02#154, I appreciate the feedback. I'm not sure what to tell you on the tweeters. While you want things in a custom fabricated enclosure or don't care about cutting your door, not everyone else feels the same. I'm trying to make something that any owner can install, not take to a custom shop for fabrication. I'm trying not to alter the vehicle. So the best I could do for you is give you a ballpark of where to set your xover settings and time delays with a different tweeter.
As far as frequency response, you have to understand that the proper way to do things is to set them up flat and correct to start with, then to EQ from there. Otherwise it's just haphazard and random. I don't care if someone EQ's to whatever their liking the only issue is these are very small high excursion drivers and can be damaged if one is not careful with EQ'ing rather easily. So I'd just be worried about that. The Bose system, any bose system, only allows 6db of cut or gain in your bass and treble controls. Your typical car stereo control is 12, some EQ's can do 18 or even more. If you put 18db of gain (boost) at something like a 45hz bass frequency, you are sure to damage a 3-4" woofer. Bose does that for 2 reasons: protect their drivers and because they know any more than that and you are way beyond natural hearing differences you are now seriously compromising the sound quality.
So you can still EQ, but you'd be EQ'ing a system that's already EQed to a certain extent in the bass region. You have to be aware of that.
What's actually more important is not the fact that there are large differences in what you are I may prefer for tonality... That's actually a fairly small variance generally. What's more important is each song is mastered differently at the recording studio, and those transfers to CD or mp3 are often poor... And the biggest area you hear it in is bass. Some songs will sound too boomy and some sound thin and weak. Most all car stereo systems can only fix this with a bass or treble control, but what you really need is a seperate subwoofer gain control. Something provided by a knob that's put in a handy place in anything I'd put together... available with many aftermarket crossovers and the one I'm considering most.
Honestly, the whole "concern" that I might tune a system for reference and flat and it may sound "dull" to some people is just a total non-issue. I never said I'm tuning for a reference flat response. I don't even have an EQ in the front row. I'm "tuning" by correct placement, crossover points, enclosure design, and time alignment and letting the drivers do what they do. If you want to EQ the system, have at it.... Obviously I can't take responsibility for damage. Up to a certain point it's fine and if someone goes overboard and damages a driver it's their baby. Lucky thing is these drivers are not expensive.
As far as frequency response, you have to understand that the proper way to do things is to set them up flat and correct to start with, then to EQ from there. Otherwise it's just haphazard and random. I don't care if someone EQ's to whatever their liking the only issue is these are very small high excursion drivers and can be damaged if one is not careful with EQ'ing rather easily. So I'd just be worried about that. The Bose system, any bose system, only allows 6db of cut or gain in your bass and treble controls. Your typical car stereo control is 12, some EQ's can do 18 or even more. If you put 18db of gain (boost) at something like a 45hz bass frequency, you are sure to damage a 3-4" woofer. Bose does that for 2 reasons: protect their drivers and because they know any more than that and you are way beyond natural hearing differences you are now seriously compromising the sound quality.
So you can still EQ, but you'd be EQ'ing a system that's already EQed to a certain extent in the bass region. You have to be aware of that.
What's actually more important is not the fact that there are large differences in what you are I may prefer for tonality... That's actually a fairly small variance generally. What's more important is each song is mastered differently at the recording studio, and those transfers to CD or mp3 are often poor... And the biggest area you hear it in is bass. Some songs will sound too boomy and some sound thin and weak. Most all car stereo systems can only fix this with a bass or treble control, but what you really need is a seperate subwoofer gain control. Something provided by a knob that's put in a handy place in anything I'd put together... available with many aftermarket crossovers and the one I'm considering most.
Honestly, the whole "concern" that I might tune a system for reference and flat and it may sound "dull" to some people is just a total non-issue. I never said I'm tuning for a reference flat response. I don't even have an EQ in the front row. I'm "tuning" by correct placement, crossover points, enclosure design, and time alignment and letting the drivers do what they do. If you want to EQ the system, have at it.... Obviously I can't take responsibility for damage. Up to a certain point it's fine and if someone goes overboard and damages a driver it's their baby. Lucky thing is these drivers are not expensive.
Last edited:
