Remote reservoir dampers. What's your experience with noise?
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
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You don't realize it yet.. but you're in this too! Don't wuss out on us now...DG-5 vs. KW... the battle will be LEGENDARY! Where is Best Motoring when you need them?
so now I'm really screwed lol
It's captain that said 90%. I'm putting money they're 150% better esp if you're driving your car and i'm driving mine! HA!
I'm running 9k/11k Swifts (Don't ask me what the SAE conversion is. SAE must die)
My buddy is running 9k/14k Swifts which is what Tsuchiya originally ships them with. You're right.. the good dampers like the stiffer spring rates. He's currently educating me on bumpstop tuning. Interesting stuff!
I'm running 9k/11k Swifts (Don't ask me what the SAE conversion is. SAE must die)
My buddy is running 9k/14k Swifts which is what Tsuchiya originally ships them with. You're right.. the good dampers like the stiffer spring rates. He's currently educating me on bumpstop tuning. Interesting stuff!
You are wrong. Good dampers that use high pressure nitrogen do not need stiff springs. These include jrz, moton, kw, etc. The high pressure acts to support the unsprung mass.
Japanese tuners run stiffer rear spring because they like to drift. For road racing, you have to look at the NSX wheel rates thus why Honda, Comptech, etc use higher front spring rates.
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ugh...i won't even respond to this...
I'm sure you still think this is true too... "Think of it like a table. If the back two legs are slightly longer, then more of the weight is supported by those legs."?
Janz (jrz) book goes into specific technical details of why high pressure gas shocks don't need super stiff springs. As well, I believe it is even stated on SOS website on the Moton page that you can get away with lighter springs with this type of damper design. So do a little research before you roll your eyes.
I rode in an S2K last weekend with some inexpensive coilovers the guy swore have an awesome ride and handling. I think BC coilovers. His spring rates were high, not as high as mine. Honest to god my car rides like a Bentley compared to that thing. I don't know about the handling but the ride... wow... I will put up with a little squeak any day if that's the compromise.
Holy shit....WOW...
18/11 for the street ?...Way, way to much and I personally think a 700 lb spread is also way to much.
I run the KW Clubsports with 857/457 and love them. They are on the firm side on the street but not brutal. I drive my car on the street at least 10,000 miles a year.
On the track, they are just as great. I also run the Trophy front sway bar and a Zirnardi rear sway bar. I track my NSX hard at least 24 times a year. Currently 3rd in points in NASA-AZ TTU and leading the points in the UMS Time Attack Series in C Class. So I'd say they work pretty well all around.
After reading through this thread again, a better choice for you would have been the Clubsports, I believe that they would have been the perfect compromise you were looking for. They come with 457/457, but upgrading to 857 on the fronts is easy.
18/11 for the street ?...Way, way to much and I personally think a 700 lb spread is also way to much.
I run the KW Clubsports with 857/457 and love them. They are on the firm side on the street but not brutal. I drive my car on the street at least 10,000 miles a year.
On the track, they are just as great. I also run the Trophy front sway bar and a Zirnardi rear sway bar. I track my NSX hard at least 24 times a year. Currently 3rd in points in NASA-AZ TTU and leading the points in the UMS Time Attack Series in C Class. So I'd say they work pretty well all around.
After reading through this thread again, a better choice for you would have been the Clubsports, I believe that they would have been the perfect compromise you were looking for. They come with 457/457, but upgrading to 857 on the fronts is easy.
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Coz, it's 1000 front and 600 rear. Comptech rates. 18Kg, 11Kg, roughly. Idk what you are saying is really crazy, are you mistaking 18/11 for 1800/1100 pounds? My ride is what i would describe as "taught" at most, absolutely not harsh. Actually the guys at KW were telling me about an NSX'er with club sports and that I should talk to him, now I am thinking that was you. So you have zero noise?
Ahhhh, OK...yes, I took it as pounds rather than KG, my bad.
Yes, Jorge talked to me about your situation and asked if it was ok to give you my contact information
...he suggested that that if you decide you didn't like them that I try and work out a trade.
Yes, I have zero noise. They are as solid as can be. I love my KW's and couldn't be more happy with them.
Yes, Jorge talked to me about your situation and asked if it was ok to give you my contact information
...he suggested that that if you decide you didn't like them that I try and work out a trade.Yes, I have zero noise. They are as solid as can be. I love my KW's and couldn't be more happy with them.
I agree with you here. If you look at all of the race prepped NSXs they all use a a softer spring in the rear. Why would you want it the other way around ?
A rear spring that is stiffer than the front spring will definitely make the rear loose.
Running sans a rear sway bar (or the equivalent) may give more grip but once that rearend let's go you're into the wall. Unless your a pro driver or have great reflexes you want some predictability back there so don't be afraid of a little rear end slide.
just because drifting became popular in Japan it doesn't mean that's all they do.
just because drifting became popular in Japan it doesn't mean that's all they do.
How do you figure? Please explain.
Running without a rear sway isn't going to exacerbate snap oversteer or make the car less predictable.
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Isn't? Go try it and come back and report your results...
Prime these days are filled with misinformation caused by the 5 guys that post and think they know it all.
By the way.. one might be faster (if you're a real good driver) w/o a rear sway or soft rear springs but for the majority of HPDE or mediocre weekend drivers who will benefit from learning to control a rear slide, get out of it, or prevent it, it may not be a good thing.
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The purpose of running stiffer springs and a larger sway bar upfront, and weaker springs and smaller sway bar in the rear is to eliminate oversteer and get the NSX to start pushing. At which point you start dialing out the push with compression setting and tire pressures until you get it neutral.
The OEM set up has a nasty over steer problem Weak fronts/Stiffer rears, which leads to over steer and then snap over steer from over correcting, which most beginners do.
I for one have raced my NSX's and instructed enough novice NSX owners over the last 5 years with OEM set ups to see it over and over again.
I have been tracking an NSX's now for 5 years, and yes have tried it both ways, I'll stick to stiffer front and weaker rear, as will most others with any real experience.
Ever stop to think that those 5 your referring to have the experience to know something about what they are talking about from actually doing it ?
So please, tell us the experience you have setting up a NSX and actually driving it on a race track.
I'm sure we'd all like to go faster and can benefit from all your wisdom....
The OEM set up has a nasty over steer problem Weak fronts/Stiffer rears, which leads to over steer and then snap over steer from over correcting, which most beginners do.
I for one have raced my NSX's and instructed enough novice NSX owners over the last 5 years with OEM set ups to see it over and over again.
I have been tracking an NSX's now for 5 years, and yes have tried it both ways, I'll stick to stiffer front and weaker rear, as will most others with any real experience.
Ever stop to think that those 5 your referring to have the experience to know something about what they are talking about from actually doing it ?
So please, tell us the experience you have setting up a NSX and actually driving it on a race track.
I'm sure we'd all like to go faster and can benefit from all your wisdom....
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Thats it ?
You make the statement:
"Prime these days are filled with misinformation caused by the 5 guys that post and think they know it all"
...and then offer nothing to prove the misinformation and advice given to others by those with racing experience ?
Do you even own an NSX ?
You make the statement:
"Prime these days are filled with misinformation caused by the 5 guys that post and think they know it all"
...and then offer nothing to prove the misinformation and advice given to others by those with racing experience ?
Do you even own an NSX ?
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No, if you have something to add we're happy to listen. But the 5 guys that post and think they know it all... don't know it all. We just try to do our best to help by relaying our experiences and what we have learned.
As you can see, I've got quite the assortment of springs. :biggrin: And my fair share of track time in the NSX over the last 6 years. I started withe OEM, then sway bars, then Comptech Pro coilovers and then moved to the JRZ RS. I have run 1000/800, 1000/700, 1000/600, 800/600, 600/500, 600/450, 450/350, 450/450 setups on the street and track. So I have some experience with testing various setups. In addition I have run the following sway bar combos oem, Dali Street/Track (19mm), Dali Track (21), Type R (19mm) and various combinations front and rear. INCLUDING no REAR sway bar.
And even though I have experience with many different setups and alignment settings, I still don't know everything.
So if you are going to make a statement that "Running sans a rear sway bar (or the equivalent) may give more grip but once that rearend let's go you're into the wall.".... please explain why you think this is so?
And FYI: DAL Motorsports ran a HUGE front sway and no rear sway at all.
http://ojas.net/nsx/mirror/dal#Sway Bars
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realtime #42 ahhh the good old days, ran a huge front bar and ......no rear...I rode in that car and can say it was not twitchy at all......so like all the others have said we try to help the novices with our real world experience so they can improve faster.....you are right in one thing,and that is a good driver can work through a flawed setup much better than the novice....but again with the nsx wheel rates the stiffer front is very helpful in overall balance.
Captain,
Like you I have tried many combinations as well.
I have run 857/457, 757/457, 628/457, 457/457, 487/357, OEM, and stiffer rears and weaker fronts in combinations. OEM sway bars, Dali Street/Track (19mm), Dali Track (21), Trophy bar/Zanardi bar in various combinations front and rear. Also including no rear sway bar.
So where are you now ?
What have you found with your current set up ?
Like you I have tried many combinations as well.
I have run 857/457, 757/457, 628/457, 457/457, 487/357, OEM, and stiffer rears and weaker fronts in combinations. OEM sway bars, Dali Street/Track (19mm), Dali Track (21), Trophy bar/Zanardi bar in various combinations front and rear. Also including no rear sway bar.
So where are you now ?
What have you found with your current set up ?
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