Unofficial weight reduction thread
- Thread starter nsxsupra
- Start date
Just wanted to post an update here as I've received the NSX R upper and lower chassis bars as well as the front sway bar from SOS. These are the OEM pieces from Honda and here are their weights.
NSX R Upper and Lower Chassis Bars weigh 2 lbs when you add them together.
NSX R Front Sway Bar weighs 5 lbs. When I remove the factory one I'll weigh it for comparison.
Only 5 lbs? Is is hollow? I would have thought it would weigh more.
Want to do an update on the ETX-14 Deka Battery since 10 months ago:
- I would leave the car alone for five days, starts right up on the weekends every time without using battery tender
- Accidentally left headlights on for 10 minutes, but car still started.
- Accidentally left headlights on for an hour, key-less entry works but car did not start.
- Left radio on all night with key in first position, car did not start next morning.
Conclusion: As long as you do not leave anything on when car is not running, this is a great battery.
Can you post a pic of how you mounted it?
It's kind of funny but last night I had a dream. I totally gutted my NSX of it's intererior, AC, radio, etc. Painted the cockpit of the car black and changed all the glass to lexan. In the dream I was trying to figure out how's the best way to lighten the car but still not have that racecar look to it. This is the first dream I've had about modding my NSX, so it seems like subconsciously I would prefer to lighten the car over anything else hehe.
I deleted my post because I ended up looking in the wrong area and quoted incorrect pricing. Yes, those batteries are super expensive.i took a look and the 9lb one that isn't "competition only" costs $1850
This appears to be just slightly thicker than the Buddy Club and Oddysey 680 battery but at half the price.
Is anyone running this? I'm curious to know if it'll fit the Dali Battery bracket for the 680. I believe it will based on my rough measurements.
ETX-16L
http://www.tristatebattery.com/etx16l-deka-powersport-battery-p-979.html
Is anyone running this? I'm curious to know if it'll fit the Dali Battery bracket for the 680. I believe it will based on my rough measurements.
ETX-16L
http://www.tristatebattery.com/etx16l-deka-powersport-battery-p-979.html
justweighted mine: 1280kg (2819lbs) with full gasoline.
PULLED OUT:
AC with lines, vents, etc...
Fog lights
Radio with soundsystem
bracket and metall shield for Subwoofer
CD & Antenna cable
Antenna
engine cover
tools
tow hook 2x rear
tow hook 1x front
sound deadening stuff behind the seats
controll unit for whipper arm pressure
van for engine bay
cruise control motor
cruise control controll unit
Airbag with sensors, ECU & wire harness
ADDED or CHANGED to something "better":
Momo Tuner whhel
SoS steering hub
Dali CF Stereo delete plate
KW V. 3 coilovers
NSX-R stabilizer
NSX-R Chassie Bars
Oem NA2 (1997+) Brakes
Stahlflex Bremsleitungen
OZ Ultraleggera 8x17 48mm front
OZ Ultraleggera 9x18 55mm rear
hub distance 20mm rear
Taitec headers
Taitec light weight exhaust
Race cats
Procar Carbon Airbox
Procar Carbon intake scoope
JUN flywheel
SoS coolant tank
VDO keyless entry
Rubber for antenna hole
LMAs
Alu thingys for window cable
Oem Honda NSX 2002+ rear valance
NEXT STEPS:
rear & front bumper metall beam changing into alu beam
switching to lighter JDM rims 17/17 combo
getting rid of the 20mm hub spacer
target: 1260kg (2775lbs)
PULLED OUT:
AC with lines, vents, etc...
Fog lights
Radio with soundsystem
bracket and metall shield for Subwoofer
CD & Antenna cable
Antenna
engine cover
tools
tow hook 2x rear
tow hook 1x front
sound deadening stuff behind the seats
controll unit for whipper arm pressure
van for engine bay
cruise control motor
cruise control controll unit
Airbag with sensors, ECU & wire harness
ADDED or CHANGED to something "better":
Momo Tuner whhel
SoS steering hub
Dali CF Stereo delete plate
KW V. 3 coilovers
NSX-R stabilizer
NSX-R Chassie Bars
Oem NA2 (1997+) Brakes
Stahlflex Bremsleitungen
OZ Ultraleggera 8x17 48mm front
OZ Ultraleggera 9x18 55mm rear
hub distance 20mm rear
Taitec headers
Taitec light weight exhaust
Race cats
Procar Carbon Airbox
Procar Carbon intake scoope
JUN flywheel
SoS coolant tank
VDO keyless entry
Rubber for antenna hole
LMAs
Alu thingys for window cable
Oem Honda NSX 2002+ rear valance
NEXT STEPS:
rear & front bumper metall beam changing into alu beam
switching to lighter JDM rims 17/17 combo
getting rid of the 20mm hub spacer
target: 1260kg (2775lbs)
15 lbs. lighter and it didn't cost me any money and I didn't have to remove anything from the car. 
Started eating more salads instead of burgers/fries and exercising. Grocery bills have actually gone down since I don't buy soda and other junk food anymore.
End result is the same, car has less weight to move.
Started eating more salads instead of burgers/fries and exercising. Grocery bills have actually gone down since I don't buy soda and other junk food anymore.
End result is the same, car has less weight to move.
Just got my ext20 today, now my car starts again yay so far its ghetto mounted with zip ties and a bungy cord.
btw... after some research the 16L will not seem to fit in the Dali bracket.
I went with the Oddysey 680 because with the CTSC fuel pump demands I need the biggest CCA in the smallest package. Short of going LithIon, the Oddysey is still the best out there. If you're NA (stock'ish) the Deka should be sufficient.
I'm trying to remove the windshield wiper motor right now. I got the windshield cowl and cover off (finally).
I removed the two (10 mm) bolts of the assembly near the center of the car; I've got the 10 mm bolt in the middle of the assembly loose.
The service manual shows 2 more bolts and a nut - the orientation of the picture suggest that you have to approach from underneath the car to remove these bolts/nut? Is that right?
I removed the two (10 mm) bolts of the assembly near the center of the car; I've got the 10 mm bolt in the middle of the assembly loose.
The service manual shows 2 more bolts and a nut - the orientation of the picture suggest that you have to approach from underneath the car to remove these bolts/nut? Is that right?
Installed: STMPO Rear AL Bumper Beam
Removed: OEM Rear Bumper Beam
Weight saving: 14.9lb
Installed: Jun Flywheel
Removed: OEM Flywheel
Weight Saving: 6.2lb
Total saving a whopping 21.1lb !! Cost about 50 dollars for a pound saving Along with these, Installed OEM Clutch, Type R Final Drive, Type R Short Gears 5 speed.
It is a world difference now with new clutch, flywheel, short gears and final drive.
Hugo
Removed: OEM Rear Bumper Beam
Weight saving: 14.9lb
Installed: Jun Flywheel
Removed: OEM Flywheel
Weight Saving: 6.2lb
Total saving a whopping 21.1lb !! Cost about 50 dollars for a pound saving Along with these, Installed OEM Clutch, Type R Final Drive, Type R Short Gears 5 speed.
It is a world difference now with new clutch, flywheel, short gears and final drive.
Hugo
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I removed mine a while ago and do not recall removing it from underneath the car. I was able to remove all the bolts without much hassle from up top.
The SOS cover weighs just a hair over 2 lbs.
15 lbs. lighter and it didn't cost me any money and I didn't have to remove anything from the car.
Started eating more salads instead of burgers/fries and exercising. Grocery bills have actually gone down since I don't buy soda and other junk food anymore.
End result is the same, car has less weight to move.
Well done!
I work in the cycling world and it always gets me a little when ppl are spending big money to loose a few grams off of parts when the reality is they could easily stand to loose 10lbs off of their own frame.
Dont know if you ever got a response on this but I measured the NA1 manifold, exhaust and shields at 28lbs, the NA2 Headers and shields were 25lbs. Don't know what the cats weigh.
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Update: I'm updating this as an FYI for anyone else who might do this, as I couldn't find a clear answer.
The 3rd (middle) nut is the last nut that needs to be removed in order to remove the entire assembly. The image in the service manual that confused me is apparently for those who are actually going to disassemble the wiper motor itself (so simply disregard!).
The 3rd (middle) nut is the last nut that needs to be removed in order to remove the entire assembly. The image in the service manual that confused me is apparently for those who are actually going to disassemble the wiper motor itself (so simply disregard!).
Anyone ever heard about this type of battery:
http://www.voltphreaks.com/products_street.php
LITHIUM IRON battery - even an VPH900 would mean 28 lbs saving vs OEM battery - This is huge weight saving over lead/acid battery! but Pricey as hell too 
:biggrin:!
http://www.voltphreaks.com/products_street.php
LITHIUM IRON battery - even an VPH900 would mean 28 lbs saving vs OEM battery - This is huge weight saving over lead/acid battery!
but Pricey as hell too :biggrin:!
.... impressive, almost one third the weight of equivalent Odyssey SLA lightweight battery.
But Lithium-Iron? It does say that in their text, surely they mean Lithium-Ion...
I reckon the LPH750 would do for NSX, and only $999
But Lithium-Iron? It does say that in their text, surely they mean Lithium-Ion...
I reckon the LPH750 would do for NSX, and only $999
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they really are Lithium IRON battery's.......I use Shorai battery's in my bikes, they are unbelievably light and seem to live up to the claims........I'm guessing two of the larger motorcycle batteries wired in tandem would work pretty well, even two of them would likely be about the half the weight of the lightweight Braille in my NSX
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