Unofficial weight reduction thread

[JeffShoots]

OK, I have you all beat on crazy diet idea's

I'm thinking of "Eliminating the V-TEC" for a ~40lb loss in the valve train

I just want to do it to simplify a single turbo project but after some thought you get rid of so much crap like spool valves and all the stuff to run it.

Other Post: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96519

Top that :biggrin:

 

[nsxotic911]

Slownsxt- was your front bumper beam steel? or alum? Thanks

Given the weight and it's feeling of being hollow.. I'm guessing... alluminum, but I could be wrong. To be honest, I'm dissapointed in the weight savings for the front. 15 lbs can be lost by a lot of other things, like replacing the battery up front. I'll see how the rear goes.

 

[nsxotic911]

OK, I have you all beat on crazy diet idea's

I'm thinking of "Eliminating the V-TEC" for a ~40lb loss in the valve train

I just want to do it to simplify a single turbo project but after some thought you get rid of so much crap like spool valves and all the stuff to run it.

Other Post: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96519

Top that :biggrin:

Ummm... how to beat it. uh... drive without a windshield? :biggrin:Oh yeah, good luck, keep us posted.. I don't doubt removing VTEC creates more power.

 

[Sinisfun]

Ummm... how to beat it. uh... drive without a windshield? :biggrin:Oh yeah, good luck, keep us posted.. I don't doubt removing VTEC creates more power.

I was thinking remove the brakes, use a parachute.

 

[Tanto2]

I want to stay flip-up headlights. I'm looking at the OE units for possible weight reduction. I don't know what Honda was thinking, but these units are overdesigned. I'm guessing these units were designed to be able to take the full weight of some BIG person sitting right on it. They may have been a little worried about the alum. Don't laugh, I've seen NSX'rs laying on their hood and windshield (eeek). Anyway I'm going to pull the framework and mill and drill till my hearts content, but that still leaves the 7# light units. Anyone found aftermarket units that were lighter? A friends 07 Z06 has some really small units that I'm wondering about as they might be light. Any light experts?

 

[Tanto2]

Inexpensive scale

Fellow dieters: - do the thread a favor and head over to harbor freight and get their 70# postal scale for $39. It reads to tenths of an oz., I'm pretty impressed for the money.

 

[yellow-scorpion]

speaking of weight scales, has anyone purchased a 4 corner weight scale for a good price and have any input on the accuracy and reliability? I just picked up the Braille CF battery and its size and weight is incredible with the look. Alot of people can't believe the size. slightly larger than a double din stereo. I really think that one day we will have a lap top size battery that we slide into a slot on the car and if your storing your car you just eject the battery and keep it in the house. I see a popular science award in my future....lol.

 

[MvM]

Last weekend, I had my wheels changed from the BBS RSII wheels to my new OZ Ultraleggera wheels.
Put them on the scale and their weight was as follows.

The old wheels:
Front BBS-RSII 17x8 : 11.0 kg / 24.3 lbs per wheel
Rear BBS-RSII 18x10: 11.8 kg / 26.0 lbs per wheel

The new wheels:
Front OZ Ultraleggera 17x7: 7.8 kg / 17.2 lbs per wheel
Rear OZ Ultraleggera 18x9: 8.8 kg / 19.4 lbs per wheel

So, another 12.4 kg saved in the total weight of the car or 27.3 lbs of unsprung weight. Which is always welcome of course.
This is my car with the old BBS-RSII wheels.

This is my car with the new OZ Ultraleggera wheels:

 

[Prospeed]

Great looking car Maarten! Have you weighed the car?

 

[MvM]

Great looking car Maarten! Have you weighed the car?

Yes I have, but that was before the last modifications (NSX-R wing, NSX-R hood, brakes, wheels. So it's really time to have it done again.
According to my last calculation, the car should be down to about 1347 kg or about 2970 lbs with a full tank of fuel.

 

[scorp965]

Spoon Calipers (NA1) - 4.8lbs/each, compared to stock cast aluminum calipers at 14.0lbs/each:

Also, Project Mu SCR Pro 2-piece rotors, 11lbs front and 10lbs rear, compared to stock rotors of 15lbs front and 13lbs rear.

 

[nsxsupra]

Spoon Calipers (NA1) - 4.8lbs/each, compared to stock cast aluminum calipers at 14.0lbs/each:



Also, Project Mu SCR Pro 2-piece rotors, 11lbs front and 10lbs rear, compared to stock rotors of 15lbs front and 13lbs rear.

Wow! that is a lot of weight trimmed.

Just in case, better safe than sorry. I AM CALLING FIRST DIP when you decide to sell this set up and moving onto another set of something different like always, hehe:biggrin: .

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

A big job, but I have begun to tackle simplified wiring harnesses as they do count.

The job has been more complicated for me being ODB2 and seeking to preserve EPS among other things. Tracing had to be done pin by pin, page by page using the service guide. Normally it is far easier to pull everything out and re-wire the car from the ground-up but in this case of the NSX I'll go ahead and make an exception.

Rats nest pile from just one harness. Then include tape, loom, connectors, ties, etc.... every little bit adds up.

I would guess that this one harness came in at least a full pound under stock. With multi-plexing you could go even further. However, I am working under a time contraint.

 

[Sinisfun]

Wow that's dedication to weight savings.

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

The stock tail lights are actually kind of heavy. They also sit out far and some-what high on the rear of the vehicle. If you don't care about leaking, here is a tip.

I reduced their weight down to 3.45lbs each by opening them up and removing the unneccessary- seals, rubber, trim, brackets, diffusers, back-up light reflector, etc... sheds another ~2.85-3 lbs and is barely noticeable. Pictured below:

This seems like second best to me. Ideally, we would ditch them entirely and move to a thinner 1pc design that just kind of looks like a tail light, but molding plastic is expensive. Here is a completed "lightened" tail light lens if you will, doesn't look too bad.

You can further optimize the design by trimming excess material from the plastic mount, deleting the back-up/signal lights, and simplifying the wiring harness. Note the back-up light lens removed- looks to me like a great location for a rain light.

Removing the trunk lock, mount, hinges, and other hardware appears to be worth yet another 4lbs.

 

[MvM]

Absolutely remarkable that you go through so much trouble.
Yet, you might be right in that the total savings from all the harnesses could be quite substantial.

As for my, I recentely added this small part to the car.
It was just a cosmetic upgrade, I replaced the OEM door sills with similar carbon fiber door sill from GT-one. A not too good picture is below

These carbon fiber door sills were acutally heavier than the OEM plastic sills.
So the weight of my car has actually gone UP instead of DOWN

GT-One CF door sills weights: 0.244 kg = 0.538 lbs each
OEM plastic door sills weight: 0.155 kg = 0.342 lbs each
OEM VIN-plate weight: 0.048 kg = 0.105 lbs each

So, my addition of the CF-plates has increased the weight of my car with 0.178 kg = 0.392 lbs.
But it this case, since the weight is located very low, I will allow it :smile:

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

Absolutely remarkable that you go through so much trouble.
Yet, you might be right in that the total savings from all the harnesses could be quite substantial.

If you like that, then you'll really like the beginnings of John Stage 4.

Trunk: - 7 lbs:

V1 Lightened rear bumper stay: -2lbs

Now this is what I call easy access: :biggrin:

As for my, I recentely added this small part to the car.
It was just a cosmetic upgrade, I replaced the OEM door sills with similar carbon fiber door sill from GT-one. A not too good picture is below

These carbon fiber door sills were acutally heavier than the OEM plastic sills.
So the weight of my car has actually gone UP instead of DOWN

GT-One CF door sills weights: 0.244 kg = 0.538 lbs each
OEM plastic door sills weight: 0.155 kg = 0.342 lbs each
OEM VIN-plate weight: 0.048 kg = 0.105 lbs each

So, my addition of the CF-plates has increased the weight of my car with 0.178 kg = 0.392 lbs.
But it this case, since the weight is located very low, I will allow it :smile:

If you ditch the rubber seals around the bottom of the doors, you'll be just about even. :wink:

 

[BD]

Dude John, that's hard core!!! :smile:

 

[Sinisfun]

Dude John, that's hard core!!! :smile:

+1 It just gets crazier and crazier.

 

[TURBO2GO]

If you don't care about leaking, here is a tip.

Trunk: - 7 lbs:

John, I am both impressed and laughing at the same time...

 

[Tanto2]

ECU bracket skeletonization

If you have removed your cruise control and abs on early cars, you can skeletonize the misc ECU mounting bracket behind the glove box. I saved 1.6 # . A couple more computers in the trash, Ahhh! Skeletonizing should only be done by persons with the proper strength of materials understanding. I know some of you have those skills, so I report. I would have trashed the bracket altogether, but it holds the threads for the top bolt of the sub cover.

 

[Tanto2]

Flip-up headlight skeletonization

When studying the headlight lift assemblies some time ago, I came to believe these units were overdesigned a bit. And certainly more than my fair weather car needs. I don't plan on letting any 300# people sit directly on the unit when it's up, or letting the car out in the freezing rain which might tax the system. I was also kind of infuriated with the oxide finish which was starting to rust on my car thats only been wet a few times. So I decided to see what I could trim. And at that time I fugured I would find a lighter headlight assembly also. I was only able to get off 2.3# for both units, but I'll take it. This was a big job and took a lot of study. Skeletonizing should only be done by persons with the proper strength of materials understanding. I know some of you have those skills, so I report. I wish I could document the changes, but there are just too many. The light unit itself was around 5# which is quite heavy. Old sealed beam units probably weighed around 1 to 1/2# at most (they call that progress?). I didn't want to break the seal just to get the weight, but the vertical glass protection lens looks REAL heavy. All the newer cars can get away with thinner glass or plex as they are at a very sharp angle. I had my eye on the latest Z06 lights as they may be very light, but a vertical protection lens of some sort would still be needed (I don't like conversions). And the Z06 units are about $850 used, too much to just buy and play with. I'm still looking for lighter units down the road. I don't drive too much at night, so a slight compromise works for me. I should get under 2800 by spring keeping seats, stereo and climate. Happy dieting!

 

[Greg Z]

Thanks Ojas,

Do you know the weight of the washer fluid tank and the amount of fluid it holds.

Why yes I do. Took it off this evening.

Washer fluid Tank EMPTY = 1LB
Washer fluid Tank FULL = 7lbs

 

[Greg Z]

Thanks for the list :smile:

Does the weight of the front beam including those odd items like the horn etc. ??

I can answer this also.

Foam w/alum. brace = 5lbs

Steel beam = 18lbs

I left the horn on the car. Relocated of course.

I also left the steel brackets on as the front bumper cover bolts directly to them.

 

[rsevo6]

So, my addition of the CF-plates has increased the weight of my car with 0.178 kg = 0.392 lbs.
But it this case, since the weight is located very low, I will allow it :smile:

I absolutely disagree!!
You go through all the trouble to save weight and now you will allow an additional weight item to remain on the car

Take it off asap, replace them with the OE lighter items and throw those CF parts away, pref in my direction as I won't care about the weight problem they cause:biggrin: :wink: