Jinks back in the saddle! I like it.
Best of fortune whatever you may decide :smile:
Best of fortune whatever you may decide :smile:
So, this just happened.....
- Thread starter Jinks
- Start date
Thank you kindly. I am leaning towards full motor build. I literally have 4 full pages of parts on my quote. It's madness!
But seeing my car I rescued from the pound drive away on a car gurney I couldn't imagine not driving it again.:frown:
At least you know it wasn't a result of the CTSC or any of it's components. Did the car feel faster right before the engine let go?
Let's just say, I was having a wonderful drive. Followed by the worst possible feeling ever! The 91-96 cars have SHIT head gaskets!!! If you have them on a ctsc'd car change them! Quick! 1K2GO had the same issues on his motor. Fortunately for him though, he was on track and realized his temp gauge acting up. I had no such issues with my temp gauge. Just KABOOM! Followed by a shower of coolant and oil!
I've blown a few motors, and usually they felt the best right before the "KABOOM". Lesson learned for me is to never go FI on a motor that wasn't specifically meant to be FI. Therefore, I now only buy cars with FI that are factory designed. I don't play around with modding them except for an intake and exhaust. My car's have all lasted much longer for me now.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Definitely. The open deck block is the issue. However, I will only run 10 psi pulley. The motor should be just fine. Kips race nsx has over 700hp and it still runs on an oem transmission! But no I agree with you. Unfortunately there is nothing on earth I can afford right now to choose over my nsx. It's a looker for sure.
My newb question: What kind of job are we talking about with the head gasket upgrade? Is it a few hours, or is it major checkbook destruction?
Just a head gasket job at DA consists of timeserts into the block, new head gaskets, machining of the heads, and arp head bolts. This runs about 5800...
Do it right instead of eating through a bunch of our rare motors.
Another different train of thought here. I wouldn't do timeserts into a 3.0L block. On a 3.2L block.. sure - it's almost required. On a 3.0L block, new OEM head bolts torqued down to 3.2L specs, stock compression ratio on a Cometic gasket. That's the recipe for success for the Socal engine builders.
[MENTION=30599]prym8[/MENTION] $5800 is on the high side. Look to swapping out to updated LMAs while opening up the heads.
Fully agree with Regan here. When my head gaskets went in my 3.2, we did timeserts as that motor is not as bulletproof as the 3.0. In fact it wasn't the head gasket that failed, it was two head bolts that pulled out of the block, stripping the threads with them! When (not if) my clutch goes, I'll pull the motor, do full service inclusive of replacing the head gaskets and I will upgrade the LMA's. Good luck Jinks. We are all pulling for you.
If it is just a HG upgrade on the C30s without any other engine damage you can do it in the car apparently. Coz has done this for more than a few NSX's.
For Jinks, the cylinder liners and piston rings would need to be worked as coolant probably messed up one of more cylinders. That means tearing into the rotating assembly and higher costs. At that point, it's a no-brainer to go with forged pistons.
Regan, I could be wrong, but if the head bolts on the C30 and C32 are the same length, same diameter, and have the same engagement with the aluminum block threads, then who knows why the C32's seem to be pulling out more frequently than the C30's. When Honda "upgraded" the cylinder liners to the FRM, did they correspondingly downgrade the aluminum block alloy? I don't know, but when you spend $6k for a rebuild, another $200 to Timesert is cheap insurance!
Sorry to hear about your car Jinks. It looked really good on the flatbed and in shop though! It's in good hands and will be in better-than-new shape soon.
@Mac Attack - I don't know the technical reasoning and I know where you're heading. It's purely based on 3 local mechanics experiences as evidenced by the ratio of working motors to failed ones AND from owners testaments on the autopsies. FWIW Socal has the biggest sample size for these things so i'm just counting the probabilities. I wish I had a better answer for you. My 3.0L has been working fine under 7-8psi of boost with my recommended method.
Perhaps due to the marginally bigger bore the boost PSI has higher loads on the head studs in a 3.2L. Thinner walls allow more flex in the block. Heat expansion? All are admittedly purely guesses as I have not measured any of this.
Personally speaking, I hate tearing into a motor more than necessary (e.g. boring for timeserts) or even building a perfectly good stock long block. That's just me though. These things are just becoming too rare and parts aren't as plentiful as once before.
Perhaps due to the marginally bigger bore the boost PSI has higher loads on the head studs in a 3.2L. Thinner walls allow more flex in the block. Heat expansion? All are admittedly purely guesses as I have not measured any of this.
Personally speaking, I hate tearing into a motor more than necessary (e.g. boring for timeserts) or even building a perfectly good stock long block. That's just me though. These things are just becoming too rare and parts aren't as plentiful as once before.
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I have full confidence in DA's ability to rebuild my motor and the direction Shad is steering me in.There isn't 1 second guess, he's built a motor or two in his day. We have it boiled down to a finalized quote. Unfortunately I will not be doing the aftercooler yet. It just adds too much to the build right now. Final result at this time will be a full rebuild bored to about 3.2L spec, all new gaskets and seals in the motor, new coolant hoses, repainted valve covers, new expansion tank, exedy twin organic clutch, aem fuel pump, I'd 750cc injectors, and a fic for reasons I choose to be legal and legit.
The cost, you really do not want to know.... It is very easy to rack up costs on a C30 engine no matter what you hear here. But I refuse to swap a damn J motor in a Japanese classic.:biggrin:
The cost, you really do not want to know.... It is very easy to rack up costs on a C30 engine no matter what you hear here. But I refuse to swap a damn J motor in a Japanese classic.:biggrin:
Yeah, I would just put it in Shad's capable hands and let him get to it.
Really interested to hear your opinions on the Exedy twin organic clutch.
Any differences like that are negligible compared to the difference ignition timing makes on cylinder pressure. Could a tuner be the common denominator down there?
I agree with you on tearing into motors - less is better if you aren't chasing crazy high numbers. Anyone remember Ccathey? He was at 600+WHP for awhile on the stock engine. His tuner obviously knew whatever they were doing.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/94824-605-rwhp-on-Stock-Motor
Really interested to hear your opinions on the Exedy twin organic clutch.
Any differences like that are negligible compared to the difference ignition timing makes on cylinder pressure. Could a tuner be the common denominator down there?
I agree with you on tearing into motors - less is better if you aren't chasing crazy high numbers. Anyone remember Ccathey? He was at 600+WHP for awhile on the stock engine. His tuner obviously knew whatever they were doing.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/94824-605-rwhp-on-Stock-Motor
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When I changed my fueling system (when I rebuilt my engine after it pulled the head bolts out), [MENTION=4799]DDozier[/MENTION] steered me away from those ID injectors if using an FIC rather than a standalone. I know Shad likes them. I believe Dave's concern was their size (because of FIC's resolution) and characteristics (because the stock ECU is still involved). I will be interested to hear how they work out for you.
I don't think it was a tuner issue since I can think of one done by Bisimoto and the other 2 having stock CTSC tunes. Though who's to say the stock CTSC tune wasn't or didn't become faulty. Cool picture!!!
Yeah, I would just put it in Shad's capable hands and let him get to it.
Really interested to hear your opinions on the Exedy twin organic clutch.
Any differences like that are negligible compared to the difference ignition timing makes on cylinder pressure. Could a tuner be the common denominator down there?
I agree with you on tearing into motors - less is better if you aren't chasing crazy high numbers. Anyone remember Ccathey? He was at 600+WHP for awhile on the stock engine. His tuner obviously knew whatever they were doing.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/94824-605-rwhp-on-Stock-Motor
Don't paint it, wrap it. Cheaper and best to do with a black car. Harder to tell.
How many miles did you have when it blew?
Sorry man, this makes me not feel so bad that my clutch went out yesterday. At least it wasn't my motor.....
How many miles did you have when it blew?
Sorry man, this makes me not feel so bad that my clutch went out yesterday. At least it wasn't my motor.....
Sorry to hear about the motor Jinks.
I was where you are when my BBSC failed, then LF build went too, finally did the SOS stage 2 route- and haven't looked back.
Best wishes!
I was where you are when my BBSC failed, then LF build went too, finally did the SOS stage 2 route- and haven't looked back.
Best wishes!
It has about 120k miles.
Engine build thread listed here.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/200820-Jinks-engine-build-thread
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/200820-Jinks-engine-build-thread
Can't wait to see the 2.0 version!
