I have Drew's abs bleeder tool

kkim said:
hal,

Did you receive the stickers I mailed?

Very nice box! :cool:

No not yet. I had you mail them to my work so they might be there when I go in tomorrow. If they are, I 'll put them on...................
 
I've got it now, will get to bleed the brakes next weekend, hopefully. thanks!
 
Picking up my car this weekend it need the flush so can I be put on the list? Where is the list now. any updates?
 
OK I see this is where the list is? I will contact the next person and send it your way or email me your address.
 
Why don't people have a legit brake shop with the proper capital, tools and insurance backing do the job?

Doing anything safety related is like driving a car without a seatbelt and car insurance.... just not worth it.

Years ago I had a friend that wanted to work on his own brakes.

To sum it up, the brakes failed a week later, he crashed his car into a tree with enough force, that his friend's sunglasses shot off his face, made both headlights fly off 50 feet from the car.

The car was totalled.

He snapped his femur and they were worried that the sharp femur bones would severe his femoral artery which could kill him in a matter of seconds.

In the end he was sue and lost.

If the motive for doing your own brakes is $$$, then sell the NSX and buy something affordable to up keep.

If it's due to a "lack" of good brake shops, move someone else.

It's just not worth the risk.
 
I may be missing something, but the instructions from DanoLand appears to apply to the earlier ABS system, as my 2000 system does not remotely resemble the illustrations/instructions. Where have I gone wrong? (again!!)
I do not find a "maintence port" on the system, much less the 4 electrical hookup!!:confused:

I got your tips right here!!! :)

Just did mine for the first time. Pretty easy and took about 1.5 hours. Then I realized 1) I screwed it up (ABS light came on) and 2) I didn't read the directions and 3) I didn't realize I had everything minus the fluid to do the job!

:redface:

So here are the tips that might help some of you:

1) Like Rago - it is in there!: I got the DanOLand instructions in the box and the first thing it said was to setup and install a small wired switch. I didn't have any of that stuff so off to radio shack where I killed a 1/2 hour buying a bunch of stuff to make a switch to activate the pump to clear the solenoids. Guess what - when boxing it back up I found the switch was already in the box with the tool!!! The only 2 things you need are a turkey baster and the brake fluid to do the job right.

2) It is just like bleeding your brakes!: OK - this is obvious now but wasn't to me when reading this. I thought you just suck out the fluid with the baster, turn the tool to evac the rest of the fluid, run the pump for 30 seconds, filler back up - and done! WRONG!!!

The basic steps are:
1-Turkey baster the fluid and fill back up
2-Evac the fluid by turning open and then back closed
3-Fill the overflow all the way
4-Run the pump for 30 seconds

and repeat steps 2,3,and 4 several times (like 4 times) to make sure you have 100% clean and new brake fluid throughout.

3) Catch as catch can!: Put something UNDER the bleed valve as it will leak some of the brake fluid on whatever is under your car. A couple rags should do it.

4) The first time you release the bleed valve be ready to close it quickly as there is more fluid then the "tool" will hold. You don't want it dumping out the top and all over your paint as brake fluid is up there with sulfuric acid for things to keep off the paint.

5) I know this is counter intuitive for a guy but read the instructions 1x before you start. It is well documented but if you try to do it step by step you will probably mess it up like I did.

That's about it for tips. After I saw the light for ABS and realized what I did wrong I only had a few mins to redo the whole procedure. I was able to do it right this time in less then 10 mins (probably closer to 5). It was VERY simple the 2nd time and it made me want to buy the tool and do it for any friend for free.
 
I may be missing something, but the instructions from DanoLand appears to apply to the earlier ABS system, as my 2000 system does not remotely resemble the illustrations/instructions. Where have I gone wrong? (again!!)
I do not find a "maintence port" on the system, much less the 4 electrical hookup!!:confused:

2000+ NSX has different ABS modulator which does not require bleeding like the older system.

AS for the comments about doing your own work on the brake, I do agree to certain extent but it all depends on who you trust and what you are capable of doing mechanically. Bleeding the ABS system on the NSX is relatively simple and only requires the use of the bleeder tool which people are sharing in this thread. At the end it's up to you to make the decision.
 
Thank you - I thought that now my eyesight was going too!!:biggrin:

2000+ NSX has different ABS modulator which does not require bleeding like the older system.

AS for the comments about doing your own work on the brake, I do agree to certain extent but it all depends on who you trust and what you are capable of doing mechanically. Bleeding the ABS system on the NSX is relatively simple and only requires the use of the bleeder tool which people are sharing in this thread. At the end it's up to you to make the decision.
 
Is this something that needs to be done periodically or is once enough ?
I hear a sound from under the front hood that almost sounds like a fan bearing going out, is that what the abs sounds like when it needs to be blead ? (I'll try to record the sound)
 
Is this something that needs to be done periodically or is once enough ?
I hear a sound from under the front hood that almost sounds like a fan bearing going out, is that what the abs sounds like when it needs to be blead ? (I'll try to record the sound)

The ABS pump usually sounds like a "clicking" and you can hear it coming from the front left as soon as the car moves forward and reaches 3mph. Most of them only run 3-20 seconds and then stop once the accumulator is pressurized again. It can run up to 120 seconds before it times out but that's rare.

I've read posts that stated it may be "normal" for the ABS pump to run for a short period (3-20 seconds) after the first startup each day (after the car actually moves forward of course). I'm not sure that's entirely true. Mine never used to run then suddenly started running for 5-10 seconds every morning. I'm pretty sure one of the solenoids had something (foreign particle) holding it open and allowing back flow into the reservoir and causing overflow. Before I flushed the system, I'm pretty sure the particle had already freed itself because the reservoir level dropped back down (minus what had spilled out) but the pump still ran each morning. When I flushed the system there was a lot of air/foam (probably from the ABS pump pushing the fluid backwards up into the reservoir and then back down the inlets). I'm thinking this air effected the accumulators ability to hold the correct pressure overnight. Once we flushed and bled the system the pump no longer runs and the system stays pressurized.

By the way, please take me off the waiting list if there is one.
 
:smile:
Can you please add me to the waiting list??

Thanks very much!

Randy
 
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