"solidol" 94 BB: maintenance/build

[solidol]

Great build. Regarding elevation change I never had that with my car. I had it tuned at about 500 ft and drove it for about 1 1/2 years at 4,100 ft without a problem. I did feel the lost of power at higher that elevation though. Did you buy your setup from Hayward? If so he does sell booties that will go right over the ITB. I have them but only used it on long distance drive.

Thanks for sharing. Well I was planning to run socks too. At least until I 3d print intake plenum.

Didn't you have vibrant built plenum on yours?

 

[gsrboy]

Thanks for sharing. Well I was planning to run socks too. At least until I 3d print intake plenum.

Didn't you have vibrant built plenum on yours?

I had Derek at AllinFab build the plenum. Did you end up getting the 50mm throttles?

 

[solidol]

I had Derek at AllinFab build the plenum. Did you end up getting the 50mm throttles?

It looks very good. How heavy is it? 52mm actually.

 

[gsrboy]

It looks very good. How heavy is it? 52mm actually.

Thanks, I haven't gotten a weight measurement but it feels about 5-10 lbs. Ill try to get it measured soon. We have a very similar build. I also have the 52mm Jenvey throttles. That mean my setup should work with your car as well.

 

[solidol]

Thanks, I haven't gotten a weight measurement but it feels about 5-10 lbs. Ill try to get it measured soon. We have a very similar build. I also have the 52mm Jenvey throttles. That mean my setup should work with your car as well.

Yeah. I was planning to design and 3d print something very close to this below. Have two piece design. Bottom part would be mounted permanently and top would be easily removable. I also want to smooth out the overall shape to reduce any vortices inside the plenum.

Where did you mount your IAT and MAP sensors? Also what ems are you using? What IATs do you see driving on the streets of LA?

 

[solidol]

I had few hours to finally fix my battery mount. To my surprise DieHard weighed at 37lb. Heavy but I was expecting 40+

Stripped insulation leftovers with boiling water and just peeled it off.

Dave (@titaniumdave) sent me these last week and I finally managed to take care of my front sway bar end links.

Found somewhat easy way to install them (lubrication + two crossed screwdrivers). But still it wasn't quick and need to be careful not to damage it.
There is nifty tool if you have to do many of these (http://tinyurl.com/pvh9ck7)

I think I may have to trim my brake ducts a bit.

 

[solidol]

Winter in San Francisco means rain. It also means there is time to catch up on maintenance and install few parts that have been laying around.

Finally scored CT exhaust. I'm not a huge fan of loud exhausts, I like induction sound more. And this is perfect for being noticeable but not intrusive in any way. I will probably end up buying Fujitsubo Ti later anyway. R&R without jacking up the rear is possible but not advisable

I also installed NSX-R front upper and lower braces. The most time consuming part was bumper R&R.

I had to use SOS bushing kit to lower battery tray and clear my Dali sway bar.

The only pre ITBs mod was DF intake scoop. It was PITA to align everything to clear the fender liner. I wish DF did better job designing it. It could have been slimmer without flow penalty and would fit much much better.

I also got new Koyo radiator (Thanks to @michaelbrat) and it was time to put it in. I used AirLift vacuum filler tool and it was quick and easy.
Tip: draining hose ID is 8mm (5/16) and if you have to bleed the system you can use hose with ID 5.5mm (7/32); I used clear silicone hose from ACE hardware.

Draining. Remember to replace two washers on the middle pipes drain bolts.

Old vs new

Did a bit of cleaning. Also replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. As well as upper and lower radiator mount rubber cushions.

Now vacuum leak test

And ready to fill it. Primed filling hose to minimize amount of air in the system. Koyo radiator has a bit larger capacity but 5 bottles of Type two will suffice for the job.

Fresh set of Z2 and alignment ahead of MRLS.

Also hit 140k miles recently

 

[michaelbrat]

Great thread Roman. I just read through the whole thing. I didn't know you had so many little refining mods on your NSX.

A few questions for you.

-Did you notice a difference in the Bilstein vs OEM dampers? I'm planning on running the Bilsteins with Type-R top hat bushing and OEM springs. Also considering Swift springs, but I haven't read anything about the performance.

-Do you recall the weight of your aftermarket flywheel vs OEM? It sounds like the reduced weight didn't affect daily drivability.

-How did you feel about the 15"/16" OEM wheels with Z2 tires vs your 17" OEM wheels with Z2 setup? I assume the 17" setup is a bit more responsive, but I'm curious about your experience. It would be nice to have that 15" thicker tire up to reduce road harshness and make those 3pt turns a little easier!

-I'm jealous of that Type-S steering wheel. Looks nice!

-Can you elaborate on the difference in feel from the OEM sway bar endlinks vs cedar ridge? I'm running the CT engineering sway with OEM endlinks right now, and have been told that solid adjustable endlinks make all the difference.

-I'm glad you tested the cedar ridge mounts. I was told they aren't much harsher than OEM, but it's good to get your feedback on them. The OEM mounts are just expensive!

-Looks like the Koyo radiator swap went smoothly. Did you end up bleeding the system after using the coolant system vacuum tool?
FYI-
OEM = 9.5lbs
Koyo = 7lbs

-Did you feel a difference with the Type-R front bar installed? I plan on getting these too.

Ok sorry, maybe more than a few questions

Mike B

 

[solidol]

Hey Mike, thanks for taking up to read though it.

Comments inline. Hope you find them helpful. Feel free to message or call me if you want to discuss some in more details.

Great thread Roman. I just read through the whole thing. I didn't know you had so many little refining mods on your NSX.

A few questions for you.

-Did you notice a difference in the Bilstein vs OEM dampers? I'm planning on running the Bilsteins with Type-R top hat bushing and OEM springs. Also considering Swift springs, but I haven't read anything about the performance.

> yes. Bilsteins are harsher when cold. Not a problem once warmed up. But still a bit stiffer. For low budget setups I think Bilsteins + OEM springs are great compromise. If I would have to do it again I would. Otherwise KW V3.

-Do you recall the weight of your aftermarket flywheel vs OEM? It sounds like the reduced weight didn't affect daily drivability.

> Unfortunately we didn't weight it. But you can ask Chris@SOS and I'm sure he will give you figure. I don't think it's that important mostly because you loose weight not just with flywheel but with whole assembly: single disk, lighter flywheel etc; once again it's great balance - not too light to make you go crazy in the city yet light enough to easily feel the difference with all the reduced mass. It doesn't hold inertia as well as oem obviously but I love the response. Just need to be a bit quicker when up shifting. When I drive oem setups now all NAs feel "lazy" to rev almost. I put around 25k miles on this clutch and no issues so far. But stories of failed ones make me want to say if I would have to get replacement I would either get CT or OsGiken. But all I know I'm not going back to dual mass setup

-How did you feel about the 15"/16" OEM wheels with Z2 tires vs your 17" OEM wheels with Z2 setup? I assume the 17" setup is a bit more responsive, but I'm curious about your experience. It would be nice to have that 15" thicker tire up to reduce road harshness and make those 3pt turns a little easier!

> It's simple. I'm a sucker for fat tire. I loved the looks and with sticky rubber and reduced weight I definitely felt more suspension response. The only issue was rear tires were just too narrow for me with shorter gears (more tq) but otherwise I loved it. 17s are great mostly because of looks and tire choices. But reduced sidewall will make more impact forces transferred to the suspension/shock. As long as you can compensate with compression setup on the sock you should be fine. Think KW etc again. But that won't save you from damaged wheels #citylife

-I'm jealous of that Type-S steering wheel. Looks nice!

> I loved my Mugen wheel after driving Colin's NSX. But Type-S sort of makes more sense to me since it's leather and I don't have to clean it every month. Remember Zagato made this wheel for both Honda and AlfaRomeo. I bought mine in Europe removed from Alfa. If you want a contact of the shop - lmk. Great experience.

-Can you elaborate on the difference in feel from the OEM sway bar endlinks vs cedar ridge? I'm running the CT engineering sway with OEM endlinks right now, and have been told that solid adjustable endlinks make all the difference.

> It would mostly depend on how stiff your settings on CT bar is obviously and how bad your oem end-links are. But no matter what just talk to Dave and get set of four with rubber boots. You WILL feel the difference as you will minimize losses in the tension transfer. I suggest you leave your bars in the same setting F/R. Adjust TiDave links to OEM length and put them in. Have some seat time and observe the difference. You will start to feel how your bar works right away now. Not a bit later when you put more load on it. You may want to corner balance your car with next alignment. Not needed but I went against lighter is better philosophy and got two quick adjust style links in the rear. You need only one to corner balance it quicker though.

-I'm glad you tested the cedar ridge mounts. I was told they aren't much harsher than OEM, but it's good to get your feedback on them. The OEM mounts are just expensive!

> Great mounts. But this is street car first then occasional track. I need compliance in expense of response. All I miss is shifting feel. I don't miss vibration transfer. I'm sticking with OEM for a long time. Once again I'm NA with tiny bit more HP/TQ. Boosted guys and setups with more aggressive clutches may be forced to upgrade.

-Looks like the Koyo radiator swap went smoothly. Did you end up bleeding the system after using the coolant system vacuum tool?
FYI-
OEM = 9.5lbs
Koyo = 7lbs

> It was smooth sailing. Didn't have time to weight them both so great to have numbers now. Once I put new coolant in I had to leave home and do around 1-1.2h drive. I left with coolant level at MAX after topping it up after quick 30sec engine run. Next day it dropped maybe 1/4 of a tank. So I assumed there were no much air in the system after initial fill. After that I drove it for maybe 200 miles and level never changed. I tried to find old pictures to see where my temp gauge would usually sit after running car for few hours. And that led me to bleeding the system which showed little to no air. I can't wait to get new brain and setup proper monitoring for all the metrics. AirLift did great job. Also thanks for calling me few days before to share your experience - totally unexpected and much appreciated.

-Did you feel a difference with the Type-R front bar installed? I plan on getting these too.

> Front upper I would say yes. But it's kind of vague and relies on personal feel since we cannot measure it. The way I look at it when asking similar questions is: would you do it again? So in this case Yes I would get front upper bar again. Lower bar is interesting mostly because I had to use SOS spacers to clear my Dali swaybar. I want to say if LoveFab would be a bit cheaper I would just get that one. It's heavier though.

Ok sorry, maybe more than a few questions

Mike B

 

[michaelbrat]

Hey Mike, thanks for taking up to read though it.

Comments inline. Hope you find them helpful. Feel free to message or call me if you want to discuss some in more details.

Hey Roman. Thanks for the thorough reply.

-I think I will go with the Bilsteins for now and maybe research the Swift spring option. I've only heard good things about those dampers.

-Great to hear. I totally forgot the NSX has a dual clutch setup, and that you're running the single. It sounds like that's the way to go; especially if it doesn't sacrifice driveability.

-I'm curious of the weight difference now between the OEM 15 front and the RPF1 I'm running. I'll weigh them and post it up.
I've always wanted to do a 16/17 setup, but the tire selection is so limited. I agree with your fat tire preference; it's just too bad the small wheels tires are slowly being phased out.

-Oh I see, so the wheel you have is from an Alfa? I looks like it says Honda on the middle leather but it's hard to tell.
Yes, please send me the contact info. I'm interested to see if they have any others available.

-Good suggestion on the links. I'll do that.

-I'm glad the coolant flush went smooth. Some tool designs are amazing. Just can't live without them anymore.

-Ok, I'm guying the Type-R bars too!

Thanks again Roman. Keep it up!

Mike B

 

[06_typeS]

Great build from start to finish.

 

[HDA]

Coming together nicely Roman.

 

[Typeone]

Nice work! What sort of power gains are you expecting to see from the ITBs?