Unofficial weight reduction thread

[MvM]

Cars that ran fastest lap time during the race (they all ran on sameday):
Mine GTR 58.95sec 3417lbs/600ps
HKS BNR35 59.892sec 3593lbs/700ps
Re Amemiya RX-7 (3 rotor NA) 59.892sec 2425lbs/400ps
Yashiro Factory Silvia F15 1'00"044 2733lbs/550ps
Route KS Zero Force 1'01"047 2367lbs/340ps

Thanks very much for the clearification. I feel better now :smile:

With 600 PS the Mine GTR has a much better power to weight ratio than the Route KS NSX (5.70 lbs/HP versus 6.96 lbs/HP) so in that case I am not surprised that the GTR is faster.
Since these are such heavily modified cars I assume that the brakes and tires for each car have been optimized as to offset the negative effects of the weight.

For the NSX to have the same power-to-weight ratio, it should have had 415 HP instead of only 340 HP. And I am pretty confident that if it would have had that power, the results would have been quite different. I don't know what the exact specs are for the KS Route NSX engine, but with 'only' 340 HP it is not nearly as powerful as the chassis can handle.

 

[Ponyboy]

Those dry carbon doors are awesome. I've been looking for someone to make a set for a long time and just gave up. Keep hope alive!

Now, I just have to find the disposable income.

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

Oh cool... Mr Kawai finally got to the speed acrylic door windows from kawaguchi. I've been nagging for them.

I gutted my doors out so I want a set! :smile:

 

[VampNSXX]

. I put the bolts back in after I took the hooks off as I had no idea if they were holding anything behind.

so does the car need the bolts back on? or could you leave them off?

 

[Diablo360]

so does the car need the bolts back on? or could you leave them off?

I took them off and saved them. From what it looks like, they don't seem to hold anything together on the other side.

 

[Steven Allen]

My question, I see the stock weight for earlier years if NSX's did I miss the stock weight for a 2002? It seems to me from what I have read that if I convert to the NSX-R kit from DownForce I will save some weight on the spoiler, hood etc. The elimination of the tool kit and spare tire and keeping my fuel level low(ER) will save a lot of weight. I already have light OZ wheels and so I wonder what my current weight might be with my configuration noted above - any thoughts?

 

[VampNSXX]

I have 2 ?

1. To talk out the antena motor this is somthing called the Special Nut or somthing like that the one that is outside that has 2 indents on each side. Any way how do you take that of because in the manual it just say to take it of and I have no idea how.



2. to take out the 2 front tow things is it a pain in the ass because it look really tight in there to work with. Do they hold anthing that I should know about or are they like the ones in the back.




thanks

 

[Ponyboy]

1. There is indeed a special tool to remove the antenna mast. The shop manual is sometimes useless or conveniently absent of useful material (I think they do it on purpose). However, you should be able to wrap it in a shop towel and use some channel locks to loosen it.

2. I've taken mine out entirely b/c of the introduction of the Type R chassis bars. There's nothing conspicously being held together by them.

 

[OneRedNSX]

I have 2 ?

1. To talk out the antena motor this is somthing called the Special Nut or somthing like that the one that is outside that has 2 indents on each side. Any way how do you take that of because in the manual it just say to take it of and I have no idea how.



2. to take out the 2 front tow things is it a pain in the ass because it look really tight in there to work with. Do they hold anthing that I should know about or are they like the ones in the back.

thanks

for 1:

I just used either snap ring pliers or needle nose pliers to stick in the two indents on the nut and turn it just like a regular bolt. It isn't that hard once you find a tool or combo of tools that fits in both indents enough to let you turn it.

or, my worst trick to do this (you might be able to do it yourself)...

put some towels on the trunk and get 2 flat-head screwdrivers, put one in each hole pointing towards each other and push from both sides (or if they are REALLY stuck like on some of my older cars, get a friend and you each take a side and thump the back of the screwdriver to get it to break loose)

 

[VampNSXX]

OK I will try that thats guys.

 

[whrdnsx]

I have 2 ?




2. to take out the 2 front tow things is it a pain in the ass because it look really tight in there to work with. Do they hold anthing that I should know about or are they like the ones in the back.

You can remove the front Tow hook plates in the front but I would put one bolt back in as there is a floating nut plate behind & it would probably rattle.
you may or may not notice a rattle but for the sake of one bolt it wouldn't hurt.

 

[Nsxboy3]

Hey NsxSupra,

I want to go get my car weighed! I better start dieting. Both my car and me...I think losing weight will be more challenging on me than my NSX lol :tongue:

 

[L8apex32]

Diablo360,
When are you going to weigh your car?
Inquiring readers want to know!

 

[Diablo360]

Diablo360,
When are you going to weigh your car?
Inquiring readers want to know!

Soon........ This weekend I will take out my blower motor and install my CF brake ducts. It'll be interesting to see how much that sucker weights.

 

[Darko]

Hey, I was wondering if I remove the front and rear under bumper metal protection to reduce weight will be any damage to the car? I mean something like chassis disfunction or some problem with the stability...

 

[OneRedNSX]

Hey, I was wondering if I remove the front and rear under bumper metal protection to reduce weight will be any damage to the car? I mean something like chassis disfunction or some problem with the stability...

there will be damage to YOU if you ever decide to hit something or be hit by something. those are there to keep you save, not weigh down the car.

 

[Ponyboy]

Hey, I was wondering if I remove the front and rear under bumper metal protection to reduce weight will be any damage to the car? I mean something like chassis disfunction or some problem with the stability...

Just replace them w/ aluminium pieces. Procar makes some good examples:

I'd imagine there'd be some chassis flex w/o them but the biggest issue, of course, is that they keep the biggest performance improver (the driver) safe and sound.

 

[L8apex32]

30 day bump for Diablo360 to weigh his car

 

[Diablo360]

30 day bump for Diablo360 to weigh his car

I know I know, I haven't forgotten! I'm studying to retake the LSAT right so I can get a higher score and get into a better law school. I haven't had much time to get out of the house and do car stuff. Aside from driving around to run errands once or twice a week I haven't driven anywhere at all. As soon as my test is over (Sept 29th) i'll do a few finishing touches with weight loss and will finally weight my car.

To add to my list of stuff, I managed to pull out the AC compressor, some misc. lines, tubing, etc.

After my test is done i'll go ahead and remove all of the AC/Heater related stuff from behind the dash, replace my divider window with the lexan one I bought, and a few other small things.

I'm shooting for 2500lb's. Ambitious you think? I'll some time to do a complete write up on everything I have taken out, and/or replaced to make my car lightweight. Give me a few weeks.....

 

[MvM]

Yesterday, I intalled a VIS Racing Sports Type-R hood on my NSX.
This is the VIS hood for the 1991-2001 model NSX.
The total weight saving compared to OEM is rather small.

VIS RacingSports Type-R FRP/CF: 6.8 kg = 15.0 lbs
OEM Hood: 7.4 kg = 16.3 lbs

Total weight savings: 1.3 lbs :smile:

 

[nsxsupra]

Additional confirmed weight:

Rear bumper beam=20.02lbs
Front bumper beam=17.73lbs

rear tower bar=2.31lbs

Additional work sheet:
http://www.melnet.co.jp/e3/nsxowners/keiryou.htm
　
Weight reduction at its best:

(It is just a funny pic)

 

[socalx]

Jason, i'm confused by your bumper beam weights. My rear bumper beam is aluminium and my stock front bumper beam was steel. i didn't weigh them but it was clear that the rear aluminum beam was lighter then the front steel beam. i have since replaced the front beam with a procar aluminum one.

So the weights you listed are they for a steel front beam or aluminum and for a steel rear beam or aluminum?

 

[Sinisfun]

30 day bump for Diablo360 to weigh his car

Any word yet?

 

[Diablo360]

Jason, i'm confused by your bumper beam weights. My rear bumper beam is aluminium and my stock front bumper beam was steel. i didn't weigh them but it was clear that the rear aluminum beam was lighter then the front steel beam. i have since replaced the front beam with a procar aluminum one.

So the weights you listed are they for a steel front beam or aluminum and for a steel rear beam or aluminum?

That ABSOLUTELY has to be the aluminum weight. Jason, you personally held my steel rear bumper beam. No way it only weights 20lb's. I've seen figures somewhere else where they state 45ish lb's, which seems more accurate......

 

[MvM]

That ABSOLUTELY has to be the aluminum weight. Jason, you personally held my steel rear bumper beam. No way it only weights 20lb's. I've seen figures somewhere else where they state 45ish lb's, which seems more accurate......

I absolutely disagree !!
The numbers listed by NSXsupra correspond very well with the numbers that I got for my own steel bumper beams.

What a lot of people forget is that when you have a large and/or long part in your hands, its weights will seem much larger than if you have the same part in a small compact form.
Perhaps next time someone lifts the front or rear beam of his car, he should immediately after lift the OEM Honda battery and then compare those weights.