so far. I also installed a voltmeter that tells me the batt voltage. It's been helpful for these "racing" batteries.

Here's mine. I was missing a bolt on the bracket at the time.
attachment.php
Click to expand...

Nice! I love gadgets on my car as well. Only thing I don't like about this is that it's mounted under the hood, so you need to pop your hood to view it. Normally when I don't drive nsx for awhile I have a car cover on it. I have a analog meter mounted on the wall where I can see it. That's just me though. Different strokes for different folks:biggrin:
 
I swear by Soichiro's blacksmith father, I will get this car down to 999kg.

GT-ROM Speedglass: save 2.0kg. 97020yen.

any ideas on a fuel cell? I'm thinking right behind the radiator.
 
Last edited:
001.jpg


glass3.jpg
glass_in_02.gif


save 4.41lbs


another option is the jdm nsx windshield. it's lighter because USA requires thicker glass for DOT spec. the NSX-R goes even thinner than that. no solid numbers atm.
 
Last edited:
Most importantly that weight is high up... not all weight is equal.
 
Ok, while driving to the keys, I decided to stop and weight the car, I had 3/4 of a tank full and our trunk full of luggage, also I had the targa holder/engine cover just for this trip installed again (first time after almost 3 years) the result:

3004 lbs ... Again, 3/4 of a tank, without me ...

I am very happy because I know our luggage was @ least 20 lb's and the cover another @ least 20! Which makes me believe my NSX weights around 2960 lb's total, with my weight reduction, my lighter pride exhaust + pipes + the Downforce Intake, I am very satisfied with the car's performance, couldn't be happier!


Cheers!
 
Last edited:
tsuchiya;1454690 any ideas on a fuel cell? I'm thinking right behind the radiator.[/QUOTE said:
Just put it on the floor in front of the passenger seat, that would be better. :eek:
Click to expand...
 
TANTO said:
I wonder if Speed Glass is the OE supplier. Do we have a cost for this? TIA
Click to expand...


link

97 650 Japanese yen = 1 244.93985 U.S. dollars

plus shipping and installation.


"The factory windshield is lighter than aftermarket replacement units. The inner and outer panels of Honda windshields are customarily 2.0 millimeters thick. The NSX's inner glass has been reduced to 1.8 millimeters, saving 1.36 pounds. It is made by Asahi."

an OEM replacement windshield was $800 in 1998.
 

Similar threads

Track Addict
NSX Giant For Sale Post ***NSX Garage Clearance sale!***
2
Replies
41
Views
6K
Elnoyl
E
furinax
1992 NSX coupe Black/Black 5-Speed 90000 JH4NA1151NT000015
Replies
2
Views
4K
furinax
furinax
stuntman
  • Sticky
How to size and select tires for PERFORMANCE - MotoIQ
Replies
2
Views
6K
Honcho
Honcho
nsxsupra
Nsxsupra's long journey to relive the dream
Replies
16
Views
6K
RX7 RAGE
RX7 RAGE
C
  • Locked
1995 NSX coupe Red/Black 5-Speed 74000 JH4NA1184ST000452
Replies
1
Views
4K
cordell_pearce
C
Back
Top