You guys won't believe this. My stereo install.

Bumping this thread, as I am interested in getting the best bang for the buck in sound, and I know TURBO2GO is the man for audio (he helped me tremendously with the acoustics of my home theater build).
I recently found out that he had some crazy things happen to him outside of his control, so understand why this hasn't been updated. Just hoping that you might be able to update us, as I am interested in getting P2F's blank CF console and using a hidden volume control (or my iPhone) to control the sound.

Thanks!!

P.S. I wanted to add that I've spent the past two hours reading, as this is the first I've encountered this thread. Unfortunately, most of the pictures are no longer available, so I'm just using my imagination for most of what you said. If you have any photos you could post, that would be greatly appreciated.
 
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The way things have advanced since this thread was first made is stupendous for us with our NSXs. Amp technology makes them tiny and easy to hide.

I've been a big fan of using the passenger footwell for a subwoofer, no matter how good of bass can be achieved from the doors. There's plenty of room down there to glass your own enclosure of buy one from one of the members on here (forget who makes them for sale). I glassed my own for a Kenwood Excelon slim, which was great since it only needed 150wrms.
Not super deep.. even kept the power steering driver where it was;



That's built to go under the carpet specifically, not on top of it and get covered by a mat like some are. If you're willing to go that route, or if you relocate the shiny box, a 10" isn't out of the real of possibilities. All about how you want it to look when you're finished up.

The doors are still up for debate. A super simple set of nice coaxial speakers with a set of mounting plates is easy to fabricate up, and if you go to a local stereo shop, easy to choose from just listening to a few. I wanted simplicity with mine, since I don't have enough free time to experiment with 10 different drivers. I opted for a set of Type R 6.5" coaxials. Components are an option, but the tweeter will require mounting, and I was absolutely not going to cut a hole in my door panel. With the adjustable aiming on the Type R 6.5"s a decent sound stage can be made that way. If you have a lot of free time, experimenting with tweeter placement, or with replacing drivers IN the factory bose enclosure can of course yield good results (like OP was doing, finding what drivers paired well with it, what didn't).

The one big hurdle you'll have to get around is running new speaker wire into the car. Since there 2 thin wires providing signal to the bose amp, 'repurposing' them isn't ideal, so a nice thick speaker wire is recommended. It sucks to do. Truly. I fought with each door for like an hour to run it out the OEM grommet, through the OEM boot, and back into the door via the OEM grommet. If you're planning on taking your doors off for any reason.. run speaker wire while you have the chance. Seriously.

Then you'll deal with amplification. In my system I used a Kenwood 4 ch amp;
http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/amplifiers/kac-m3001/

That little fellow was small enough to (barely) squeeze under the driver's side dash, and made it so everything was enclosed in the cabin (no running wires into the trunk, etc) with the exception of the power wire to the battery. 50w x 2 to the front speakers, and the other 2 channels were bridged for 150w x 1. Perfect power output, IMO, without going too over the top. It's louder than factory and 150wrms of sub in the cabin is solid.

There's plenty of other small amp choices.. These Gladen Pico amps are pricey but phenomenal;
http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-2/

Or even just a lower power 4ch amp for ease of hiding.. but keep in mind only like 90wrms bridged, that ain't a ton of power.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3gxu7in0OGX/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html

Running power wire to the battery is pretty straight forward, there's a nice grommet or two on the passenger side, and using a long poker (I use an old sharpened mast antenna) you'll be set to roll.

Getting signal to the amp isn't bad, either. The factory radio outputs its signal in low-level.. so just tap in and plug straight into the new amp's RCA inputs and you're set. No LOC, no worries about high-level inputs, etc. Can also snag the amp turn on from the factory amp's turn on wire behind the radio, too. And of course with the center console/radio out, there's lots of room to run wires from one side of the car to the other.

Finally, Sound damping is always recommended. It's one step I didn't take, and next summer the doors are coming back apart to track down some rattles.

That's all I can think of for now.

I see you're in Cali. If you're not looking for a DIY job, check out the guys that took care of 94lude's car.. truly professional work.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...stem-Completed-in-My-97-NSX-Full-Walk-Through
 
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Thanks clutch1 for your response! It is very thorough and with good explanations, as well as examples. You definitely sound like you know what you're talking about.
Wow. Andy's build is beautiful! I've heard good things about Simplicity in Sound, so it doesn't surprise me about the fit and finish of his setup.

I think I would explore the options you mentioned, but only after hearing from TURBO2GO, as I am very interested in his setup. Since I'm a couple of miles from Cupertino, I would like to reach out to ky650 and check out Ethan's setup with the speakers installed that Dave recommended. Ky650, please let me know if this is feasible in the near future (and I'm sure bngl3rt would be up to meeting as well).
 
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