Disaster....

Gerard,

I wouldn't be concerned about the losses from the nicks, I'd worry about the tolerances and integrity of the lobes.

These units have very close tolerances and it's hard to imagine the whack the internals must have endured.

I personally can't imagine reusing the unit.

-Jim
 
Jimbo said:
Gerard,

I wouldn't be concerned about the losses from the nicks, I'd worry about the tolerances and integrity of the lobes.

These units have very close tolerances and it's hard to imagine the whack the internals must have endured.

I personally can't imagine reusing the unit.

-Jim

Hi Jim,
What do you mean by tolerances? When you unattach the belt, enough air comes through the SC to make the engine run. Even with a reasonable amount of horsepower. What can happen? The unit looks very basic.

Thanks,
Gerard
 
Gerard,

I am not a mechanic, and I don't think I could possibly add to anything that has already been said. I had my engine blow, and had to rebuild it. I've been there, and all I can say is that you have my deepest sympathy and I hope everything works out alright.
 
Here you can see the broken exhaust valve
 

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Gerard,

I have been reading about your adventure but haven't posted anything until now. In the pictures you posted you are showing pulling your NSX+trailer with what appears to be a European Honda Accord Estate (Acura TSX in the US, although not in SW version). How well is your Accord for pulling with your NSX ? I'm asking that because everyone here in the US has recommended me getting a big SUV to pull my car+trailer (about 2 tons)...

thank you for your reply and good luck with the engine !

Alex
 
apapada said:
Gerard,

I have been reading about your adventure but haven't posted anything until now. In the pictures you posted you are showing pulling your NSX+trailer with what appears to be a European Honda Accord Estate (Acura TSX in the US, although not in SW version). How well is your Accord for pulling with your NSX ? I'm asking that because everyone here in the US has recommended me getting a big SUV to pull my car+trailer (about 2 tons)...

thank you for your reply and good luck with the engine !

Alex

Hi Alex,
The Accord does a good job with pulling the NSX+trailer. I can easily cruise with 70mph and accelerating from stand still is no problem. The combination is outstanding stable.
Gerard
 
The problem in Germany is that the Accord (Diesel) is only allowed here to pull 1,500 kilogramms. Trailer + NSX exceeds that. It may be capable to do that without problems but if the police controls you you're out.
 
Not to get off topic, however I am so shocked and amazed at the photos of that Accord pulling a trailer, and also on NSXRacer's website of that "what-ever-it-is" (sorry not up on my Euro-models) pulling his trailer. Here in the states, you can't get away with that. I have never seen a car, or station wagon pulling a car trailer. Only trucks/SUVs seem to pull car trailers here. I bet my wife's 2004 Acura TL has enough power, and it has Brembos in the front, but still if we tried pulling a trailer the cops would have a field day with us!! Plus, you guys have so many diesel choices, you are so lucky over there, I hope you realize it:):):)
 
len3.8 said:
Gerard, you will find metal in the Supercharger, Either the bearing metal form the super charger (doubtful) or Metal from the valve material.. That is why you see the gouges all over the blades of the supercharger. after awhile a piece was larger enough the lodge between the blades of the supercharger, causing it to finally seize.. You can take the metal you find in the Super charger and have it analized if you really want to know where it's from.. I would bet on valve material. The damage was done when the timing belt seized most likely, during reversion, as I have been told, the valve material can work it's way upstream to the supercharger... If your blades on the supercharger were free of damage, and the blades had been sucked up into the housing on the pulley end of the supercharger, it could have been a bearing failure or incorrect lashing of the supercharger when it was assembled. However, everything is pointing to the timing belt jumping and damaging something, valves or otherwise, still giving your car the ability to run, all the while metal was dancing around inside your supercharger until it was able to lodge it and make it seize....
Just my opinion, and best guess.
Len

I concure. It explains the damage throughout the SC blades.
 
Juice said:
I concure. It explains the damage throughout the SC blades.

Both len3.8 and you are right. It wasn't a bearing failure but parts of the exhaust valve that came into the supercharger.
The right valve on the left picture.

I am still looking for the intake valve :(
The left valve on the right picture.
 

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What do you mean by tolerances? When you unattach the belt, enough air comes through the SC to make the engine run. Even with a reasonable amount of horsepower. What can happen? The unit looks very basic.

The clearance between the rotor lobes is very close. Due to the variations in temperature and because of the aluminum material there's also expansion.

My concern is that a loose valve wedging into the lobes would cause a subtle distortion of the lobes. I'd also be worried about small fractures in the aluminum.

Perhaps it would be best to ask Comptech their opinion?

-Jim
 
Jimbo said:
The clearance between the rotor lobes is very close. Due to the variations in temperature and because of the aluminum material there's also expansion.

My concern is that a loose valve wedging into the lobes would cause a subtle distortion of the lobes. I'd also be worried about small fractures in the aluminum.

Perhaps it would be best to ask Comptech their opinion?

-Jim

Thanks Jim for your advice.
I let a mechanic who is specialized in Whipple Superchargers look at my SC. The shop where he is employed can get all the parts for any Whipple SC.

This is the website of Whipple:
www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1162

BTW Look at the prices:)
 
Gerard

What model Whipple is the CTSC?

Can you buy new screws only?

Acutal cost?


Thanks

Drew



BTW: I think your engine is in a world of hurt. Your situation really sucks!
 
drew said:
Gerard

What model Whipple is the CTSC?

Can you buy new screws only?

Acutal cost?


Thanks

Drew



BTW: I think your engine is in a world of hurt. Your situation really sucks!

I don't know what model the CTSC is yet and I don´t know about the costs, but what I am told the Dutch distributor can get any part of any Whipple configuration.
Gerard
 
Finally some good news, I helped Gerard taking out the engine and did some work today on the cylinder head from an old engine.

Also I sandpapered the SC ,cleaned it thouroughly and mounted it together.With a drill i rotated the SC at about 900 revs and the wind is blowing in the garage.

No strange sounds and with the exhaust of the SC closed my drill starts to lose about half of the revs.This means that pressure is being build up ,this takes more energy than my drill can deliver>;) :cool:
 
Now make sure you guys go over everything in the intake path.
That metal gets everywhere... With the tight tolerances of the SC's blades/worms, it will only take a small foreign object to get in the path, then you will have the same resluts again...
I am assuming you guys plan on running the SC after it is put back together... What are you guys going to do about making sure the correct lashing is applied?
 
Cees-Jan said:
Finally some good news, I helped Gerard taking out the engine and did some work today on the cylinder head from an old engine.

Also I sandpapered the SC ,cleaned it thouroughly and mounted it together.With a drill i rotated the SC at about 900 revs and the wind is blowing in the garage.

No strange sounds and with the exhaust of the SC closed my drill starts to lose about half of the revs.This means that pressure is being build up ,this takes more energy than my drill can deliver>;) :cool:

Thanks Cees-Jan,
That is good news:D
I am curious what we'll find in the engine when we open it.
See you tuesday evening. Ill bring you the engine.
Gerard
 

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len3.8 said:
Now make sure you guys go over everything in the intake path.
That metal gets everywhere... With the tight tolerances of the SC's blades/worms, it will only take a small foreign object to get in the path, then you will have the same resluts again...
I am assuming you guys plan on running the SC after it is put back together... What are you guys going to do about making sure the correct lashing is applied?

You dont believe it but I used a high presure water jet which is normally used to spray chemicals in the garden, instead of chemicals I used water and soap, after cleaning spray with wd40 or simular.
 
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