So far... more to come

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Vancehu said:
Don't worry, I"m not arguing, I'm explaining the two different systems. I removed the downforce scope and replaced with the ring from the Mugen AIS. As indicated by Peter, the Downforce AS draws in lots of dirt, I verified it with my Comptech Unifilter. After only 6000 miles, my filter was dirty beyond believe. Also, Peter mentioned to me that the Scope is not for performance gain, but rather a sound improvement. The NA engine draws the neccessary amount of air in, the scope will not help

Hmmm so does this mean that the Cantrell scoop hp claims were bs? If they are will any intake actually have any hp benefits with the NSX? Also if downforce does replicate will they make it so that it connects to the scoop? Sorry for all the questions:smile:
 
WingZ said:
Hmmm so does this mean that the Cantrell scoop hp claims were bs? If they are will any intake actually have any hp benefits with the NSX? Also if downforce does replicate will they make it so that it connects to the scoop? Sorry for all the questions:smile:

Whether DF will replicate this AIS is still in the air. It's up to them to decide. As for the air scope, no, I don't think there are any HP gain. Because the NSX in stock mode is already well designed. You can't force air into NA engines, the engine can only take as much as it will accept, and the air will draw in as much as as it needs, providing that the intake has no restriction. However, that can change if you change the header, exhaust, whether if AIS will do any thing is really depend on the bore size of the header/exhaust. PM me if you have additional question.
 
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rickysals said:
Please don't sell it the second you finish it like Ryan did... I felt bad for the guy, both losing all that money put into the car, and I assumed he'd live with the car for a while. I'm sure he made the right decision for himself, he seems to be financially secure enough to do whatever he wants to do.

But if you DO sell you car wait like 3-4 years... then PM me :p

Coming along nicely!

question about the NSX-R suspension... can anyone buy it? or is it one of a few kits that are out there by Honda that are insanely tough to get your hands on?


We can both bid on it in a couple of years ....lol
 
Vancehu said:
Not really a smart move for me. I had to exercise a skip pay on my mortgage payment this month... To pay for my property tax!!!
California Property Tax... Sux I can only sell so many cigars and Hookahs to pay for this "Honda."

Here is the approximate spending. Including parts, labor, shippping, Custom Duty, and paint job

JDM OEM Parts
NSX-R NA1 Recaro Carbon Kevlar Seats $8000
NSX-R Seat Belt Buckles $50
NSX-R Power Seat Rails $2000
NSX-R NA2 Momo Steering wheel with Momo Hub $1000
NSX-R NA2 Suspension $4000
NSX-R BBS Light Weight Championship White Wheels $4000
NSX-R Mesh Engine Cover with Support Beam $1400
NSX-R Shift Knob and Boot $320
NSX-R “H” Hood/Rear Badges $140
NSX-R Door Sills $270
NSX-R Front Flat Under Cover Aero upgrade $350
NSX-R Rotors $800
NSX-R Front & Lower Chassis Bars $400
NSX-R Front Sway Bar $200
NSX-S Rear Sway Bar $200
Mugen Steel Brake Lines $400
NSX “Honda” Cassette Player Door $20

NSX-R Replicated Parts
NSX-R CF Hood Replica $2000
NSX-R CF Rear Spoiler $1200
NSX-R Rear Diffuser $800
NSX-R Gauge Replica Set (MPH) $800

JDM Aftermarket Parts
Procar CF Rear Window Garnish $1200
Mugen Air Intake System $1770
Dali Coolant Tank $200
GT-One v.2 Titanium Super flow Exhaust $2800
Fujitsubo NSX NA1 Header $3200
Test Pipes $200

Total: $37700 USD

Recovered from selling my OEM parts
Hood $800
Wheels $1800
T Cover $300
Zanardi Shift Knob & Boot $250
Coolant Bottle $50
-$3200


Incoming:
JDM Type R gauge $3300
JDM style front Fender side markers and Championship White headlights. $1200


Projected spending at the very end of my project... $40k

Hi Vance looking great!! Did you get any discounts from any of the vendors or installers?
 
Vancehu said:
The trick is to find the Mugen Con filter in mass quantaty.:wink:
If its made by K&N it sould'nt be a problem. They sell replacement filters for all their intakes in their on-line store.

They even have replacement filters for the NSX special cleaner.
Good to know if someone would want to replicate it.
*cough* Downforce *cough* :wink:

Linkey
 
Vancehu said:
As for the air scope, no, I don't think there are any HP gain. Because the NSX in stock mode is already well designed. You can't force air into NA engines, the engine can only take as much as it will accept, and the air will draw in as much as as it needs, providing that the intake has no restriction. However, that can change if you change the header, exhaust, whether if AIS will do any thing is really depend on the bore size of the header/exhaust.

I believe that NA engines will do as Vance says, which is to draw the air they need. By way of confirmation for the above, I ran my 3.2 with a only the new exhaust for 6 months with what felt like minimal performance gains (but good soundtrack). I have recently installed the Procar fender scoop and the CF box and Apexi filter and the car is transformed. De-restricting the amount of air available, the NSX now breaths freely, revs smoother and quicker.

Does the scoop add any of the sometimes wild hp claimed? I dont know. However, combined with the exhaust I'm now pushing 289bhp and having the best drive of my life:smile:

Vance, clean and classy NSX-R rep and great attention to detail :cool:

regards
 
With regard to the downforce scoop... I think the 'performance gain' mentioned is when you install it in combination with the Unifilter element - the unifilter element flows better than a paper air filter, so a slight gain may be seen on a dyno - the air scoop is another matter... consider this: you're a Honda engineer, tasked with designing the intake system of the nsx - you build the airbox, and now need a way to get cold air into this box - how easy would it be to bang out something like the cantrell/downforce scoop? It would be very easy, but instead you come up with something that curves, kinks, etc. - there must be a reason why you designed this piece, called the 'resonator' - this thread here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72226&highlight=resonance

raises some interesting possibilities; could it be, that when working with the factory airbox, the resonator creates a resonance effect, pulling in more air than a simple scoop might? Sure the scoop might assist in creating a 'sucking noise', but you lose the benefit of air resonance. The counter argument I hear regarding this piece is that it's derived from a race part, the 'lemans air scoop' - consider this: if this is a race part that car most-likely wasn't using a factory airbox, and was probably being fed by ITB's, mounted on the top of the engine and fed by some sort of hatch duct - in which case this scoop's purpose would have been cooling, perhaps it was even used as a brake duct - it wasn't being used for engine air.
 
With regard to the Mugen AIS, as has been mentioned, this system avoids the potential for 'hot air' several other systems experience, but I would still be concerned about the lack of a resonator; it's cold air, which is the benefit of the stock airbox, but the mugen duct might make the cone just as dirty as the downforce piece made the unifilter, and any high rpm resonance benefit would be lost, as you have still replaced the resonator with a different type of duct. It's superior to a downforce/cantrell duct and intake system, but is it superior to a OEM airbox, OEM resonator, and high flow unifilter? It would be interesting to dyno both setups head to head, to find out which results in more power.

The hatch duct system would be even more interesting (although perhaps cost prohibitive), as the hatch area would act as a sort of air chamber, perhaps allowing for a greater supply of available cold air, with less dirt getting to the filter, and instead being trapped between the hatch/engine cover. Still, I would expect only minimal gains from any kind of higher flow air filter, the important point is getting cold air, then making sure your filter doesn't become overly dirty in a short span of time, then perhaps any kind of resonanace effect.
 
DDankew said:
Hi Vance looking great!! Did you get any discounts from any of the vendors or installers?

I received price breaks on few items, when I negotiated the price. Most of the items I had to pay more than asking price, simply because of the fees for International Money wiring, brokerage fees for clearing customs, and expensive air shipping.

RacingHeart said:
If its made by K&N it sould'nt be a problem. They sell replacement filters for all their intakes in their on-line store.

They even have replacement filters for the NSX special cleaner.
Good to know if someone would want to replicate it.
*cough* Downforce *cough* :wink:

Linkey
There is a slight difference in the filter you mentioned. But I think it will fit because of the same measurement in diameter. I have an idea of where to get this Mugen filter, it is the price I’m concern with.

Senninha said:
Vance, clean and classy NSX-R rep and great attention to detail :cool:
Thank you

scorp965 said:
With regard to the Mugen AIS, as has been mentioned, this system avoids the potential for 'hot air' several other systems experience, but I would still be concerned about the lack of a resonator; it's cold air, which is the benefit of the stock airbox, but the mugen duct might make the cone just as dirty as the downforce piece made the unifilter, and any high rpm resonance benefit would be lost, as you have still replaced the resonator with a different type of duct. It's superior to a downforce/cantrell duct and intake system, but is it superior to a OEM airbox, OEM resonator, and high flow unifilter? It would be interesting to dyno both setups head to head, to find out which results in more power.

The hatch duct system would be even more interesting (although perhaps cost prohibitive), as the hatch area would act as a sort of air chamber, perhaps allowing for a greater supply of available cold air, with less dirt getting to the filter, and instead being trapped between the hatch/engine cover. Still, I would expect only minimal gains from any kind of higher flow air filter, the important point is getting cold air, then making sure your filter doesn't become overly dirty in a short span of time, then perhaps any kind of resonanace effect.

If you look at the picture on the previous page, you will see a ring. That is now in place of the DF scoop. The ring is just an opening; therefore, you can’t force the air into the AIS like the DF scoop. If the filter will be dirty fast, I’ll find out in six months…

The truth is, I have no idea if this will create any power gain, BUT I believe the Mugen system is good for what I have in terms of 60mm header. When I had stock AIS, I had some issues at lower RPM during normal driving; the problem disappears during full throttle. I have concluded at low speed, there is a deficiency in the stock AIS when using with my Fujitsubo header.

As for the Mugen Hatch air duct, I think it will be good if I got the GruppeM AIS, or ITB. Because it will force cold air from above and push it into the engine compartment, which will push out the hot air. After learning the Mugen Basic AIS is not exposed, I didn’t think open duct hatch was necessary for my set up, that is why I sold my snorkel.
 
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After six months of waiting and $4 grand deeper in debt... they arrived today... I have always wondered if this is worth the price, since I do own the replica set in MPH..... Yeah, it is worth the FOUR HUNDRED THOUSAND PENNIES.... Now I will need the Type R ECU to make the shift lights to work.:smile:

I have always thought it was just some plug and play modules... Now I have to figure out if I want my odometer in KPH...

Other than the hood, rear diffuser, and spoiler, everything on my car are JDM NSX-R Parts.

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Vancehu said:
After six months of waiting and $4 grand deeper in debt... they arrived today... I have always wondered if this is worth the price, since I do own the replica set in MPH..... Yeah, it is worth the FOUR HUNDRED THOUSAND PENNIES.... Now I will need the Type R ECU to make the shift lights to work.:smile:

I have always thought it was just some plug and play modules... Now I have to figure out if I want my odometer in KPH...

Other than the hood, rear diffuser, and spoiler, everything on my car are JDM NSX-R Parts.

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I guess there is a Santa after all... :biggrin:
 
Vancehu said:
Now I will need the Type R ECU to make the shift lights to work.:smile:

I have always thought it was just some plug and play modules... Now I have to figure out if I want my odometer in KPH...

Hey Vance,

I'm sure I can make it work on my Motec:biggrin:

Shit, now my gauges will never be so cool... We're not worthy, we're not worthy...

Congrats brotha,

Danny
 
Haha, you guys are too kind...

Erick was nice enough to spend some quality none-gayish time with me. He helped me installed the gauge, or I should say, I help him installed my gauge set. With a little tweak, we kept the TCS, EPS, SRS lights. I lost the Cruise control indicator, but it still works.

It is absolutely beautiful, pictures just don't tell the whole story. You have to see it in person to appreciate it.

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Wow :eek:

Looks so good Vance .... clearly worth the wait!

Looking forward to doing my own 'replica' upgrade when the postman arrives.

Regards

Paul
 
And now he only has 30.2 miles on the car! :biggrin:
 
Vancehu said:
Haha, you guys are too kind...

Erick was nice enough to spend some quality none-gayish time with me. He helped me installed the gauge, or I should say, I help him installed my gauge set. With a little tweak, we kept the TCS, EPS, SRS lights. I lost the Cruise control indicator, but it still works.

It is absolutely beautiful, pictures just don't tell the whole story. You have to see it in person to appreciate it.
Sooooooooooo nice...........is everything plug and play??
 
EK4 hatchback said:
Sooooooooooo nice...........is everything plug and play??

Are you guys running on KPH or MPH in Hong Kong? If MPH, you need to replace every part in the clutster set. There are three different sweeping ratios. 180 KPH, 300 KPH, and 180 MPH. The circuit board in the back dictate that along with the odometer.
 
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