T-Belt R&R

[NSXBill2]

Moving right along...

I have the pump, tensioner, T-belt, covers, a/c tensioner back on, engine lowered and trans mount bolt back in. Tomorrow: oil cooler/pedistal back on with two new hoses, and install three new main hoses to engine.

When through, I will have replaced 12 coolant hoses (using pool gel lube), but have reused all the clamps.

Question: Is this SOB gonna leak coolant from the hose joints? Do newly installed waterpumps leak sometimes?

Still waiting on new crank pulley, two more hoses and some miscellaneous bolts and clips.

I will still need to adust the valves. I have the tools from Amazon and some go-no-go feeler gages. Is this hard for someone who has never done it? Where/what is the best DIY for this?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Daedalus]

The NSX was the 1st car I've had to adjust valves on. I did it during the timing belt job too, and just followed the manual. Pretty straightforward, though there is a bit of a learning curve. You'll feel the right amount of drag on the gauge when it's right. I don't think I got any of the valves dead on the first try. You have a .002 tolerance range, which is about 1/2 the thickness of a sheet of paper, so there's not much play available. Maybe 1/15 of a full screw turn range, assuming .75mm threads.
I found it challenging holding the valve steady with 1 tool while using a torque wrench to get the right amount of torque on the nut. The valve kept turning out of spec. I finally put a vise grip on the valve holder to give me enough counter-torque to hold it steady enough. It was also a pain working on the rear valves, as there's less tool space. It's not hard relative to what you've already done.

 

[goldNSX]

Well, I am deep into changing my T-Belt/WP now. I can't believe how torn-apart my car is! I decided since I had to drain the coolant (a job in itself!), that I would go ahead and change most of my hoses - all the big main ones and the oil cooler ones anyway. It took me three hours to R&R the three in the middle of the floor by themselves! TIP: Buy LONG straight and bent-tip needle-nose pliers and a 90-degree angle pick and some one-sided razor blades. TIP 2: Don't try it without using the silicon gel from a pool store. TIP 3: Heat hoses up slightly with hair dryer or small heater.

Good job! Did you also have a coolant shower when getting off the three middle hoses?

Removing the pulley: Do you have a picture of it? Good job again!

 

[NSXBill2]

...I finally put a vise grip on the valve holder to give me enough counter-torque to hold it steady enough. It was also a pain working on the rear valves, as there's less tool space. It's not hard relative to what you've already done.

Thanks. The vise grip tip sounds helpful.

 

[NSXBill2]

Good job! Did you also have a coolant shower when getting off the three middle hoses?

Removing the pulley: Do you have a picture of it? Good job again!

No shower on the middle three hoses, as I had already drained the system. The two big lines have drains right there, so not too much excess drainage. The heater hose has no drain there, so it had a little more drainage, but not too much. It was hard to get the car high enough to work under the middle without a lift. Get and use the pool gel lube, and warm up the hoses some.

I don't have a picture of the pulley removal setup as it was just like the pictures in Gary's DIY (except he used a 3/4 inch torque wrenck): several extensions supported by a jack stand with a breaker bar and a jack handle is what finally worked. My jack stand wasn't high enough (since the car was already on jack stands), so I used some wood blocks to raise it to the right level. I honestly had planned on using my impact wrench to do it since I had used it to get my axle nuts off (252 lb-ft). No way! Although, I hadn't planned on it, and didn't ultimately need it to get the job done, I would definiantly recommend purchasing a long 3/4 breaker bar and 3/4-to-1/2 adapter. The bending of the 1/2 bar was quite scary.

Bill

 

[goldNSX]

Another question: Does the water pump come with a gasket or do you have to buy it separately?

What about the screws for the water pump. Can all of them be reused with Loctite or is it better to change some of them?

What about the 7 90423-PY3-000 RUBBER, TIMING BELT PLATE MOUNTING Are they still ok on the older cars?

No need to change the crankshaft position sensor on older cars?

 

[NSXBill2]

Another question: Does the water pump come with a gasket or do you have to buy it separately?

What about the screws for the water pump. Can all of them be reused with Loctite or is it better to change some of them?

What about the 7 90423-PY3-000 RUBBER, TIMING BELT PLATE MOUNTING Are they still ok on the older cars?

No need to change the crankshaft position sensor on older cars?

W/P comes with gasket alread installed on it (like a big o-ring)

I reused all the bolts. Cleaned and put Honda Bond on them. DO NOT USE LOCTITE. You could probably use some silicone gasket stuff, but I used Honda Bond. However, after giving this advice, I have not put coolant back in yet so don't know if the job I did will leak .

Don't know what timing belt plate you refer to. The new water pump requires a different cover and a grommet or make hole in the old cover and use grommet. There is discussion on other thread about the W/P kit -305 that comes with the new cover and grommet for LESS than the pump by itself!

I hope I don't need to change the sensor. I didn't. I'm about tired of changing stuff right now:tongue: .

Bill

 

[goldNSX]

DO NOT USE LOCTITE.

Thanks for your answer: Leaves open one question: Why not Loctite?

 

[RON98]

Thanks for your answer: Leaves open one question: Why not Loctite?

lock tight is over kill.

if you plan on having your nsx around for another 60k miles and 1 more TB service than lock tight is bad.

i had a customer bring in their nsx and literally, EVERY SINGLE BOLT for the TB job had RED lock tight on it.

the previous mechanic, really didnt want any bolts to come lose.

anyways, it took 2 hours longer to do the job because the bolts where just that much harder to get off.

the crank pulley bolt had lock tight on it.. and it literally took the hand of god to get it off.

i had to use a chain wrench wedged on the floor, then a 4 feet braker bar and then an additional 4 feet pipe on the braker bar and me jumping on the end of a 8 feet contraption to brake it lose.

lots of cut nuckles and pulled muscles.

you dont need lock tight for the TB job, just torque specs.

happy motoring.

Rob

 

[goldNSX]

Thanks for the explanation, Rob.

Opens another question : Where to use Loctite at all? Am I right with using it only on REUSED bolts which were originally coated? The bolts of the water pump are such special ones. Without coating do they leak coolant?

Besides that: There is a plate for sale by titaniumdave (? not sure) which protects the TB from a broken harmonic balancer. Does anyone have a pic of it installed?

One more: If the TB tensioner bolt should not be removed according to the SM what should be done if the tensioner is changed?

 

[NSXBill2]

Thanks for the explanation, Rob.

Opens another question : Where to use Loctite at all? Am I right with using it only on REUSED bolts which were originally coated? The bolts of the water pump are such special ones. Without coating do they leak coolant?

Besides that: There is a plate for sale by titaniumdave (? not sure) which protects the TB from a broken harmonic balancer. Does anyone have a pic of it installed?

One more: If the TB tensioner bolt should not be removed according to the SM what should be done if the tensioner is changed?

Don't know where you would use Loctite...haven't ever used it, but I am not a big engine rebuilder. W/P bolts are only special because they come with the SEALANT on them. This is to keep them from leaking not to keep them from coming out, I believe. I cleaned and used Honda Bond per Larry.

Remove the tensioner bolt to change tensioner. No big deal. Re-torque per the tensioning procedure in the manual.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

W/P comes with gasket alread installed on it (like a big o-ring)

I have not put coolant back in yet so don't know if the job I did will leak .


Bill

Did you pressure test it after the pump was reinstalled? I am thinking no, based on this comment.

You should pressure test it right after the waterpump install and hose install, just in case there is a leak. Found out the hard way once, did the entire job a second time, after a test drive and cool down, and found a QT. of coolant under the car. I think I must have nicked and damaged the waterpump seal some how. The pressure test would have shown a leak, and the fix would have been 1/2 hour vs. 7+ hours to do it again.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[goldNSX]

The new water pump requires a different cover and a grommet or make hole in the old cover and use grommet. There is discussion on other thread about the W/P kit -305 that comes with the new cover and grommet for LESS than the pump by itself!

Which thread are you refering to? Does the -305 come with the new cover? 19200-PR7-305 SET, WATER PUMP ASSY. is about $205, right?

 

[RON98]

Thanks for the explanation, Rob.

Opens another question : Where to use Loctite at all? Am I right with using it only on REUSED bolts which were originally coated? The bolts of the water pump are such special ones. Without coating do they leak coolant?

Besides that: There is a plate for sale by titaniumdave (? not sure) which protects the TB from a broken harmonic balancer. Does anyone have a pic of it installed?

One more: If the TB tensioner bolt should not be removed according to the SM what should be done if the tensioner is changed?

Hey

with out the coating, the pump bolts will not leak coolant. the rubber seal is acturally before the water pump bolts and the bolts themselves do not extend into the water jacket.

 

[RON98]

Did you pressure test it after the pump was reinstalled? I am thinking no, based on this comment.

You should pressure test it right after the waterpump install and hose install, just in case there is a leak. Found out the hard way once, did the entire job a second time, after a test drive and cool down, and found a QT. of coolant under the car. I think I must have nicked and damaged the waterpump seal some how. The pressure test would have shown a leak, and the fix would have been 1/2 hour vs. 7+ hours to do it again.

Regards,
LarryB

wow Hey Larry

i feel your pains. it happened to me on a little sohc civic.

the water pump seal didnt seat right and the car started leaking when i started it up.

it was a quick 1 1/2 job and a lot easier to change than the nsx wp.

i always double check the pump seals to make sure they seat properly when i put on the water pump and feel it with my fingers to make sure it is in the grove before bolting it down.

also you can tell the water pump gasket is not seated properly if your putting lots of tension on the wp bolts to get the water pump surface flush with the block. this happend on that little civic and i dismissed it rather than investigating further.

definitly a good tiP!

Rob

 

[NSXBill2]

Did you pressure test it after the pump was reinstalled? I am thinking no, based on this comment.

You should pressure test it right after the waterpump install and hose install, just in case there is a leak. Found out the hard way once, did the entire job a second time, after a test drive and cool down, and found a QT. of coolant under the car. I think I must have nicked and damaged the waterpump seal some how. The pressure test would have shown a leak, and the fix would have been 1/2 hour vs. 7+ hours to do it again.

Regards,
LarryB

Ok, I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed on the W/P. How about the hoses...greased up with the pool gel and reinstalled with the original clamps...what is your experience with these leaking?...sometimes?...most of the time?...never?

I still have two firewall-to-engine hoses to go and two engine-to-coolant tank hoses to go...

 

[RON98]

Ok, I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed on the W/P. How about the hoses...greased up with the pool gel and reinstalled with the original clamps...what is your experience with these leaking?...sometimes?...most of the time?...never?

I still have two firewall-to-engine hoses to go and two engine-to-coolant tank hoses to go...

the hoses never leak if the recieving end is free of crud and calcium build up.

im a big fan of replacing the stock oem hose clamps with the one that you tighten up with a screw driver.

those are way easier to put on than the compression clamps and also seals real tight.

take your time and no rush.

happy motoring

Rob

btw if you get stick, feel free to call me on my 888#. goes straight to my cell

 

[NSXBill2]

....im a big fan of replacing the stock oem hose clamps with the one that you tighten up with a screw driver.

those are way easier to put on than the compression clamps and also seals real tight....

Too late dude. Hope the OEM's hold. I wanted to keep them if I could to retain the OEM look...

Thanks, Bill

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I have not had an issue with the OEM clamps. I would not be concerned.

LarryB

 

[Sulley]

When I did my TB/waterpump, I replaced all the cooling system hoses. I reused all the stock clamps with no leaks.
Sulley

 

[drew]

The OEM clamps are better than the standard worm screw clamp, as the OEMs apply continuous torque and flexibility.

The screw clamps are a lot easier to install properly and that will trump the benefits of an improperly installed OEM clamp.

If you must replace the OEM clamps with screw type clamps, they have a hybrid called "Constant Torque" clamps.

http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm

Drew

 

[NSXBill2]

The OEM clamps are better than the standards worm screw clamp, as the OEMs apply continuous torque and flexibility....Drew

I had never thought of it, but you are right. The OEM "spring" clamps will always keep "automatically tightening" themselves, where as the screw type just stay at the setting you end up adjusting them to.

 

[NSXBill2]

Here's a question:

Do you really have to remove the oil pedistal/cooler to do the T-Belt/WP R&R?

I did remove mine, cleaned it and replaced both hoses to it. However, yesterday, I ended up torquing the T-belt cover bolts all around the oil pedistal/cooler after I had alread fully installed it (hoses, wire, filter and all). There are only three cover bolts anywhere near the thing. One is hard to get to, but I tightened it with the same tools I would have used if the cooler wasn't in the way.

I didn't remove/install the covers with it on, just torqued the bolts. So maybe there isn't clearance to R&R covers or something. Just curious.

Bill

 

[Elite]

Here's a question:

Do you really have to remove the oil pedistal/cooler to do the T-Belt/WP R&R?

I did remove mine, cleaned it and replaced both hoses to it. However, yesterday, I ended up torquing the T-belt cover bolts all around the oil pedistal/cooler after I had alread fully installed it (hoses, wire, filter and all). There are only three cover bolts anywhere near the thing. One is hard to get to, but I tightened it with the same tools I would have used if the cooler wasn't in the way.

I didn't remove/install the covers with it on, just torqued the bolts. So maybe there isn't clearance to R&R covers or something. Just curious.

Bill

I have never taken that off when doing a T-belt, but I drop the engine when I do them, so that may make a difference.

 

[jcwells]

I am getting ready to do this job on my newly acquired 98 with 47,000 miles. A local member is graciously loaning me the tools.

Elite: Could you elaborate why you drop the engine, when the consensus seems to be that it’s a shorter job when you don’t (assuming of course you are not changing the clutch). I do have a lift, so have considered dropping the engine.

Thanks,
John