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Many thanks! Regarding the V3, I love the ride quality on this (the NSX) application. No harshness at all.
Magnum Opus...My Quest for Driving Perfection (1993 Coupe Build).
- Thread starter DeHaldaswerth
- Start date
Super excited about your build. We have similar car taste (675lt, nsx ,s2000, few Porsches gt and etc). I am on my first nsx and I’m curious for your build what you are doing for power? I’m thinking of keeping it around 320-330 crank hp. Since you have owned so many cars would you recommend itb or just stay bolts on?
Super curious on what is your top three drivers cars you have owned as well?
Super curious on what is your top three drivers cars you have owned as well?
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Regarding power, for the moment, I've opted to do only headers and short gears, and then do every single thing I can to reduce the weight of the car. I do this because I love the NA responsiveness of the engine in "stock" form. However, I will admit to an interest in Science of Speed's supercharger. It's tempting and I'm told it's a huge step forward.
Top three driver's cars. Wow, that is such an interesting question. I'll try to give a straight up answer without a bunch of reasoning. My opinion is based entirely on the confidence I feel (or felt) driving canyon roads, which is the ultimate and highest use of a sports car, IMO. If we were talking about top three cars to take to cars and coffee, or top three cars to take to the track, or top three cars for VMAX runs, the answers would be much different.
Greatest Driver's Car of All time: NSX (Pictured: My former Zanardi and my former 2002 Targa. (Ford GT is photo bombing)).
Second Runner Up: McLaren 675LT (Pictured: My former 675LT at the Bonneville Salt Flats).
Third Runner Up: My former Porsche GT4
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Um...Can We Talk About Your Weight?
If ever there was a be-all, cure-all, end-all performance enhancer for a sports cars, that works every single time, it's gotta be adding lightness. This is true for acceleration, throttle response, braking response and cornering. Everything that a true sports car company does (think Porsche, not Tesla) when they build a car is a trade-off for weight. Sadly, cars have become progressively heavier as safety requirements have become more strict.
So, for my NSX build, I obviously have made most decisions with an eye on shedding weight. That's nothing new in the NSX world, as you all know. The weight reduction spreadsheet here on Prime has been invaluable to me, and the collective lore here is truly breathtaking. The following posts will be devoted mostly to really basic weight reduction efforts. Most of this will break very little new ground, but I have two things up my sleeve (presently being manufactured) that ought to change the game. I will give all the details of the items of secret sauce once they are successfully on the car.
Okay, the first no brainer was to install Comptech headers. The beauty of this is that it gets rid of the cast and very restrictive factory manifolds, which adds both hp and lightness. What's not to love? Sadly, there are few other such simple ways to simultaneously lose weight and add hp. I found the headers here on Prime, then sent them out for professional coating before installation.
Next, (just in case you've just emerged from a decade-long coma) you gotta get rid of the spare tire and mount, then lose the boat anchor battery. I chose the Antigravity ATX20 with the very tasty GREYMRKT battery mount. 20 minutes later, and with virtually zero mecanical skills, you've shed a ton of poundage. (I'm too lazy to look up the spreadsheet). Talk about low hanging fruit! I've had really good luck with the Antigravity battery line in many of my other cars, and they are laughably light. Like picking up a box of matches. Cool stuff, and the jump start feature really does work.
Talk about boat anchors...
Ahh... exhaust goodies. Not sure these add hp, but boy are they great weight reduction devices. Pride high flow cats and ultra light titanium exhaust. Prodigious weight reduction.
Here's the full system installed. Frankly, it's a little loud but it's a compromise I'm happy to make given the beneficial effects of the added lightness. More to follow...I'm just getting started.
If ever there was a be-all, cure-all, end-all performance enhancer for a sports cars, that works every single time, it's gotta be adding lightness. This is true for acceleration, throttle response, braking response and cornering. Everything that a true sports car company does (think Porsche, not Tesla) when they build a car is a trade-off for weight. Sadly, cars have become progressively heavier as safety requirements have become more strict.
So, for my NSX build, I obviously have made most decisions with an eye on shedding weight. That's nothing new in the NSX world, as you all know. The weight reduction spreadsheet here on Prime has been invaluable to me, and the collective lore here is truly breathtaking. The following posts will be devoted mostly to really basic weight reduction efforts. Most of this will break very little new ground, but I have two things up my sleeve (presently being manufactured) that ought to change the game. I will give all the details of the items of secret sauce once they are successfully on the car.
Okay, the first no brainer was to install Comptech headers. The beauty of this is that it gets rid of the cast and very restrictive factory manifolds, which adds both hp and lightness. What's not to love? Sadly, there are few other such simple ways to simultaneously lose weight and add hp. I found the headers here on Prime, then sent them out for professional coating before installation.
Next, (just in case you've just emerged from a decade-long coma) you gotta get rid of the spare tire and mount, then lose the boat anchor battery. I chose the Antigravity ATX20 with the very tasty GREYMRKT battery mount. 20 minutes later, and with virtually zero mecanical skills, you've shed a ton of poundage. (I'm too lazy to look up the spreadsheet). Talk about low hanging fruit! I've had really good luck with the Antigravity battery line in many of my other cars, and they are laughably light. Like picking up a box of matches. Cool stuff, and the jump start feature really does work.
Talk about boat anchors...
Ahh... exhaust goodies. Not sure these add hp, but boy are they great weight reduction devices. Pride high flow cats and ultra light titanium exhaust. Prodigious weight reduction.
Here's the full system installed. Frankly, it's a little loud but it's a compromise I'm happy to make given the beneficial effects of the added lightness. More to follow...I'm just getting started.
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You had me at "lightest set of 17/18 wheels that have ever been installed on an NSX" & the anticipation is killing me awaiting the reveal. Impressive weight savings so far!
How much are you prioritizing weight vs. aesthetics? That GREYMRKT battery mount is adorable, but over a pound heavier than a 3D printed battery bracket and original J-rods. Or go even farther and throw aesthetics to the wind? - Heavy-duty reusable zip ties through appropriately drilled holes in the tray would shed the remaining 0.3 lb lb if you're only affixing a ~4 lb ATX24 or an ATX30. Or go all the way? I suspect it would be not much fabrication to replace the 4.6 lb battery and spare tire tray/support (60500-SL0-020) with something ~4 lbs lighter since the spare tire support is also not needed. A piece of flat carbon sheet ~24" x 12" ~1/2 lb? Might only need to be as large as the battery and mount at 2 points with only a 4 lb battery for ~10" x 6". You would need the small aluminum bar to hold the plastic undertray (Under cover set plate, 60535-SL0-000) that is normally used with the 1997+ battery undertray, or make your own from a 12" bar of carbon or CRP, the aluminum is way over engineered.
You could have a tray, ties, AND a battery that is lighter than just the OEM tray and bar, effectively a negative battery weight - actual antigravity!
How much are you prioritizing weight vs. aesthetics? That GREYMRKT battery mount is adorable, but over a pound heavier than a 3D printed battery bracket and original J-rods. Or go even farther and throw aesthetics to the wind? - Heavy-duty reusable zip ties through appropriately drilled holes in the tray would shed the remaining 0.3 lb lb if you're only affixing a ~4 lb ATX24 or an ATX30. Or go all the way? I suspect it would be not much fabrication to replace the 4.6 lb battery and spare tire tray/support (60500-SL0-020) with something ~4 lbs lighter since the spare tire support is also not needed. A piece of flat carbon sheet ~24" x 12" ~1/2 lb? Might only need to be as large as the battery and mount at 2 points with only a 4 lb battery for ~10" x 6". You would need the small aluminum bar to hold the plastic undertray (Under cover set plate, 60535-SL0-000) that is normally used with the 1997+ battery undertray, or make your own from a 12" bar of carbon or CRP, the aluminum is way over engineered.
You could have a tray, ties, AND a battery that is lighter than just the OEM tray and bar, effectively a negative battery weight - actual antigravity!
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I like your thought process; I honestly didn't give much thought to the weight of the GREYMRKT mount, but there's no denying that the little things add up. I think your ideas are brilliant. LOL at your word choice in naming it adorable.
When you mention aesthetics vs. weight loss, it brings up something that I've been struggling with for the last few months: the pros and cons of a 2002+ headlight conversion. This would save major weight, but I love the flip up headlights. As to cost per pound, it would be extravagant, since I could only live with 100% OEM parts. So I guess it comes down to which I prioritize most, aesthetics or performance, and where I decide to draw the line. Sometimes I try to negotiate with myself: "Well, if I can find some creative ways to take weight out of other areas, then I can keep my flip up lights." But then I remind myself "Yea, but after you've done all that, you could go lighter still by doing the 2002+ conversion."
Hmm....
Keeping the passenger seat? What a boat anchor! We're trying to reduce weight here! Next you'll want to reinstall the passenger door...
In fairness, it's always a compromise between weight loss and convenience. I went with the ATX30 myself, even though it is 6 lbs, for a little more reserve with cooler Canadian weather. Works great! Still contemplating a carbon battery plate instead of the stock 97+ plate. And I can't seem to dump my trunk mat, which would lose 2 lbs as well. But with a weight around 3000 lbs, every lb is only 0.03%. You have to lose 30 lbs for 1%.
But losing the pop-ups? Don't do it!
Sorry for hijacking the thread. Now back our regularly scheduled programming...
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KEEP THE POPUPS!!!!
Lol but seriously, the 02+ conversion is a MAJOR undertaking and the car will be down for months. Plus, most of the weight comes off the front end, which actually is not that great for the balance of the car, especially since you've already removed the spare tire and heavy battery. I would, however, strongly recommend CF or FRP bumper beams. They reduce as much weight as the 02+ conversion and make a huge difference in the polar moment of the car. ATR makes a really nice set. Besides, pop-ups rule!
I also meticulously pulled over 300 lbs out of my NSX and it makes the most difference of any "mod," so I love your attitude here. Another place to find lightness is to use CF B-pillars and side scoops and have them painted. I think the total reduction is over 10 lbs. You could follow the Type-S plan as well- that's almost 100 lbs of reduction in the factory trim. You have a beautiful NSX with very low miles, refreshing it to a Type-S style weight would make it an incredible NSX to drive.
I'd take a hard look at the seats. I was able to handle @MITA Motorsports seats at NSXPO and you can lift them with one finger. Marc is making them in all styles and they have all the safety testing too. If they were available when I did my refresh, I would have used them. You'll save 40 lbs+ easy and they look AMAZING!
Lol but seriously, the 02+ conversion is a MAJOR undertaking and the car will be down for months. Plus, most of the weight comes off the front end, which actually is not that great for the balance of the car, especially since you've already removed the spare tire and heavy battery. I would, however, strongly recommend CF or FRP bumper beams. They reduce as much weight as the 02+ conversion and make a huge difference in the polar moment of the car. ATR makes a really nice set. Besides, pop-ups rule!
I also meticulously pulled over 300 lbs out of my NSX and it makes the most difference of any "mod," so I love your attitude here. Another place to find lightness is to use CF B-pillars and side scoops and have them painted. I think the total reduction is over 10 lbs. You could follow the Type-S plan as well- that's almost 100 lbs of reduction in the factory trim. You have a beautiful NSX with very low miles, refreshing it to a Type-S style weight would make it an incredible NSX to drive.
I'd take a hard look at the seats. I was able to handle @MITA Motorsports seats at NSXPO and you can lift them with one finger. Marc is making them in all styles and they have all the safety testing too. If they were available when I did my refresh, I would have used them. You'll save 40 lbs+ easy and they look AMAZING!
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Roger that on the popups. Love 'em, and I prefer the profile and shape of the early front bumper too.
As you might expect, I DID INDEED decide to go with the FRP bumper beams from Garage Kite, courtesy of Mita. It's just such an easy and invisible way to shed MAJOR poundage.
The project itself is not difficult, just time consuming with lots of fasteners and details. Like anything else, once you've done it that first time, it's not so scary.
The beams are incredibly light. The front assembly is basically unbolt and bolt back in.
With the front bumper off, it was an ideal time to install the NSX-R upper chassis reinforcement. Yes, it's a little weight back in, but a very worthwhile trade-off.
For the rear bumper beam, the factory piece had an elevated platform which supports the upper edge of the license plate. It's spot welded to the OEM steel beam, so there's no getting it off without damage. The FRP beam has no such provision. So, I bought a piece of 1" square aluminum from Home Despot and, using my drill press, drilled an access hole on the outer surface. Through the hole, I then drilled a 1/8 hole. I used two nutserts on the hollow FRP, I then threaded a machine bolt through the aluminum piece, fastening it to the nutserts in the FRP. The newly installed aluminum piece makes a perfect elevated piece into which the top two holes of the license plate can now be fastened. You can use self-tapping screws or use nutuserts with machine screws to fasten the plate.
While I was at it, I decided to remove the wipers and the wiper motor and reservoir. I live in an arid climate, and the weight savings afforded by removing the wipers and motor is a no-brainer. I realize that many of you can't do this given your climate. The removal of the wiper motor is, frankly, a pain in the rump. The bottom garnish of the windshield has to come off, which means the little yellow clips that fasten it all had to be replaced (after thirty years, they had become brittle). However, Once it was done I felt all warm and fuzzy to have that weight removed from so high up on the car. It also gave me a chance to detail all that stuff that no-one will ever see.
As you might expect, I DID INDEED decide to go with the FRP bumper beams from Garage Kite, courtesy of Mita. It's just such an easy and invisible way to shed MAJOR poundage.
The project itself is not difficult, just time consuming with lots of fasteners and details. Like anything else, once you've done it that first time, it's not so scary.
The beams are incredibly light. The front assembly is basically unbolt and bolt back in.
With the front bumper off, it was an ideal time to install the NSX-R upper chassis reinforcement. Yes, it's a little weight back in, but a very worthwhile trade-off.
For the rear bumper beam, the factory piece had an elevated platform which supports the upper edge of the license plate. It's spot welded to the OEM steel beam, so there's no getting it off without damage. The FRP beam has no such provision. So, I bought a piece of 1" square aluminum from Home Despot and, using my drill press, drilled an access hole on the outer surface. Through the hole, I then drilled a 1/8 hole. I used two nutserts on the hollow FRP, I then threaded a machine bolt through the aluminum piece, fastening it to the nutserts in the FRP. The newly installed aluminum piece makes a perfect elevated piece into which the top two holes of the license plate can now be fastened. You can use self-tapping screws or use nutuserts with machine screws to fasten the plate.
While I was at it, I decided to remove the wipers and the wiper motor and reservoir. I live in an arid climate, and the weight savings afforded by removing the wipers and motor is a no-brainer. I realize that many of you can't do this given your climate. The removal of the wiper motor is, frankly, a pain in the rump. The bottom garnish of the windshield has to come off, which means the little yellow clips that fasten it all had to be replaced (after thirty years, they had become brittle). However, Once it was done I felt all warm and fuzzy to have that weight removed from so high up on the car. It also gave me a chance to detail all that stuff that no-one will ever see.
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The sharp-eyed among you will also see that I yanked out the tow hook and tie-down plates. Also pulled them out of the rear as well. More low-hanging fruit in the weight reduction battle. It all adds up.
Nice. I did the same thing (front tie downs) and also have the Kite beams- huge difference. There might be a refresh tag in your future...
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I was really surprised when I tried to tote both the steel beams down to the basement for storage. Dead weight for sure! And even worse hanging off the ends of the car...It’s amazing the difference those bumper beams make. You almost can’t believe it until you pick them up before and after. The bumpers definitely go back on a hell of a lot easier than they come off.
I’m going to be 100% honest driving it before and after I couldn’t really feel a difference at all, won’t be taking it to the track again till next year so we will see…but the new tires are probably going to make the biggest difference
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I Cleaned My Bottom and Now I Feel So Much Better
So, while we are on the subject of weight reduction, allow me a momentary side bar. I have no idea how much all that undercoating on the car weights, but I know for sure that it's nasty and ugly. I therefore decided that I had no choice but to waste a bunch of money on having it all dry ice blasted. Behold the results:
So, while we are on the subject of weight reduction, allow me a momentary side bar. I have no idea how much all that undercoating on the car weights, but I know for sure that it's nasty and ugly. I therefore decided that I had no choice but to waste a bunch of money on having it all dry ice blasted. Behold the results:
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While certainly therapeutic, it ended up being quite expensive. Probably not something I would recommend...it would be much more cost effective to do it the old fashion way: elbow grease and WD-40. Regardless, it sure looks nice.
Any guesses how much all that undercoating weighs? I have no idea...
Any guesses how much all that undercoating weighs? I have no idea...
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Rollin...in my 3.0...
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docjohn, since you rightfully reminded us of one of the towering artistic achievements of the 90's (Mr. Van Winkle's staggeringly beautiful and deeply philosophical Ice Ice Baby), I feel it appropriate to reference two other major triumphs that came out of that era:
Now I'm gonna get out that cassette. Then I'm gonna stop, collaborate, and listen. Pure poetry.
Now I'm gonna get out that cassette. Then I'm gonna stop, collaborate, and listen. Pure poetry.
This stance looks amazing! Curious, what are the specs on the wheels; diameter and width?I'm a big believer in the idiom that form follows function. One of the qualities of every truly cool looking car is that it effectively telegraphs its capabilities visually. (Case in point: Ferrari 250 GTO). The compromises that a manufacturer must make for a mass produced car often prevent them from doing everything they'd like to do in this regard... and that's why they invented concept cars. It's also why we all start fiddling with our cars when we get them: we can make changes in the aftermarket that the manufacturer cannot. Case in point: STANCE. (Which I define as ride height, wheel offset and camber). That will be today's fun topic.
So, the first thing I wanted to do when I got the car off the transporter was to remove the 4" lift kit installed in Tochigi.
View attachment 194628
I'm a fan of KW Suspension, but I admit that I've not tried anything else on my cars. This will be the fifth set of KWs I've installed (Ford GT, Porsche 993, NSX twice), and in every case I've been totally happy with the outcome. Not wanting to mess with something that I know works, I immediately bought a new set of V3s for the car. They are SIGNIFICANTLY lighter than the factory shocks, which will be a recurring theme throughout this build.
View attachment 194627
Installation is pretty straight forward, meaning that for me it took me five times as much time as it would take you. An extra set of hands is helpful in maniuplating the control arms for the install. Ride height is, of course, fully adjustable with the threaded collars under the spring perches.
View attachment 194629
View attachment 194630
I'll admit that I favor low ride height. The translation for that is that I consider the oem front spoiler to be a wear item
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Ahh...just like pulling a splinter out. The lower CG is a huge, real world performance plus, and now the car looks righteous, even with those fat fives on it. The first tiny mod is done, and I'm already feeling like a winner. The car drives impeccably. Love those KWs. No rubbing even at this ride height. I've got spacers on the wheels in these photos, which I'm not a huge fan of. Next stop: wheels with the proper offsets. Stay tuned.
