- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
WOW jeff, pretty good there. My car is in the same state as it will head to paint hopefully by end of next week and finished by next sunday.
post more pics.
gil
post more pics.
gil
Project: Widebody - 02 Conversion
- Thread starter Jeff@Carbon6
- Start date
01blacks4 said:
There were two that I know of Mine was black and there was a guy from Oshkosh that had a yellow one. I think he bought the yellow one new. I bought mine used with 32K on it from North Carolina. What a great car that was. I sold it for more than I bought it for after driving it for 1 1/2 years. :biggrin:
I started the car for the first time since October with the new exhaust. I have never heard an NSX sound like this before. The Sorcery exhaust is the most "BAD ASS" sound I have ever heard. It's a super low rumble at idle (almost like a V12) and like an F1 car at 3000 RPMs. I didn't rev it higher than that today. I'll try to get a sound bite before it goes to the body shop tomorrow.
Jeff
Jeff
Any updates? Am I being impatient? You bet! :biggrin:
The car left for the body shop on Monday. I stopped in Tuesday to drop off the front end parts I had to take off to get in on the flat bed :biggrin: They had already started to do some work on it. A job like this they will run on the side of their other (insurance) work. When the guys are done with their other work they will jump on mine. I talked to a few of the body guys at the shop. They all seemed to like the car (which is a plus to them doing good work) but also pointed out quite a few things on the car that I had not noticed. That's why they do what they do. I know the shop I'm using is good. They do quite a bit of fiberglass work on old Corvettes and other Euro cars.
I was planing to stop in mid next week to see where they're at. I'll try to get some pics at various stages in the shop. I'm still planing to get it back in 6-8 weeks. I hope
I was planing to stop in mid next week to see where they're at. I'll try to get some pics at various stages in the shop. I'm still planing to get it back in 6-8 weeks. I hope
Veleno said:
The guys came to pick it up early from the body shop and my camera was on the charger... Sorry! I'm going to stop by next week at their shop and I'll try to get a sound bite of it running.
cant wait to see the out come.
What paint color did u choose? :smile:
What paint color did u choose? :smile:
amgnsx said:
Sticking with the Formula Red. Just updating to a 3 stage paint from the original 2. The car will get a base of color, a tinted clear and a clear coat over that. Should make the car much brighter and deaper.
Wow!!!
Nice work my friend!!
Haven't chatted with you in awhile. Now that you have your car out of the garage, we ought to do some chatting. I must say, I am getting a tad concerned about it not being ready by June!!! Get ON those guys at the shop!!! ;-)
Hey, are you coming down to Hartford for the meet this weekend??
Nice work my friend!!
Haven't chatted with you in awhile. Now that you have your car out of the garage, we ought to do some chatting. I must say, I am getting a tad concerned about it not being ready by June!!! Get ON those guys at the shop!!! ;-)
Hey, are you coming down to Hartford for the meet this weekend??
Just got back from the body shop. They are much farther along than I thought they would be. I quess my work was good 
The whole front end should get primer today or tomorrow. The promissed me the car by the end of May. I had my video camera to get a sound bite of the exhaust.
Here it is reved up to about 4700 rpm: (make sure you bass is turrned up at idle it just rumbles like a big bore motor)
http://www.imagdesigns.com/images/Shop420.MPG
Jeff
The whole front end should get primer today or tomorrow. The promissed me the car by the end of May. I had my video camera to get a sound bite of the exhaust.Here it is reved up to about 4700 rpm: (make sure you bass is turrned up at idle it just rumbles like a big bore motor)
http://www.imagdesigns.com/images/Shop420.MPG
Jeff
da3dalus said:Did you get the Sorcery GT Muffler?
Yup. They did their research, on the sound at least. Can't wait to drive it.
hey Jeff,
sounds sweet!
keep the photos coming too
can't wait for the finished product
sounds sweet!
keep the photos coming too
can't wait for the finished product
I just finished the prototype for the tail lights. I set up an array of 32 white led's in a halo for the running/brake lights. The lenses I have were only set up for a center lamp. Now each lens will have both the outer ring and center marker or back-up lamp. I figured I'd share a few pics.
My camera was set to auto adjust for light. The white leds on the brake (brighter of the two inputs) are literally blinding they are so bright. I may have to adjust the resistor values to compensate.
Jeff
My camera was set to auto adjust for light. The white leds on the brake (brighter of the two inputs) are literally blinding they are so bright. I may have to adjust the resistor values to compensate.
Jeff
WOW, very nice. Even the resistors are carefully positioned and the soldering meticulous.
By any chance do you wash your hands 3 times in a row with 3 different bars of soap?:biggrin:
Seriously, very nice!
By any chance do you wash your hands 3 times in a row with 3 different bars of soap?:biggrin:
Seriously, very nice!
Damn....It's like you are reinventing the NSX.....Sweet.:biggrin:
Jeff,
Can you make me one big ass Xmas wreath next year. :biggrin: The lights look great.
Can you make me one big ass Xmas wreath next year. :biggrin: The lights look great.
Hiroshima said:
Doesn't everybody?.... :wink: Actually, I kind of backed myself into a corner with some of these mods on the body etc. Just trying to complete everything without compromises (within reason) using my knowledge more thay my wallet... :smile:
Jeff
Do you really see every LED through the red lens when it's lit up?
Just wondering, does anyone make/sell LED's that are already setup like yours and in different sizes? It would seem that if there were such a thing (and priced decently) then more people would do custom installs like yours.
Great job BTW! I can't wait to see your car finished!
Just wondering, does anyone make/sell LED's that are already setup like yours and in different sizes? It would seem that if there were such a thing (and priced decently) then more people would do custom installs like yours.
Great job BTW! I can't wait to see your car finished!
Veleno said:
Yes, You do see each led from the side angles. Believe me, no one has anything like this. I tried the solid "puck" lights (used on semi trailers) and others. I've seen people use rope style or flexable lite strips and wrap tham inside a lens...
Not criticisms just some inputs ......... well intended! Maybe this is all known to you so apologies if I you already know what follows.
(& from what you have so far, clearly not rookie!)
It's more ideal to use red (or red/orange) leds with red filter - leds are not like incandescent bulbs where the colour spectrum is really wide. However it's fair to say I guess you are not short on intensity. Also a better choice of component is a Superflux led (the 4 pin ones).
Are these going to be at full intensity (whatever that ends up being) all the time, or do you want a dual capability for stop/tail? If so you can add a circuit called a PWM (pulse width modulator) - you can get for ~ $10. - you can also avoid having to change out all the resistors individually if you go that route! Leds are meant to operate in a specific current window & the correct way to 'dim' them is to apply the spec current, but so it is pulsed on & off which gives a net effect of being less intense.
Are you using each individual led/resistor as a parallel circuit to all the others? That's a large v drop across the resistors - you can typically use 3 or 4 in series per single resistor which will consume less power.
One thing I would definitely recommend is to use a voltage regulator - again these are pretty inexpensive (a couple of $$) - this will protect your LEDs long term - it's a PITA if you lose one or two!
Let me know if I can help in any way with the design/component selection.
Excellent resource here
(& from what you have so far, clearly not rookie!)
It's more ideal to use red (or red/orange) leds with red filter - leds are not like incandescent bulbs where the colour spectrum is really wide. However it's fair to say I guess you are not short on intensity. Also a better choice of component is a Superflux led (the 4 pin ones).
Are these going to be at full intensity (whatever that ends up being) all the time, or do you want a dual capability for stop/tail? If so you can add a circuit called a PWM (pulse width modulator) - you can get for ~ $10. - you can also avoid having to change out all the resistors individually if you go that route! Leds are meant to operate in a specific current window & the correct way to 'dim' them is to apply the spec current, but so it is pulsed on & off which gives a net effect of being less intense.
Are you using each individual led/resistor as a parallel circuit to all the others? That's a large v drop across the resistors - you can typically use 3 or 4 in series per single resistor which will consume less power.
One thing I would definitely recommend is to use a voltage regulator - again these are pretty inexpensive (a couple of $$) - this will protect your LEDs long term - it's a PITA if you lose one or two!
Let me know if I can help in any way with the design/component selection.
Excellent resource here
D'Ecosse said:
All very good points. I decided to use white because they were the brightest and most narrow view angle. The lens I am using (off a Chevy Cobalt...
) are set up as a reflector on the outer ring and only the center is designed to omit light. Because of the strong refractive properties of the red area I thought the white lamps would be best. I think you are right... red led's would be much more color correct. As for the circuit, I have a pair of the leds in series contain a 220 Ohm resistor. That's what my pen and paper came up with for the values. They are going to run dual intensity. The diodes and resistor on the front end of each input should keep the correct current and voltage across each led... in theory.
I will tweek it a bit I think. Thanks for the input.
How is this being sealed from water??
