You guys won't believe this. My stereo install.

[TURBO2GO]

Here are a few more photos. I did away with the aperiodic damper because although I was getting stronger mid-bass, I was losing my lowest octave. The problem is my woofer, not the damper idea. Its Qts is just not right for this. So I cut a larger hole in the back of the enclosure. And let it breathe even more into the door. For guys that want more punch, I think the AP damper is a better way to go. It also increases power handling. One thing I have found... YOU NEED A LOT OF POWER. Don't underestimate this. Especially once you EQ, that will start chewing up power FAST. Here are a few more photos. Excuse the silicone mess outside my box, I wanted to make sure it is sealed, and since it's not seen, I didn't spend a lot of time on it.

I put some pad on the front of the baffle to absorb some of the high frequencies, I really don't like how set back the woofer is in the NSX at all. There is a lot of foam under the AC vent plastic, from the factory. This is from Bose to absorb some of the high frequencies. So on any flat baffle you are going to have a lot of sound bouncing around in there before the sound exits the cavity, and therefore, it will not be clean. Extra foam in the cavity is a good idea. Also, I trimmed the excess door panel area behind the grille. You can slightly cut plastic with a blade then cut the hard plastic beneath. This is a good 1/2 to 3/4" of material right in the way of the woofer to your ear. So trim it if you do an install. It has no effect, it is under the grille.

 

[TURBO2GO]

I didn't even touch the vapor barrier. Still factory sealed. I don't see a need. I also think in this case dynamating the door will only add weight and not do a lot for sound. Not when you install an enclosure like I did.

 

[angus]

Can you tell me how you did it? I noticed a factory hole that is grommeted and seems to find ts way into the car that is not used. Anyone know off this?

If you look at the stock boot, you will see.

 

[PHOEN$X]

Can you tell me how you did it? I noticed a factory hole that is grommeted and seems to find ts way into the car that is not used. Anyone know off this?

I've seen an NSX wired that way and it did not look good to me.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Even if I used that hole I wouldn't do it like that. Don't think I'll need it anyway.

 

[syndicate]

Guys, look at the grommet between the door and the car where the wires run through... I dont think its a Molex plug and you can just use a thick zip tie to snake the wires though. Turbo2go, I will be in Boston mid Sept, if you aren't busy, Id love to hear it.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[Caroline-NSX]

TURBO2GO, the idea is a great idea but the finishing i thought could of been better. I guess you didn't really care about the way it look since its gonna be behind the door panels? Anyways, hope it sounds good :smile:

 

[TURBO2GO]

TURBO2GO, the idea is a great idea but the finishing i thought could of been better. I guess you didn't really care about the way it look since its gonna be behind the door panels? Anyways, hope it sounds good :smile:

You mean the screws in the aperiodic chamber? Or the silicone around the next open back version? Or the while silicone job? LOL... yeah it's behind the door, I am pressed for time, and it functions 100%.

You have to understand I am still testing various things. Once I settle on something 100% I will probably clean it up a little. The important thing is that it all fits factory, uses the factory harness, I didn't even remove the vapor liner, and it will sound awesome. That's what counts. You can make it really pretty behind the door but if you have altered the factory fit, it's not good. I have yet to see a 6.5" installation that is tight to the curves of the door. I mean it is SEALED around the woofer.

 

[sylcurt]

A agree that your fit will be terrific, using the OEM speaker boxes...

In terms of a tight seal and nice fit, it is possible though...
The area directly around the hole in the door (Bose speaker box removed of course) has a flat area with no contours about 3/4's of an inch all around in basically a squarish shape...

I made a template of this area, lets call it roughly a 7.0" square out of solid Oak 3/4" thick, it sits perfectly flat against the wall of the inner door (I think if I remember correctly, there was was little area that contours a slight bit on one edge, so I carved that out by hand to get it perfectly flush...I used a very thin foam rubber gasket to get a perfect set to the door.
I made the inner hole slightly smaller than the OEM speaker hole, to keep more strength of my squarish first board,and give more surface area, there was still plenty of clearance for the back part of my speakers, given that they tapered in from the front to back of magnet.

I laminated another oak board, in the more traditional circle shape baffle on to this board after it was attached to the door, shaped with a small protruding area towards the front to mount my tweet on. This had the circle cut out needed to mount the speaker on. Dynamat served as a gasket from speaker to baffle.

Rather than using the full length SOS style mounting board, I just used the immediate area in a "spacer ring" design, but the bottom ring (which was almost square gave me the mount, while the next ring gave me more of the traditional speaker ring look. This also gave me the build out depth I needed to have the Focals clear the window assembly and move it out closer to the grille to avoid as much of the defraction as possible.

Granted, I added weight, by dynamatting the heck out of the immediate area of the OEM speaker box, and area of my trim rings...(I'm not too concerned about slight weight increases-I also did a double layer on the entire cabin floor and outer skin of door sheetmetal from the inside as well, and inner door panel)

Anyway, to your point, maybe a bit crude in comparison to your design but I think it turned out pretty effective, and does mount nice and flush to the door, and little if any ambient vibration.

That being said, if I was doing again, I would look for a set of OEM Bose speaker boxes that I could cut, and copy your idea...very neat and tidy, "factoryish" and much lighter....I honestly never even thought of this approach....I'm really following your set up with curiosity towards the end result.

 

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

Is that hot glue you used in there or is it a type of clear caulk?

I ask because hot glue MAY melt in higher temperature. Ask me how I know...

 

[TURBO2GO]

It's clear silicone. It has a high adhesive quality, flexes with vibration, is durable and easily removable.

 

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

It's clear silicone. It has a high adhesive quality, flexes with vibration, is durable and easily removable.

Thought so. Probably the same stuff I used to seal my vapor barriers.

 

[Russ]

In addition to replacing the speaker, how about replacing the Bose amps inside the housing with something better? There must be a class D amp that's small enough to cannibalize and fit inside the speaker housing. Then you could use the OEM signal and power cabling and it would be a clean retrofit.

 

[TURBO2GO]

In addition to replacing the speaker, how about replacing the Bose amps inside the housing with something better? There must be a class D amp that's small enough to cannibalize and fit inside the speaker housing. Then you could use the OEM signal and power cabling and it would be a clean retrofit.

It's not a good place for an amp. I did think about this. If my other driver shows up (looks like a month wait now), I might wind up keeping the Bose enclosure intact. So I can use every inch of airspace in the cavity. The amp takes up a good chunk of that. Also don't forget, the amp is heavily EQ'ed. It's not just a straight signal. I just don't think having an amp in a door that slams open and shut everyday is the best idea. A central amp is still the better solution.

 

[RYU]

It's not a good place for an amp. I did think about this. If my other driver shows up (looks like a month wait now), I might wind up keeping the Bose enclosure intact. So I can use every inch of airspace in the cavity. The amp takes up a good chunk of that. Also don't forget, the amp is heavily EQ'ed. It's not just a straight signal. I just don't think having an amp in a door that slams open and shut everyday is the best idea. A central amp is still the better solution.

did you decide on a full rewire into thru the doors? 16gauge? Are you running passive x-overs? Will you keep those in the doors? Are you going to remove the OEM wires into the Bose amps or will you piggyback off those for maybe the tweeter source wire?

i'm really curious what you come up in terms of passing thru into the door.

 

[TURBO2GO]

I have decided on a dash location on the tweeters after much testing. You won't believe how much difference 1 inch makes (insert joke here). So I actually don't NEED 4 wires in the door. I also prefer to keep the X-overs inside the car. They aren't exactly weather tight. What I want, honestly, is for no one to ever havce to pull this back out because something failed, even 10 years from now. I had these diffractors that were going in behind the woofer to break up the waves... after some thought, I said to myself at some point this glue will come undone, and the thing will fall and flap in the door. I have basically touched NOTHIING beyond the vapor barrier in the door. I also am not wanting to run new wire because I don't really want to even remove the door boot. I just want to leave it all untouched and factory.

I will run a test on wires like you suggested as I am concerned about a capacitor in the way. Are you sure about this? If the sound is the same, I am going to just use the factory wire and run a new wire for the tweeters.

 

[CL65 Captain]

In addition to replacing the speaker, how about replacing the Bose amps inside the housing with something better? There must be a class D amp that's small enough to cannibalize and fit inside the speaker housing. Then you could use the OEM signal and power cabling and it would be a clean retrofit.

You would have to run power, ground and remote on to the Amp - not feasible using teeny OEM wires. The Bose gets away with it because it's barely producing any power.

 

[bngl3rt]

Updaaaaaaates

 

[angus]

Is that hot glue you used in there or is it a type of clear caulk?

I ask because hot glue MAY melt in higher temperature. Ask me how I know...

You need the high temp hot glue, it's black.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Updaaaaaaates

My new driver just shipped, it was on back order. I will have an update as I try these new drivers and test their responses and do some listening tests.

 

[TURBO2GO]

You need the high temp hot glue, it's black.

Yes, but you also don't like to use glue period, because over time it can crack or simply come undone in an environment with a lot of movement. The silicone has some give and so it tends to last much longer. It also can peel off without issues if you purposely peel it off, without damage. Here it is only holding a screen, so it is the right thing to use.

 

[shawn110975]

Reserved.

Reserved.

nice work I wish I had time to do my NSX like this it needs better sound
great write up Turbo2go

 

[TURBO2GO]

UPDATE: Tried 3 new drivers. Two sucked. This one... Man oh man it's kicking some serious ass in this enclosure. I have to do more testing but my initial response is it was MADE for this enclosure. I can't believe the response I'm getting out of a 4". plus it's now angled perfectly into the car and not firing into the door panel.

 

[TURBO2GO]

This thing has some serious throw guys. I have some air moving in and out of the port.

 

[Caroline-NSX]

This thing has some serious throw guys. I have some air moving in and out of the port.

Looks nice TURBO2GO. I remember you talking about doing some tweeters but any plans for mids :smile:???