hal,
Did you receive the stickers I mailed?
Very nice box!
Did you receive the stickers I mailed?
Very nice box!
kkim said:hal,
Did you receive the stickers I mailed?
Very nice box!
I got your tips right here!!!
Just did mine for the first time. Pretty easy and took about 1.5 hours. Then I realized 1) I screwed it up (ABS light came on) and 2) I didn't read the directions and 3) I didn't realize I had everything minus the fluid to do the job!
:redface:
So here are the tips that might help some of you:
1) Like Rago - it is in there!: I got the DanOLand instructions in the box and the first thing it said was to setup and install a small wired switch. I didn't have any of that stuff so off to radio shack where I killed a 1/2 hour buying a bunch of stuff to make a switch to activate the pump to clear the solenoids. Guess what - when boxing it back up I found the switch was already in the box with the tool!!! The only 2 things you need are a turkey baster and the brake fluid to do the job right.
2) It is just like bleeding your brakes!: OK - this is obvious now but wasn't to me when reading this. I thought you just suck out the fluid with the baster, turn the tool to evac the rest of the fluid, run the pump for 30 seconds, filler back up - and done! WRONG!!!
The basic steps are:
1-Turkey baster the fluid and fill back up
2-Evac the fluid by turning open and then back closed
3-Fill the overflow all the way
4-Run the pump for 30 seconds
and repeat steps 2,3,and 4 several times (like 4 times) to make sure you have 100% clean and new brake fluid throughout.
3) Catch as catch can!: Put something UNDER the bleed valve as it will leak some of the brake fluid on whatever is under your car. A couple rags should do it.
4) The first time you release the bleed valve be ready to close it quickly as there is more fluid then the "tool" will hold. You don't want it dumping out the top and all over your paint as brake fluid is up there with sulfuric acid for things to keep off the paint.
5) I know this is counter intuitive for a guy but read the instructions 1x before you start. It is well documented but if you try to do it step by step you will probably mess it up like I did.
That's about it for tips. After I saw the light for ABS and realized what I did wrong I only had a few mins to redo the whole procedure. I was able to do it right this time in less then 10 mins (probably closer to 5). It was VERY simple the 2nd time and it made me want to buy the tool and do it for any friend for free.
I may be missing something, but the instructions from DanoLand appears to apply to the earlier ABS system, as my 2000 system does not remotely resemble the illustrations/instructions. Where have I gone wrong? (again!!)
I do not find a "maintence port" on the system, much less the 4 electrical hookup!!
2000+ NSX has different ABS modulator which does not require bleeding like the older system.
AS for the comments about doing your own work on the brake, I do agree to certain extent but it all depends on who you trust and what you are capable of doing mechanically. Bleeding the ABS system on the NSX is relatively simple and only requires the use of the bleeder tool which people are sharing in this thread. At the end it's up to you to make the decision.
OK I see this is where the list is? I will contact the next person and send it your way or email me your address.
Heeltoe914, please take me off the waiting list. I already bought the tool :biggrin: , thanks.
Is this something that needs to be done periodically or is once enough ?
I hear a sound from under the front hood that almost sounds like a fan bearing going out, is that what the abs sounds like when it needs to be blead ? (I'll try to record the sound)