Hi,
they don't list any for NSX on their website.... care to explain ? :biggrin:
Thanks,
Nuno
they don't list any for NSX on their website.... care to explain ? :biggrin:
Thanks,
Nuno
"solidol" 94 BB: maintenance/build
- Thread starter solidol
- Start date
What are the benefits of those shafts? Or is it Oem replacement?
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Nuno, they are in the middle of website redesign. New site will have it. Meanwhile feel free to contact Mike at [email protected]
He is great guy and I'm sure will do int shipping for you no problem.
There are few. One and less important for me is that these are 500hp rated. Another one more important is that there is finally a set from that company that has been making axles for drag and high hp/tq cars for years and with great success. Given the price for this set versus potential oem parts you need to fully rebuild your set it makes it even better proposition. Then there is no down time. If you have no or minimal wear on your oem shaft and/or you're not chasing crazy power output numbers you're most likely better off just buying new boots and repacking your set.
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Thanks for the clarification, have fun on the install
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Quick hookup to do smoke test of the SOS Lcd screen. Amazing resolution and image clarity
Back of the unit. You can see signs of DIY nature (there is nothing wrong with it - I happen to like things like that)
Maybe not the cleanest application but it will do
Homemade jdm. Didn't expect to see the need to clamp it. But that less than 1mm gap between the screen's frame and navpod would drive me crazy later. Too bad I don't have my garage anymore. And only one clamp was in my toolbox. Letting it cure for now.
//that thing on the other side is wire brush with wooden handle wrapped in microfiber towel. Don't worry I didn't clamp against the navpod
Back of the unit. You can see signs of DIY nature (there is nothing wrong with it - I happen to like things like that)
Maybe not the cleanest application but it will do
Homemade jdm. Didn't expect to see the need to clamp it. But that less than 1mm gap between the screen's frame and navpod would drive me crazy later. Too bad I don't have my garage anymore. And only one clamp was in my toolbox. Letting it cure for now.
//that thing on the other side is wire brush with wooden handle wrapped in microfiber towel. Don't worry I didn't clamp against the navpod
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Thanks Robert! Today marks my first day with ITB build - pretty excited about it. Stay tuned for more
DID I READ THAT CORRECTLY.....OH MAN. We need to figure out a way to meet up when I am in SF next month
Make sure you tell your PO before heading up this way
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Yeah you got that right - but it's just the beginning of the long journeyDID I READ THAT CORRECTLY.....
Let's catch up when you're here.
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Why would I tell him? Ask forgiveness, not permission pinche pedo viejo.
Yeah you got that right - but it's just the beginning of the long journey
Yeah I can only imagine and I know for sure you will be doing most of the work on your own. Cant wait for updates!!
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I'm trying to put everything together. Started with fuel system now. There are so many issues to fix once you go ITBs - sometimes I question my sanity
But it looks like it will be fun
Meanwhile everything has been cured well. And I'm testing smartphone screen mirroring on the navpod
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ITBs! I'm watching carefully, you go through all the hard work and then I can follow your path!
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This road is long and rough. But I'm already walking
***Navpod update
Wired everything up yesterday's night. Few things to note: wrapped mounting bracket's edges with soft 3m padding. Don't like how bare metal could touch top of the dash; bracket needs to be adjusted slightly more downwards just enough to put enough resistance when navpod is on and to pull it down to eliminate any gaps; had to remove AC control unit and slide out radio to have enough room to route usb wires to the arm rest (for smartphone mirroring); power for LCD is drawn from clock connector (yellow wire +12, black for ground);
Now just getting used to new look. And getting ready for Infinity6 + gaugeart.
Does the monitor turn ON when you start the car? Or you have to use the remote?
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Starts once it gets +12v; If no signal there is configurable timeout to shut it off.
- - - Updated - - -
Received a bunch of dummies. Even though I already decided to go with ID725. Amazing tech and company. Also see attached - good read.
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Finally had a chance to put tiDave's F/R mounts in yesterday. Took me around 4 hours including putting car on the lift, slowly dropping necessary parts to get access to the front engine mount. Plus random chit chats with guys around the bay. And taking time to torque everything to spec. Realistically it can be done in about 3 hours or less.
I was a bit on the fence about using anything but OEM mounts. And it turned out to be the case this time too. These are great but too stiff for me (or I believe any street car); even though all the extra vibration transfer is almost not noticeable above 3.5k rpm. They give really nice solid feel when on/off throttle and when shifting above 4k rpm. So basically great mod for the track cars.
Note: proper tq sequence must be used anytime you loosen any center bolts/nuts; so when replacing say front mount you have to loosen all four center bolts. Then tq sequence is [Front, Right, Left , Rear]; also keep in mind that transmission mounting bolts must be torqued to higher spec than others. Please see service manual for exact values.
Torn front engine mount is out
tiDave's engine mount below, installed and view from the bottom without cross member
And rear transmission mount installed too
I was a bit on the fence about using anything but OEM mounts. And it turned out to be the case this time too. These are great but too stiff for me (or I believe any street car); even though all the extra vibration transfer is almost not noticeable above 3.5k rpm. They give really nice solid feel when on/off throttle and when shifting above 4k rpm. So basically great mod for the track cars.
Note: proper tq sequence must be used anytime you loosen any center bolts/nuts; so when replacing say front mount you have to loosen all four center bolts. Then tq sequence is [Front, Right, Left , Rear]; also keep in mind that transmission mounting bolts must be torqued to higher spec than others. Please see service manual for exact values.
Torn front engine mount is out
tiDave's engine mount below, installed and view from the bottom without cross member
And rear transmission mount installed too
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My experience with engine mounts is mixed. I had them on my Integra Type R, vibrations to almost crack the windshield but I loved how the car became so accurate and "stiff". But I was also 24 years old and did not mind the vibrations at every traffic light. Now it would drive me insane.
Point of no return now haha! Great build!ITB build update - tagged
Why did you put the accord V6 engine on the license plate?:biggrin:
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