Window regulators upgrade

[Hugabuga]

Thank you Shawn(110975), you are far too kind, I am really glad it works:biggrin:

Today, I had the idea to "work" on the door plastic cover.
To have access to the regulator we need to remove this plastic cover, so I thought why not including it in this DO IT YOURSELF post:wink:

I am sure it is quite rare to find one in a good condition in a 20years old car, a mechanic won't have the patience to remove it without tearing it, and most probably yours are taped or simply missing.
They prevent moisture, wetting the speakers and switches, isolate sounds and smells...anyway, if they are there from new, they should still be there, and honestly, who does ever replace them??
They are quite expensive, and we would have to order and wait for it if they are not discontinued yet...so why not make one ourselves?

As I was lucky to have the passenger door plastic cover intact, I decided to SCAN it!! :biggrin:
It measures about 1170mm x 470mm (46" x 18.5" for USA...) so I would need a A0 paper size scanner of 1189mm x 841mm (46.8" in x 33.1" for USA)

As there is no such thing as an A0 glass scanner (at least easy to find), I had to use 6xA3 scans.

The guy was not too happy to do it, claming the plastic cover was going to dirty his scanner! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: Anyway he finally accepted and here is the result after joining the 6 scan in the same picture:

and after some photoshop editing to complete the parts the guy forgot to scan, I got this:

I made a mistake, measures are in CENTIMETERS, not MILLIMETERS
As it is 2:00am I do not have the courage to correct it now

Idea is to DO-IT-YOURSELF a copy of this cover if you need one, OEM is similar to a white/translucent umbrella fabric

As this is a scanner, there is no perspective errors of what we would get with a simple picture taken with a camera:wink:

If any of you is courageous enough to make an AUTOCAD drawing out of this pictures and post it, we could then simply have it printed in a A0 paper and cut a plastic with the same shape and same dimension in a 1:1 scale :biggrin:

This is the passenger side, driver side is symmetrical.

 

[kennyc]

haha! are you thinking about making this part of the kit as well?

 

[Honda3200]

wow this is all very valuable, thank you guys! i will need to replace my pass. side reg this summer. also thinking about reworking with te\hew new pulley system.

 

[Honcho]

Hugo-

I actually did this DIY. I used a sheet of 4 mil clear plastic (the kind you buy in a roll at Home Depot). I cut a rough rectangle that was bigger than the door and traced the outline of the adhesive on the clear plastic with a black marker. When I cut the plastic, I left about 5 cm extra material all around to cover any tracing errors. I marked all of the cables and wires and cut slits for them to poke through. I mounted the sheet using 3M heavy duty foam mounting tape. Total cost- about 5 dollars (since I already had the sheeting) for the tape and 2 hours of my time. The plastic has held up incredibly well since the repair.

Paul

 

[Hugabuga]

kennyc: no Cheng, I have no intentions to include the plastic cover in the "kit", this was just a tip for you to do-it-yourself:wink:
Use Paul's method instead as it seems much easier and faster than mine:biggrin:

Instructions will finally be released tomorrow! As they could be useful if you decided to build your own kit, I will also post them in this DIY section.

 

[Honcho]

Just for future reference in case someone does a search.

 

[shawn110975]

Honcho in your pic it shows your speaker how do you have it mounted? I mean is that a FREE-AIR speaker I mean the kind that doesnt need an enclosure? or is there something behind it? just curious, I want to go bigger but my only option is the SOS plastic cover that bolts on to the OEM bose enclosure? let me know It would help alot..

 

[angus]

SO - I would like to clarify, installing the pulley does not require dissasembly of the actual motor? And can be done in 1/2 hr.?

 

[UnhuZ]

^ to release the cable to install the pulley, you always have to open the motor, and while you are in there, you better use the provided sleeve, because if your motor's axle isn't worned out, it will be... it's just a question of time...

don't know about the timing as i didn't upgrade mine myself and won't, as Hugo will do it :wink:

 

[Honcho]

Honcho in your pic it shows your speaker how do you have it mounted? I mean is that a FREE-AIR speaker I mean the kind that doesnt need an enclosure? or is there something behind it? just curious, I want to go bigger but my only option is the SOS plastic cover that bolts on to the OEM bose enclosure? let me know It would help alot..

The install was done by a shop before I had the car. It is a particle board mounting "ring" which is glued to the door frame with some sort of hot glue and secured by two drywall screws (yes that's right- drywall screws). It is not very well constructed, but believe it or not sounds OK. I plan to re-do it the right way with the SOS speaker panels, but since my 2010 budget just got blown on short gears and headers, it will have to wait until the winter, when I will also do Hugo's window kits. :biggrin:

 

[Hugabuga]

Dear PrimeMembers,
After 2 weeks of shootings, I have finally released the WINDOW KIT INSTRUCTIONS movie :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSzUMkjHv5w

Music is from the Portuguese dj Rui da Silva, hope you like it!

Message is clear: if a 6 years old girl could do it, YOU can do it:wink:!
Have fun!
Hugo

 

[Racerxjling]

Dear PrimeMembers,
After 2 weeks of shootings, I have finally released the WINDOW KIT INSTRUCTIONS movie :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSzUMkjHv5w

Music is from the Portuguese dj Rui da Silva, hope you like it!

Message is clear: if a 6 years old girl could do it, YOU can do it:wink:!
Have fun!
Hugo

Wow, great video Hugo. Can't wait to get mine done.

Jeff

 

[shawn110975]

Are you kidding me that Video was awesome, and I love the child can do it Idea, then the hands of a child really doing the work, well thought out great video. great job

Hugo when you do something you do it with style.

def an Asset to NSXPrime.

 

[Honcho]

Thanks Hugo. I noticed that you did not re-pack the motor with grease. Is that intentional?

 

[Hugabuga]

Honcho: as the grease is not part of the kit, I did not include it in the movie but of course while you are at it you should re-grease all moving parts to complete the job:

-cable: multi-purpose grease
-regulator: white grease w/teflon
-motor gears: silicone grease

 

[lightguy]

Hugo;
My passenger side window dropped a week or so ago.
I figured it was the plastic connector that connects both cables to the regulator lever. It was. So I ordered the fix-it kit from Dali. Put it together with herculean force as the wires are as tight as piano strings and bend the aluminum frame like a bow. I also found, after assembly, the black rubber lower guides were missing and the broken bits laying in the bottom of the door frame.
I know there should not be this tension on the wires and am assuming the motor somehow wound up inducing more tension. Right ? (I DID push the operating button up and down several times after the window had fallen hoping for it to cure itself. No go.)

As long as I'm in here may as well put your kit on. I'll order in the vendor thread.
Here is my tip if the window falls; The forward nut of the lift arm cannot be gotten to with the window jammed down. Tried to lift the window and it wouldn't budge. So I drilled a 3/4 inch hole with a hole saw bit in the inner aluminum panel to get to that nut and then a 10MM socket on an extension can get it with a straight shot.
I would also suggest putting the aluminum window fix it thingies in if the whole mess is apart anyhow.

 

[Hugabuga]

lightguy: you probably jammed the core cables inside the motor, so I would advise you to first open the motor prior to order thingies or a pulley kit.
I do have a spare cable, so if you are lucky this is just what you need to solve your problem:biggrin:

 

[lightguy]

lightguy: you probably jammed the core cables inside the motor, so I would advise you to first open the motor prior to order thingies or a pulley kit.
I do have a spare cable, so if you are lucky this is just what you need to solve your problem:biggrin:

Too late !
I already have the thingies (and they were needed to replace the broken plastic one) and just Paypaled you for the pulley. Thats OK; Am going to do the pulley anyhow.

I removed the spring cover, and two plastic gears with the black plastic drive spyder. The cables do look wound over each other but I cant budge the last white plastic pulley with the cable end out of the housing. The cable tension is still bow tight.
Any tips ?

 

[Hugabuga]

Without the teeth wheel and with a broken plastic thingy you should be able to lower the regulator lever! if not, then the lever is probably jammed or broken, try to raise it before lowering it. Have you split the 2 parts of the core inside the motor case? (under the black drive spider)

 

[shawn110975]

here is something I would like to add to this DIY thread, while I was doing my HugaBuga upgrade I noticed that the channels
in the main gear where the wires connect to after you put tention on the lines. well mine were kinda bad, like worn and not very deep.

I also have other hondas, so I took the driver side window regulator out of my other honda a 1993 Accord,
well the gears in the motor were exactly the same, I held them side by side and were in better shape than my NSX
ones so I used the accord gears in place of my NSX ones,

only a few differences like the window frame, and it had the 180 degree turn just like the NSX, there was no pre tentioner spring,
it was just missing, the 6 prong rubber thingy in the motor was thicker, my NSX one was thinner compared,

the rest of the motor was the same, I was shocked. so if you ever break something on your NSX window motor, you can go to the junk yard and get the broken pieces from a 1993 Accord for parts, for probably 19 bucks
the main electic motor shaft was different though not as meaty, the NSX one had an upper connections and a lower connections the Accord only had the lower portion of copper.

 

[Hugabuga]

That is very interesting shawn, if you compare the weight of the Accord and the NSX window it is obvious that the gears shouldn't have been of the same dimension. A pre-tensioner spring is not the solution, it only dissimulates the problem.
Larger gear/teeth wheel and a faster motor would have been much better, to increase its torque in the same proportion as the glass weight difference.

 

[lightguy]

Without the teeth wheel and with a broken plastic thingy you should be able to lower the regulator lever! if not, then the lever is probably jammed or broken, try to raise it before lowering it. Have you split the 2 parts of the core inside the motor case? (under the black drive spider)

I installed the aluminum thingie fix using the modified channel locks as describer in the Dali DIY instructions. I had two people help hold the frame down and to push the cable end into the thingie while I manhandled the channel locks. Looking back with 20/20 I should have disassembled the gear drive assembly but did not know how at that time.
I need to split this 2 part core to untession the wires but it will not budge and am afraid of busting the top white plastic gear or teeth. I have concluded the wires are bound up inside this spool. The other option is to destroy the 180 degree plastic block at the end of the frame to untension the wires since your kit replaces it with a pulley.

 

[shawn110975]

yeah , the Accord didnt have the pre-tentioner like the NSX did. but the gear and teeth are exactly the same.

 

[Hugabuga]

lightguy: yes you can destroy the white plastic guide
To split the 2 part of the core the lever must be in the lower position, as this is when the lower core part as minimal upper wire in it.

 

[ChopsJazz]

Hugo, the info below is CRUCIAL!
I had to go back and redo my motor twice before I figured out what the problem was.
Now it's great though! :biggrin:
Thanks for a great effort making this project happen.

ChopsJazz: make sure the short cable goes into the last groove of the lower core part when you join the 2 core parts, this is quite tricky as you won't notice it's not in place!
I found it to be easier with a fixing tool (like the red one from the movie) because it also helps to pull the lower core part and not just fix it.