Scorp,
I stuck with the tank they got me. I just have to close it very carefully.
HP Turbo Installation Started
- Thread starter scorp965
- Start date
Scorp,
I stuck with the tank they got me. I just have to close it very carefully.
You can put a grommet in there if you are worried about the rubbing, we always file down the hold as not to make sharp, but somewhat smooth. It takes about 10 min to get it where it won't rub a hole in the hose. If you don't want to file it smooth, we can provide a grommet for you, or you can pick one up at your local hardware store. Very good question though, not a lot of people think of that:wink:
Jimmy:biggrin:
Thank you Jimmy, I will contact Nathan on Monday, but will have better time line Sunday.
Also, regarding the AEM, since the AEM you are providing will not work with OBDII cars, therefore, we need to find another solution. Do not like the idea of paying over $1000 just for the harnese to make it work, but rather use a programmable unit such as the HKS F-CON Vpro unit that FactorX uses to fine tune the system.
Have you work with F-CON Vpro in the past?
Hey James, I didn't know you too are looking at these systems? Cool.
Jimmy, isn't the radiator/exhanger portion of your cooling system inside the engine bay?
Also, what about the oil return location and the 'quality' of the oil when it flows back?
Thanks
Jimmy, isn't the radiator/exhanger portion of your cooling system inside the engine bay?
Also, what about the oil return location and the 'quality' of the oil when it flows back?
Thanks
Jim,
The 'radiator' is behind the rear left wheel, mounted in the fender, to the side of the trunk - the aftercooler is in the engine bay, in the stock airbox location.
With regard to your oiling questions, the oil return is tapped into the oil pan, you can see it in this picture, above the wastegate (the blue fitting):
Jim, I had been thinking about it and think this is the most reasonable priced turbo kit out there. I won't say it is the best or the safest, but the price is in my range.
But for me, I would like to get 420rwp from this kit without upgrading engine's internals. Maybe it is wishful thinking, but I know FactorX had done it, so it could be done. We will see.
Thanks John. Did you have to drop the pan to install the oil return? I suspect not as that would prob double the install time. I presume there's a clever way to keep metal shavings from going in? Also, could you take of pic of the radiator and how's it's mounted. Drilling hole in trunk, mounting holes for rez, hole in oil pan, and holes in fender liner. Far from major mods but they ain't nothing either. Anything else I'm missing?
James, if you want 420rwhp, then I'm gonna tune for 421rwhp... :wink:
James, if you want 420rwhp, then I'm gonna tune for 421rwhp... :wink:
With every kit there will be issues, but for the price and quality of parts, you can't go wrong. As I told Scorp, I will post pics of my install once I get it back.
As far as would I recommend this kit? HIGHLY! Just make sure he has everything shipped, that would be the only concern. I waited a month as well to get the Turbo housing from Jet-hot, and the AEM ECU. With regards to things not fitting, it would be a clamp or two, but can be found in any store.
I'm very happy with my kit!!!! C U IN BOOST!
As far as would I recommend this kit? HIGHLY! Just make sure he has everything shipped, that would be the only concern. I waited a month as well to get the Turbo housing from Jet-hot, and the AEM ECU. With regards to things not fitting, it would be a clamp or two, but can be found in any store.
I'm very happy with my kit!!!! C U IN BOOST!
Jim,
If you tap the hole while there is oil, then drain the oil from the pan, it *should* remove the metal shavings, I believe this is the method the installation directions show. With the brace, etc. already removed we just dropped the oil pan to install this fitting.
If you would prefer to avoid the rear left heat exchanger arrangement several other turbo manufacturers mount the system in place of the front spare tire, where the heat exchanger can get direct airflow, and where the water tank can be mounted without any holes required. The second set of coolant lines is then run along with the radiator coolant lines. Such a system would be more efficient, would require less modification, but would also be a pain to bleed, given the length of hose.
4 Questions:
1: Has this setup been proven reliable on the track? (Facts, opinions and concerns welcome in answering this question)
2: Can this setup be run with to pass CA emissions? (What kind of reduction of power can be expected if modified with cats?)
3: What changes can be expected to the fuel economy?
4: What changes can be expected to the long-term maintenance schedule?
Thanks-
1: Has this setup been proven reliable on the track? (Facts, opinions and concerns welcome in answering this question)
2: Can this setup be run with to pass CA emissions? (What kind of reduction of power can be expected if modified with cats?)
3: What changes can be expected to the fuel economy?
4: What changes can be expected to the long-term maintenance schedule?
Thanks-
Tai,
Perhaps, when the installation is complete, I can work on answering your questions :tongue:
You could try firing off a PM to 'hp_performance' (Jimmy)... Fwiw, retrofitting some kind of a catalytic converter seems like it would be difficult, given the clearance around the exhaust pipe.
I look forward to your answers! So how are you proposing to pass smog?
Took some pics of the HP turbo today. I would recommend it to anyone, if I am in the market for FI, I would absolutely buy one without thinking twice. It should be helplessly fast and fun.
Sorry for the blurry pics, my hands was shaking when I took the pics while holding new toy I just picked up for my NSX today. Thanks again John!!
Lightweight crank pulley
This would go well with the turbo, it will be ice cool, you can lay your finger on the hot side without losing your finger:
2: You will pass CA emission some how, you absolutely do not want to run cats.
3: During normal cruising conditions, you are off boost, as long as your tune is good and you don't drive like an ass all the time, expect similar fuel economy.
4: Probably no change. I would still change the oil at every 3k miles. Use a turbo timer, or use your butt timer.
Sorry for the blurry pics, my hands was shaking when I took the pics while holding new toy I just picked up for my NSX today. Thanks again John!!
Lightweight crank pulley
This would go well with the turbo, it will be ice cool, you can lay your finger on the hot side without losing your finger:
I can answer 3 of 4 right now.
2: You will pass CA emission some how, you absolutely do not want to run cats.
3: During normal cruising conditions, you are off boost, as long as your tune is good and you don't drive like an ass all the time, expect similar fuel economy.
4: Probably no change. I would still change the oil at every 3k miles. Use a turbo timer, or use your butt timer.
The oil return is gravity fed back to the pan.
Not to clutter your thread but a forward mounted heat exhanger is kinda a bust. Joe at Turbolab pointed this out to me. The air coming off the ratiator will pretty much always be 200 degrees so it'll be impossible to to cool the charged air below that. I think 200 degrees is lower than CTSC but significantly higher than another solution. he said you lose about 2hp for every 5 degrees of temp.
Please put some pics of up of your exhanger.
Thanks
Not to clutter your thread but a forward mounted heat exhanger is kinda a bust. Joe at Turbolab pointed this out to me. The air coming off the ratiator will pretty much always be 200 degrees so it'll be impossible to to cool the charged air below that. I think 200 degrees is lower than CTSC but significantly higher than another solution. he said you lose about 2hp for every 5 degrees of temp.
Please put some pics of up of your exhanger.
Thanks
The problem with the trunk location is it sits right over the exhaust, which cooks the entire compartment, and there is no air flow. The location for the heat exchanger in the left rear fender, behind the fender liner, also has no airflow, except that generated by the attached electric fan.
After some discussion Ramon recommended mounting the system in the spare tire location, we're going to run the heater hose down the same channel as the radiator hose - this location offers several benefits to the regular trunk mounting location, primarily that of airflow. There is airflow coming from underneath the car, there is airflow coming through the front bumper, and there is airflow coming from the ventillated hood - none of these sources are present inside the trunk. True, the radiator is not a good item to be around, but neither is the exhaust, or the engine bay for that matter. This forward location also allows heat to dissipate from the heater hose as it runs the entire length of the car, and with the fuse box located inches away from the reservoir wiring in the electric pump is a trivial process.
At the moment the stock heat exchanger/electric fan is going to be used, but perhaps at a later time a custom-made heat exchanger could take its place, maybe one mounted in front of the radiator, integrated into an aluminum radiator, like the ron davis oil cooler arrangement, or mounted above the reservoir, a 'top mounted' heat exchanger filling the open space under the marga hills hood - any of these options seems to offer additional cooling potential over the left rear fender system.
Here are some pictures from today, most of the final remaining components are here, the main delay now is a backorder on the AEM computer system.
They use a small unit mounted in front of the radiator, IIRC.
Here are some additional pictures of the water tank/pump/heat exchanger arrangement, in the spare tire well:
Heat exchanger on the left:
Water pump location:
In an attempt to move the project forward we tried to use an old volvo part to obtain the oil drain pipe - the flange matched up to the turbo, but the pipe was too wide for the drain hose... this oil drain pipe, and the aem system, will complete the kit. After this I tried going to turbocity, to purchase the drain pipe, but they were out of stock on the part until at least Tuesday :frown:
Heat exchanger on the left:
Water pump location:
In an attempt to move the project forward we tried to use an old volvo part to obtain the oil drain pipe - the flange matched up to the turbo, but the pipe was too wide for the drain hose... this oil drain pipe, and the aem system, will complete the kit. After this I tried going to turbocity, to purchase the drain pipe, but they were out of stock on the part until at least Tuesday :frown:
Marc,
I appreciate the offer, I contacted HP a few days ago via PM, but also ordered the piece off of eBay earlier today - once this final item arrives we can finish the installation of the hardware, then its simply a matter of waiting for the aem, which should be available, according to HP, this coming Tuesday - until then, with the drain pipe, we can at least put the car together, and start it with the current ecu, to make it easier to move the car around the shop.
My turbo is leaking oil. 
John, sent you pm, clarify what you need, and i will send it
My turbo is leaking oil.
Do you know where from??
