Semi-DIY Mild Engine Build for FI

I think I forgot the pics of the pistons in this thread.

OEM versus Wiseco custom built to my specs.

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Some photos of the shop
 

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Short videos at the shop today:

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I need to sneak in here with a question of my own, since this thread seems to be going so well. I'm working on an engine rebuild for my 2001 Prelude. I also have a 1999 NSX which I plan to work on next. The Prelude is the practice car. They both have FRM cylinder walls.

I need to check whether the FRM cylinder walls need honing, and if they do, where is a good place to get them done, preferably in SoCal, but I am willing to ship if justified.

Sorry - can't help you there. Look at Rob's brief writeup on the block here:
http://ojas.net/nsx/mirror/dal#Block

Maybe ask Autowave for their recommendation. I have buddies that do dirt bike racing and they are always telling me about cylinder plating screwups.

Good luck.

Dave
 
My machinist said he would balance mine twice - dampener, crank, rods, pistons, pins, bearings, and some oil, and then he'd do it again with the RPS carbon clutch (since clutches get changed) to confirm. Since the RPS carbon is balanced from the factory, I'm not expecting there to be any real difference. This will be to within 0.5 gm.


Oh, even though your harmonic dampener looked OK, you are going to replace it, right?
 
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Does the NSX one fail more than the other cars? I reused the GTO and rx7 on past rebuilds with no issues

They fail with age, like the rest of us. If you have it in the budget the ATI piece is a good way to go as they are rebuildable. The belt driven SC's are more prone to failure do to the added stress, but the real issue is the rubber isolator in the pulley drys out over time and it will seperate into pieces. The pulley will then either move in towards the timing cover and eat through that then the belt then BOOM, or it will move away from the block and throw the belt off.

Dave
 
They fail with age, like the rest of us. If you have it in the budget the ATI piece is a good way to go as they are rebuildable. The belt driven SC's are more prone to failure do to the added stress, but the real issue is the rubber isolator in the pulley drys out over time and it will seperate into pieces. The pulley will then either move in towards the timing cover and eat through that then the belt then BOOM, or it will move away from the block and throw the belt off.

Dave

I have titanium Dave plate that prevents it from derailing the belt should that occur. My shop said that here in California mild climate he's rarely seen any of these go bad in other cars.

He noted that the most common reason for the accelerated wear and tear comes from oil getting on them such as a valve cover leak which I never had. The analogy is tantamount to not using Vaseline with latex condoms.:biggrin:
 
I have titanium Dave plate that prevents it from derailing the belt should that occur. My shop said that here in California mild climate he's rarely seen any of these go bad in other cars.

He noted that the most common reason for the accelerated wear and tear comes from oil getting on them such as a valve cover leak which I never had. The analogy is tantamount to not using Vaseline with latex condoms.:biggrin:

There is more truth to your analogy than you know as when the condom breaks you can be in a similar place as if the ballancer breaks, but good to hear you have Dave's little armor plate in case it fails. Remember some of these cars ballancers are going on 21 years that is a long time for rubber to last no matter how good the climate is.

Dave
 
There is more truth to your analogy than you know as when the condom breaks you can be in a similar place as if the ballancer breaks, but good to hear you have Dave's little armor plate in case it fails. Remember some of these cars ballancers are going on 21 years that is a long time for rubber to last no matter how good the climate is.

Dave

Again, just like condoms :biggrin:

Look at it this way - It's only $100 for a new OEM balancer that will probably last you another 15 years. I gave my machinist a new OEM harmonic balancer to include in his overall rotating assembly balance job.

Dave
 
Again, just like condoms :biggrin:

Look at it this way - It's only $100 for a new OEM balancer that will probably last you another 15 years. I gave my machinist a new OEM harmonic balancer to include in his overall rotating assembly balance job.

Dave

$100?! I thought it was much more.

Got a part# and best price?
 
13811-PR7-A02, ~$215, Acura of Augusta is where I get all of my OEM parts.

I thought about the ATI, but just didn't end up buying it. 90-degree V6's have unique crankshaft harmonic modes and the OEM one seems to work OK....

Dave
 
Finally the block is being assembled.

If there aren't any distractions from other customers (mostly drop-ins) then I may have a finished block in 1-2 weeks.

I'm looking forward to getting a video of the flowbench process and getting the results of the CFMs from the mild porting (more like cleaning up the ports). I heard there is a loud "whoosh".

I'll post that up as well.

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Just for show my engine builder recommended that I buy this can from Walmart for spraying the outside of the block with clear gloss. This is after 3-coats.

Makes my pressure washing easier since it should help makes the oil grime slide off more easily and help protect against aany cleaning agents that might not agree with the aluminum.

He's been pretty happy with the results over the years.

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Again, just like condoms :biggrin:

Look at it this way - It's only $100 for a new OEM balancer that will probably last you another 15 years. I gave my machinist a new OEM harmonic balancer to include in his overall rotating assembly balance job.

Dave

They fail with age, like the rest of us. If you have it in the budget the ATI piece is a good way to go as they are rebuildable. The belt driven SC's are more prone to failure do to the added stress, but the real issue is the rubber isolator in the pulley drys out over time and it will seperate into pieces. The pulley will then either move in towards the timing cover and eat through that then the belt then BOOM, or it will move away from the block and throw the belt off.

Dave

I have titanium Dave plate that prevents it from derailing the belt should that occur. My shop said that here in California mild climate he's rarely seen any of these go bad in other cars.

He noted that the most common reason for the accelerated wear and tear comes from oil getting on them such as a valve cover leak which I never had. The analogy is tantamount to not using Vaseline with latex condoms.:biggrin:

There is more truth to your analogy than you know as when the condom breaks you can be in a similar place as if the ballancer breaks, but good to hear you have Dave's little armor plate in case it fails. Remember some of these cars ballancers are going on 21 years that is a long time for rubber to last no matter how good the climate is.

Dave



Everyone is 100% correct about the oem part breaking... how it breaks... how to protect it... ect ect...

but realize that ati isn’t making a their pulley to replace the oem part because it breaks.. its an added feature yes.. But the main benefit is constant balance gained at all times.

for the difference in price.. I’ve seen money spent on both batmans and mac's builds that would be inferior to the money spent elsewhere.

both are killer builds dont get me wrong.. I just think the focus of why to get an Ati dampner has been directed on the oem part breaking and not the ati reasoning.

Its the gain of having your rotating assembly balanced better and much longer.. with minumal vibration compared to the oem part.. the tolerences are tighter.

Vibration is the number two cause of engine failure after numero uno - oil starvation

nice builds all of you.. going above and beyond for sure... I'd point you in the ATI direction if asked.

My $.02
 
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