You are correct. That is low coverage, but I was only answering the OP's question as to 25k/50k. I myself have 250k/500k.
insurance qoted received. is that too much??
- Thread starter NSXkkk
- Start date
You are correct. That is low coverage, but I was only answering the OP's question as to 25k/50k. I myself have 250k/500k.
You are correct. I thought NSXkkk was referring to getting into an accident where he is at fault, and what coverage would pay for the damage to his NSX. I did not cover the other items that you metion above.
thx at all. this is very helpful.
i am just 23 now. needs another 6 month to be 24. :biggrin:
still a newbie in my life. need more lectures to become independent and support family.
i am just 23 now. needs another 6 month to be 24. :biggrin:
still a newbie in my life. need more lectures to become independent and support family.
I do not have the exact figures as I am away from home but I recently dumped Farmers for State Farm and with the exact same coverages saved over $1500 a year for insuring 3 cars and my home. That is with figuring full coverage on the NSX year round, but in reality with my work, it is insured under fire and theft (like $50 a month) for 6 months at least per year so my savings is actually greater!
Last edited:
o yeah, i have told my dad that stay away from farmers after this year. he already paid 2 cars in June. so we decided to move to another company next year.
my dad's friend ( a lawyer) just told me that dont deal with the company like Mercury. a real crap. be aware on those quotes that are too cheap.
i just ran an online quote with them. 1700 for 12month.
Last edited:
I pay 534 for 6 months on two cars at 25years of age when i got mine. Geico
yeah, but in MN you guys have that crazy no fault law that if you get hit it nobody's fault unless the police see's it. My sister just got hit buy a semi truck at Mall of america for running a red light and it was nobody's fault. The insurance then has to battle it out.
Wawanasa is cheap because they only take drivers with good records. No more than 1 point per 36 months.
Here's some other general advice regarding shopping for auto insurance.
I would suggest gathering information on different companies before you decide to talk to an agent for a specific insurance company; that way you can find out which company(ies) get higher ratings in user surveys before committing your business to one. There are two places where you can find ratings of the various insurance companies based on various factors. One is Consumer Reports, which updates its ratings periodically. Their most recent ratings are in the March 2006 issue; if you aren't a paid subscriber to their internet reports, you can find that issue in your local public library. The other is JD Powers and Associates, whose ratings you can find on their website:
http://www.jdpower.com/insurance/ratings/auto-insurance-provider-ratings
The ratings in the two sources are generally consistent with each other.
Many auto insurance companies offer their policies over the phone and through the mail, and some through independent insurance agents. A few of the biggest, notably State Farm and Allstate, have company agents in offices all over the country, in almost any neighborhood or town. There may or may not be an advantage to dealing personally with your local agent and building a relationship over a period of years; they can often provide advice as well as assist in the event of any kind of dispute, and their availability may be helpful if you have specialized needs. But some of the highest-rated companies (e.g. Amica, USAA) do most of their business primarily via phone and mail, so in-person contact may not be all that important in keeping customers happy.
You can compare rates for a lot of different insurance companies on the websites www.insweb.com and www.insure.com Many insurance companies provide multi-policy discounts if you also purchase your homeowner's or renter's insurance through them as well as your auto insurance. Check pricing on both kinds of policies together and separately, though, as you may or may not want to go for the multi-policy discount if their rates on one of the policies is higher than the competition.
The Consumer Reports issue gives a lot of advice about shopping for insurance. One major factor is price, of course, but it's not the only criterion. You don't necessarily want to choose the lowest price policy if you're going to be unhappy in the event you have to file for a claim.
When shopping for a new insurance policy, you'll find more options and lower rates if you haven't had any (or many) accidents or tickets; if you have, it can be problematic. Companies sometimes cut a lot more slack in dealing with such issues and processing claims for long-term customers. For this reason, it can be beneficial to consider a relationship with an insurance company with an eye towards the long term, rather than switching companies every year or two.
I would suggest gathering information on different companies before you decide to talk to an agent for a specific insurance company; that way you can find out which company(ies) get higher ratings in user surveys before committing your business to one. There are two places where you can find ratings of the various insurance companies based on various factors. One is Consumer Reports, which updates its ratings periodically. Their most recent ratings are in the March 2006 issue; if you aren't a paid subscriber to their internet reports, you can find that issue in your local public library. The other is JD Powers and Associates, whose ratings you can find on their website:
http://www.jdpower.com/insurance/ratings/auto-insurance-provider-ratings
The ratings in the two sources are generally consistent with each other.
Many auto insurance companies offer their policies over the phone and through the mail, and some through independent insurance agents. A few of the biggest, notably State Farm and Allstate, have company agents in offices all over the country, in almost any neighborhood or town. There may or may not be an advantage to dealing personally with your local agent and building a relationship over a period of years; they can often provide advice as well as assist in the event of any kind of dispute, and their availability may be helpful if you have specialized needs. But some of the highest-rated companies (e.g. Amica, USAA) do most of their business primarily via phone and mail, so in-person contact may not be all that important in keeping customers happy.
You can compare rates for a lot of different insurance companies on the websites www.insweb.com and www.insure.com Many insurance companies provide multi-policy discounts if you also purchase your homeowner's or renter's insurance through them as well as your auto insurance. Check pricing on both kinds of policies together and separately, though, as you may or may not want to go for the multi-policy discount if their rates on one of the policies is higher than the competition.
The Consumer Reports issue gives a lot of advice about shopping for insurance. One major factor is price, of course, but it's not the only criterion. You don't necessarily want to choose the lowest price policy if you're going to be unhappy in the event you have to file for a claim.
When shopping for a new insurance policy, you'll find more options and lower rates if you haven't had any (or many) accidents or tickets; if you have, it can be problematic. Companies sometimes cut a lot more slack in dealing with such issues and processing claims for long-term customers. For this reason, it can be beneficial to consider a relationship with an insurance company with an eye towards the long term, rather than switching companies every year or two.
I'm curious why anybody in today's world would drive with 25/50 or even 50/100 liability. It doesn't take much injury at all to easily exceed $25K in medical bills, triple damages for negligence and then pain and suffering which puts just about any claim with real personal injury above 100K. My primary insurer (Allstate) requires certain limits on everything I insure, whether with them or not, because they write my umbrella policy. If it's a single limit policy, must be 500K, otherwise 100/300 is the minimum acceptable policy. IIRC, it doesn't run the policy up that much to increase your liability limits and if you have any assets at all, well worth doing.
i pay 479.00 a month full covg
2 nsx 91-92, 1 g35 02, 1 lexus is300 02, 1 645bmw 05, 1 sport trac 02, 1 x5 bmw 07
i have several discounts....so that seems high to me for 1 car.....
Progressive.....and thats for 10 months---no tickets or wrecks in 6 years
my insurance increased 120 a month when i added 2 nsx....
2 nsx 91-92, 1 g35 02, 1 lexus is300 02, 1 645bmw 05, 1 sport trac 02, 1 x5 bmw 07
i have several discounts....so that seems high to me for 1 car.....
Progressive.....and thats for 10 months---no tickets or wrecks in 6 years
my insurance increased 120 a month when i added 2 nsx....
Last edited:
my nsx is $989 for 12 months and my DD is $1242 for 12 months.
nsx has full coverage and my DD only has liability.
nsx has full coverage and my DD only has liability.
My premium is due in August (I think). I'll let you know what my new rates will be when the renewal notice arrives. I am hoping my premium would drop below $300/6 months.
My current premium (State Farm) is:
97 NSX-T: $303/6 months
Collision: 1k deductible
Liability:Bodily injury: 250k each person/500k each accident
Property damage: 100k
Medical payments: 5k each person
Comprehensive: 1k deductible
Uninsured Motor Vehicle:Bodily injury: 250k each person/500k each accidentProperty damage: 100k
Under 7500 miles per year
My current premium (State Farm) is:
97 NSX-T: $303/6 months
Collision: 1k deductible
Liability:Bodily injury: 250k each person/500k each accident
Property damage: 100k
Medical payments: 5k each person
Comprehensive: 1k deductible
Uninsured Motor Vehicle:Bodily injury: 250k each person/500k each accidentProperty damage: 100k
Under 7500 miles per year
Try Liberty Mutual. If your house is also insured by them, it would be even cheaper.
My house is insured by Liberty Mutual. My NSX has a full coverage $1000 deductible, also as a 2nd car and it is ONLY $350/yr.
Hope it helps.
I think I need to start shopping around for insurance. I'm paying $1,065/yr with USAA and I have a multicar car discount for a single driver, no tickets or claims for seven years.
300,000/500,000 $173.35
Property Damage 50,000 $57.16
Uninsured Motorists Bodily Injury 300,000/500,000 $93.30
Personal Injury Protection 10,000 $54.30
Medical Payments 5,000 $16.66
Comprehensive Deductible 1,000 $40.33
Collision Deductible 1,000 $86.32
Towing & Labor Coverage Selected $6.00
Statutory Charges Specific to your location $5.26
FHCF Emergency Assessment $5.26
Vehicle Subtotal including Statutory Charges $532.68/6mo's
300,000/500,000 $173.35
Property Damage 50,000 $57.16
Uninsured Motorists Bodily Injury 300,000/500,000 $93.30
Personal Injury Protection 10,000 $54.30
Medical Payments 5,000 $16.66
Comprehensive Deductible 1,000 $40.33
Collision Deductible 1,000 $86.32
Towing & Labor Coverage Selected $6.00
Statutory Charges Specific to your location $5.26
FHCF Emergency Assessment $5.26
Vehicle Subtotal including Statutory Charges $532.68/6mo's
Last edited:
Something sounds off, I'm 25..I live in Honolulu and have state farms and I pay 375 per 6 months for 1000 deductable. 
You are right. I forgot that I get a refund dividend check on my insurance each year so my actual policy price is less than stated. I've had them for 20 years with no problems at all. I'm going to stick with what I have and not worry if I'm paying $100 more than someone with a Joe Schmoe insurance.
Quick question, can normal civilians without military background receive insurance coverage from USAA? I looked on their webpage and it indicates membership is availabe for either former or active military, or children of already existing USAA members.
ok, guys, my insurance cost is just kicking my ass. 2500 for a year. gosh. making me broken soon since i am only 23.
That is correct.
I know that civillians can be members of usaa bank.
My NSX is $60 a month with USAA.
Maybe the NSX is not the best car for you. If you can't afford the insurance, you probably would have trouble affording scheduled maintenance or typical repairs like the clutch replacement.
Have you already bought the NSX? Most people research the costs of ownership before they actually buy one, and insurance is certainly one of those costs.
Totally Agree
Similar threads
