Semi-DIY Mild Engine Build for FI
- Thread starter Mac Attack
- Start date
Header primary diameter and collector diameter is a function of power output. Also, the ratio of these two diameters determines the relative strength of the reflected exhaust pulse waves for scavengine effect, yet is also offset by flow losses (i.e. a larger collector diameter to primary diameter will yield better scavenging at your target RPM which is good, but will also increase your exhaust backpressure which is bad). Everything is a compromise in a street vehicle 
Since my thread turned into a Batmans/Mac Attack build, I'll go ahead and further derail it into my car build to get this ready for transport :biggrin:
Just finished block-sanding, clear-coating, and polishing the roof of my car. Like the b-pillars, Cwood1388 and I did a carbon fiber / red kevlar overlay on it. Still need to remove the tape and clean it up, but I think it came out very well. This reflection shot isn't bad at all :wink:
Thanks Chris!
Since my thread turned into a Batmans/Mac Attack build, I'll go ahead and further derail it into my car build to get this ready for transport :biggrin:
Just finished block-sanding, clear-coating, and polishing the roof of my car. Like the b-pillars, Cwood1388 and I did a carbon fiber / red kevlar overlay on it. Still need to remove the tape and clean it up, but I think it came out very well. This reflection shot isn't bad at all :wink:
Thanks Chris!
Wow! I really need to send Chris some items soon.
Regan, that took an incredible amount of time to do. I've lost track how many hours I've spent on it to get it nice and smooth! I now fully appreciate how much people charge to do a quality wrap....
I've had a lot of requests to list the parts used on my ABS delete setup:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165637
I appreciate the positive response, but have to add the following disclaimers:
1) I haven't been able to test it yet.
2) If you've changed the weight bias, braking bias, suspension moments, or F/R tire grip ratio other than OEM specs, then you definitely need to play around with bias to ensure your rear wheels lock up before the fronts do in full stops. That's why I went ahead and plumbed in a proportioning valve to the rear wheels just in case for my specific setup. I don't run TCS either, and have lightened my car about 500 lbs and wanted flexibility for future brake changes.
3) Make sure you know how to threshold brake and have practiced this extensively - preferably on a closed course away from other people, curbs, poles, etc.
So, all of the below parts were purchased at http://www.summitracing.com except for Dali's ABS delete kit. I used his distribution blocks as well as the two fittings coming directly out of the MC front and rear pistons. I also bought a new hard line to go directly from the front drivers side caliper to a distribution block, then cut off the end near the block and put an AN fitting on. There may be a few extra/unused pieces here - but one could compare the parts list to the pictures to find out what/where items are used!
Personally, you can save a lot of money by not using the 37-degree AN flares and the required conversion fittings to make everything mate up. BUT, the AN single flares are easy to make, and supposedly the AN fittings seal better over time if you take them apart often (not that I plan on it). All OEM's use the 45-degree double flare because once you make the connection - it's pretty much guaranteed to never leak for the life of the car. But, the fittings are harder to flare yourself.
Also, the 37-degree AN flare kit I bought had a really cheap tubing cutter. There's different theories on using a tubing cutter for brake lines, since the cutter effectively work-hardens the end where it will later seal on a fitting. So, I cut my tubing with a fine hack-saw, then carefully hand sanded the ends so they were square and de-burred, blew them out with compressed air, wiped them clean, and then flared them.
There's always room for improvement, so please critique or add your safety concerns. I am pretty pleased with it so far (I haven't tried it on the road yet), because it allows for access to all fittings. I made an aluminum bar that is spaced out and spans two large old-ABS bolt holes that the prop valve and distribution blocks bolt too.
FYI - my ABS worked perfectly when I took it off. I considered it more of a liability than a help when I would frequently exercise it. I would be happy to put a newer style on, but it's too much $ when I'm already used to life without ABS on this car and others. Finally, I would have liked to have used a real dual MC design with an adjustable balance beam, but my OEM MC was only a few years old and I didn't want to waste it or the time to completely redo the braking setup.
Finally, I'm not a fan of prop valves if they are loaded to the extreme. They should only be used for fine adjustements since the more they reduce line pressure, the slower they are to release too. It can make it weird on the track and street.
Dave
I've had a lot of requests to list the parts used on my ABS delete setup:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165637
I appreciate the positive response, but have to add the following disclaimers:
1) I haven't been able to test it yet.
2) If you've changed the weight bias, braking bias, suspension moments, or F/R tire grip ratio other than OEM specs, then you definitely need to play around with bias to ensure your rear wheels lock up before the fronts do in full stops. That's why I went ahead and plumbed in a proportioning valve to the rear wheels just in case for my specific setup. I don't run TCS either, and have lightened my car about 500 lbs and wanted flexibility for future brake changes.
3) Make sure you know how to threshold brake and have practiced this extensively - preferably on a closed course away from other people, curbs, poles, etc.
So, all of the below parts were purchased at http://www.summitracing.com except for Dali's ABS delete kit. I used his distribution blocks as well as the two fittings coming directly out of the MC front and rear pistons. I also bought a new hard line to go directly from the front drivers side caliper to a distribution block, then cut off the end near the block and put an AN fitting on. There may be a few extra/unused pieces here - but one could compare the parts list to the pictures to find out what/where items are used!
Personally, you can save a lot of money by not using the 37-degree AN flares and the required conversion fittings to make everything mate up. BUT, the AN single flares are easy to make, and supposedly the AN fittings seal better over time if you take them apart often (not that I plan on it). All OEM's use the 45-degree double flare because once you make the connection - it's pretty much guaranteed to never leak for the life of the car. But, the fittings are harder to flare yourself.
Also, the 37-degree AN flare kit I bought had a really cheap tubing cutter. There's different theories on using a tubing cutter for brake lines, since the cutter effectively work-hardens the end where it will later seal on a fitting. So, I cut my tubing with a fine hack-saw, then carefully hand sanded the ends so they were square and de-burred, blew them out with compressed air, wiped them clean, and then flared them.
There's always room for improvement, so please critique or add your safety concerns. I am pretty pleased with it so far (I haven't tried it on the road yet), because it allows for access to all fittings. I made an aluminum bar that is spaced out and spans two large old-ABS bolt holes that the prop valve and distribution blocks bolt too.
FYI - my ABS worked perfectly when I took it off. I considered it more of a liability than a help when I would frequently exercise it. I would be happy to put a newer style on, but it's too much $ when I'm already used to life without ABS on this car and others. Finally, I would have liked to have used a real dual MC design with an adjustable balance beam, but my OEM MC was only a few years old and I didn't want to waste it or the time to completely redo the braking setup.
Finally, I'm not a fan of prop valves if they are loaded to the extreme. They should only be used for fine adjustements since the more they reduce line pressure, the slower they are to release too. It can make it weird on the track and street.
Dave
The roof is almost finished - just need to work on the windshield edging:
Also, the engine bay has been cleaned and spray-bombed Duplicolor 500F ceramic semi-gloss black. I'm VERY pleased how this came out:
Also, the engine bay has been cleaned and spray-bombed Duplicolor 500F ceramic semi-gloss black. I'm VERY pleased how this came out:
Man hell yes!
Car is shipped to it's new home on the West coast this Friday via enclosed DAS transport! Instead of United Van moving my engine parts along with all the home stuff, I'm hurriedly trying to organize and box up/transport them myself. I don't want anything dropped without my knowledge 
More stuff cleaned... (Didn't have time to hook up the 4wheel VRH system yet on the KSports):
Rear suspension and brakes back together... Brakes bled, and parking brakes hooked up:
Car lowered back down for the first time in 11 months :biggrin:
Now I need to raise it up, remove the front lower lip, and install the rear bumper beam to make transport easier....
Dave
More stuff cleaned... (Didn't have time to hook up the 4wheel VRH system yet on the KSports):
Rear suspension and brakes back together... Brakes bled, and parking brakes hooked up:
Car lowered back down for the first time in 11 months :biggrin:
Now I need to raise it up, remove the front lower lip, and install the rear bumper beam to make transport easier....
Dave
did I hear "West Coast"?
Oregon coast.
Man my car is a dirty disgrace compared to yours. I feel like I should get out to the garage right now with a bottle of cleaner and a toothbrush.
Things are finally settling down, and the NSX (with all of it's pieces I hope) is in the garage.
The engine should be ready for reassembly. However, when I had the machine shop do all of the engine work, I should have explicitly told him I wanted the crank gallery balls removed, passageways cleaned, and then drilled/tapped/loctited plugs installed. Ideally, this would have been done before balancing, but oh well.
Because the crank was only micropolished and one small section drilled for balancing, there shouldn't be any machining contamination in the passageways. Part of me says to just brush it internally as much as possible, spray a few cans of brake cleaner in there, and wipe it out with cotton swabs until clean. Another part of me says to just go ahead and have a machine shop drill and TIG the old balls out, thoroughly clean any crud in ALL of the passageways, and put new plugs in. Then, because I'm anal, I'd weigh the old stuff and the new plugs to see the weight difference and decide if rebalancing needs to be done....
Same with the heads. I should have had the oil galleries opened and cleaned BEFORE everything was reassembled.
The nearest major city is now Portland Oregon, so I need to start checking into who I can have do this work for me. I can clean the heads, but I'm not removing the plugs from the crank. I'll have someone experienced work on this expensive crank.
Anyone have recommendations please for an engine machinist in the Portland area?
Thanks,
Dave
The engine should be ready for reassembly. However, when I had the machine shop do all of the engine work, I should have explicitly told him I wanted the crank gallery balls removed, passageways cleaned, and then drilled/tapped/loctited plugs installed. Ideally, this would have been done before balancing, but oh well.
Because the crank was only micropolished and one small section drilled for balancing, there shouldn't be any machining contamination in the passageways. Part of me says to just brush it internally as much as possible, spray a few cans of brake cleaner in there, and wipe it out with cotton swabs until clean. Another part of me says to just go ahead and have a machine shop drill and TIG the old balls out, thoroughly clean any crud in ALL of the passageways, and put new plugs in. Then, because I'm anal, I'd weigh the old stuff and the new plugs to see the weight difference and decide if rebalancing needs to be done....
Same with the heads. I should have had the oil galleries opened and cleaned BEFORE everything was reassembled.
The nearest major city is now Portland Oregon, so I need to start checking into who I can have do this work for me. I can clean the heads, but I'm not removing the plugs from the crank. I'll have someone experienced work on this expensive crank.
Anyone have recommendations please for an engine machinist in the Portland area?
Thanks,
Dave
Finally... Getting back to work on this engine!
Unboxed a few engine parts last weekend. Had the valve covers and a few other things sent off locally for powdercoating. Rebuilt all motor/transmission mounts with shore A 55 durometer polyurethane. Dropped the gas tank and cleaned everything (replacing the pump, filter, fpr, lines, and rails with all custom stuff). Bought another boxload of OEM parts from my friends at Acura of Augusta to make sure I have all the miscellaneous OEM parts I'll need to put this back together.
As I was filing receipts, I noticed an old one from the engine machinist. Specifically, it was for the dry sleeve I had installed. Rather than repeat it again here, this is a link of the process/sleeve he used:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/170310-Dry-sleeving-a-3-0l?p=1686043#post1686043
One thing I started tonight was radiusing/chamfering my old main caps. With my modest HP goal of no more than ~550 at the crank, I didn't think aftermarket caps were necessary. Going to aftermarket caps would have required a line bore and customized selection of main bearings. Something that would have greatly increased the cost as well as keeping me from installing the crank myself.
I've seen various pictures of cracked OEM caps, and they were all split down the oil galley. So, the engineer in me said to radius all edges of the caps (especially the oil galley) to reduce the stress risers. If you've ever handled the OEM caps, you know all of the machined edges are SHARP! A quick internet search confirmed this was a smart thing to do and is usually done on detailed performance builds (like how I blueprinted my block).
Using a small file and 600 grit sandpaper, I VERY CAREFULLY chamfered all of the edges, even holes. Then I carefully went over everything with the sandpaper to radius the edges. In reality, this is pretty hard stuff and you'd really have to bear down on it with the file to screw up one of the machined surfaces. Also, you don't need to remove much material - you don't want to reduce seating surface area.
For the first cap, it took me about 1.5 hours to do this. Hopefully you can tell which one I worked on:
Jeez, how do you paste a picture in from your gallery? Guess I haven't been on here in awhile....
Link:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=48880
That's it for now. I need to do the other three caps, clean my crank oil galleys, then the block one last time before I can begin reassembly.
Getting close!
Unboxed a few engine parts last weekend. Had the valve covers and a few other things sent off locally for powdercoating. Rebuilt all motor/transmission mounts with shore A 55 durometer polyurethane. Dropped the gas tank and cleaned everything (replacing the pump, filter, fpr, lines, and rails with all custom stuff). Bought another boxload of OEM parts from my friends at Acura of Augusta to make sure I have all the miscellaneous OEM parts I'll need to put this back together.
As I was filing receipts, I noticed an old one from the engine machinist. Specifically, it was for the dry sleeve I had installed. Rather than repeat it again here, this is a link of the process/sleeve he used:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/170310-Dry-sleeving-a-3-0l?p=1686043#post1686043
One thing I started tonight was radiusing/chamfering my old main caps. With my modest HP goal of no more than ~550 at the crank, I didn't think aftermarket caps were necessary. Going to aftermarket caps would have required a line bore and customized selection of main bearings. Something that would have greatly increased the cost as well as keeping me from installing the crank myself.
I've seen various pictures of cracked OEM caps, and they were all split down the oil galley. So, the engineer in me said to radius all edges of the caps (especially the oil galley) to reduce the stress risers. If you've ever handled the OEM caps, you know all of the machined edges are SHARP! A quick internet search confirmed this was a smart thing to do and is usually done on detailed performance builds (like how I blueprinted my block).
Using a small file and 600 grit sandpaper, I VERY CAREFULLY chamfered all of the edges, even holes. Then I carefully went over everything with the sandpaper to radius the edges. In reality, this is pretty hard stuff and you'd really have to bear down on it with the file to screw up one of the machined surfaces. Also, you don't need to remove much material - you don't want to reduce seating surface area.
For the first cap, it took me about 1.5 hours to do this. Hopefully you can tell which one I worked on:
Jeez, how do you paste a picture in from your gallery? Guess I haven't been on here in awhile....
Link:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=48880
That's it for now. I need to do the other three caps, clean my crank oil galleys, then the block one last time before I can begin reassembly.
Getting close!
Last edited:
Got a major task accomplished: Valve covers done and the PCV system planned and purchased. Just have to get the engine installed before I can finish the PCV and Crankcase Evacuation System plumbing.
First, I had to modify the valvecovers. I removed the baffle plates underneath, and then chemically stripped them. I didn't want to blast and risk grit getting into all of the crevices and porous magnesium. So, after a lot of stripping and brushing, I ended up with these:
The bottom. Well, these obviously didn't need to be stripped, but they were cleaned. You can see the hole drilled with a Uni-bit to accept the 8AN bulkhead 90 degree forged fitting. You can't see it, but I drilled out/tapped/plugged the OEM PCV source with a 1/8" NPT aluminum plug.
The tops. I tried to file some of the edges. After you finish cleaning, you should really passivate the magnesium chemically to avoid future corrosion and prepare the surface for further treatment. After doing a lot of researching on aerospace and magnesium forums, I was able to do this at home. A little dangerous... you can see the top one has been treated here. It prevents corrosion and helps paint or powdercoating to adhere to. It also eliminates the baking step some people do to "outgas" the magnesium. It's basically the DOW19 process if people want to study it more on their own.
After they were passivated, I decided to do the Duplicolor Mirage paint. First, I applied the Duplicolor high heat lacquer primer and sanded. After a week, I did the enamel Mirage color steps. Went with the red/blue/purple color. Think it will contrast well with my black engine bay. After ~1.5 weeks of the Mirage paint drying, I sprayed them with the Duplicolor high-heat ceramic clear lacquer for more protection and to wet-sand the surface. I like how they turned out, and I think I'm even going to leave the coil covers the OEM color.
Here's the finished product along with the components from my custom PCV system. After evaluating header evac systems, electric vacuum pumps, and pretty much every air/oil separator available, I went with the OEM vaccum-based system to recirculate for the N/A setup with these Moroso air/oil separators. I can use the OEM PCV setup with these for my N/A break-in, and also for the future twin turbo build with some modification (how the OEM's have their PCV system setup on FI'd vehicles) to enable an effective crankcase evacuation. Should be sweet, and far superior to just a catch-can setup since it will circulate any small blow-by and help ensure clean oil.
In the background you can see the dropped gas tank. That's the next little project before I start reassembling the engine. Grass pollen has finally started to die down after a killer season so the air is cleaning up a bit finally.
First, I had to modify the valvecovers. I removed the baffle plates underneath, and then chemically stripped them. I didn't want to blast and risk grit getting into all of the crevices and porous magnesium. So, after a lot of stripping and brushing, I ended up with these:
The bottom. Well, these obviously didn't need to be stripped, but they were cleaned. You can see the hole drilled with a Uni-bit to accept the 8AN bulkhead 90 degree forged fitting. You can't see it, but I drilled out/tapped/plugged the OEM PCV source with a 1/8" NPT aluminum plug.
The tops. I tried to file some of the edges. After you finish cleaning, you should really passivate the magnesium chemically to avoid future corrosion and prepare the surface for further treatment. After doing a lot of researching on aerospace and magnesium forums, I was able to do this at home. A little dangerous... you can see the top one has been treated here. It prevents corrosion and helps paint or powdercoating to adhere to. It also eliminates the baking step some people do to "outgas" the magnesium. It's basically the DOW19 process if people want to study it more on their own.
After they were passivated, I decided to do the Duplicolor Mirage paint. First, I applied the Duplicolor high heat lacquer primer and sanded. After a week, I did the enamel Mirage color steps. Went with the red/blue/purple color. Think it will contrast well with my black engine bay. After ~1.5 weeks of the Mirage paint drying, I sprayed them with the Duplicolor high-heat ceramic clear lacquer for more protection and to wet-sand the surface. I like how they turned out, and I think I'm even going to leave the coil covers the OEM color.
Here's the finished product along with the components from my custom PCV system. After evaluating header evac systems, electric vacuum pumps, and pretty much every air/oil separator available, I went with the OEM vaccum-based system to recirculate for the N/A setup with these Moroso air/oil separators. I can use the OEM PCV setup with these for my N/A break-in, and also for the future twin turbo build with some modification (how the OEM's have their PCV system setup on FI'd vehicles) to enable an effective crankcase evacuation. Should be sweet, and far superior to just a catch-can setup since it will circulate any small blow-by and help ensure clean oil.
In the background you can see the dropped gas tank. That's the next little project before I start reassembling the engine. Grass pollen has finally started to die down after a killer season so the air is cleaning up a bit finally.
Just a question because maybe I missed it?
The rear valve cover usually has a nipple coming out. I don't see that on yours but I see you tapped them with bulkhead fittings. Did you cut and plug the oem nipple?
And do you have any close up pictures of where you drilled in from the rear? I'll be doing this hopefully sometime soon and shipping them to Lithumus for powder coating.
The rear valve cover usually has a nipple coming out. I don't see that on yours but I see you tapped them with bulkhead fittings. Did you cut and plug the oem nipple?
And do you have any close up pictures of where you drilled in from the rear? I'll be doing this hopefully sometime soon and shipping them to Lithumus for powder coating.
I guess you could remove the nipple, but it's pressed in pretty good. I just cut it off, drilled, tapped, and am using a black aluminum 1/8" NPT plug (plug not pictured since it's on backorder). The remainder of the plug will never work loose, and even if it did, it would be constrained within the baffle.
The baffle is back on so no pics underneath. The cover was not tapped for the bulkhead - it's too thin to be tapped. However, I slightly filed a flat spot on the outside of the cover so the fitting would sit flush and seal with the Teflon washer. It's still plenty strong. I have another washer on the inside between the cover and the bulkhead nut slightly filed to take the curvature and allow the nut to be torqued properly. Just be careful placing it, and I used plenty of oil when slowly drilling (and anytime I was filing the magnesium) just to be safe. This was done outside too. Be careful with the magnesium and filings.
Here's a closeup on the outside. Fittings are Russell 661263 with the bottom AN flare section cut off to shorten them inside the cover. Plenty of space between the ends and the baffle plates.
Oh, and when the swivel female AN to nipple fitting is removed, I can still access the valve cover bolt.
Last edited:
Thank you. It's taking me forever though with young kids and travelling almost every weekend. Might be moving in the next few months so I have a renewed interest in finishing this thing.
My fuel parts have almost all arrived. Goodridge Kevlar-braided Teflon lined hose, new Denso Supra pump, Comptech rails, Fuelab FPR and filter, a 100 psig fuel pressure sender and fuel temperature sender for data logging on the AEM S2, a bunch of fittings, Teflon-lined in-tank wiring for the amp-sucking pump with a leak-proof sender fitting, and a completely new fuel pump wiring setup. Everything except the in-tank sender hard lines are now a minimum of 6AN.
I'll break this engine in with the OEM injectors and OEM ECU, and then it will have ID1000's to fuel the twin turbos.
I modified the pickup (picture below). Just above the sender supply is the old electrical penetration drilled out for the new Viton-sealed electrical bulkhead fitting. Still waiting for more miscellaneous fittings and then I can start putting it all together and get the tank back in the car:
My fuel parts have almost all arrived. Goodridge Kevlar-braided Teflon lined hose, new Denso Supra pump, Comptech rails, Fuelab FPR and filter, a 100 psig fuel pressure sender and fuel temperature sender for data logging on the AEM S2, a bunch of fittings, Teflon-lined in-tank wiring for the amp-sucking pump with a leak-proof sender fitting, and a completely new fuel pump wiring setup. Everything except the in-tank sender hard lines are now a minimum of 6AN.
I'll break this engine in with the OEM injectors and OEM ECU, and then it will have ID1000's to fuel the twin turbos.
I modified the pickup (picture below). Just above the sender supply is the old electrical penetration drilled out for the new Viton-sealed electrical bulkhead fitting. Still waiting for more miscellaneous fittings and then I can start putting it all together and get the tank back in the car:
Those are some serious parts Dave. I'm jealous!
Have you been able to verify if the CT rails fit the same as stock? Are those the CTSC rails or did CT make specific ones for the OEM Manifold also? The last I looked the CT rails were slightly different than stock but I did not look too closely. I know the orientation of the injectors in the CT IM isn't quite optimal due to space constraint issues.
Have you been able to verify if the CT rails fit the same as stock? Are those the CTSC rails or did CT make specific ones for the OEM Manifold also? The last I looked the CT rails were slightly different than stock but I did not look too closely. I know the orientation of the injectors in the CT IM isn't quite optimal due to space constraint issues.
Don't forget to ceramic coat the rails since it seems to be a problem with being heat soaked.....
What? You're jealous?! I'm jealous you've been able to enjoy your sweet ride and mine's been in pieces these past two years :smile:
I remember you asking about the fitment. I should have asked you for some pictures and a few measurements before purchasing these, but I took a risk. At the very least, I only cared about the bore spacing. Otherwise, I assumed I would have to fab up some mounting adapter to make it work on the OEM manifold. These were the cheapest aftermarket rails I could find, and of nice quality too. I still need to find the big box with the intake manifold inside and see what I'll need to do to make these fit!
Hey, thanks. Those are the Comptech fuel rails that come with their supercharger kit, but I bought them separately. SOS might be able to sell you their ITB-setup fuel rails that you could adapt for your application, but I never checked with them.
I'm very surprised how hot Regans are and will be following that thread. Did you report your specific supercharged fuel rail temp measurements, hint, hint?
I've got the same thermo tool and will be getting my NSX back after that main relay was replaced.
Should we have a standard on doing this?
Drive it easy? or idle? when to take the temp?
Right now we are having a heat wave, so the numbers will be high.
I'll follow up on this on the other thread. Let's consolidate fuel rail heat issues over there if you guys don't mind.
Worked on the car a bit today.
Cleaned the alternator bracket:
Finished the fuel sender. Make sure you use a new rubber gasket between this and the tank. Mine didn't look like it would reseal very well if I reused it:
This has the Denso Supra pump, four 14ga Teflon-coated in-tank power wires, and a sealed bulkhead connector setup. Don't buy the Denso pump "kit" for the Supra - buy the pump separately. The filter that comes with the kit won't fit correctly in the baffled tank section. I just bought the Autozone replacement in-tank filter (about $20). Also, I used an Earl's 5/16" ferruled fitting for the return. This is only good for 50 psi which is more than enough for the low pressure return. The sender fitting is an Earls 10mmx1.25 6AN fitting with a stat-o-seal.
I'm using quality Ancor terminals with a mil-spec Thomas-Betts crimper. I have a lot of crimping ahead.... Technically, you shouldn't put solder on the ends of the crimp since it thermally relaxes the metal crimp and weakens the mechanical connection, but I did it to ensure the electrical connection. This should be good enough:
Cleaned and finished tank assembly.
At this point, I just need to work on the Teflon fuel lines:
Once I finish more cleaning I'll start reassembling the engine... probably in a few weeks.
Cleaned the alternator bracket:
Finished the fuel sender. Make sure you use a new rubber gasket between this and the tank. Mine didn't look like it would reseal very well if I reused it:
This has the Denso Supra pump, four 14ga Teflon-coated in-tank power wires, and a sealed bulkhead connector setup. Don't buy the Denso pump "kit" for the Supra - buy the pump separately. The filter that comes with the kit won't fit correctly in the baffled tank section. I just bought the Autozone replacement in-tank filter (about $20). Also, I used an Earl's 5/16" ferruled fitting for the return. This is only good for 50 psi which is more than enough for the low pressure return. The sender fitting is an Earls 10mmx1.25 6AN fitting with a stat-o-seal.
I'm using quality Ancor terminals with a mil-spec Thomas-Betts crimper. I have a lot of crimping ahead.... Technically, you shouldn't put solder on the ends of the crimp since it thermally relaxes the metal crimp and weakens the mechanical connection, but I did it to ensure the electrical connection. This should be good enough:
Cleaned and finished tank assembly.
At this point, I just need to work on the Teflon fuel lines:
Once I finish more cleaning I'll start reassembling the engine... probably in a few weeks.
Similar threads
