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Introducing the Acura NSX DIY LED Taillight Kit

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If I wanted to be added to the list now for a 02+ red 3-bar with yellow turns, how far out will it be until I can expect to see the parts for the install?

If I wanted to move forward now, can I just be next on the list or do you require a deposit? If so, how much?
 
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Chris,

Still waiting for your reply to my PM dude!
 
Expect that 3-4 kits will be made a month, so I'm assuming at least 3 months. The wait time might vary, according to how many kits I can get out during my 1 month break in between semesters. During the break, I'll be able to work during the week, as opposed to just weekends.

I do not require deposits until you are next in line for the taillights. I use the deposit money to cover supply costs, and I only buy supplies to cover one or two sets at a time.
HIJACKER said:
If I wanted to be added to the list now for a 02+ red 3-bar with yellow turns, how far out will it be until I can expect to see the parts for the install?

If I wanted to move forward now, can I just be next on the list or do you require a deposit? If so, how much?
Click to expand...
 
It is $550 shipped if you plan to use the red/orange LEDs, as opposed to the pure red.

The pure red match the 3rd brake light closer than the red/orange.
SOURCENSX said:
Chris,

I have been anti LED tails but I am finally seeing the "light":tongue:


Add me to your list.

3 bar 91-01 version.

550?? Is that correct?
Click to expand...
 
Update

After next week, I will be on a one month vacation from school. My production rate will speed up during this time, since I'll have more time. Hopefully this will help out those people anxiously waiting for taillight kits.

Oh Trev, I'll be sending your pack of spare parts too, I haven't forgot about you. :wink:
 
Chris,

Thanks for the LED set. I am not in anyway shitting on this thread. Just wanted to let everyone know that the load resistors get REALLY hot. It melted a bunch of stuff and I caught it in time before it caused a short circuit.

I plan on extending the load resistor wires so I can mount them onto the left and right side of the trunk away from anything and everything. Including it's own wires.
 
PoKnow said:
Chris,

Thanks for the LED set. I am not in anyway shitting on this thread. Just wanted to let everyone know that the load resistors get REALLY hot. It melted a bunch of stuff and I caught it in time before it caused a short circuit.

I plan on extending the load resistor wires so I can mount them onto the left and right side of the trunk away from anything and everything. Including it's own wires.
Click to expand...

Maybe Chris can note this issue and implement a safer design on future sets?
 
The load resistors are basically like light bulbs that don't light up. They consume a lot of current and dissipate the energy through heat.

One of the reasons I mount the load resistors away from the taillights is that they can, in fact, melt the taillight plastic. I tell the customers to mount them on a metallic surface of the vehicle, to dissipate the heat more efficiently.

I knew by using the load resistors for the parking/brake lights would cause the load resistors to get excessively hot. With the turn signals, the problem isn't really noticeable, because the power flashes on and off, and it doesn't get the resistors hot enough fast enough.

We have a couple options for this.

1. I can extend the load resistor wiring by a couple feet, to be mounted away from anything that could be potentially melted.

2. You can disable your "bulb out" warning light to the gauge cluster, by basically cutting the power wire to the gauge cluster.

It's your choice. If it was me, I'd find the power wire to the gauge cluster, cut the wire, and install a simple on/off switch for this power wire to the warning light. This way you can turn the light off when you have LED taillights installed, and turn the warning light back on if you decide to switch back to stock taillights.
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Thanks for your input Chris. Does this mean that only the solo load resistors get hot?

What about the one that comes off the brake lights?

I have 4 load resistors... I don't have turn signal. I was planning on extending all 4.

apkarian100 said:
The load resistors are basically like light bulbs that don't light up. They consume a lot of current and dissipate the energy through heat.

One of the reasons I mount the load resistors away from the taillights is that they can, in fact, melt the taillight plastic. I tell the customers to mount them on a metallic surface of the vehicle, to dissipate the heat more efficiently.

I knew by using the load resistors for the parking/brake lights would cause the load resistors to get excessively hot. With the turn signals, the problem isn't really noticeable, because the power flashes on and off, and it doesn't get the resistors hot enough fast enough.

We have a couple options for this.

1. I can extend the load resistor wiring by a couple feet, to be mounted away from anything that could be potentially melted.

2. You can disable your "bulb out" warning light to the gauge cluster, by basically cutting the power wire to the gauge cluster.

It's your choice. If it was me, I'd find the power wire to the gauge cluster, cut the wire, and install a simple on/off switch for this power wire to the warning light. This way you can turn the light off when you have LED taillights installed, and turn the warning light back on if you decide to switch back to stock taillights.
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Click to expand...
 
No, all four load resistors on the parking/brake light circuit get hot. The parking/brake lights have 2 bulbs per side, so I had to add in 1 load resistor per bulb. It's a good idea to extend all 4 of your load resistors.
PoKnow said:
Thanks for your input Chris. Does this mean that only the solo load resistors get hot?

What about the one that comes off the brake lights?

I have 4 load resistors... I don't have turn signal. I was planning on extending all 4.
Click to expand...

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apkarian100 said:
No, all four load resistors on the parking/brake light circuit get hot. The parking/brake lights have 2 bulbs per side, so I had to add in 1 load resistor per bulb. It's a good idea to extend all 4 of your load resistors.

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Click to expand...

Yes they do get hot... hot enough to melt my 1st series of tie wrap/cable-ties I used. I strategicly placed them in various spots so they don't cause a fire or melt the factory wiring. Keep that in mind when re-installing your lights. They do look great I'd have to say one of the best mods I've done to my car to date. :biggrin:
 
Ok, so the Bulb out warning light on the dash does nothing once the LEDs are installed right? That is, they wont tell you if the LEDs are out or if something is not lit up in the rear. The purpose of the load resistors is to ensure the warning light doen't go off and bug the driver. But the resistors get hot and can cause issues. Seems to me, the safest and easiest solution is to put some tape over the warning light to obscure it and remove all the resistors...

in this case, would I just cut the resistor wires? would that interfere with the tail light function?

Just checking out my options! I still love the lights!
 
Yes, you can just cut the load resistors off. Make sure, when you do, that you must seal off the cut wires that the load were attached do, by either electrical tape, liquid electrical tape, etc. If one of these wires contact ground or some other wiring, there could be problems with your taillights.
Sandman1962 said:
Ok, so the Bulb out warning light on the dash does nothing once the LEDs are installed right? That is, they wont tell you if the LEDs are out or if something is not lit up in the rear. The purpose of the load resistors is to ensure the warning light doen't go off and bug the driver. But the resistors get hot and can cause issues. Seems to me, the safest and easiest solution is to put some tape over the warning light to obscure it and remove all the resistors...

in this case, would I just cut the resistor wires? would that interfere with the tail light function?

Just checking out my options! I still love the lights!
Click to expand...

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I haven't had any problem with my load resistors, I used some strong Velcro to attach the rear resistors under the trunk carpet to the metal and covered them with heat resistant electrical tape, the blinker resistors I did the same and attached them away from any plastic parts up near the blinkers. Only one of my resistors seems to get really hot.
 
The signal wire to activate the brake warning light is on the gauge cluster wiring harness. There are 2 wiring harnesses that go to the gauge cluster though. On the 95-96 NSX the wire is B8, on the 91-94 NSX, it's B2. The wire color is Black/White. I am unsure about the 97+ cluster pin designation. The wire should be Black/White still. I have yet to figure why Acura decided to change up the wiring configuration for the different model years.....
PoKnow said:
Removing the load resistors seems like the way to go.

Has anyone had luck with this?

Chris, do you have any information on where I would add that switch to disable the light?
Click to expand...

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