NSX Injector O RINGS If you care

how does this happen exactly? :confused:

One of my writeups here

Honda actually DID a design error... and the consequences costed me $3000 to fix.

Probably Honda assumed that all owners wouldn't drive arround in the rain...but the rain is not the problem...with the car moving, the water don't get down the RWG...the rear glass stays dry (at least mine) even at very slow speeds.

Washing the car is the problem.... tons of water go down the RWG... fall in the rear cylinder head... the gasket for the coil cover is no chalenge for the water and the coils get soaked and over time they rust bad...water go down to the spark pug and fills up to the top...to the coil bottom...

This cause the misfire....and with the misfire we get burnt valves...that's what i was granted with... in the rear cylinder head, the first cylinder at the timming belt side had the 4 valves burnt....the other 5 cylinders were like new, after 87500mls.

with this i started to investigate.... the affected cylinder had the rustier coil.... the water finds a canal in the valve cover between the timingbelt part and the first cylinder...even with the coil cover gasket in its place, the water runs through there to the inside...

so...this appened a month after i bought the car...now, after 25000mls and amost 2 years, the car is running like new...why?? because i covered the rear cylinder head with a plastic to keep the water out of the coils... after every wash, when i removed the plastic it would come soaked...now i don't use the plastic anymore... i isolated each coil with rubber...water now can be all over, it won't affect anything...

so, as i said above.... HONDA DID IN FACT A CONCEPTION ERROR....
 
Thanks! Your post has been the most important one for me to justify buying three new rear coils which I will install in a few days. :wink:

i also bought the 3 rear ones.... and don't forget to isolate them with some kind of foam...like a spongy tape.... now, i wash my car without any problem

how much did the coils cost you??? mine were $75 each
 
One of my writeups here

omg I hope my car isn't having the same problem... It hasn't been running so smoothly lately :(

How can one make sure that this isn't the problem? thanks
 
omg I hope my car isn't having the same problem... It hasn't been running so smoothly lately :(

How can one make sure that this isn't the problem? thanks

what you can do first is:

- remove the sparks and compare the color of them all (reveals how combustion is)
- see how are the coil packs (rust)
- measure the compression of all cylinders and see differences

with these, you can see if futher steps are needed...or not :wink:
 
what you can do first is:

- remove the sparks and compare the color of them all (reveals how combustion is)
- see how are the coil packs (rust)
- measure the compression of all cylinders and see differences

with these, you can see if futher steps are needed...or not :wink:

Ok sounds good... I need to replace my spark plugs anyways... 73k miles and not sure if they have ever been replaced.. the engine is definitely misfiring. So hopefully its just a bad plug or coil... not a big deal to fix.

thanks for the input!

PS about how much does a compression test run? and how is it done?

(this thread has gone into the outer limits of off topicness haha)
 
PS about how much does a compression test run? and how is it done?

i don't know exactly the unit of the gauge....the reading was 170 for the good ones...and 70 for the bad one.... above 50% loss...pretty bad.
you do it removing all sparks and on each cylinder spark place screw down a hose that connects to a gauge...then have someone try to start the car for a few secs (but you have to have all sparks removed or else the car will start limb) so the gauge shows you it's higher value....then move to the next...
don't know if this is the correct procedure, but it's the MO here in Portugal on any car....


(this thread has gone into the outer limits of off topicness haha)
i think that there isn't off topic when some good for the community is on debate :wink:
 
i also bought the 3 rear ones.... and don't forget to isolate them with some kind of foam...like a spongy tape.... now, i wash my car without any problem

how much did the coils cost you??? mine were $75 each

About $73 each, yes. Thanks for the advise, I'll isolate them in this or the other way.

@enkrypt3d:

One of mine did not fire every ignition at idle but above 2k rpm firing every ignition. I could hear this directly at the exhaust. After getting them out it was better, may had some corrosion. After an engine wash-up it was like driving on 4 cylinders for a few minutes. :eek:
 
Still waiting for a DIY description. Do I have to break the fuel hard lines? Pull the fuel pump fuse? Anyone...
 
Still waiting for a DIY description. Do I have to break the fuel hard lines? Pull the fuel pump fuse? Anyone...

can't help you.... i have a idea of what to do, but as i never done it myself, i could advise you wrong...so i didn't say anything about it :wink:
 
This is a good idea. Thanks to the OP for bringing this to my attention and to Dan O for the write up.


Anybody have a set of 3.0 injectors I can borrow as a 'core' to send to RC engineering?
 
Ok sounds good... I need to replace my spark plugs anyways... 73k miles and not sure if they have ever been replaced.. the engine is definitely misfiring. So hopefully its just a bad plug or coil... not a big deal to fix.

thanks for the input!

PS about how much does a compression test run? and how is it done?

(this thread has gone into the outer limits of off topicness haha)

In your 1995 OBDII car you will get a CEL if you have a misfire. Assuming your CEL is working properly, you can get the code and it will tell you which cylinder:).

If your CEL light comes on before you start the car(bulb test) and you do not have one glowing when the car is running, hard to think it has a mis-fire. Not impossible, but unlikely.

If you call Ray Laks Acura at 1-888-729-5257, ask for JR and order my TB kit for your year, it has everything Ben describes above and prices are 25% off.

HTH,
LarryB
 
In your 1995 OBDII car you will get a CEL if you have a misfire. Assuming your CEL is working properly, you can get the code and it will tell you which cylinder:).

If your CEL light comes on before you start the car(bulb test) and you do not have one glowing when the car is running, hard to think it has a mis-fire. Not impossible, but unlikely.

If you call Ray Laks Acura at 1-888-729-5257, ask for JR and order my TB kit for your year, it has everything Ben describes above and prices are 25% off.

HTH,
LarryB

Thanks LarryB! I have already emailed Tim at Ray Laks Acura for the O-Rings and for the set it seems to be around $4 if I read the email correctly..

TB kit meaning ThrottleBody kit or Timing Belt kit? :) Thx man! :tongue:
 
OK, All of this discussion freaked me out. My car has been idling a little rough lately so I pulled all the injectors and sent them off to RC Engineering. $160 including 2nd day shipping. I just followed the link to Dano's instructions. You do have to pull the fuel rails but it's easy. My rear bank coils were a little rusty also so I ordered three new ones from Delray Acura ($77 ea). I decided to rebuid the VTEC solenoids while I'm in there and also do a valve adjustment. Oh yeah, just received red powder coated valve covers and new seals. Hopefully this car will idle smooth as silk when all is done. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
OK, All of this discussion freaked me out. My car has been idling a little rough lately so I pulled all the injectors and sent them off to RC Engineering. $160 including 2nd day shipping. I just followed the link to Dano's instructions. You do have to pull the fuel rails but it's easy. My rear bank coils were a little rusty also so I ordered three new ones from Delray Acura ($77 ea). I decided to rebuid the VTEC solenoids while I'm in there and also do a valve adjustment. Oh yeah, just received red powder coated valve covers and new seals. Hopefully this car will idle smooth as silk when all is done. I'll keep everyone posted.

haha yea man im about to do the same thing... I just can't afford the downtime thats the only thing thats going to suck :rolleyes:
 
haha yea man im about to do the same thing... I just can't afford the downtime thats the only thing thats going to suck

Yeah, my wife just said she wanted to go for a drive because it's a three day weekend comming up:eek: . Crap! Too late now, I'm elbow deep in the engine now. My timing is lame as usual.
 
Yeah, my wife just said she wanted to go for a drive because it's a three day weekend comming up:eek: . Crap! Too late now, I'm elbow deep in the engine now. My timing is lame as usual.

lol well hopefully it shouldn't take u too long to swap these parts out.. But I guess waiting on RC Engineering to get your injectors back is the tough part huh?

What exactly are they doing to them? Rebuilding? can you send me a link? I might just send off mine too ..
 
From Dano's
Qty. 6, 16472-PH7-003 seal ring
Qty. 6, 16473-PD6-000 cushion ring
Qty. 6, 91301-PD6-003 o-ring
Qty. 4, 90428-PD6-003 crush washer

o-ring part no. seem to be different from

Could it be (according to http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray...y5=FUEL+INJECTOR+(1)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no):

002 16472-PH7-003 SEAL RING, INJECTOR 6 1991 NSX
003 16473-P10-A01 RUBBER RING, INJECTOR 6 1991 NSX
or
003 16473-PD6-000 RUBBER RING, INJECTOR 6 1991 NSX
017 91301-PM7-003 O-RING (7.3X2.2) 6 1991 NSX

and

1991-1994

16472-PH7-003
16473-PD6-000
16474-PH7-000
91301-PM7-003

1995+

16472-PH7-003
16473-PD6-000
91302-P0A-A00
91301-PM7-003

:confused:
 
Not really sure man I'm guessing that would be a LarryB question....

Speaking of the man himself thanks for the input! Just ordered a boat load of parts for my NSX including these O-Rings... I hope I got all the parts I need... whew! Hopefully I can have my injectors sent off to RC Engineering while I have all this done since they are somewhat local...

Also finally bought the oem kelyess system hehe :wink:
 
Is this the right part # for these O-Rings for a 1995?

16473-P10-A01 ? Just wanted to make sure

Thanks
 
Is this the right part # for these O-Rings for a 1995?

16473-P10-A01 ? Just wanted to make sure

I just received my injectors back from RC Engineering. The injectors in my 91 are slightly different than your 95 but hopefully this will help. My injectors came back from RC with brand new seals on them (that would be indexes 2, 3 and 20). That would leave index 21 (91302-POA-A00) for you to order. You may want to verify with RC that they don't replace these also (my 91 injectors don't have this seal). My guess is that they sit down in the intake manifold and if that's the case, you'll have to order them.

By the way the injectors look like new. RC provides a before and after performance report for your injectors. A couple of mine were only blowing 233 PSI and one of the spray patterns was defined as "dripping" (Most of then said "good".) Now all of them are 249-250 PSI and "excellent" spray pattern.
 
What was your turn around time from RC? They should get mine tomorrow.

All my rubber seals were still in good shape when removing the injectors, but I am going to replace them anyways.
 
What was your turn around time from RC? They should get mine tomorrow.

All my rubber seals were still in good shape when removing the injectors, but I am going to replace them anyways.

I overnighted mine Wednesday. They got them Thursday and shipped them back on Friday afternoon. I received them Wednesday. (Labor day weekend may have slowed return shipping.)
 
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