Performance Shock, Inc. Ohlins TTX
- Thread starter Mac Attack
- Start date
I'm done with dumping any more money into this platform! Time to drive it more!
I hope you figure out the damper mounting in the front. I compromised on mine and ran as long of a spring as I could with the pistons. At full droop the spring perch makes contact to the uca 
One if the reasons I spent extra for the external reservoirs is to have the compression knob mounted in a more easier to access spot. I'm not a good enough driver to know the difference with out the reservoirs but I'm very thankful for the convenience.
One if the reasons I spent extra for the external reservoirs is to have the compression knob mounted in a more easier to access spot. I'm not a good enough driver to know the difference with out the reservoirs but I'm very thankful for the convenience.
I hope you figure out the damper mounting in the front. I compromised on mine and ran as long of a spring as I could with the pistons. At full droop the spring perch makes contact to the uca
One if the reasons I spent extra for the external reservoirs is to have the compression knob mounted in a more easier to access spot. I'm not a good enough driver to know the difference with out the reservoirs but I'm very thankful for the convenience.
You have a really nice setup Regan and I think there's a fix you may want to consider now or at your next rebuild - front internal droop limiters. Should be simple and cheap once you have the damper opened up.
Good point on the external reservoirs making adjustment easier. That is definitely a factor to consider if you compare the different designs available to us. Adjusting the KW V3's is a PITA. The TTX compression and rebound adjustments are easy to get to. I can reach my arm in to adjust them without lifting the car or removing a wheel.
The good news from PSi is that they should wrap up my build this week and ship everything out to me. So far, I can't praise them enough on their knowledge, professionalism, and friendliness.
For example, they noticed the lift cup piston I sent them for test fitment had inferior seals on it (even though the seals were new). They proactively replaced them, pressure tested the piston up to 500 psi, and then offered to replace the others! That's pretty awesome.
Here's the final product:
View attachment 156118
You can see that to keep costs lower, PSi worked with me on adapting my old top hats to the clevis style that is ideal for spherical bearings. They even tested my old springs to see if we could reuse those. Unfortunately, to keep as much compression travel as possible up front with the lift kit, we had to use a custom inverted clevis mount. I really can't say enough good things about PSi. They know what they're doing, work with a lot of professionals (they built Shad's Driving Ambition TTX coilovers too), but are still willing to work with small custom projects. They keep a customer build log, send dyno sheets, and I also have a six-page invoice of every part used.
View attachment 156120
View attachment 156121
The Platinum air kit works well. When I was researching the various options about seven years ago, I liked these because they have a larger surface area (uses less pressure so the compressor can run at around 100 psi and be quieter and longer-lasting), they are longer to utilize as much damper droop as possible and therefore lift the car higher, and seemed to be made a little more robustly than the others (but are heavier).
Well, the pic below shows how much lift I have. Now I can run an elaborate underbody with extended rear diffusor and front splitter and not worry about scraping anywhere! That's next on the list....
View attachment 156119
I originally had two 1 gallon aluminum air tanks, but decided to cut back to one for space savings and simplicity. This is just temporary because it interferes with my radiator ducting, but it works fine to get a full lift on all four cups at 125 psi before the compressor kicks in.
View attachment 156122
Very happy with the way this turned out. Still tweaking the height and then I would like to get it weighed and aligned. The ride is great.
If you're looking for new coilovers, give PSi a call.
View attachment 156118
You can see that to keep costs lower, PSi worked with me on adapting my old top hats to the clevis style that is ideal for spherical bearings. They even tested my old springs to see if we could reuse those. Unfortunately, to keep as much compression travel as possible up front with the lift kit, we had to use a custom inverted clevis mount. I really can't say enough good things about PSi. They know what they're doing, work with a lot of professionals (they built Shad's Driving Ambition TTX coilovers too), but are still willing to work with small custom projects. They keep a customer build log, send dyno sheets, and I also have a six-page invoice of every part used.
View attachment 156120
View attachment 156121
The Platinum air kit works well. When I was researching the various options about seven years ago, I liked these because they have a larger surface area (uses less pressure so the compressor can run at around 100 psi and be quieter and longer-lasting), they are longer to utilize as much damper droop as possible and therefore lift the car higher, and seemed to be made a little more robustly than the others (but are heavier).
Well, the pic below shows how much lift I have. Now I can run an elaborate underbody with extended rear diffusor and front splitter and not worry about scraping anywhere! That's next on the list....
View attachment 156119
I originally had two 1 gallon aluminum air tanks, but decided to cut back to one for space savings and simplicity. This is just temporary because it interferes with my radiator ducting, but it works fine to get a full lift on all four cups at 125 psi before the compressor kicks in.
View attachment 156122
Very happy with the way this turned out. Still tweaking the height and then I would like to get it weighed and aligned. The ride is great.
If you're looking for new coilovers, give PSi a call.
that looks so nice. Is the kit more costly than the ilift and kwv3?
Those look nice Dave. I’d like to think they are in my future.
Thank you.
Well, it's not really a kit per se. PSi now has everything they need to produce other Ohlins TTX, DFV, or whatever other damper you want.
The Ohlins TTX are more than double the cost of the KWV3's, but the Ohlins DFVs are about $1k more than the KW's. The DFV's seem to be the hot ticket for mostly street use in the Porsche, Evo, and S2000 worlds right now.
The iLift kit is the only plug-n-play setup for the NSX as far as I know. Everything else will require some customization.
The iLift is nice, and I answered a lot of questions for Steven when he was designing it about seven years ago. However, if you can live without the iLift automatic lift mode and are handy, then you can source your own cups, compressor, air dryer, tank, switches, and fittings for about half the price.
Well, it's not really a kit per se. PSi now has everything they need to produce other Ohlins TTX, DFV, or whatever other damper you want.
The Ohlins TTX are more than double the cost of the KWV3's, but the Ohlins DFVs are about $1k more than the KW's. The DFV's seem to be the hot ticket for mostly street use in the Porsche, Evo, and S2000 worlds right now.
The iLift kit is the only plug-n-play setup for the NSX as far as I know. Everything else will require some customization.
The iLift is nice, and I answered a lot of questions for Steven when he was designing it about seven years ago. However, if you can live without the iLift automatic lift mode and are handy, then you can source your own cups, compressor, air dryer, tank, switches, and fittings for about half the price.
and the yummy mods continue... !!!
Congrats Dave, that is a heck of a setup!
PSI makes all the TTX units for Singer if that makes a difference for anyone. (not sure if Dave mentioned this prior)
Thanks Honcho. It's been hard not to drive it too much these past few days until I can get it in tomorrow for the overdue state inspection. It expired a few months ago while the car was out of commission. I just don't want to take a chance on having it towed worst-case.
RYU - I highly recommend PSi and they are knowledgeable on AST/Moton, Penske, JRZ, Bilstein, Koni, and other brands. The owner Bruce began this NSX project and then Brandon brought it across the finish line. Awesome guys to work with. The only thing I recommend is don't wait until racing season to begin your project. They warned me, and in hindsight, I should have listened. I completely understand - Their repeat racing customers on deadlines take priority. However, they always answered/returned my calls/emails on the same day.
RYU - I highly recommend PSi and they are knowledgeable on AST/Moton, Penske, JRZ, Bilstein, Koni, and other brands. The owner Bruce began this NSX project and then Brandon brought it across the finish line. Awesome guys to work with. The only thing I recommend is don't wait until racing season to begin your project. They warned me, and in hindsight, I should have listened. I completely understand - Their repeat racing customers on deadlines take priority. However, they always answered/returned my calls/emails on the same day.
I'm pretty happy with my JRZs. Still have a lot to learn with that setup. It felt amazing (for me) at NSXPO so ignorance is bliss for now
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
It looks like the guy working on it had their fun with it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x-Y5wcDLXQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x-Y5wcDLXQ
[MENTION=10201]goldNSX[/MENTION]
I just got home from the inspection. How did you find that? Yes, it was my buddy doing the inspection. It passed :smile:
It's a pain removing the turbos, but that was my good exhaust installed. It's too bad they had that crummy music - he asked me if it was ok to rev it in the shop. That exhaust sounds so awesome. Got a thumbs up from a 575 owner on the way home when we went under an overpass.
Now I just need to swap the turbos, install the AEM, swap injectors, swap plugs, lower the car more, corner balance and align, and that's it for this year. Next year is finish the aero and dash. Phew.
I just got home from the inspection. How did you find that? Yes, it was my buddy doing the inspection. It passed :smile:
It's a pain removing the turbos, but that was my good exhaust installed. It's too bad they had that crummy music - he asked me if it was ok to rev it in the shop. That exhaust sounds so awesome. Got a thumbs up from a 575 owner on the way home when we went under an overpass.
Now I just need to swap the turbos, install the AEM, swap injectors, swap plugs, lower the car more, corner balance and align, and that's it for this year. Next year is finish the aero and dash. Phew.
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What rear camber are you guys running on the street?
I can't go any lower in the rear without going to TiDave's rear beam and reducing the camber. Already on the street I have zero acceleration traction even with sticky Kumho Ecsta V720s.
For those with the rear beam bearings, how long did you get before they made noise?
Thanks.
I can't go any lower in the rear without going to TiDave's rear beam and reducing the camber. Already on the street I have zero acceleration traction even with sticky Kumho Ecsta V720s.
For those with the rear beam bearings, how long did you get before they made noise?
Thanks.
How can they make noise when they are clamped in place?
I'm looking at the rear beam bearings here:
http://www.cedarridgefabrication.com/NSX_Suspension
I've heard from a few that they've started making noises.
Interesting. Dave says on that page he’s never had one wear out. I’d like to get his take. Plus, it shouldn’t be hard to replace the spherical in them. I didn’t realize that’s how they are put together. I don’t think mine make noise but sometimes it’s hard to tell what does (my car is not silent; I’m pretty sure the front swaybar links are the primary offenders).
Yeah, I need to talk with him about it. I certainly don't want to perpetuate any misinformation about his products. I'm using his front sway bar links, compliance clamp, and short shift kit and like them.
Edit - After looking at the rear LCA geometry some more, I think it would be best to replace the front lower bushing at the same time as the rear beam bushings with an offset one too. That's why the camber reduction on just the rear beam varies between 0.9-1.2 degrees among our cars... It depends how robust the other bushings are from age and mileage. It would be better to do both lower bushings at the same time. When I had the rear subframe out of the car during the motor rebuild it was pretty amazing how stiff the suspension is from just the bushings.
When an oem front sway bar endlink went about a year ago it sounded like the front end was going to fall off when going over bumps. I pried on them during troubleshooting but didn't observe any play. I ended up just replacing them because I couldn't find anything wrong with the front end and knew they had to be near the end of their life. Sure enough, after replacement, it was back to normal. I just couldn't believe how loud it was. My buddy in the video above couldn't believe the difference either when he was helping troubleshoot the issue.
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After messing around with these a bit more, the car just isn't low enough to what I would want, although the ride is great!
I'm currently using 7" long springs at all four corners. The collars are lowered all the way so there is just a 5lb preload on the springs at full droop and it still sits too high.
There was a potential for this and I wanted to avoid it because the fix will add another ~$400 - Tender springs.
I'm going to have to swap the 7" springs for 5" springs plus a 150 lb/in tender spring that's nominally about 2.7" uncompressed. Weak helper springs are cheaper, but the tenders should help improve handling over big bumps, yet are still low-enough rate such that they'll remain compressed at normal ride height and the complicated dual-rate setup doesn't need to be factored into damping.
Block heights are still good, and the approximate 0.875" drop I'll get up front will translate to the lowest I would go considering the motion ratio. The rears will also be swapped just to keep to keep everything uniform.
This is the lowest I can currently go in the front now:
View attachment 156225
I'm currently using 7" long springs at all four corners. The collars are lowered all the way so there is just a 5lb preload on the springs at full droop and it still sits too high.
There was a potential for this and I wanted to avoid it because the fix will add another ~$400 - Tender springs.
I'm going to have to swap the 7" springs for 5" springs plus a 150 lb/in tender spring that's nominally about 2.7" uncompressed. Weak helper springs are cheaper, but the tenders should help improve handling over big bumps, yet are still low-enough rate such that they'll remain compressed at normal ride height and the complicated dual-rate setup doesn't need to be factored into damping.
Block heights are still good, and the approximate 0.875" drop I'll get up front will translate to the lowest I would go considering the motion ratio. The rears will also be swapped just to keep to keep everything uniform.
This is the lowest I can currently go in the front now:
View attachment 156225
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
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Youtube - NSX - sorted by date DESC
Not yours but I like the way her hair is flying out of the window, the cute girl who didn't know how to open the front hood: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcKgLxuCyJY
Sorry for hijack.
I don't want people to think that I'm removing the turbo to intentionally bypass emissions. In PA you are exempt from emissions testing if you drive less than 5k miles per year or have a classic or antique registration. I meet two of those criteria. The problem is that I would like to drive it more now that the mods have been proven reliable. A classic registration is only for occasional use, so I keep thinking about changing it to a normal one. Someday everything will align, but in the meantime I like both NA and FI in this car. They each have their benefits and drawbacks.
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