I was at the shop today and someone dropped off 2 Indy engines making 14k RPMs off for some work.
I should have photos of the rotating assembly being balanced tomorrow.
I need to sneak in here with a question of my own, since this thread seems to be going so well. I'm working on an engine rebuild for my 2001 Prelude. I also have a 1999 NSX which I plan to work on next. The Prelude is the practice car. They both have FRM cylinder walls.
I need to check whether the FRM cylinder walls need honing, and if they do, where is a good place to get them done, preferably in SoCal, but I am willing to ship if justified.
so what compression ratio have you opted for the wiseco pistons?
Thanks for posting all those videos Batmans, very helpful!
Dave
Oh, even though your harmonic dampener looked OK, you are going to replace it, right?
Why would he do that?
Because to do it later would cause too much time and trouble.
Does the NSX one fail more than the other cars? I reused the GTO and rx7 on past rebuilds with no issues
They fail with age, like the rest of us. If you have it in the budget the ATI piece is a good way to go as they are rebuildable. The belt driven SC's are more prone to failure do to the added stress, but the real issue is the rubber isolator in the pulley drys out over time and it will seperate into pieces. The pulley will then either move in towards the timing cover and eat through that then the belt then BOOM, or it will move away from the block and throw the belt off.
Dave
I have titanium Dave plate that prevents it from derailing the belt should that occur. My shop said that here in California mild climate he's rarely seen any of these go bad in other cars.
He noted that the most common reason for the accelerated wear and tear comes from oil getting on them such as a valve cover leak which I never had. The analogy is tantamount to not using Vaseline with latex condoms.:biggrin:
There is more truth to your analogy than you know as when the condom breaks you can be in a similar place as if the ballancer breaks, but good to hear you have Dave's little armor plate in case it fails. Remember some of these cars ballancers are going on 21 years that is a long time for rubber to last no matter how good the climate is.
Dave
Again, just like condoms :biggrin:
Look at it this way - It's only $100 for a new OEM balancer that will probably last you another 15 years. I gave my machinist a new OEM harmonic balancer to include in his overall rotating assembly balance job.
Dave
Again, just like condoms :biggrin:
Look at it this way - It's only $100 for a new OEM balancer that will probably last you another 15 years. I gave my machinist a new OEM harmonic balancer to include in his overall rotating assembly balance job.
Dave
They fail with age, like the rest of us. If you have it in the budget the ATI piece is a good way to go as they are rebuildable. The belt driven SC's are more prone to failure do to the added stress, but the real issue is the rubber isolator in the pulley drys out over time and it will seperate into pieces. The pulley will then either move in towards the timing cover and eat through that then the belt then BOOM, or it will move away from the block and throw the belt off.
Dave
I have titanium Dave plate that prevents it from derailing the belt should that occur. My shop said that here in California mild climate he's rarely seen any of these go bad in other cars.
He noted that the most common reason for the accelerated wear and tear comes from oil getting on them such as a valve cover leak which I never had. The analogy is tantamount to not using Vaseline with latex condoms.:biggrin:
There is more truth to your analogy than you know as when the condom breaks you can be in a similar place as if the ballancer breaks, but good to hear you have Dave's little armor plate in case it fails. Remember some of these cars ballancers are going on 21 years that is a long time for rubber to last no matter how good the climate is.
Dave