Driving that thing for daily activities must be such a treat!
Honcho's Long Road to Imola Type-S Zero
- Thread starter Honcho
- Start date
It's like having a new NSX in 2024.
Thank you!This is an inspiring build! Congras.
I can't wait to collect mine in two weeks, Hopefully
Summer Wash/Detail 1
The Zero has been getting heavy use this summer. With the wet weather in the spring, we had a lot more dust and pollen than normal. This has all combined to make the car filthy. Time for a wash. What I've found with the PPF and the sealant is that you don't need to scrub the car at all. I pre-rinse, hit it with the foam cannon and then rinse off. This lifts all the grit and dust off the car.
Gotta love the Imola.
The engine bay and the front compartment also were covered in road dust. I find the same trick works here. Foam cannon and then a rinse with low pressure water on the "shower" setting on the nozzle. No pressure washer in here! All the dust and grit just rinses off.
The Zero has been getting heavy use this summer. With the wet weather in the spring, we had a lot more dust and pollen than normal. This has all combined to make the car filthy. Time for a wash. What I've found with the PPF and the sealant is that you don't need to scrub the car at all. I pre-rinse, hit it with the foam cannon and then rinse off. This lifts all the grit and dust off the car.
Gotta love the Imola.
The engine bay and the front compartment also were covered in road dust. I find the same trick works here. Foam cannon and then a rinse with low pressure water on the "shower" setting on the nozzle. No pressure washer in here! All the dust and grit just rinses off.
Wow - no electrical issues thereafter?
Next time you should protect -at least- the fuse boxes and battery somewhat, I think.
Anyway - GREAT car!
The frunk is exposed to copious amounts of water every time you drive in the rain (I know I know NSX owners are afraid their cars will melt in the rain) and the car is designed to handle it. Washing it isn't going to hurt anything lol.
Apart from this bad design (but not dramatic) ...
... I think you're right.
No, never. The electrical connectors in the front compartment are the HW-series Sumitomo. These connectors use a rubber seal to keep moisture out of the pins. Like John said, the area sees a lot of water when driving in rain and is designed to get very wet. Still, if you do this, use low pressure water (no pressure washer) and the "shower" setting on your hose. Also, be smart and don't do dumb things like blast the fuse boxes up close LOL.
I do the same thing to the engine compartment.
Summer Wash/Detail 2
After a quick dry with the leaf blower, back in under the lights.
The foam gun/gentle rinse method works really well to keep the road grime down if you do it once or twice a year. Here is the front bay after a wipe down of the black bits with 303 and the painted parts with detail spray.
Same deal for the engine compartment. It always turns out really nice with minimal scrubbing. The leaf blower is key to removing most of the water.
The underside of the hood had some grit from rain driving a few times. I try to avoid it, but Colorado weather...
Last step before tackling the interior is to wipe out and clean the side sills.
Even though I have the fresh air filter, I run with the windows down in the morning when it's cool. I like to listen to the exhaust note. This introduces dust into the cabin, unfortunately. Here's 6 months of grit.
Floor mats were also dirty. You can see the heel impressions from all the driving and heel/toe LOL. I've got a surprise plan for these...stay tuned.
After a quick dry with the leaf blower, back in under the lights.
The foam gun/gentle rinse method works really well to keep the road grime down if you do it once or twice a year. Here is the front bay after a wipe down of the black bits with 303 and the painted parts with detail spray.
Same deal for the engine compartment. It always turns out really nice with minimal scrubbing. The leaf blower is key to removing most of the water.
The underside of the hood had some grit from rain driving a few times. I try to avoid it, but Colorado weather...
Last step before tackling the interior is to wipe out and clean the side sills.
Even though I have the fresh air filter, I run with the windows down in the morning when it's cool. I like to listen to the exhaust note. This introduces dust into the cabin, unfortunately. Here's 6 months of grit.
Floor mats were also dirty. You can see the heel impressions from all the driving and heel/toe LOL. I've got a surprise plan for these...stay tuned.
Restoration Loose Ends
While detailing the front bay, I noticed these issues.
The radiator coolant aluminum section is making contact the the body. Honestly not sure if this is normal. The pipe is rigid so perhaps there is no danger of rubbing damage. Also, if I add a spacer to the front bolt, it will throw off the alignment of the bolt on the firewall. I'll need to investigate further.
Also, the NSX-R sway bar is contacting the radiator lower hose. I re-aligned the bar last fall, but it has apparently shifted left about 10-15mm. There is thankfully no damage to the hose or clamp, but I will raise the car and re-adjust. @Kaz-kzukNA1 is this normal for the NSX-R bar?
While detailing the front bay, I noticed these issues.
The radiator coolant aluminum section is making contact the the body. Honestly not sure if this is normal. The pipe is rigid so perhaps there is no danger of rubbing damage. Also, if I add a spacer to the front bolt, it will throw off the alignment of the bolt on the firewall. I'll need to investigate further.
Also, the NSX-R sway bar is contacting the radiator lower hose. I re-aligned the bar last fall, but it has apparently shifted left about 10-15mm. There is thankfully no damage to the hose or clamp, but I will raise the car and re-adjust. @Kaz-kzukNA1 is this normal for the NSX-R bar?
Intake Modification 2
Last fall, I modified the air induction system to increase (hopefully) the CFM of the intake tract. My idea was inspired by Honda's design for the NA2 and I hoped it could feed more air to my Comptech-powered 3.0L in the same way. I took the car to a Honda/Acura cars & coffee this morning and it was a good opportunity to do some logging. I'm pleased to report there was a result.
If we look at a log from last August, the stock intake system delivers a load factor of 74% at 5,952 RPM and WOT. This means with the throttle butterfly fully open, the most air the NSX can cram into the intake manifold is 74% of standard atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi), or 10.9 psi. The blue line is load, which is essentially manifold pressure on the NSX ECU. Green line is throttle position and orange line is RPM.
As the engine runs up to 8,000 RPM, the load falls to 71%, or 10.4 psi.
After modifying the intake, the car still makes 74% at max load- that's really just a function of our altitude here (6,000 ft).
But now, the pressure in the intake manifold falls to 72% (10.6 psi), an improvement of 1%. This result was repeated over and over in the log. I'm not sure how many horsepower 0.2 psi of "boost" equates to, but it's probably around 3-5 hp. Also nice is that since the slope of the line changed, the car is making more power across the powerband- not just at max RPM. In any event, it seems this mod, which cost me less than $50, was worthwhile. After all, on a NA NSX, every little hp counts!
Now, would this work for an otherwise stock NSX 3.0? I doubt it. My car has a modified exhaust tract, 36mm intake valves and high-lift camshafts. It's designed to move more air than a stock car. If you have a 3.2, it's worth considering though.
Last fall, I modified the air induction system to increase (hopefully) the CFM of the intake tract. My idea was inspired by Honda's design for the NA2 and I hoped it could feed more air to my Comptech-powered 3.0L in the same way. I took the car to a Honda/Acura cars & coffee this morning and it was a good opportunity to do some logging. I'm pleased to report there was a result.
If we look at a log from last August, the stock intake system delivers a load factor of 74% at 5,952 RPM and WOT. This means with the throttle butterfly fully open, the most air the NSX can cram into the intake manifold is 74% of standard atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi), or 10.9 psi. The blue line is load, which is essentially manifold pressure on the NSX ECU. Green line is throttle position and orange line is RPM.
As the engine runs up to 8,000 RPM, the load falls to 71%, or 10.4 psi.
After modifying the intake, the car still makes 74% at max load- that's really just a function of our altitude here (6,000 ft).
But now, the pressure in the intake manifold falls to 72% (10.6 psi), an improvement of 1%. This result was repeated over and over in the log. I'm not sure how many horsepower 0.2 psi of "boost" equates to, but it's probably around 3-5 hp. Also nice is that since the slope of the line changed, the car is making more power across the powerband- not just at max RPM. In any event, it seems this mod, which cost me less than $50, was worthwhile. After all, on a NA NSX, every little hp counts!
Now, would this work for an otherwise stock NSX 3.0? I doubt it. My car has a modified exhaust tract, 36mm intake valves and high-lift camshafts. It's designed to move more air than a stock car. If you have a 3.2, it's worth considering though.
Great reporting on the extensive work you've done to the car!
NSXPO Preparation
I haven't touched the car for nearly a month. I started a new job, so it's been almost 100% of focus on that. Still, with NSXPO fast approaching, it's time to start devoting some attention to getting the car ready. I had hoped for a caravan to run with on the 760-mile journey, but sadly it doesn't appear that anyone else is going.
A solo trip is more risky, but I should be able to manage.
First, I was planning to go through Kansas and Oklahoma since it is all Interstate. However, this trip will be at the end of October and I am on summer tires. The chance of a snow event on the plains is too much of a risk, so I will run south through New Mexico and Texas to hopefully keep the car in the warmer weather. This choice means I'll be on a divided state highway (US-287) most of the way. That means more wildlife danger and police. However, I should be able to make the drive in about 10 hours, so no stopover stay required.
With this new route in mind, I'll be spending the next few weeks on the following:
Sunset with the Imola paint.
The Endless MX72+ pads don't leave much residue and it washes off easily
The metallic paint really catches the sun in the right angles.
I haven't touched the car for nearly a month. I started a new job, so it's been almost 100% of focus on that. Still, with NSXPO fast approaching, it's time to start devoting some attention to getting the car ready. I had hoped for a caravan to run with on the 760-mile journey, but sadly it doesn't appear that anyone else is going.
A solo trip is more risky, but I should be able to manage. First, I was planning to go through Kansas and Oklahoma since it is all Interstate. However, this trip will be at the end of October and I am on summer tires. The chance of a snow event on the plains is too much of a risk, so I will run south through New Mexico and Texas to hopefully keep the car in the warmer weather. This choice means I'll be on a divided state highway (US-287) most of the way. That means more wildlife danger and police. However, I should be able to make the drive in about 10 hours, so no stopover stay required.
With this new route in mind, I'll be spending the next few weeks on the following:
- Address the "restoration leftovers" referenced earlier in the thread. Specifically, get that sway bar off of the lower coolant hose, clock the motor mounts in the proper order, and finally replace the factory bolts onto the oil pan shield under the car.
- Inspect the coolant level and all coolant hoses to make sure there are no leaks, plus burp all bleeders one more time to purge any remaining air that might have worked its way out in the past 12 months. There are long stretches of totally empty road on the route and we all know how temperamental the NSX cooling system can be.
- Rear O2 wire adjustments. The wire is still hanging too close to the rear header for my comfort, despite my bracket modification. I'll zip tie it to a nearby harness for peace of mind.
- Install ATR carbon side ducts. They are back from paint and fantastic. But, they need a little TLC in the form of installing the mesh screens. and mounting hardware.
- Inspect air filter and oil level.
- Paint and install the SoS radiator guard that @RYU graciously sent me.
- Install deer whistles. It's a long, open road...
- Get a radar detector. I was hoping a convoy would have one, but if it's just me, I'm going to need some protection. I'm old now and not a speed demon by any means (since I can afford track time lol), but I find that bored local cops often hit a nice car for 1 mph over the limit just because.
- Put together my travel pack. Car detail supplies, tools, etc.
- Test run on the highway just to make sure everything works.
Sunset with the Imola paint.
The Endless MX72+ pads don't leave much residue and it washes off easily
The metallic paint really catches the sun in the right angles.
Absolutely stunning my friend! 
- Joined
- 26 August 2021
- Messages
- 79
Car looks amazing! What are your thoughts on adding wheel spacers? Just curious, it looks nice to put the wheels slightly closer to the outside of the fender but understand there may be drawbacks. I believe some wheel spacers are hub centric and you don't need to redo the bolts?
Such a beautiful color
Excited for you and the xpo experience with a car you built! Funny how we are in the same boat workwise, I just changed teams, still on the pitch , but everything must change eventually. Would have loved to get there with the new bee but its just a few states too far this year.
Yeah, I went from in-house back to private practice. The news picked it up lol.
Dish Network Litigation Director Rejoins Jackson Lewis - Law360
Employment firm Jackson Lewis PC is welcoming back a litigator who most recently was director of litigation with Dish Network as a principal in its Denver office, the firm announced Thursday.
www.law360.com
I was really hoping you could make it with either Bee.
So on my NSX, the wheels have offsets to appear as if I was using spacers. On the fronts, they are +15mm and rears are +20mm. I had @MITA Motorsports make these wheels custom for me to get that nice flush look. I think it looks fantastic. The only issue with spacers is that you can cause rub with some wheel sizes. But I think the F+15mm and R +20mm is perfect on the 16/17 Type-S wheels.
For safety purposes, you should run hub bolts on any spacer larger than 5mm. H&R makes a really nice set if you want to go that way.
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Are you using spacers still? I thought the reason why we did your offset was so you do not need to use spacers anymore.
No- I meant to say that the wheels have a built in offset to look like they are on spacers. LOL I'll revise it to be more clear!
Wait a minute! @docjohn is not a doc but in fact a lawyer? Talk about playing for the other team! That seems like false advertising.
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