Unofficial weight reduction thread

Except for missing sunvisors(which I never used), being able to see the engine(which I like) and having some pretty carbon fiber in place of a stereo, the only ugly part is the missing passenger seat. I can put the seat back in few minutes. May I will just throw a pillow on the floor insteaad. You can bet it will be a feather pillow. Ok, so may this is a little extreme, but if I was normal I would have bought a Camry. Wait, I actually had a Camry. With one seat. And 300hp.
 
CD player and brackets off my car was 11lbs. Working on battery next.
 
I agree with Poohbear that said this weight reduction can get out of hand. The car is light as it is but reducing weight by these means is pretty out there. Just add a turbocharger and enjoy the car as it is. IF you really want to go faster than weight reduction is not the best route. This isn't a Spec Miata so unless these are your track cars I wouldn't decimate them so much and start removing Air conditioning and carpeting.
 
I agree with Poohbear that said this weight reduction can get out of hand. The car is light as it is but reducing weight by these means is pretty out there. Just add a turbocharger and enjoy the car as it is. IF you really want to go faster than weight reduction is not the best route. This isn't a Spec Miata so unless these are your track cars I wouldn't decimate them so much and start removing Air conditioning and carpeting.

I don't want to carry on with this conversation because this thread is not about that. This thread is more for guys that are already convinced this is worthwhile. I am one of those guys. I have removed a good 200 pounds off the car and I still have everything that I want including AC and sound insulation. There is plenty of fat to trim on this car. Last I weighed my car with 1/4 tank on the scale at the track it showed 2950 or so and I had at least 50 pounds of my personal gear in the car still. So that is not wet weight but still clearly lighter tha stock. Since then I have saved another 16 pounds with a titanium exhaust, another 11 with removal of the useless CD changer and bracket, and I am still removing the subwoofer, going with a lightweight battery, and saving more weight with my suspension. The battery will save me another 12. So CD changer, exhaust change, and coilover will probably net another 50 pounds.

When you drive the same car back to back and there is 250-300 pounds of weight difference you can clearly feel it. I can certainly feel it on the track when I go solo versus with an instructor. The car is clearly quicker.

There are things I won't do, I will not remove AC for example. But there are things that are gone that I could care less about. Engine cover.... pffff... that was over 30 pounds...
 
Haven't read this entire thread, but I hope someone mentioned that WHERE the weight is removed is AS important as the amount (weight distribution, balance, center of gravity, etc.). And don't compromise safety!
Unsprung weight reduction yields important dividends.
 
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Haven't read this entire thread, but I hope someone mentioned that WHERE the weight is removed is AS important as the amount (weight distribution, balance, center of gravity, etc.). And don't compromise safety!
Unsprung weight reduction yields important dividends.

Heres why I wont mess around much with weight reduction. This is with a set of KW V3's setup out of the box as instructed WITH driver. The car is missing only the spare tire and tool kit. Measured with full tank of gas and in track mode. Has larger 17" BBS's with 275 / 235 combo tires...

91 coupe.

156074_464548613433_505418433_5831564_5818794_n.jpg
 
It took some time to get the parts together and set up a shop to do the work, but I finally got my car back with a weight reduction and power increase completed. This is what I did:
item stock wt new wt net loss<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
SPARE TIRE 31 0 31<o:p></o:p>
JACK 4 0 4<o:p></o:p>
TIRE COMPRESSOR 3.25 0 3.25<o:p></o:p>
TIRE CRADLE 2.5 0 2.5<o:p></o:p>
Test pipe/remove cat 22 6 16<o:p></o:p>
Cat back exhaust 43.4 20 23.4<o:p></o:p>
CF SIDE VENT 5 1 4<o:p></o:p>
NO POWER ANTENNA 2.1 0 2.1<o:p></o:p>
BRAKE SPLASH SHIELDS 3.2 0 3.2<o:p></o:p>
shields, FRNT LOW A-ARMS 0.5 0 0.5<o:p></o:p>
Rear bmpr beam now alum 23.7 8.8 14.9<o:p></o:p>
steel beam front bumper: 18 18 0<o:p></o:p>
Odessey PC680 40 16 24<o:p></o:p>
Tien RE coilovers 54.7 34.4 20.3<o:p></o:p>
Sparco wheel, hub , horn kit. 25 13 12<o:p></o:p>
Remove cd player 8 0 8<o:p></o:p>
Antennae and motor 2 0 2<o:p></o:p>
oem stereo headunit 5 1 4<o:p></o:p>
door speakers 8.8 0 8.8<o:p></o:p>
passenger footwell sub 4.4 3 1.4<o:p></o:p>
trunk carpet removed 7 0 7<o:p></o:p>
remove passenger seat 40 0 40<o:p></o:p>
oem engine cover removed 14 0 14<o:p></o:p>
trunk struts removed 2 0 2<o:p></o:p>
remove frnt, rear tow hooks 3 0 3<o:p></o:p>
Aftermarket headers 32 20 12<o:p></o:p>
remove all sun visors 2 0 2<o:p></o:p>
total lbs lost --->> 281.35

I did not get a weigh-in before the work was done, but I got a four-corner weight from Bill Lee Race Cars in Palmetto, FL after the we were done. I will scan in the weigh in sheet tomorrow. Here is the summary:
Total weight: 2710
Front: 1103
Rear: 1606
Front left: 535
Front Right: 567
Left rear: 818
right Rear: 789
Front %: 40.7%
Rear%: 59.3
left side wight: 1353 49.9%
right side weight: 1356 50.1%

Results from behind the wheel:
The power to weight improvement led to a stunning increase in the fun-to-drive quotient. I went from about 11lbs per horsepower to around 9lbs per horsepower. The throttle response is great, and the pulling power even in 5th gear at highway speeds is greatly improved.
The ride is a little harsh for my preference. I need to dial back the coilovers to a softer setting, along with raising the car 1/2 inch or so. the addition of headers and test pipes to the existing cat-back exhaust made the car MUCH LOUDER. I am now looking at replacing the test pipes with straight-through glass packs to take the decibels down a couple of notches. It is loud enough that I worry about attention from the cars with the blue lights on top.

I was worried about the change to the PC680 battery, but the change has been entirely transparent. I bought a battery tender, but have not needed to install it. I have had the car back for a month. I have driven about one a week with no issues.

The drop to 2710 was a little more than I expected. I am guessing that the early models like mine were a little lighter than the later models.

My next stop is to get the car to 2600 or so. The following mods should get me close: lighter wheels, lighter tires, aluminum center hat brake upgrade, second generation ABS, and a headlight conversion.

After this, it is time to convince my wife that and upgrade to a 3.6 to 3.8 liter engine is a good idea.

I also intend to get a pair of lightweight seats(20lb each?) instead of just having a single stock driver's seat.

I have no regrets. Other than the lounder exhaust, the car is more fun to drive all around. I never listened to the stereo anyway, and that is the only real comfort and convenience item that I lost besides the passenger seat.
 
nice!.....couldnt agree more, the benefits of weight reduction cant be understated.......B pillars and a lexan hatch are good for about 20......
 
My car weights 2952lbs with me in it, (185lbs).

So I am at 2767lbs!!! I got the car weighted when I did my corner balancing. Not bad.

Now add another 100lbs or so of a turbo kit, still not bad I guess.

-MSR
 
Haven't read this entire thread, but I hope someone mentioned that WHERE the weight is removed is AS important as the amount (weight distribution, balance, center of gravity, etc.). And don't compromise safety!
Unsprung weight reduction yields important dividends.
Agreed! Lowering the center of gravity by removing weight up high, and reducing the polar moments by removing weight in the furthest forward and rearward points of the car (bumpers) is the most important and has a big impact on the cars handling. Changing the weight distribution of the car also makes a substantial change in the cars handling, balance, response, ability to put power down, etc...

Keep in mind 30lbs is ~1% of total vehicle weight. Changing the weight distribution of the car by 1% is HUGE. 2-3% is a pretty substantial change that can be felt on track.

It took some time to get the parts together and set up a shop to do the work, but I finally got my car back with a weight reduction and power increase completed. This is what I did:

Item: stock wt / new wt / net loss

SPARE TIRE: 31 / 0 / 31
JACK: 4 / 0 / 4
TIRE COMPRESSOR: 3.25 / 0 / 3.25
TIRE CRADLE: 2.5 / 0 / 2.5
Test pipe/remove cat: 22 / 6 / 16
Cat back exhaust: 43.4 / 20 / 23.4
CF SIDE VENT: 5 / 1 / 4
NO POWER ANTENNA: 2.1 / 0 / 2.1
BRAKE SPLASH SHIELDS: 3.2 / 0 / 3.2
Shields, FRNT LOW A-ARMS: 0.5 / 0 / 0.5
Rear bumper beam (now aluminum): 23.7 / 8.8 / 14.9
Steel beam front bumper: 18 / 18 / 0
Odessey PC680 Battery: 40 / 16 / 24
Tien RE coilovers: 54.7 / 34.4 / 20.3
Sparco wheel, hub , horn kit: 25 / 13 / 12
Remove cd player: 8 / 0 / 8
Antennae and motor: 2 / 0 / 2
OEM stereo headunit: 5 / 1 / 4
Door speakers: 8.8 / 0 / 8.8
Passenger footwell subwoofer: 4.4 / 3 / 1.4
Trunk carpet removed: 7 / 0 / 7
Remove passenger seat: 40 / 0 / 40
OEM engine cover removed: 14 / 0 / 14
Trunk struts removed: 2 / 0 / 2
Remove front & rear tow hooks: 3 / 0 / 3
Aftermarket headers: 32 / 20 / 12
Remove all sun visors: 2 / 0 / 2

Total lbs lost --->> 281.35

I did not get a weigh-in before the work was done, but I got a four-corner weight from Bill Lee Race Cars in Palmetto, FL after the we were done. I will scan in the weigh in sheet tomorrow. Here is the summary:

Total weight: 2,710
Front: 1,103
Rear: 1,606
Front left: 535
Front Right: 567
Left rear: 818
Right Rear: 789
Front %: 40.7%
Rear%: 59.3
Left side weight: 1,353 49.9%
Right side weight: 1,356 50.1%

Results from behind the wheel:
The power to weight improvement led to a stunning increase in the fun-to-drive quotient. I went from about 11lbs per horsepower to around 9lbs per horsepower. The throttle response is great, and the pulling power even in 5th gear at highway speeds is greatly improved.
The ride is a little harsh for my preference. I need to dial back the coilovers to a softer setting, along with raising the car 1/2 inch or so. the addition of headers and test pipes to the existing cat-back exhaust made the car MUCH LOUDER. I am now looking at replacing the test pipes with straight-through glass packs to take the decibels down a couple of notches. It is loud enough that I worry about attention from the cars with the blue lights on top.

I was worried about the change to the PC680 battery, but the change has been entirely transparent. I bought a battery tender, but have not needed to install it. I have had the car back for a month. I have driven about one a week with no issues.

The drop to 2710 was a little more than I expected. I am guessing that the early models like mine were a little lighter than the later models.

My next stop is to get the car to 2600 or so. The following mods should get me close: lighter wheels, lighter tires, aluminum center hat brake upgrade, second generation ABS, and a headlight conversion.

After this, it is time to convince my wife that and upgrade to a 3.6 to 3.8 liter engine is a good idea.

I also intend to get a pair of lightweight seats(20lb each?) instead of just having a single stock driver's seat.

I have no regrets. Other than the lounder exhaust, the car is more fun to drive all around. I never listened to the stereo anyway, and that is the only real comfort and convenience item that I lost besides the passenger seat.
I listed the ones I felt EVERYONE should do in bold. 60lb weight loss

nice!.....couldnt agree more, the benefits of weight reduction cant be understated.......B pillars and a lexan hatch are good for about 20......
Hatch and B-pillars are some of the highest parts of the car. Reducing weight up high is HUGE.


Billy
 
Here's my weight reduction...I havent weighed my car yet tho.

Spare tire 29.4
Spare tire bracket 2
Entire Tool Kit except for Jack 7
CD change + bracket 6.7
Antenna 1.7
Trunk mat 3
Koni+Eibach 7
02 Conversion 37
Front bumper beam 19.2
Tow Hook 1
Rear bumper beam 18.7
Headers 12
Exhaust 17
Cats 13
Type R wing 8
Driver racing seat and rails 9

Added STMPO bar -3
Added HRE wheels -7

94.6 lb reduction in the front
96.1 lb reduction in the rear
 
^ How safe is it to remove the rear/front bumper beam entirely?

I know STMPO has a lighter rear aluminum beam. Don't know about the front.
 
Sorry, should have clarified... The front and rear bumper beams were replaced, not removed.

Front was replaced with a JDM ITR beam. Needed a bit of customizing to get it to fit. This beam was maybe 4 lbs.

Rear was replaced with a custom aluminum beam from the Metal supermarket. T6061 3.5" square beam. Dont remember the length, 44 inches (?), but the whole beam weighted 5 lbs.
 
Sorry, should have clarified... The front and rear bumper beams were replaced, not removed.

Front was replaced with a JDM ITR beam. Needed a bit of customizing to get it to fit. This beam was maybe 4 lbs.

Rear was replaced with a custom aluminum beam from the Metal supermarket. T6061 3.5" square beam. Dont remember the length, 44 inches (?), but the whole beam weighted 5 lbs.

with that set up... your just as safe as stock....

Removing without replacement would not be ideal in the front...

Regards
 
dablackgoku1234, Ross, thanks for clearing that up with bumper beams.

Wondering if anyone tried the weight saving options below:

1) Carpets

I have been trying to find lighter carpet options to save weights while going for the NSX-R red carpet look, but haven't found anything light. I know the OEM carpet is heavy because there are mass backings as a sound insulator. Most carpet manufacture won't make carpet without backings. Or does anyone know where I can find those?

Another option is Ozite (similar to material around sub-woofer box). Since OEM carpets are close to 25 pounds, with Ozite, it is around 5-6 pounds which can cover the carpet area. They even have red Ozite for NSX-R look.

A more expensive option might be a custom mold CF flooring like the 360CS.

2) Remove sound deadening material

I don't know where they are located but I heard they are really hard to remove. Require dry ice, flat head driver, and few days of work. Wonder where all those are located, and how much will that affect the cabin noise.

3) Remove OEM Stereo but keep or get better speakers and a light after market amp with Ipod/MP3 player.

Don't know if that will save weight.

4) Remove undercoating in the wheel well.

The black tar stuff under the wheel well. Paint it black after removing all the undercoating. I heard you can save 8-10 pounds but it is a PITA.

Goal is to achieve 2600 pounds with A/C and interior panels. Possible?
 
2) Remove sound deadening material

I don't know where they are located but I heard they are really hard to remove. Require dry ice, flat head driver, and few days of work. Wonder where all those are located, and how much will that affect the cabin noise.

There is a big rubber/foam insulation piece behind the seats. It's not too hard to take out as its not glued in. It just kinda wedged in behind a bunch of components. You will have to remove a few components to get it out. With a few strategic cuts, you can get it out in all one piece and put it back in without much of a problem. It probably weighs 15 lbs iirc.
 
this is the greatest thread I've seen on prime. cheers to everyone.


some new thoughts:

- is the JDM wood trim lighter than the standard USA trim?

- how much does the standard starter weigh, and what are the aftermarket options? I'd guess that a lightweight replacement could save 7lbs at most.

- lightweight, maybe titanium, engine mounts.

- how about drilling holes in the aluminum to save weight (or even increase rigidity)

57821592.jpg



- paper stickers for license plates? (aught to save quite a bit right there, front and back)
 
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From your ideas, I think the lightweight starter and drilling holes are more realistic. However, I am not about to drill holes in my doors.

My goal is to retain OEM look with A/C, 2 seats, and some sort radio/music.

I guess I will be the first one to try these w/MP3 player in my car after taking out the OEM stereo setup. The mini amp weights at 216g. I heard they sound pretty decent:

Miniamp1.jpg

Miniamp.jpg


Big Crank ETX9 Battery for $56 (aka re-badged B106 Braille, or aka the fancy pansy battery that someone had mentioned)

big-etx9_lg.jpg
 
I'm heading to the scales this weekend and hope to be under 2800lbs even after my LoveFab install. Has anyone removed their ABS yet?

I would like to know where you lost that weight with a NSX-T. I also have the LoveFab system and would love to lose that kind of weight!

Give us a list of your diet if you dont mind:tongue:
 
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