Unfortunately the S2 has a different size front tire
RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread
- Thread starter RYU
- Start date
Unfortunately the S2 has a different size front tire
I have a dilemma. A friend is willing to sell me his 6spd transmission. It would be nice to have the 6th gear for the long freeway commutes but it's essentially a brand new, in the crate from Honda, 6spd.
Do I...
1. Keep my JDM 5spd, newly rebuilt with new synchros, OS Giken STR2C clutch, and impossible to find OS Giken 1.5 way LSD with the stock final drive.
2A. Buy the 6spd, sell the 5spd above, suffer thru a mediocre single plate clutch of some brand, and stick with the OEM LSD
2B. Buy the 6spd... Blow a ton of cash again, install a Type R input shaft so I can use my OSG clutch, and maybe consider the 4.4 OSG LSD that's on backorder of which I don't even like the final drive.
Do I...
1. Keep my JDM 5spd, newly rebuilt with new synchros, OS Giken STR2C clutch, and impossible to find OS Giken 1.5 way LSD with the stock final drive.
2A. Buy the 6spd, sell the 5spd above, suffer thru a mediocre single plate clutch of some brand, and stick with the OEM LSD
2B. Buy the 6spd... Blow a ton of cash again, install a Type R input shaft so I can use my OSG clutch, and maybe consider the 4.4 OSG LSD that's on backorder of which I don't even like the final drive.
Regan, I'd do 2B .... Ok it's what I did. Only thing is the final. I struggled with the same decision as well, and decided that for my needs, the standard 4.06 made sense. I had considered the 4.44 and 4.23, but being boosted, I already run through the gears pretty quickly, so I figured that 4.06 is fine. That said, buddy of mine who has the same FI setup as I do, loved his 4.44 on the track.
Hi Graeme, where you able to do the OSD LSD on the stock final? It's my understanding OSG doesn't make that, or doesn't make it anymore.
RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread
Had to double-check with our friend, but the final that I have came with my diff. It's part of their basic setup. They have two other options, but 4.0 is their standard setup. Slight correction, though. 4.23 was never an option. I don't listen very well. Lol.
Had to double-check with our friend, but the final that I have came with my diff. It's part of their basic setup. They have two other options, but 4.0 is their standard setup. Slight correction, though. 4.23 was never an option. I don't listen very well. Lol.
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I've sort of conveniently forgotten about the 5spd vs. 6spd discussion for now as I convinced my friend to hold onto it for longer - which could easily be YEARS 
phew.. decision averted.
On a different topic, I was bored one night and created a functional cruise control switch plate as inspired by a discussion with @michaelbrat in recent months. I've wanted to do it for years but couldn't figure out quite how to do it. I was stumped because the steering wheel switch plates sold have to mount (i.e. sandwiched between steering wheel and hub) on fixed steering wheels. Therefore, I needed a detachable hub that had multiple electric contacts. The common ones like my Works Bell hub have only contact points for the horn button. The plates look like this...
I think these ^^^ are functional and the buttons are easy to get to but I've always thought they look horrible on a street car. I wanted something more stealth. @illwillem gave me some spare raw carbon plate material and I had some buttons lying around. I hope to find better looking buttons later but once mounted they are only visible from the driver - exactly what I wanted. They are also easy enough to get to without being bothersome during track or spirited driving.
All that remains is to wire this up and find some wiring insulation covering solution for the exposed connections in the rear. Maybe I can do it this wknd...
Here's the wiring detail I lifted off the old daliracing site. Stop PM'ing me people!
Information about wiring:How SRS light on the dash stays off after airbag removed?
Take a look at the yellow SRS connector on the left side with 3 pins insideYou need a jumper between pin 1 and pin 3
How cruise control and horn works?
(You don’t need to do this if you are using horn button only, becauseWiring for horn button and wiring for horn button together with cruise controlis different!)
You need a racing control kit (rck) with 2 buttons.
Take a look at the yellow cruise control connector on the right side with 4 pins insidePin 1 connect horn cable (negative cable) (Pin 1 stands up alone; Pin 2-4 stands in the same distance down)Pin 2 2 negative cables connect one cable to the right button of rck connect one cable to the left button of rckPin 3 connect one cable to the right button of rck (RESUME Accel +)Pin 4 connect one cable to the left button of rck (SET Decel -)
Here's another one for you lazy google'rs
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?10943-Cruise-control-buttons-for-Momo-tuner-wheel&
phew.. decision averted. On a different topic, I was bored one night and created a functional cruise control switch plate as inspired by a discussion with @michaelbrat in recent months. I've wanted to do it for years but couldn't figure out quite how to do it. I was stumped because the steering wheel switch plates sold have to mount (i.e. sandwiched between steering wheel and hub) on fixed steering wheels. Therefore, I needed a detachable hub that had multiple electric contacts. The common ones like my Works Bell hub have only contact points for the horn button. The plates look like this...
I think these ^^^ are functional and the buttons are easy to get to but I've always thought they look horrible on a street car. I wanted something more stealth. @illwillem gave me some spare raw carbon plate material and I had some buttons lying around. I hope to find better looking buttons later but once mounted they are only visible from the driver - exactly what I wanted. They are also easy enough to get to without being bothersome during track or spirited driving.
All that remains is to wire this up and find some wiring insulation covering solution for the exposed connections in the rear. Maybe I can do it this wknd...
Here's the wiring detail I lifted off the old daliracing site. Stop PM'ing me people!
Information about wiring:How SRS light on the dash stays off after airbag removed?
Take a look at the yellow SRS connector on the left side with 3 pins insideYou need a jumper between pin 1 and pin 3
How cruise control and horn works?
(You don’t need to do this if you are using horn button only, becauseWiring for horn button and wiring for horn button together with cruise controlis different!)
You need a racing control kit (rck) with 2 buttons.
Take a look at the yellow cruise control connector on the right side with 4 pins insidePin 1 connect horn cable (negative cable) (Pin 1 stands up alone; Pin 2-4 stands in the same distance down)Pin 2 2 negative cables connect one cable to the right button of rck connect one cable to the left button of rckPin 3 connect one cable to the right button of rck (RESUME Accel +)Pin 4 connect one cable to the left button of rck (SET Decel -)
Here's another one for you lazy google'rs
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?10943-Cruise-control-buttons-for-Momo-tuner-wheel&
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Already done for you bud
I was thinking ahead I ordered buttons that look like this.
I also bought a set of stainless steel marine quality switches in the same size. I'll post pics when I get them.
Will try to make it. Hope I get out of work early enough.Awesome!
Hope to see you at the meet tonight.
Mike B
UPDATE: Now using the new Motul 75w140 gear oil.
Good: Great shifting characteristics. No longer need to warm up the trans oil to shift normally.
Bad: Now starting to hear the clicking in the LSD when the clutch packs engage under torque coming out of a turn.
Overall, I don't mind the compromise. Though, it's not 99.9% quiet like it was on the old gear oil.
Good: Great shifting characteristics. No longer need to warm up the trans oil to shift normally.
Bad: Now starting to hear the clicking in the LSD when the clutch packs engage under torque coming out of a turn.
Overall, I don't mind the compromise. Though, it's not 99.9% quiet like it was on the old gear oil.
Goddamn that was quick. I guess the reverse opening hood gave it away? Haha
- - - Updated - - -
HOT OFF THE PRESS!
I just received word from OS Giken USA that they do not recommend their OS Giken 80-250w weight gear oil in transaxles. I had read the same from another thread here on prime but needed to confirm. I'll be switching over the Motul at some point. Geez.. what a waste of expensive gear oil.
Thanks to your review and Mexiricer influence i just made the jump for the OS Giken STR2C twin disc clutch. had been debating between the osgiken and the exedy for the past two weeks. Now just crossing finger the noise wont be too annoying for my semi daily driver lol.
Finished up my cruise control. Need to street test it this weekend.
Hey [MENTION=20915]RYU[/MENTION]...I'd like to introduce you to:
http://www.competitionmotorsport.com/Hoosier-Race-Slick_c7.htm
And a possible return to a 17/18 setup.
http://www.competitionmotorsport.com/Hoosier-Race-Slick_c7.htm
And a possible return to a 17/18 setup.
Hey [MENTION=20915]RYU[/MENTION]...I'd like to introduce you to:
http://www.competitionmotorsport.com/Hoosier-Race-Slick_c7.htm
And a possible return to a 17/18 setup.
I still have my 17/18!
Just continuing our dialog from the Clarion thread. So are you running A.S. Gaskets on the manifold only? Or both the blower and manifold? And how does this affect Fitment of the intake? Any other closing thoughts? I'm really interested in a set to reduce IATs but not fully committed to water/meth yet.
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Hi @USAFguy22,
I'm using the ASM intake manifold phenolic spacers (aka. gaskets) that goes in between the heads and the CTSC intake manifold. I'm also using the CTSC spacer plate that has a fitting for a water/meth spray nozzle. Find the smallest one you can find. I think mine was a CM2 from the Aquamist website though I could have gone one smaller. It doesn't take much to cool the intake if you spray AFTER the blower.
The cooling is far beyond 30 degs. On a really hot day IATs can get as high as 200F without any cooling. I think that Clarion car was running around that temp for it to hiccup like that OR the high IAT compensation tables just weren't tuned right. This is just speculation on my part... Mine use to hiccup at around 170F IATs. During a typical HOT track day (90F+) the IATs are around 120-130F fairly consistently. NSXPO2015 in Palm Springs was around 110-115F ambient. My NSX ran cool as a cucumber. In a cold day (65F or below) it actually cools maybe too much.. it's like 80-100F but i've only tried this on one track day. I'm using a really rudimentary old school Snow Performance Boost dependent pump controller. When I get some time I will have my HKS F-Con Vpro ECU control the delivery of the spray this way I can always maintain IATs at around 100-120F which is where I like it to be.
I really don't know why not many more folks use this method of IAT cooling in a CTSC application. It's a no brainer and the "technology" has been around since the 1950's I believe.
Good luck! Maybe one day i'll do a youtube video on the setup.
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I assume Adnan [MENTION=20830]A.S. Motorsport[/MENTION] still has these in stock. They work GREAT. I know Jami here in Norcal mimicked my setup with successful results.
This is a typical aftercooler setup posted by an owner recently. I hope no one takes offense as this is just my opinion but you can clearly see why I think this is an inefficient solution and unnecessarily too complicated (i.e. pumps, heat exchangers, hoses, etc...). The opening that constitutes the effective cooling area is so small. that's maybe a 4" x 3" window. The rest of the heat exchange element surface area is not quite fully utilized.
Great cruise control mod [MENTION=20915]RYU[/MENTION]. Thanks for sharing.
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Cooling efficiency aside what's the impact on the flow? Regan, I agree with your assessment above. It's too complicated design for the problem at hand. Spraying it is less intrusive, effective enough to meet the goals and simpler to implement.This is a typical aftercooler setup posted by an owner recently. I hope no one takes offense as this is just my opinion but you can clearly see why I think this is an inefficient solution and unnecessarily too complicated (i.e. pumps, heat exchangers, hoses, etc...). The opening that constitutes the effective cooling area is so small. that's maybe a 4" x 3" window. The rest of the heat exchange element surface area is not quite fully utilized.
It would be interesting to see some data logs from running this after cooler.
I've only seen data that SOS has published on their Laminova cooler which is discontinued I believe but this method of cooling is popular with the American V8s, which BTW... the Z06 is known to overheat. Evidently it's about ~20% hit to flow roughly.
The problem people run into with water/meth is when their tune strictly relies on the octane boost of the meth. In that scenario, when something fails in the system they tend not to have the failsafes in place and things go KABOOM. I'm advocating using water for cooling only and the extra meth for octane "insurance".
Great write up, thank you for your thoughts. What kind of cooling data were you seeing without spray? (Spacers only).
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Agreed. Most of the effective air:water aftercoolers used in OEM applications are much larger than one that can fit in the stock intake manifold.
I also like the idea of the cooler keeping the IATs in check, but with a good tune, you can have water injection further lower IATs and increase power safely with a fail-safe if the pump stops working or it runs out of water.
I also like the idea of the cooler keeping the IATs in check, but with a good tune, you can have water injection further lower IATs and increase power safely with a fail-safe if the pump stops working or it runs out of water.
It's hard to say how high it could go with the phenolic plate. The phenolic material helps keep the blower cool but compressing air in general is the majority of the reason why IATs get hot. My IAT Alarm is set to go off at 160F at the track then I pull off and refill for the next session. This has only happened once when I forgot to refill the tank from the prior session. 160F alarm trigger is rather low considering 160-190F is probably the norm for a stock tune CTSC on a warm day with a couple of WOT Redline pulls. No, you don't need the fancy IAT alarms. Just probably a warning lamp for an empty tank is needed which is a basic feature of most spray kits.
I also like the aftercooler method in general. If it works right, it's trouble free and relatively maintenance free but it has to be sized and implemented properly. The NSX, which you know, just has so little space that the hot air cannot be distributed efficiently through the heat exchanger exposed to boosted air.
Hope this helps some folks make an educated decision. Just keep in mind.. Tuning is so important here and good tuning will pay huge dividends with the highest return on your dollar. It's why i'm trying to convince @stuntman to come to the Left Coast again to help tune some of our cars!
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