DOT 4 vs. "SuperBlue" for HDPE's

[Alan C.]

Maybe the NSX is a different animal but I'll continue to indulge myself on this one. However, you have convinced me to ry the 15/16 combo on the track:biggrin:

Subject change, what's a decent time for a stock NSX at Putnam. I know you have been there several times.

 

[nsxtasy]

what's a decent time for a stock NSX at Putnam. I know you have been there several times.

I have no idea. I don't time my laps. But I'm sure my last lap there was a lot slower than all of my previous ones (since that's when my engine died)...

 

[Alan C.]

Sorry to hear about the engine. Sounds like you had put a lot of rack miles on it. What was the milage when it died? Cause?
Alan

 

[nsx2tall]

Maybe the NSX is a different animal but I'll continue to indulge myself on this one. However, you have convinced me to ry the 15/16 combo on the track:biggrin:

Subject change, what's a decent time for a stock NSX at Putnam. I know you have been there several times.

I'm interested in what your lap times were? For my first time at Putnam in a stock STi I had a few laps at 1:28 and one at 1:27 (with the help of Steve Schardt as an instructor). I know the folks I was with were running 1:24's or so (944 and Integra). Another STi in my group probably had me by 5 seconds a lap though.

 

[1BADNSX]

I'm interested in what your lap times were? For my first time at Putnam in a stock STi I had a few laps at 1:28 and one at 1:27 (with the help of Steve Schardt as an instructor). I know the folks I was with were running 1:24's or so (944 and Integra). Another STi in my group probably had me by 5 seconds a lap though.

I can give you some rough ideas, but that’s a tough question due to levels of prep and different tires. My best lap in a stock-class E36 M3 with Hoosiers was a 1:20.3 at Putnam. My 91 NSX with Dunlop SP8000’s (tires that arean't not as good as stock) wasn’t as good and I don’t remember exactly, but 1:25 rings a bell. A stock NSX with the stock Yoko’s would probably bring that down to 1:24’s.

Bob

 

[Alan C.]

1BADNSX wrote:

My best lap in a stock-class E36 M3 with Hoosiers was a 1:20.3 at Putnam.

Bob, That's a pretty good time. I turned a best of 1:20.5 in an '02' 996 on RA1's. The E36 is a great track car.

For those of you that have not been to Putnam with the WheelSource/ForgeLine people you should give it a try. The Schardt's are a great group of people to deal with and they put on an excellent DE.

 

[nsx2tall]

1BADNSX wrote:

For those of you that have not been to Putnam with the WheelSource/ForgeLine people you should give it a try. The Schardt's are a great group of people to deal with and they put on an excellent DE.

+1

and don't forget your Motul [got to get back on thread]:biggrin:

 

[NSXDreamer2]

I don't get some of the comments here, when the fluid absorbed moisture, it effectively bringing down the boiling temp, right?
Well, if your brake system still cools enough that the fluid not even reaching the specific boiling temp.. Then you won't see brunt fluid, right?? That means, the fluid is all good for your usage, who cares if the fluid is not at 596 degree anymore??

I had been based on the color of the fluid and if there's any bubble in the system. For me, after a track day, if it comes out clean and no bubble, that means the fluid is still good. Like 2slow2speed's post, I had experienced a lot of burnt fluid when I had the stock one piece rotors. As soon as I got my 2 pieces front rotors, I had not ever experienced any burnt fluid. I had never track my nsx in CA, my local track had long straights and never gets hotter than 100 degree track temp. So I haven't get to use big brakes kit yet

 

[nsx2tall]

I don't get some of the comments here, when the fluid absorbed moisture, it effectively bringing down the boiling temp, right?
Well, if your brake system still cools enough that the fluid not even reaching the specific boiling temp.. Then you won't see brunt fluid, right?? That means, the fluid is all good for your usage, who cares if the fluid is not at 596 degree anymore??

I had been based on the color of the fluid and if there's any bubble in the system. For me, after a track day, if it comes out clean and no bubble, that means the fluid is still good. Like 2slow2speed's post, I had experienced a lot of burnt fluid when I had the stock one piece rotors. As soon as I got my 2 pieces front rotors, I had not ever experienced any burnt fluid. I had never track my nsx in CA, my local track had long straights and never gets hotter than 100 degree track temp. So I haven't get to use big brakes kit yet

I'm not sure I would depend on the color/bubbles alone to determine if you should bleed your brakes (though if it is brown and bubbly, I think it's safe to say it's time to change ). But you have pointed out something important with the rotors. The fluid absorbs heat from the pad/rotor friction. There are ways to minimize that heat transfer and prevent your fluid from reaching or even coming near boiling points (whether it is 350 or 600 degrees). With good rotors and cooling, you should be less concerned about the hygroscopic properties of performance brake fluid and more concerned about why you're not carrying enough speed through the turns.:biggrin:

 

[Alan C.]

Good points on heat transfer. I knew one person that made titanium pistons for the Big Red calipers on his 911. Couple that with a titanium insert for the pad/piston interface and one could reduce heat transfer.

 

[Peter Mills]

I don't get some of the comments here, when the fluid absorbed moisture, it effectively bringing down the boiling temp, right?
Well, if your brake system still cools enough that the fluid not even reaching the specific boiling temp.. Then you won't see brunt fluid, right?? That means, the fluid is all good for your usage, who cares if the fluid is not at 596 degree anymore??

I had been based on the color of the fluid and if there's any bubble in the system. For me, after a track day, if it comes out clean and no bubble, that means the fluid is still good. Like 2slow2speed's post, I had experienced a lot of burnt fluid when I had the stock one piece rotors. As soon as I got my 2 pieces front rotors, I had not ever experienced any burnt fluid. I had never track my nsx in CA, my local track had long straights and never gets hotter than 100 degree track temp. So I haven't get to use big brakes kit yet

We are not talking about air temps. Whenever you apply your brakes the rotor temps jump to 300-degrees and higher. The brake fluid in the calipers will absorb this heat and that is when the brake fluid boiling will happen. Brake fluid thermal dyanamics has nothing to do with air temparature.