Semi-DIY Mild Engine Build for FI
- Thread starter Mac Attack
- Start date
i just dropped off my DA inter-cooler to have the edge ceramic coated to help keep the engine block and SOS SC heat from conducting to the DA IC.
Also doing both my NSX and GTO metal oil caps so that I'm less likely to burn my hand when having to touch the oil cap.
The other stuff is blower for my 4.3 liter truck that will make more power than a stock NSX *snicker*.
Also doing both my NSX and GTO metal oil caps so that I'm less likely to burn my hand when having to touch the oil cap.
The other stuff is blower for my 4.3 liter truck that will make more power than a stock NSX *snicker*.
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i should probably do that....
Yeah man. Get your own thread. You're going too fast and your parts are way nicer :tongue:
Well, finally got my inboard axles separated with the help of this thread:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35795
It was kinda a PITA by myself. So much so that I will at least buy two boot kits and rebuild them (they were redone just six years ago). Still contemplating whether or not to do the DA axle upgrade, but that's ~$800 :frown:
The engine/transmission are out of the cradle and hopefully I can get the transmission separated tonight. I know, pretty slow progress but I've been busy with my twin turbo arrangement, custom headers, custom intake manifolds, new radiator, and rebuilding the steering rack. Then custom lights, driving lights, brake ducts, radiator ducting, and some CF goodies....
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35795
It was kinda a PITA by myself. So much so that I will at least buy two boot kits and rebuild them (they were redone just six years ago). Still contemplating whether or not to do the DA axle upgrade, but that's ~$800 :frown:
The engine/transmission are out of the cradle and hopefully I can get the transmission separated tonight. I know, pretty slow progress but I've been busy with my twin turbo arrangement, custom headers, custom intake manifolds, new radiator, and rebuilding the steering rack. Then custom lights, driving lights, brake ducts, radiator ducting, and some CF goodies....
Now I'm doing a kitchen remodel 
but I was able to get a little NSX work in.
If you drop the engine/transmission/suspension cradle, you really need another dolly to hold the engine and transmission after you separate them from the suspension cradle:
Otherwise, it's really a pain to try and separate the transmission from the engine. They both need to be elevated so you can continue removing bolts and stuff. Then you can support the transmission with a jack as you separate them.
This is my engine stand on dollys. It's big enough so it's stable, but not too big where it hurts getting access to all the things I need to below the heads. It takes a little thought so you can safely support the engine, but I think it will be well worth it when I go to bolt the transmission back to the engine.
That's it for this weekend. Note the last major hurdle on engine disassembly is the #$%*&^ dampener bolt. 1" electrical conduit cheater bar just bent when I applied torque to my 1/2" breaker bar. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster the past two weeks in anticipation of this but it hasn't seemed to help. Tomorrow I'll fire up the air compressor and hope my cheapy 1/2" impact will work. I've got a 6pt 19mm impact socket on there now. No need for an energy-absorbing extension or jackstant support since I'm right up against the pulley.
This is a good thread to read if you're having issues with your crankshaft pulley bolt:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84751
Looks like I'll try to use my jack handle as a cheater bar first before I end up buying a 600ft-lb impact gun....
but I was able to get a little NSX work in.If you drop the engine/transmission/suspension cradle, you really need another dolly to hold the engine and transmission after you separate them from the suspension cradle:
Otherwise, it's really a pain to try and separate the transmission from the engine. They both need to be elevated so you can continue removing bolts and stuff. Then you can support the transmission with a jack as you separate them.
This is my engine stand on dollys. It's big enough so it's stable, but not too big where it hurts getting access to all the things I need to below the heads. It takes a little thought so you can safely support the engine, but I think it will be well worth it when I go to bolt the transmission back to the engine.
That's it for this weekend. Note the last major hurdle on engine disassembly is the #$%*&^ dampener bolt. 1" electrical conduit cheater bar just bent when I applied torque to my 1/2" breaker bar. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster the past two weeks in anticipation of this but it hasn't seemed to help. Tomorrow I'll fire up the air compressor and hope my cheapy 1/2" impact will work. I've got a 6pt 19mm impact socket on there now. No need for an energy-absorbing extension or jackstant support since I'm right up against the pulley.
This is a good thread to read if you're having issues with your crankshaft pulley bolt:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84751
Looks like I'll try to use my jack handle as a cheater bar first before I end up buying a 600ft-lb impact gun....
Prime is pretty damn boring now a days with nothing really "new", and I won't even touch when the last time a vendor actually offered an interesting product...
But thread is awesome!
But thread is awesome!
Ill bring a 6ft galvanized pipe post over for you!:biggrin:
Thanks. I'm just going so slow!
Chris - You left the message Friday on my work phone. That's why I didn't get it until now. Thanks for the offer. I'll give you a call if my jack handle doesn't work this evening when I get home. It's a heavy gauge steel one so it shouldn't bend
Jeez, a new 550ft-lb 1/2" well-reviewed HF Earthquake didn't budge the bolt 
: This is with a 25 gallon air compressor supplying the impact wrench at rated flow and slightly higher air pressure.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html
I've got my jack handle as a cheater bar on the crank pulley tool wedging it against the floor. Guess I'll try to find a schedule 80 pipe or something. Chris - is it too much trouble to bring that pipe post over please?
I'll browse Lowe's tomorrow for ideas.
: This is with a 25 gallon air compressor supplying the impact wrench at rated flow and slightly higher air pressure.http://www.harborfreight.com/12-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html
I've got my jack handle as a cheater bar on the crank pulley tool wedging it against the floor. Guess I'll try to find a schedule 80 pipe or something. Chris - is it too much trouble to bring that pipe post over please?
I'll browse Lowe's tomorrow for ideas.
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NVM just saw your update, is the crank moving at all when you try to loosen the bolt? How long is your cheater bar?
This long?
This long?
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craigslist = 3/4 inch impact driver - 75.00 bucks
single crank pulley socket - 40.00 bucks
outcome - 6 hours of life preserved
single crank pulley socket - 40.00 bucks
outcome - 6 hours of life preserved
Yeah Ill try to find one and run it by tomorrow. Im sure you can find one at lowes for pretty cheap as well
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I couldnt agree more... Dave.. there is a known problem with one of the parts listed in your first post.. as nsxnuts wife would say if she was here during this post... "you only get to do this once"
what the sos website fails to mention is reducing compression is essentially just like reducing volume... call it a 2.8 liter now????
safer.. correct.. contradicting the 3.5l upgrade - you bet it does
Dave... reason number 4 - move it to the top of the list.. and them add all the other reason together.. multiple it by 7.. and this reason is still more important than the other 3
There made out of f@%king titanium... one of the rarest and the best rods found in any car every offered from any factory... as soon as you remove it... your have a 3.2tl motor
ima go out on a limb here - sos website - probably mentions that they recommend steel rods above xxxhp
reality - Honda is the only company with 1) enough money to have them made out of Ti... 2) has the ability to accomplish it further justifying its sticker price.. while holding their middle finger in the air at Ferrari and lambo saying... what bitchz
Ferrari fires back in 1994 -
http://www.autobahnpower.com/products.asp?recnumber=527
Another Ferrari first on the 355 was titanium connecting rods previously used only in Formula 1 engines
correction to the article.. only used in formula one cars and the NSX offered to the public 5 years before this car was created
lets go back to what sos recommends.... and correct their statement
sos recommends you take the formula one rods (or ferrari 355 and later) out of your motor and replace them with rods just like a small block chevy.. we also recommend you put a bigger crank in to increase liters while lowering the compression ratio during this expensive rod down grade from formula one to chevy small block
Thanks!
I'll do a K20 swap
That's one thing SOS doesn't mention when selling the main caps. The slightest imbalance puts additional stresses on the crank and mains. Maybe the few cars that have had problems had out-of-balance rotating assemblies (clutch, flywheel, crank, pistons, etc), and they failed after repeated use on the track
Dave
Dave, im not sure im reading this correctly.. a K20 is a 2.0l 4 cylinder motor. What type of retarded idiot would take a v6 out and replace it with 4 banger
just downgrade your rods and call it a day man...
vibration from imbalance... I’m not sure of any other problem that could break a main cap... that’s weird
you sure the sos website doesn’t state that fact you just mentioned
Jeez, a new 550ft-lb 1/2" well-reviewed HF Earthquake didn't budge the bolt
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html
I'll browse Lowe's tomorrow for ideas.
ok Dave.. here is advice u have to take... now the gsrboy pic.. is funny.. looks like they struggled and succeeded.. probably did a high five when they saw it break loose...
do not get an impact at loews dude.. try not to buy any tools there.. but definitely not an impact.
there is a big difference in quality of impact guns. and the 3/4" driver on an impact gun.. there should be one on craiglist in any town in America.. kind of of an over kill tool.. not really needed for too many things.
plug your 25 tank up to it.. walk up to the motor holding it out with both hands because its to heavy to hold with one... have someone holding a stop watch and time it... then have someone take a picture of the look on your face after you remove that nut in 4.3 seconds on the first attempt
start a thread called... crank pulley removal picture comparisons.. post your and gsrboys pics.. im not sure if it will be the official or unofficial thread.. maybe the sos website recommends something there.. it always confused me with who is officially unofficial
btw - dont matter if that impact was made in 1945.. if it says made in america.. its the one you want.. and it will work.. and it will provide you with a successful picture for your next thread
Thanks for the ideas guys.
One thing I haven't exercised yet is my access to work tools. I'm going to borrow a 3/4" or 1" American-made impact wrenchwink, buy a 6pt 19mm impact socket to fit, and make it work tonight :biggrin:
It's just that I had heard good things about the 1/2" HF one from my car-enthusiast-friends, and had to add it to my collection since it was only $70. Well, it's going back to HF tonight!
Ross:
Thanks for the concern on the CR, but I'd like to keep my 10.2:1 for "just" 450WHP. Of course, this will be running meth, which is highly effective.
Also, I am keeping my stock rods!
One thing I haven't exercised yet is my access to work tools. I'm going to borrow a 3/4" or 1" American-made impact wrench
wink, buy a 6pt 19mm impact socket to fit, and make it work tonight :biggrin:It's just that I had heard good things about the 1/2" HF one from my car-enthusiast-friends, and had to add it to my collection since it was only $70. Well, it's going back to HF tonight!
Ross:
Thanks for the concern on the CR, but I'd like to keep my 10.2:1 for "just" 450WHP. Of course, this will be running meth, which is highly effective.
Also, I am keeping my stock rods!
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
One thing I haven't exercised yet is my access to work tools. I'm going to borrow a 3/4" or 1" American-made impact wrench
It's just that I had heard good things about the 1/2" HF one from my car-enthusiast-friends, and had to add it to my collection since it was only $70. Well, it's going back to HF tonight!
Ross:
Thanks for the concern on the CR, but I'd like to keep my 10.2:1 for "just" 450WHP. Of course, this will be running meth, which is highly effective.
Also, I am keeping my stock rods!
Mac... you have the correct CR.. it's when you lower the CR.. you lower volume... good job... whether by accident or on purpose... you win.
LOL.. bring the 1" American made impact home.. walk up the motor with the same swagger as the fax machine scene in office space... maybe play some rap music
Spoken like Enzo Ferrari himself on connecting rods..
and seriously.. there is a part from your original post that I would like to talk to you about.
Knowledge is power.. i need to deliver some data to you. Call when you get a chance. I choose not to make public my knowledge.. just like the other great minds involved in the NSX.. that log in as guests.
Regards
How much boost are u planning on running?
Thanks Ross, I'll give you a call soon.
BATMANS:
I plan on running about 10psi of boost.
This will be with twin Aerochargers under the trunk (but with a custom rear bank header for better layout/flow), or twin BW EFR6255's.
If I go with the EFR's, the front bank custom manifold will go over to the passenger side, up where the old fuel stuff would be, and pressurize directly to a custom front bank intake manifold with meth. The rear bank will use a modified NA2 exhaust manifold that will go right to the turbo sitting on top of the transmission. This will pressurize a custom rear bank intake manifold with meth. I took awhile removing the engine because I spent a few days coming up with original turbo layouts :redface:
I have not seen any NSX's with turbos (besides the SOS system) with optimum placement. It's a difficult layout to work around. I don't like the SOS twin system because of all the piping restriction they had to take just to get the turbos near the heads. It's a compromise.
I figure both routes I take will cost an equal amount. Twin Aerochargers will be $5k for the turbos and basically no intrusive layout, whereas twin EFR's will be about $3k (I want the turbine speed sensors too) and money in the intake manifolds, throttle bodies, headers, and alternator layout. Even the smallest frame EFR is big, so I'd have to get my hands on a mock one to make sure it would even fit on the passenger side to begin with.
Aerochargers would be better, but there's just a slight hesitation I have on their longevity. I haven't heard of any issues with the new design and the original owners are back, so things are looking good. Maybe in the next 6 months I'll have the custom setup running.
So that's my long story!
BATMANS:
I plan on running about 10psi of boost.
This will be with twin Aerochargers under the trunk (but with a custom rear bank header for better layout/flow), or twin BW EFR6255's.
If I go with the EFR's, the front bank custom manifold will go over to the passenger side, up where the old fuel stuff would be, and pressurize directly to a custom front bank intake manifold with meth. The rear bank will use a modified NA2 exhaust manifold that will go right to the turbo sitting on top of the transmission. This will pressurize a custom rear bank intake manifold with meth. I took awhile removing the engine because I spent a few days coming up with original turbo layouts :redface:
I have not seen any NSX's with turbos (besides the SOS system) with optimum placement. It's a difficult layout to work around. I don't like the SOS twin system because of all the piping restriction they had to take just to get the turbos near the heads. It's a compromise.
I figure both routes I take will cost an equal amount. Twin Aerochargers will be $5k for the turbos and basically no intrusive layout, whereas twin EFR's will be about $3k (I want the turbine speed sensors too) and money in the intake manifolds, throttle bodies, headers, and alternator layout. Even the smallest frame EFR is big, so I'd have to get my hands on a mock one to make sure it would even fit on the passenger side to begin with.
Aerochargers would be better, but there's just a slight hesitation I have on their longevity. I haven't heard of any issues with the new design and the original owners are back, so things are looking good. Maybe in the next 6 months I'll have the custom setup running.
So that's my long story!
Just checked this out from work... 3/4" IR industrial.... Should have some balls to it :biggrin:
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Just checked this out from work... 3/4" IR industrial.... Should have some balls to it :biggrin:
the same one i found.. but your looks better
Hey Dave, my 66 series 178/430's have been in for two years now, (wow, time does fly), if you go that route you will have no issue hitting 10 PSI with twins, they are very easy to layout and so far I have had no issues at all. At one year into it I removed my entire system and checked every part and piece to check for wear and general condition. I found no issues with any part of my system and the turbos were as good as new, still had a little over half of their oil supply, and the vain and vain controller were smooth and free moving. I think the issues of old are not really an issue any longer. If you decide to order the Aerochargers call me first, I may be able to hook you up.
Are you still targeting the 450whp, because with a proper layout and meth you should be able to get there with aprox. 8lbs, not 10lbs. I think my car would easily make 450whp with meth at my current boost level. and 10PSI I think it would be more like 475-490whp.
Dave
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Thank you for the info Dave. I agree, I don't think reliability is a concern anymore with the original owners back in control and making some design changes like new triple ceramic ball bearings, extra heat shields between the housings, and material changes.
Without intercoolers on my arrangement, the targeted efficiencies, and my lack of experience with meth, I'm not exactly sure where I'll end up. I think the 200/482's would be the ticket as I certainly want to limit my boost to no more than 10psi on these just for my own reassurance.
Well, didn't get the pulley off tonight. Went to three hardware stores and none of them carried a 19mm impact socket in a 3/4" drive or a 1" drive. I did buy a 3/4" to 1" impact conversion just in case I can find a 1" drive socket. By the time I got my little ones to bed it's too late for more local shopping.... Tomorrow though!
If there's a napa around they should have a 6 point 19mm impact socket. That's I think where we got mine when I needed one.
