Semi-DIY Mild Engine Build for FI

ken sampson said:
The most important thing I missed were Time serts.
These are tapped into block so your ARP head bolts have a stronger clamp.
After my head gasket started leaking I had to drop the motor and send it to Shad to have them installed. Ken
Click to expand...

Good point. Thank you.

I'll be putting in the ARP head studs. The ARP studs are something... I need to figure out how much extra initial torque than they recommend. Otherwise, correctly, you need to retorque the heads after the initial heat cycle :confused: Yeah, like that's going to happen.

Timesert kits are expensive, so I'm going to talk to my block machinist about that when the time comes. I'll probably go with them.

Dave
 
Mac Attack said:
Good point. Thank you.

I'll be putting in the ARP head studs. The ARP studs are something... I need to figure out how much extra initial torque than they recommend. Otherwise, correctly, you need to retorque the heads after the initial heat cycle :confused: Yeah, like that's going to happen.

Timesert kits are expensive, so I'm going to talk to my block machinist about that when the time comes. I'll probably go with them.

Dave
Click to expand...

Around here the time serts are $400 for the block...
 
BATMANs said:
So where was the leakage coming from? accelerated worn or cracked rings?
Click to expand...

Worm out. 119k miles and over 125 track days. :smile:
I drove it from San Jose to SOS and dropped it off. :smile:

The only broken part was a cracked main cap.

How much boost were you running after your last tune?
I remember you switched out the inter-cooler to get more boost.

You don't run meth correct?

Was your motor a 3.0 or 3.2?
 
nsxnut said:
Worm out. 119k miles and over 125 track days. :smile:
I drove it from San Jose to SOS and dropped it off. :smile:

The only broken part was a cracked main cap.

How much boost were you running after your last tune?
I remember you switched out the inter-cooler to get more boost.

You don't run meth correct?

Was your motor a 3.0 or 3.2?
Click to expand...

At the time of my engine demise I was running 10psi~.

I dun run meth, just straight gas since my goals are to have a streetable solution that will pass the sniffer (which it did).

3.0 motor.

My builder is going to check the OEM sleeves to see if there were any ovaling.
 
nsxnut said:
I thought at one time you were running more boost than that?
~14 lbs?

If so that may have been what caused issues.

Mine passes smog. I could have gone for a 3.5L but at the time Chris didn't think I could smog it.

Later,
Don
Click to expand...

When i was using the Laminova, Shad had to run a 13psi pulley to make up for the 3psi~ pressure lost.
 
I thought my boost pressure gauge senses the pressure after the inter-cooler? aka what the cylinders will see.

I believe you swapped out the inter-cooler thinking it was restrictive.
You are saying a 3lb drop... aka needed blower to put out 13 to see 10 to the cyl?
Not sure if your intake temperature increased due to the swap?

My stock motor was a 3.0. I had the Comptech high boost kit I think is good for ~7lbs of boost if that.

It was rebuilt to a 3.2 Low compression. Now it makes 440 at the wheels.
I have the SOS inter-cooler.

I thought you got above this on your 3.0. Were the internals stock?
Stock compression? This may have been what took out the rings?
 
nsxnut said:
I thought my boost pressure gauge senses the pressure after the inter-cooler? aka what the cylinders will see.

I believe you swapped out the inter-cooler thinking it was restrictive.
You are saying a 3lb drop... aka needed blower to put out 13 to see 10 to the cyl?
Not sure if your intake temperature increased due to the swap?

My stock motor was a 3.0. I had the Comptech high boost kit I think is good for ~7lbs of boost if that.

It was rebuilt to a 3.2 Low compression. Now it makes 440 at the wheels.
I have the SOS inter-cooler.

I thought you got above this on your 3.0. Were the internals stock?
Stock compression? This may have been what took out the rings?
Click to expand...

My engine was stock.
 
They checked the cylinder walls and none of them were outta round.

I was going to do the Darton re-sleeving but decided against it since the engine builder said that it will put additional load against the heads and head bolts since they are now burdened with keeping the sleeves from sliding up and down as oppose to the OEM sleeves that are cast into the block.

he said that sleeves are ideal if u are running LOTS of power and continuously at high heat and high RPM track scenerios.

Street driving with occasional sprints doesn't appear to warrant the darton sleeves for my application.

The billet main caps will be upgraded.
 
Nice - who's doing the work?


My car will be taken apart beginning Monday December 19th :smile: Was out last week in Florida, so I lost a bunch of AEM-tinkering time. Oh well, I'm feeling pretty comfortable with it already.

Dave
 
Mac Attack said:
Nice - who's doing the work?


My car will be taken apart beginning Monday December 19th :smile: Was out last week in Florida, so I lost a bunch of AEM-tinkering time. Oh well, I'm feeling pretty comfortable with it already.

Dave
Click to expand...

A local machine shop that has done work on some VERY expensive and rare engines. They've been in business for decades.
 
BATMANs said:
So one of my Knock sensor is broken.

attachment.php


http://www.stockwiseauto.com/produc...ear/1993/Make/Acura/Model/NSX/source/googleps
Click to expand...

After some research on old threads here (one of them I posted in:confused:), I've decided to go ahead and replace both knock sensors. They are a PITA to change later, and appear to get noisier with age anyways. Thanks for linking the aftermarket ones, but why not just go with the OEM? They're ~$40 more per sensor.

I'm trying to learn more about knock sensors before I purchase even new OEM ones. One guy here even looked at knock response with an o-scope. If theoretical knock frequency is ~6600Hz for the previous 90mm bore, I want a crystal sensitive to that range (well, with a new 90.5mm bore). Also, with the AEM Series2, I have a lot of knock inputs to play with. Anyways, just some random thoughts if you haven't purchased that aftermarket sensor yet.

BTW - I think I'll purchase that Delphi CPS from Ebay you linked to earlier. Thanks!

Dave
 
Mac Attack said:
.... Thanks for linking the aftermarket ones, but why not just go with the OEM? They're ~$40 more per sensor......
Click to expand...

I've been very happy with Airtex in past projects and I think they make parts for Aerospace, so you can imagine that their quality control has to be up there.
 
OK, I've got those Airtex knock sensors on their way along with the Ebay CPS you linked too. Airtex does make a bunch of OEM-replacement stuff. They even have a NSX CPS too, but the Ebay should be a Delphi. I went with the Delphi.



I'm still playing with the AEM. I want to be able to "get on it" after the rebuild so I can seat the rings properly. I just reduced the timing 5degrees from the baseline map to be safe (since my knock sensors seem to be noisy and I don't have time to fiddle with them yet). This should still generate high enough cylinder pressures to seat my rings. Now I'm making sure AFR is OK across the map. Overall, I think I've got it set well. This stuff just takes a lot of time when you don't have a load-set dyno to do this. The only thing I've got is a long, moderate hill to log and tune on....

Then, once your AFRs are set to what you want, then you also have to play with the acceleration enrichment. My AFR's would spike up to ~15:1 when I'd punch it for about 30milliseconds and then settle down to programmed values. So, I've been modifying those too. This AEM thing is pretty cool:cool:

I guess it shouldn't be a surprise I had to change the fuel and accel tables for my particular car. Reason is, looking at my baseline dyno, AFR was ~15:1 up till VTEC, and then it came down to where it should be at ~13:1. Stock, that's a little lean, and it could be due to a tired OEM pump, my 7YO fuel filter, or both. My injectors were cleaned/tested only 10k miles ago, so they should be good.... After I change to my custom fuel setup (Walbro pump, TrickFlow filter, modified fuel rail with AN fittings, and the AEM FPR), we'll see how much it changes the fuel map. I don't want to wash down the walls when trying to seat the rings.



Maybe I'm subconciously trying to avoid taking the car apart now, but I also welded on a few things for my exhaust today:rolleyes: On went a Helmholtz resonator to quiet down my loud mode from 2500 to 3000 RPM, and I also changed my "tip" to try and tone it down a bit overall.

Ever see an NSX with "sacks?" I think I've been down South too long. This will all get covered up with my diffusor (that will extend 4" past the bumper):

Test2.JPG





The teardown begins this Sunday or Monday!

Dave
 
Forgot to add that we need an "Official AEM EMS" thread to help each other out with.

For example, I got a timing light that would work with the NSX #1 loop test signal off the ignitor box. The Equus 3568 works well and is only $70. It was interesting my baseline timing was 17degrees (spec is 15 +/- 2 degrees). There's just been a few threads on the history of Prime discussing taking your own timing readings :confused: Of course, these were folks having issues so I was a little concerned I was going to have issues too.

I sync'd it to the EMS no problem. I didn't even have to touch up the paint on my original crankshaft pulley. I could see the 15 degree BTDC mark just fine :smile: and it was easy with the AEM timing tool wizard to match them. It only took a minor adjustment of 0.094 teeth to sync!

Dave
 
Dont forget to call me when you need that helping hand.
 
Thanks Chris,

Would you be able to help me with some tuning in the next few days? I'd like for you to ride with me and do some real-time monitoring. Also would like to get your feedback on the revised exhaust :wink:

I'm going to do some more tuning tomorrow morning, but then the rest of the day and obviously Sunday are shot. Maybe Monday? Monday evening I'd like to start draining fluids.

Thanks!

Dave
 
Tommorrow I'll be free before 3pm.
Monday I'm off.

Just let me know
 

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