same here. let's hook up
RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread
- Thread starter RYU
- Start date
Roman, you know you're welcome to drive my car anytime. My problem has always been my seat rails. Folks under say... 5'9" have a tough time reaching the pedals unless they have long legs. My rails don't go forward far enough. It's been on the to-do list for years. You might be fine though?Can I finally drive both? I'll be that second opinion guy
Great stuff, thanks for sharing Regan.
I might have mentioned the problem in one of the uploaded videos...
https://youtu.be/1QEQTg8KrCQ
for sure. let's do itThanks, yeah I'm 6 and I bet I'll fit great in thereIn SB late May, we should catch up.
SF seems like a great place to dial in your suspension!
Updating this thread with great wiki info.
Here's a list compiled by Daniel of Brake Bias info.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Md7HVhRYLOXSUss33SDVwJauQ78AG85X3-epo2Kzprs/edit#gid=0
Here's a list compiled by Daniel of Brake Bias info.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Md7HVhRYLOXSUss33SDVwJauQ78AG85X3-epo2Kzprs/edit#gid=0
It's been a while so thought i'd update at least with a pic!
Sort of a Vance Hu black Type-R look. Nice!
It's been a while!
Haven't touch the NSX much as i've just been racking up the miles on it. However, this winter i've got some big revamps planned.
I started with the Quick Ratio EPS (or EPAS) steering rack. Brilliant mod.
https://youtu.be/qcpDs-0Ef4s
Haven't touch the NSX much as i've just been racking up the miles on it. However, this winter i've got some big revamps planned.
I started with the Quick Ratio EPS (or EPAS) steering rack. Brilliant mod.
https://youtu.be/qcpDs-0Ef4s
I'm also placing a couple of links to useful/simple suspension tuning guides. They're really bookmarks for me but maybe some of you will find them helpful. I'll be changing the weight balance of my car significantly, alignment, and ride height so i'm going to tuning the suspension tuning all over again.
This is pertaining to 2-way adjustable shocks only. In my case the JRZ RS Pro 2 with Rebound and Compression adjustments.
1. Set Comp and Rebound to full soft
2. Adjust Compression first: Set to full soft then + 1 click to hard. Increase until car becomes harsh, loses tire compliance and traction.
3. Adjust Rebound second: From full soft + 1 click to hard... increase until car becomes skittish or the rear wheels hop under braking.
Fine tune using the charts below.
Here are some other quick start guides:
This is pertaining to 2-way adjustable shocks only. In my case the JRZ RS Pro 2 with Rebound and Compression adjustments.
1. Set Comp and Rebound to full soft
2. Adjust Compression first: Set to full soft then + 1 click to hard. Increase until car becomes harsh, loses tire compliance and traction.
3. Adjust Rebound second: From full soft + 1 click to hard... increase until car becomes skittish or the rear wheels hop under braking.
Fine tune using the charts below.
Here are some other quick start guides:
I know - It's an EV conversion! That'll be sweet!
"Big revamps"? ITB and cams per chance? 
More like Nitrogen in tires and finally going synthetic oil!"Big revamps"? ITB and cams per chance?
I've been doing a poor job of documenting. My latest proof of concept appears to be working so now begins the NA motor build. I won't have a lot of the nitty gritty details on here in regards to the engine build as i've decided my pals at HQ Engineering will be building this engine. I know myself.. i'd probably spend the same amount on just buying the right tools and it will take me 100x the time.
I have learned a sh*t ton in regards to engine tuning and ITBs in general. I plan to share my findings here.
I have learned a sh*t ton in regards to engine tuning and ITBs in general. I plan to share my findings here.
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First of all great seeing a bunch of new and old faces (screenames?) back on nsxprime!
What's changed with the NSX in a year? Let's see...
* Sold CTSC & Meth setup
* Sold BBK
* Installed S2K AP1/CR Quick Ratio EPS (thanks @nsxmugen!)
* Installed prototype ITBs
* Learned a thing or two about engine tuning via the HKS V-Pro
Many have asked why I sold the CTSC setup. Here are my reasons and you don't have to agree.
* After nearly 10 yrs of having a sorted setup I was beginning to get bored and needed a "project" again. #firstworldproblems
* The extra belt tension on the crank bearings never really sat well with me
* Driving a Forced Inducted car in my new area was just too much. My RPMs tended to be low. I missed the songs of VTEC
* I wanted to figure out what exactly were the annoyances of previous ITB setups and find solutions to them
* Building an NA motor is hard. So why not... HA! It's so gangster IF done right.
* I wanted a forever mod (famous last words)
What's planned...
* ITBs custom everything but using aftermarket Jenvey throttles for now. Want AT Power if I could ever afford a set
I've currently gotten the ITBs to run satisfactorily on my stock 3.0L. Albeit, it's a bit tired of a stock engine I think but it still held 210-220 psi on a compression test. I'm working with Adnan from @A.S. Motorsports on a brand new ITB design. Manifolds are CNC'd (not cast) and incorporate the primary injector location where we wanted. I'll be working on a secondary injector placement and he'll be working on a DBW setup for it once we get my prototype setup nailed - we're close. Currently still working with him on testing throttle linkages and specifically the progressivity and pedal feel. I want it to feel stock+. We're on our 5th version of this but the "feel" is almost just right IMO. I'm 3D printing that pulley as I type this. I'm also weighing the option of running the IACV or not. I get +2 to 5 in/hg of added vacuum w/o it for some reason so i've got some troubleshooting to do there. Runs fine w/ or w/o it but it's nice to have that added cold idle performance. I'll figure that out soon. Will likely need to rewire the V-Pro so I have control over the IACV. Right now.. it still runs off the factory ECU which adds to the inconsistencies.
I have to find a 0-5V barometer sensor. What are you guys using?
Here's how it's running now. Hopefully this video will somewhat make up for the lack of photos!
https://youtu.be/9Y6-7gqMXxk
I've had one dyno session but that was primarily to get my base map sorted. At the time it felt like a gargantuan task to build a base map from scratch, but having done it, it was such a gratifying experience. I don't think I could ever explain properly the feeling of accomplishment just getting the car to idle. The learning curve got much easier from there. Using ITBs it's best to use Alpha N as the primary load table... as easy as that may sound on the surface, I found it challenging to hone in on an acceptable configuration just to be able to drive it to the dyno. There were so many "moving parts". I'm happy to share what I learned for anyone interested in getting ITBs setup for this car. Once we nail down the throttle linkages I've got another dyno session planned. This time i'll be tuning for power. On that note, I'm using the HKS Knock Amp to listen for knock via earphones. I was shocked to find out not much has really changed with modern ECUs in this regard? The knock sensor/transducers basically produce a signal which the amplifier converts to audio. It sounds like Cicadas on a summer day with the occasional small rocks being shaken in a tin can loudy, which apparently resembles knock. There's varying degrees of interpretation and it's more confusing than i'm making it out to be. I can see where experience really comes into play here to get the most out of a motor SAFELY. They dyno will help. Anyway, I have to configure the HKS Knock Amp better to fine tune it but not knowing exactly what knock sounds like in the C30A I've got my timing pretty conservative I reckon. I believe my tuner friend configured this knock amp with baseline settings so it's somewhat usable. I'll need the torque curve on the dyno to validate this further. Street tuning is pretty much done for me just a few adjustments here and there.
I had lofty dreams of installing a DBW and secondary injectors from the get-go. DBW would allow much better tuning of throttle progressivity theoretically and I would save a bunch of time R&D'ing these pulleys. The ITB hardware can have provisions for it, but my V-Pro needs 2 separate add-on modules that I can no longer source/buy. So if I wanted to add either of these features I'd have to swap ECU's entirely it seems, OR add some kind of "7th injector" configuration that isn't managed per cylinder per say. I wonder how effective this will be... Seems like a band aid solution honestly though this is how I add more fuel in my TRD Supercharged Tacoma and it's been fine for a decade. Big bummer if I had to get rid of the HKS because I've come to really appreciate this platform despite it being old school. There's a lot of drivability aids built into the ECU for it being so old. I also purchased a set of adjustable height velocity stacks, but the problem I'm encountering is a physical fitment limitation. I can either use 80+mm or <45mm stacks. Nothing in between because of contact with the rear strut bar. The right choice is to custom fab a new RSTB but talk about sliding down a slippery slope. I also need to prioritize a CF airbox for this. As orgasmic as it sounds.. it's just borderline too loud at WOT. I'm also noticing in-town IATs of 115-130+F. That's just a waste of power IMO. I'm hoping a CF airbox will solve the IAT and volume problem.
General Updates:
* I still like the S2K QR rack. You do lose a little bit of micro feel but the QR is very welcomed in the tight canyons I frequent. I'm not selling my OEM manual rack in case I want to go back
* I might try RDX primary injectors in the ITB setup. I'm currently using ID1000's and they're surprisingly good but on the stock motor I'm only using 2-15%'ish duty cycle
* 3.5L engine build getting sorted now. @HQ Engineering will build that for me but we're still in discussions about possible cams, CR, and other things. It's going to take some time for this project because we want to do it right
* Suspension wise... Swapped back to NSX-R spring rates. My roads where I live now aren't as shitty as Downtown LA so I figure try something a bit stiffer. So far so good.
I'm planning for a track day in November with my current setup. I'd say there's a 50/50 chance of that coming to fruition
EDIT: I'd like to get my hands on a set of AT Power ITBs. Anyone have experience with those? I love the slim billet butterfly profile.
What's changed with the NSX in a year? Let's see...
* Sold CTSC & Meth setup
* Sold BBK
* Installed S2K AP1/CR Quick Ratio EPS (thanks @nsxmugen!)
* Installed prototype ITBs
* Learned a thing or two about engine tuning via the HKS V-Pro
Many have asked why I sold the CTSC setup. Here are my reasons and you don't have to agree.
* After nearly 10 yrs of having a sorted setup I was beginning to get bored and needed a "project" again. #firstworldproblems
* The extra belt tension on the crank bearings never really sat well with me
* Driving a Forced Inducted car in my new area was just too much. My RPMs tended to be low. I missed the songs of VTEC
* I wanted to figure out what exactly were the annoyances of previous ITB setups and find solutions to them
* Building an NA motor is hard. So why not... HA! It's so gangster IF done right.
* I wanted a forever mod (famous last words)
What's planned...
* ITBs custom everything but using aftermarket Jenvey throttles for now. Want AT Power if I could ever afford a set
I've currently gotten the ITBs to run satisfactorily on my stock 3.0L. Albeit, it's a bit tired of a stock engine I think but it still held 210-220 psi on a compression test. I'm working with Adnan from @A.S. Motorsports on a brand new ITB design. Manifolds are CNC'd (not cast) and incorporate the primary injector location where we wanted. I'll be working on a secondary injector placement and he'll be working on a DBW setup for it once we get my prototype setup nailed - we're close. Currently still working with him on testing throttle linkages and specifically the progressivity and pedal feel. I want it to feel stock+. We're on our 5th version of this but the "feel" is almost just right IMO. I'm 3D printing that pulley as I type this. I'm also weighing the option of running the IACV or not. I get +2 to 5 in/hg of added vacuum w/o it for some reason so i've got some troubleshooting to do there. Runs fine w/ or w/o it but it's nice to have that added cold idle performance. I'll figure that out soon. Will likely need to rewire the V-Pro so I have control over the IACV. Right now.. it still runs off the factory ECU which adds to the inconsistencies.
I have to find a 0-5V barometer sensor. What are you guys using?
Here's how it's running now. Hopefully this video will somewhat make up for the lack of photos!
https://youtu.be/9Y6-7gqMXxk
I've had one dyno session but that was primarily to get my base map sorted. At the time it felt like a gargantuan task to build a base map from scratch, but having done it, it was such a gratifying experience. I don't think I could ever explain properly the feeling of accomplishment just getting the car to idle. The learning curve got much easier from there. Using ITBs it's best to use Alpha N as the primary load table... as easy as that may sound on the surface, I found it challenging to hone in on an acceptable configuration just to be able to drive it to the dyno. There were so many "moving parts". I'm happy to share what I learned for anyone interested in getting ITBs setup for this car. Once we nail down the throttle linkages I've got another dyno session planned. This time i'll be tuning for power. On that note, I'm using the HKS Knock Amp to listen for knock via earphones. I was shocked to find out not much has really changed with modern ECUs in this regard? The knock sensor/transducers basically produce a signal which the amplifier converts to audio. It sounds like Cicadas on a summer day with the occasional small rocks being shaken in a tin can loudy, which apparently resembles knock. There's varying degrees of interpretation and it's more confusing than i'm making it out to be. I can see where experience really comes into play here to get the most out of a motor SAFELY. They dyno will help. Anyway, I have to configure the HKS Knock Amp better to fine tune it but not knowing exactly what knock sounds like in the C30A I've got my timing pretty conservative I reckon. I believe my tuner friend configured this knock amp with baseline settings so it's somewhat usable. I'll need the torque curve on the dyno to validate this further. Street tuning is pretty much done for me just a few adjustments here and there.
I had lofty dreams of installing a DBW and secondary injectors from the get-go. DBW would allow much better tuning of throttle progressivity theoretically and I would save a bunch of time R&D'ing these pulleys. The ITB hardware can have provisions for it, but my V-Pro needs 2 separate add-on modules that I can no longer source/buy. So if I wanted to add either of these features I'd have to swap ECU's entirely it seems, OR add some kind of "7th injector" configuration that isn't managed per cylinder per say. I wonder how effective this will be... Seems like a band aid solution honestly though this is how I add more fuel in my TRD Supercharged Tacoma and it's been fine for a decade. Big bummer if I had to get rid of the HKS because I've come to really appreciate this platform despite it being old school. There's a lot of drivability aids built into the ECU for it being so old. I also purchased a set of adjustable height velocity stacks, but the problem I'm encountering is a physical fitment limitation. I can either use 80+mm or <45mm stacks. Nothing in between because of contact with the rear strut bar. The right choice is to custom fab a new RSTB but talk about sliding down a slippery slope. I also need to prioritize a CF airbox for this. As orgasmic as it sounds.. it's just borderline too loud at WOT. I'm also noticing in-town IATs of 115-130+F. That's just a waste of power IMO. I'm hoping a CF airbox will solve the IAT and volume problem.
General Updates:
* I still like the S2K QR rack. You do lose a little bit of micro feel but the QR is very welcomed in the tight canyons I frequent. I'm not selling my OEM manual rack in case I want to go back
* I might try RDX primary injectors in the ITB setup. I'm currently using ID1000's and they're surprisingly good but on the stock motor I'm only using 2-15%'ish duty cycle
* 3.5L engine build getting sorted now. @HQ Engineering will build that for me but we're still in discussions about possible cams, CR, and other things. It's going to take some time for this project because we want to do it right
* Suspension wise... Swapped back to NSX-R spring rates. My roads where I live now aren't as shitty as Downtown LA so I figure try something a bit stiffer. So far so good.
I'm planning for a track day in November with my current setup. I'd say there's a 50/50 chance of that coming to fruition
EDIT: I'd like to get my hands on a set of AT Power ITBs. Anyone have experience with those? I love the slim billet butterfly profile.
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Regan, it would be hard to convey how much I enjoy learning about your approach. Thank you for reporting. I hadn’t thought much about stress on the crank but I do miss the sound of my NA engine.
Hi Jason, those are very kind words. Thank you. I'm not an engineer. I just do the things that make sense to me, over the years what makes sense to me can be wrong haha. I hope you're doing well bud!
(I actually thought about you last week and how I still have the Zeitronix STILL IN THE CAR! It actually proved useful as a spot check for tuning)
(I actually thought about you last week and how I still have the Zeitronix STILL IN THE CAR! It actually proved useful as a spot check for tuning)
I'm copying this post from @Honcho's thread. This is my solution for fat boy bucket seats. I couldn't find any off-the-shelf NSX seat rails that allowed for the seat to be as low as possible (mine is touching the floor) but also be wide enough and ratchetted forward enough (for short people)
Parts:
- Reinforced Buddy Club rails (because they were independent for each side). Get your welder to reinforce those welds though...
- Relocated mounting tabs, centered and reinforced
- Old Dali Racing side mounts
- Custom Steel 90 deg angle bars (not alum, cuz steel is stronger)
- Added an adjustable pump-up air bladder for that old man lumbar support (hey! Those NSXPO trips are far, man!!!)
- Lots of measuring, then cursing, then measuring again.
p.s. this also allowed me to maximize the front/back sliding action of the Buddy Clubs. In stock form they are in the near most forward position already for a 6ft guy. Impossible for anyone shorter than say 5'9 to drive my car. Now someone maybe 5'2 can drive it.
Parts:
- Reinforced Buddy Club rails (because they were independent for each side). Get your welder to reinforce those welds though...
- Relocated mounting tabs, centered and reinforced
- Old Dali Racing side mounts
- Custom Steel 90 deg angle bars (not alum, cuz steel is stronger)
- Added an adjustable pump-up air bladder for that old man lumbar support (hey! Those NSXPO trips are far, man!!!)
- Lots of measuring, then cursing, then measuring again.
p.s. this also allowed me to maximize the front/back sliding action of the Buddy Clubs. In stock form they are in the near most forward position already for a 6ft guy. Impossible for anyone shorter than say 5'9 to drive my car. Now someone maybe 5'2 can drive it.
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Always a pleasure to read your updates and newest projects. Will be watching this one carefully as well. Keep that documentation coming.
okay.. okay... i'm trying to get better at these updates! had a crazy work week so it's nice to take a morning Friday coffee break and type away on nsxprime.com - the best website in the world! :biggrin:
Exhaust Manifolds - I decided to cover up the beautiful RF Yamamoto with a ceramic coating inside and out. I was inspired by @MotorMouth93's thread. Since I'm venturing back into the NA world I haven't thought much about coating. I really found them useful in my current Comptech headers and after monitoring my IATs just a few weeks ago (peak of summer) I decided to just coat them. They are being coated by a local shop formerly unknown to me named XTreme Performance in Oxnard, CA. They are a local small business and I love supporting these establishments. After talking with the humble owner, Alan, I found out he actually does a bunch of eccentric people's cars (Leno et al). He also does work with Nelson Engines, the folks that built the motor in the SSC Tuatara (I know, that car is controversial at the moment). He convinced me to try his best coating application (I forgot the name of the it (not Jetcoat) but I'll do a quick youtube video edit on this at some point. It's rated up to 1800+ F degrees and coated differently inside and out. Unfortunately, he claims the dull silver finish is his best coating from a performance standpoint so I negated picking a color I preferred. It does thru a proprietary polishing and ball peening process or whatever. I'm suppose to pick them up later today. We'll see!
This are my old CT headers coated at Embee from 2014. They still look pretty good but they're coming off asap to be replaced with the RFY's.
Who's a 90s kid and remember these tips? I've been hoarding these for 10-20 years. I cut off the set on the left from my Integra and found the set on the right about 10yrs later. It's too bad that center section is not stainless so i'll have to figure that out with my fabricator... might have to punch those out and replace them with SS tube. Xtreme is also polishing these as well. These will be going onto my current exhaust which you all will recognize and is rather on the quieter side - but I've grown to LOVE combined with the ITB induction noise.
ITB updates - I think functionally we're about 90% done with the core @A.S. Motorsport ITB kit. The airbox is a whole different project. We're tweaking the linkages to optimize sweep and progressivity and tension feel. The ASM linkages are all ball bearing driven so it's incredibly smooth and accurate - very satisfying in feel, at least to me. Yet, also not trying to have custom CNC everything to keep costs reasonable.
The velocity stacks on my car now are just temporary. Along with the forthcoming airbox, I've convinced myself I have to design these items in Fusion 360. I'm just not sure I have that kind of time to devote to learning it. To get the stack height I want and the shape I want... well... I can't seem to find them off-the-shelf. For anyone interested in some "light" reading.. I found this article on bellmouth design pretty interesting http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf
With the new linkages, I hope to visit the dyno and finalize my tune before the 3.5L from @HQ Engineering goes in. I'll post my working development specs on those in another post for anyone interested.
Tuning updates - I'm really starting to get comfortable with tuning the HKS F-Con VPro... well I'm getting comfortable with tuning in general. I'm even wishing for compensation tables that don't exist so I can help tackle some cold start conditions. One big to-do item was to account for altitude compensation. My version of the VPro was the last version prior to HKS including a built-in barometer sensor inside the ECU. After some research and poking around the software, and of course help from my friend Jon, I noticed HKS has provisions for "Atmosphere Fuel". The funny thing is... in typical Vpro ethos you have to select a baro sensor from a drop down list of supported sensors (Mitsubish, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, etc). Well... I had to guess on what year Honda sensor they would take, but before I go into that... I was doing further research on what folks actually used as baro sensors... much to my ignorant surprise most people (and OEMs) actually use MAP sensors to do this. My initial thought was that a typical MAP sensor would not be accurate enough. Well.. I drove up 3000 ft yesterday and the sensor seemed accurate and stable without much noise and variability... exactly how you'd think a baro sensor should work for an ECU application. I just need to work on the scaling of the sensor a bit. HKS doesn't make this easy as the sensor calibrations are hard coded into the ECU, but at least now I have a compensation table for altitude! YAY! p.s. just at 3k ft I was already noticing average AFRs to be a point richer. That's at least at 10% fuel trim adjustment in the medium load areas of the map. The ITBs are more finicky when AFR isn't optimal.
$12 MAP sensor from eBay. Harness was another $10. I hope this isn't fake because any compensation table that trims fuel always worries me a bit.
.
Bonus pic of one of our beautiful dwarf Japanese Maple trees. These are a bit rare in SoCal because it's a shade tree and drinks a lot of water. She's showing a lot more color this year than in previous. i hope she isn't predicting a win to this election! HAHA
Exhaust Manifolds - I decided to cover up the beautiful RF Yamamoto with a ceramic coating inside and out. I was inspired by @MotorMouth93's thread. Since I'm venturing back into the NA world I haven't thought much about coating. I really found them useful in my current Comptech headers and after monitoring my IATs just a few weeks ago (peak of summer) I decided to just coat them. They are being coated by a local shop formerly unknown to me named XTreme Performance in Oxnard, CA. They are a local small business and I love supporting these establishments. After talking with the humble owner, Alan, I found out he actually does a bunch of eccentric people's cars (Leno et al). He also does work with Nelson Engines, the folks that built the motor in the SSC Tuatara (I know, that car is controversial at the moment). He convinced me to try his best coating application (I forgot the name of the it (not Jetcoat) but I'll do a quick youtube video edit on this at some point. It's rated up to 1800+ F degrees and coated differently inside and out. Unfortunately, he claims the dull silver finish is his best coating from a performance standpoint so I negated picking a color I preferred. It does thru a proprietary polishing and ball peening process or whatever. I'm suppose to pick them up later today. We'll see!
This are my old CT headers coated at Embee from 2014. They still look pretty good but they're coming off asap to be replaced with the RFY's.
Who's a 90s kid and remember these tips? I've been hoarding these for 10-20 years. I cut off the set on the left from my Integra and found the set on the right about 10yrs later. It's too bad that center section is not stainless so i'll have to figure that out with my fabricator... might have to punch those out and replace them with SS tube. Xtreme is also polishing these as well. These will be going onto my current exhaust which you all will recognize and is rather on the quieter side - but I've grown to LOVE combined with the ITB induction noise.
ITB updates - I think functionally we're about 90% done with the core @A.S. Motorsport ITB kit. The airbox is a whole different project. We're tweaking the linkages to optimize sweep and progressivity and tension feel. The ASM linkages are all ball bearing driven so it's incredibly smooth and accurate - very satisfying in feel, at least to me. Yet, also not trying to have custom CNC everything to keep costs reasonable.
The velocity stacks on my car now are just temporary. Along with the forthcoming airbox, I've convinced myself I have to design these items in Fusion 360. I'm just not sure I have that kind of time to devote to learning it. To get the stack height I want and the shape I want... well... I can't seem to find them off-the-shelf. For anyone interested in some "light" reading.. I found this article on bellmouth design pretty interesting http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf
With the new linkages, I hope to visit the dyno and finalize my tune before the 3.5L from @HQ Engineering goes in. I'll post my working development specs on those in another post for anyone interested.
Tuning updates - I'm really starting to get comfortable with tuning the HKS F-Con VPro... well I'm getting comfortable with tuning in general. I'm even wishing for compensation tables that don't exist so I can help tackle some cold start conditions. One big to-do item was to account for altitude compensation. My version of the VPro was the last version prior to HKS including a built-in barometer sensor inside the ECU. After some research and poking around the software, and of course help from my friend Jon, I noticed HKS has provisions for "Atmosphere Fuel". The funny thing is... in typical Vpro ethos you have to select a baro sensor from a drop down list of supported sensors (Mitsubish, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, etc). Well... I had to guess on what year Honda sensor they would take, but before I go into that... I was doing further research on what folks actually used as baro sensors... much to my ignorant surprise most people (and OEMs) actually use MAP sensors to do this. My initial thought was that a typical MAP sensor would not be accurate enough. Well.. I drove up 3000 ft yesterday and the sensor seemed accurate and stable without much noise and variability... exactly how you'd think a baro sensor should work for an ECU application. I just need to work on the scaling of the sensor a bit. HKS doesn't make this easy as the sensor calibrations are hard coded into the ECU, but at least now I have a compensation table for altitude! YAY! p.s. just at 3k ft I was already noticing average AFRs to be a point richer. That's at least at 10% fuel trim adjustment in the medium load areas of the map. The ITBs are more finicky when AFR isn't optimal.
$12 MAP sensor from eBay. Harness was another $10. I hope this isn't fake because any compensation table that trims fuel always worries me a bit.
Bonus pic of one of our beautiful dwarf Japanese Maple trees. These are a bit rare in SoCal because it's a shade tree and drinks a lot of water. She's showing a lot more color this year than in previous. i hope she isn't predicting a win to this election! HAHA
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@BBVNSX - I suppose... maybe... I want to incorporate it cleanly and elegantly into the clamshell cover with an air filter. Many ideas in my head but after I realized I don't need other pressure sensors inside the air box it opens the possibilities. I just need a way to quiet down the ITBs and a reasonable area for the IAT sensor. I use to think I wanted to mount a MAF somewhere but i'm slowly convincing myself it's not needed. Also, something that is OEM looking helps with the local law enforcement.
We'll see... The engine bay will be 3D scanned to make prototyping easier. Who knows.. I might get good enough in Fusion 360 to design one myself. That's a super longshot though.
We'll see... The engine bay will be 3D scanned to make prototyping easier. Who knows.. I might get good enough in Fusion 360 to design one myself. That's a super longshot though.
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