Semi-DIY Mild Engine Build for FI

Dave - How's it going with everything? Hope you're not enjoying the summer too much. You're suppose to be working on the NSX! :biggrin:

Bats - What's the word on your setup? Updates?

As good fortune would have it.. I may be following in both of your footsteps.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1594896


going to be ordering the EMS series 2 tomorrow from SOS and 750cc injectors.

right now I'm trying to figure out what size pulley I need to get my boost to 1 bar.
 
Bats, Great write up and pics over the last several months.

Whats your power goal? Does 1 bar =14.7psi?
 
Last edited:
Dave - How's it going with everything? Hope you're not enjoying the summer too much. You're suppose to be working on the NSX! :biggrin:

Bats - What's the word on your setup? Updates?

As good fortune would have it.. I may be following in both of your footsteps.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1594896

Been doing a little here and there on it. Not a high priority right now to me though. My engine machinist hasn't worked on the block and heads yet... Partly due to being overwhelmed (one man shop), and mostly due to health issues. I told him no worries, I'm not in a hurry. I forgot a long time ago how all the crap in my garage goes back together anyways :smile:

Nice find and good luck with your build! Unless we could have two NSX's, it's a really tough decision how to build up the engines: N/A or F/I. There's benefits and drawbacks to each method.

I guess SOS has it made with their 400HP N/A track monster and their twin turbo more streetable car :smile:
 
How's your engine running BATMANs?

I may get my block and rotating assembly back this week.



Hey, I noticed all of my pictures disappeared.:confused: I added some new ones to my gallery a few weeks ago, but everything else is gone?
 
I just spoke to them and they will be replacing my NGK Iridium plugs with NGK copper tip ones since there has been a few instances where the iridium tips came off in other cars that they worked with. :eek:

So far with timing pulled all the way back they were getting 250rwhp at 8psi (yes I did loose 2~ psi with the current pulley).

Tonight after swapping out the plugs they will start to adjust to forward the timing to where it needs to be at while keeping the AF ratios between 11.5 - 11.8 to one at full boost.

Once I have this tune I will find out what my current 550cc injectors duty cycles are and from there I can start to plan for more boost with a pulley swap.

Originally I wanted to go for 15psi, but after talking to Chris at SOS he said that my 2.1 KB blower is maxed out at 13psi.

More updates to follow.......
 
Hi, I wanted to ask this since you all have dabbled in DIY engine rebuild and balancing: have you ever considered re-using parts off a junked, inoperable NSX? If so, what parts would you consider re-useable and is it feasible to store a junkyard NSX on the side for parts?
 
Hi, I wanted to ask this since you all have dabbled in DIY engine rebuild and balancing: have you ever considered re-using parts off a junked, inoperable NSX? If so, what parts would you consider re-useable and is it feasible to store a junkyard NSX on the side for parts?

Sorry - This is the first time I've EVER taken an engine apart (not even a weedeater or lawnmower engine). I'm not really qualified to answer your question, but I'll throw my $0.02 in.

The internet is full of people going into old junked engines and finding significant corrosion or pitting damage on the internals. Specifically cylinder walls. Depends how long the engine's have been sitting, the climate (humid or near the ocean with salt vapors), and how many miles were on the engine before it sat. Of course, if you're going to resleeve ($$$) that wouldn't be an issue.

Generally, cranks are very valuable for these cars and are snatched up quickly when advertised. IMO, that's one of the most valuable parts on these. Besides the block casting, head castings, and crank, almost everything else has aftermarket support (connecting rods, pistons, camshafts, valves, springs, etc).

Dave
 
I just spoke to them and they will be replacing my NGK Iridium plugs with NGK copper tip ones since there has been a few instances where the iridium tips came off in other cars that they worked with. :eek:

So far with timing pulled all the way back they were getting 250rwhp at 8psi (yes I did loose 2~ psi with the current pulley).

Tonight after swapping out the plugs they will start to adjust to forward the timing to where it needs to be at while keeping the AF ratios between 11.5 - 11.8 to one at full boost.

Once I have this tune I will find out what my current 550cc injectors duty cycles are and from there I can start to plan for more boost with a pulley swap.

Originally I wanted to go for 15psi, but after talking to Chris at SOS he said that my 2.1 KB blower is maxed out at 13psi.

More updates to follow.......

What is the CFM per REV on the KB 2.1L Blower?
Ken
 
Just got the block and rotating assembly parts back....

First, the rotating assembly:

The crank was cleaned and micropolished.

The new pistons were put back on the OEM rods, weighed with a bit of oil and the old bearings, and then weights calculated for the rotating assembly balance. The crank was balanced twice - once alone, and then again with a new OEM harmonic dampener/crank bolt and new RPS twin carbon clutch (he permanently maintains a hard copy of the records since obviously, clutches are replaced). With the slightly lighter pistons than OEM, a few places on the crank counterweights were machined to compensate.

The clutch needed a little more work too. RPS balances it from the factory. The new balance called for a little more material removed at a different place on the flywheel:
balanced_carbon_clutch.JPG




Then the block:

The block was bored 0.020" over (0.5mm) for the Wiseco pistons, honed, decked, Timeserted, and cleaned.

However, this is where I'm a little disappointed. Cylinder #4 apparently had a sleeve casting imperfection in the piston stroke range. There was a slight cylinder imperfection when I dropped it off that I didn't notice, then got bigger as he started boring it, and then he had to go to 0.090" over to remove it. Apparently it would have been bad enough to catch and ruin that pistons oil ring if it wasn't taken care of. So, an interference sleeve was placed in that bore to compensate. Not ideal I guess, but I was assured there was no problem with the 0.007" interference fit that was achieved, and that it will last no problem :frown: This is how it looks from the bottom - from the top you can't tell another sleeve is there due to how thin it is and the bevel put on to insert the piston:

sleeve.JPG






Also, I'm disappointed how the block was treated overall. There's numerous places where edges have been gouged due to rough handling. This one in particular on a main bearing journal. This definitely needs to be smoothed before the bearing is inserted for a precise fit....

gouge.JPG





Just noticed the various gouges in the block tonight as I was examining everything in detail. New pistons, rods, and crank look perfect though. Definitely going have to go back soon and show the gouges to him and tell him to be more careful with the heads he's still got.


As I'm a newbie, I have no idea what to expect when I send this type of stuff out for work. Especially with the limited choices in my area. You hear good and bad reviews about any person no matter what they do it seems. I've even heard screwups by Benson too. Also, I may be a little more anal about this kind of stuff than another person. I just don't know.:confused:
 
... And dropped off OEM valve parts straight from Japan to the machinist. New OEM springs, spring seats, retainers, and locks. I've written previously here about my concerns on failed OEM retainers, and how I have no desire for aftermarket titanium ones and the inspection headaches associated with them. I've been reading a lot about keeper (valve lock) technology and reliability too. I just wanted new OEM parts for peace of mind on my 21YO engine with 135k hard miles. Also, I figure the first startup and idle to normal temperature just before the first oil/filter change should be sufficient to heat cycle the new springs before they're run hard.

springs_locks_retainers_seats.JPG





Reusing the valves (after cleaning and polishing of course) since they measured perfect. The guides won't be replaced either - there was no discernable wear. The old valve seats are fine to do a new OEM 3-angle grind too.

The intake and exhaust passageway head casting imperfections will be smoothed (you can really feel them), and the intake passageways in general will be cleaned (but not polished since some turbulance is necessary). The divider walls between a particular cylinders intake and exhaust valves will also be slightly sharpened. A slight blunt edge on the intake side is desirable to promote A/F mixing and atomization, and help dampen any standing wave patterns that may form. But, on the exhaust side, I'm polishing and putting a razor sharp edge on the valve divider wall. Then the heads will be cleaned and decked.

Maybe in a few weeks....
 
Dropped the block back off again at the machinist. He couldn't see how the gouges could have occurred while he was working on it, but understood my concern and said he'd make it right. So, these gouges and a few others will get chamfered, and then the bore alignment checked. Like he said, luckily the gouges don't go into the bearing seating surface (you can see the black mark where the bearing edges were in the photo above). But still.





Anyways, my 4YO daughter wanted to do something with the old NSX pistons, so we cleaned them and came up with a little garage art. My workbench is a mess :frown:

Piston_Art.JPG
 
no updates since I'm now researching on spending at least $5k on a full stereo upgrade for the NSX and some other small GTO and truck projects.

Right now my NSX is in the shop getting the Tien pulled out and the KW V3 installed.

Also, I think I will be swapping out the STMPO muffler portion ONLY with Magnaflow mufflers. Even with the larger and improved STMPO design it's still drones in my cabin where I can't enjoy my future stereo upgrade. The Magnaflow is the quiestest straight through muffler in the world thanks to the unique rock wool that they use to deaden the sound. Bad part is that it will add weight to the NSX.
 
Back
Top