You guys won't believe this. My stereo install.
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
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- 25 February 2012
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See, that's why I was thinking of powering it off the factory radio harness... but then you pointed out that it's better for it to share a ground with the amp. Makes sense.
Assuming the RF fits inside the dash and the amp lives in the footwell, the signal from one to the other doesn't have to travel very far...
No. Very short. A good ground point is also easy for both the amp and any processor. Doesn't have to be off the harness.
I have no idea... LOL. I am so busy. I am still trying to produce bass tubes. Not easy having special drivers made and changing designs. Sourcing parts overseas. Off the shelf stuff just isnt what I want.
I'll have some news soon though...
I need to start selling some parts I have collected. It's getting out of control. I have so much invested in this now.
I'll have some news soon though...
I need to start selling some parts I have collected. It's getting out of control. I have so much invested in this now.
- Joined
- 25 February 2012
- Messages
- 2,165
It's about to get very confusing on Prime...
"I think I'm gonna order a TURBO kit"
"Don't you already have a supercharger?"
"No, like the TURBO2GO kit"
"Don't all turbos go?"
"No the STEREO kit from the PRIME MEMBER named TURBO2GO"
Hey Turbo! any updates, need to do my stereo this winter and hoping to go with alot of your suggestions.
eddy
eddy
Hey guys... Yeah I got a batch of new drivers in and am making various things including a subwoofer that is essentially 5 mini bass tubes side by side, a total of 10 drivers. I just haven't been taking photos. I have been experimenting with various tube materials. The better ones tend to weigh a bit more, the lighter ones tend to resonate more.
I haven't had a chance to run the fosgate DSP. It's getting cold. I hardly see my car. I am going to finish testing the speakers and figuring out the crossovers and stuff, will be able to build some systems for those that want them. Two of you have sent me your factory enclosures to build, and I will do those... but I probably won't have the "ultimate" kit which is with the fosgate 360, surround speakers subs and possible transducers til it warms up again.
The all out one will truly be concert hall despite the noisy interior of the NSX. Its going to be able to play LOUD. And it still won't weigh much more than the factory system if at all. My 10-driver subwoofer is 3 pounds lighter than the SWS flat sub nevermind its enclosure and so far it seems to fit at the factory sub location. No removal of the power steering unit. By the way these drivers are not available anywhere, I have the only ones in the U.S. factory made a special request happen for me. Everything is aluminum and neodymium.
I haven't had a chance to run the fosgate DSP. It's getting cold. I hardly see my car. I am going to finish testing the speakers and figuring out the crossovers and stuff, will be able to build some systems for those that want them. Two of you have sent me your factory enclosures to build, and I will do those... but I probably won't have the "ultimate" kit which is with the fosgate 360, surround speakers subs and possible transducers til it warms up again.
The all out one will truly be concert hall despite the noisy interior of the NSX. Its going to be able to play LOUD. And it still won't weigh much more than the factory system if at all. My 10-driver subwoofer is 3 pounds lighter than the SWS flat sub nevermind its enclosure and so far it seems to fit at the factory sub location. No removal of the power steering unit. By the way these drivers are not available anywhere, I have the only ones in the U.S. factory made a special request happen for me. Everything is aluminum and neodymium.
It's a series/parallel mix. I haven't decided on locations yet I have to do in car testing of the subs and see where they sound the best. That'll determine where the electronics go.
- Joined
- 25 February 2012
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Wow, that's some advanced science. You are now thoroughly outside my body of knowledge and in the speaker design twilight zone...
Well my attempt to fit mini bass tubes in the footwell didn't work well. I can only position them one way, and the sound becomes too muffled with the carpet and floor mats. I have shelved this idea. (even if the EPS was removed and a standard 10" flat sub went in there, response is reslly compromised by the carpet and floor mat).
I am going to try the factory sub enclosure with one 3.5 replacement woofer (same size as the bose but higher performance) and see how that sounds. Otherwise, I am going back to dual bass tubes behind the seat headrests or in front and under the seat cushions. The space where the factory sub is does work very well for amplifiers and electronics. I am going to stick to that.
I am going to try the factory sub enclosure with one 3.5 replacement woofer (same size as the bose but higher performance) and see how that sounds. Otherwise, I am going back to dual bass tubes behind the seat headrests or in front and under the seat cushions. The space where the factory sub is does work very well for amplifiers and electronics. I am going to stick to that.
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^or Angus'....I thought his 10" enclosure actually added legroom vs. oem......?
Nothing but I don't like moving the EPS unit. It's a little hack just stuffing it behind the glove. Also the big sub boxes are 26+ pounds with the driver. My tubes are 2. It's also firing into the carpet and floor mat, which I am not fond of. It's probably the way to get the most bass but not the best quality bass. I think both are quality boxes that took hard work to make. Its just for me weight is very important... That location is better suited for invisible electronics.
New is that I've made the factory sub enclosure work with one small subwoofer driver, and although it is not earthshaking loud, it does go lower and deeper with better overall response than the Bose driver. The enclosure is a bit too big but cutting down the internal port length and using a lot of speaker stuffing in the cabinet fixes it. So this sun basically stays factory, bolts right back in, and can be used with an aftermarket amp and not the Bose amp. With this and the speaker enclosures redone, you can just drop everything back in OEM but all the speakers are way upgraded, and they can be and need to be run with an aftermarket amp. They utilize the factory wires and connectors.
This project has slowed down because its winter now and I had to put the car away so everything I do has to be done on my bench. Wish I could do more but I think I'm going to be limited until march/April when I can get the car back out again.
This project has slowed down because its winter now and I had to put the car away so everything I do has to be done on my bench. Wish I could do more but I think I'm going to be limited until march/April when I can get the car back out again.
Yes. But I may come up with a passive crossover and tweets that can be plug and play for the doors. People seem to like plug and play. Less install work.
Music to my ears!
That is, that you were able to use the stock enclosure and are considering passive xovers with tweets... Keep us updated.
That is, that you were able to use the stock enclosure and are considering passive xovers with tweets... Keep us updated.
Have you had a chance to play with the Kicker Front Row? I was thinking of changing out an crappy headunit in my other car (Volvo). I was thinking of using either my Iphone5 (with a standard car mount) or a Nexus7 (custom fitted to the stereo DD area) out to the Kicker Front Row, then out to a Rockford Fosgate Punch 4ch amp out to Factory speakers, or possibly replace them if the sound was not good enough. Then possibly adding a Punch Mono amp with a small sub in the trunk. Going through ideas now and this would probably sound excellent (compared to the crap system I have now) and would still be less expensive than most all inclusive DD radios out there.
I'll admit my knowledge of sound and electronics is limited eventhough I should know a lot more.
I'll admit my knowledge of sound and electronics is limited eventhough I should know a lot more.
Hi Dave,
I read through the thread a few times to make sure I understood what you are doing as a whole package.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Iphone,Android, etc device
->
JL Audio CL-RLC Volume Control
->
RF 360.3 Sound Processor
->
JL 6-channel amp
->
Custom redesigned mids in door enclosures + relocated tweeters + custom redesigned subwoofer or bass tubes.
Does that sound correct?
If you were still using the Front Row, how would you split the stereo sound input to 4channels? What would you use for an equalizer?
I was thinking on using the Front Row with an equilizer, something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6655_Clarion-EQS746.html
to control volume and adjusting sound. I'm not too excited about having all of these controls flush mounted in the dash but could learn to live with it I guess.
I read through the thread a few times to make sure I understood what you are doing as a whole package.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Iphone,Android, etc device
->
JL Audio CL-RLC Volume Control
->
RF 360.3 Sound Processor
->
JL 6-channel amp
->
Custom redesigned mids in door enclosures + relocated tweeters + custom redesigned subwoofer or bass tubes.
Does that sound correct?
If you were still using the Front Row, how would you split the stereo sound input to 4channels? What would you use for an equalizer?
I was thinking on using the Front Row with an equilizer, something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6655_Clarion-EQS746.html
to control volume and adjusting sound. I'm not too excited about having all of these controls flush mounted in the dash but could learn to live with it I guess.
That's the unit I have. Only issue is if you hide it like me you have to either 1. Pick up your phone and adjust the volume or 2. Reach where ever it's hidden and adjust the main volume from there.
All you need is a source, that equalizer/line output driver "this is key if you run from a 3.5 jack", amp, and components. Done. If you want to get fancy then you can ad a belkin aircast setup, or an volume controller mounted in a hidden easy accessible spot.
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