Rear Wheel Stud Removal / Hub Removal

NSXpert01,

In this case, did you not have to remove the hub at all?? Just press the studs in and out?? I know you do not need much to clear it:). If so, NICE tip!!

Thanks,
LarryB
 
Exactly it only needs a little bit off the head nothing that will weaken the stud, then i just put a bunch of washers and a lug nut and tighten with an impact gun till it sat in the hub snug. Good luck :biggrin:
 
I remember this method from a post quite some time back - I seem to recall that the poster had ground a the head off one side to a flat.
I guess if you're doing one stud, then fine. It comes down to a choice of either grinding down 10 studs or two hubs. Maybe easier to do the studs if you have a bench grinder. Remember you still have to get the old studs out though (unless its's broken) so I would opt for the hub grind rather than the studs.
 
If replacing a ggod stud for a longer one get a cut off wheel and chop half of it off, and with an air hammer u can knock it out in less then 5 min's. Make sure when u grind the new stud head u put like 1 or 2 lugnuts to insure not grinding down the thread on the new studs.
 
One question...with the big 36mm nut, you dont have to release its lock (the indention into the shaft), just torque it out with the gun. Will this damage the shaft?
 
ATERPAK said:
Yes you are. You are making it a lot more work by removing the hub than you need to. Even if you do get that axle nut loose, you then have to free the hub from the axle splines. This may or may not be easy depending on the amount of corrosion on the splines plus the other bolts holding the hub onto the knuckle. Just do what Vytas has suggested and Ken's great directions and use a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel or grinding wheel to relieve a small area on the hub for the studs to pass through. Also make sure you paint the area you've just ground with some clear to keep corrosion from forming on the hub when you're done. It's not rocket science and it's a lot quicker than trying your way because you are still going to have to grind the hub in that same area while it's off the car. Doing it the other way will save you time, money (no new axle nut to buy) and aggravation. :cool:
Click to expand...


So even if I take the hub off the knuckle, I can't get the studs out w/o grinding? How did they get them in in the first place?
 
NSXpert01 said:
If replacing a ggod stud for a longer one get a cut off wheel and chop half of it off, and with an air hammer u can knock it out in less then 5 min's. Make sure when u grind the new stud head u put like 1 or 2 lugnuts to insure not grinding down the thread on the new studs.
Click to expand...


Can you explain this? Are you saying to cut the "old" studs off before you knock them through? Is this so you don't have to grind the knuckle or the hub?

And for the new studs, why do you have to grind them?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I don't screw this up?

Ed
 
emdoller said:
Can you explain this? Are you saying to cut the "old" studs off before you knock them through? Is this so you don't have to grind the knuckle or the hub?

And for the new studs, why do you have to grind them?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I don't screw this up?

Ed
Click to expand...

By cutting off the studs it makes them short enough so that when pushed out the back they are clear of the hub before running into the carrier. When installing new full length studs they won't clear the carrier and go through the hole so you either have to grind the carrier or the head of the stud to get it in past the carrier. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :tongue:
 
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Briank said:
By cutting off the studs makes it makes them short enough so that when pushed out the back they are clear of the hub before running into the carrier. When installing new full length studs they won't clear the carrier and go through the hole so you either have to grind the carrier or the head of the stud to get it in past the carrier. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :tongue:
Click to expand...

I'm almost with you. Cutting the old ones make it so I done' have to grind - got it. Putting the new ones in I'd have to grind the carrier / knuckle. Got it.

What I can't visualize is the option of grinding the "head of the new stud to get it past the carrier".

Thanks for your patience!! :confused:
 
Emdoller

Briank in the lastpost explained it perfect. You need to make the OEM shorter to get them out easily, and the new studs just need to make 1/4 of the head flat so you have clearance
 
NSXpert01 said:
Emdoller

Briank in the lastpost explained it perfect. You need to make the OEM shorter to get them out easily, and the new studs just need to make 1/4 of the head flat so you have clearance
Click to expand...

Got it. It's the head that has to have a flat spot to get through. Thanks!
 
Head or base depends how you look at it, but were talking about the same thing. here is a diagram so you can get an idea.
 

Attachments

So either way you do it you're going to have to buy a Dremel tool and an extra pack of reinforced cutting discs. It's going to be a lot of work cutting off the old studs shorter using a hack saw rather than cutting them off with the Dremel tool. Now I'm assuming you're also adding longer wheel studs to accomadate new wheel spacers. Without wheel spacers you're going to have to get different lug nuts to allow the extra length of the stud to go through. They are available from Acura as old Legend lug nuts. They would be used for stock OEM wheels only. Non-stock wheels use a cone type face and you can find open back lug nuts from numerous sources.
 
Bringing back and old topic. I'm getting ready to install longer studs on my rear. The parts should be here next week, so I started the preparation already. I alreay removed 1 stock stud to practice. To do that I just ground down a 1/4 of the base as described and it came right out. My question is on the hub carrier and knuckle which side should I notch? In the diagram provided by Ken it appears the notch goes on the caliper bracket side. What about the other side where the wheel sensor is? It seems like it might have more room on that side and thus less material to shave off? Anyway once I get the correct side to notch I'll go and do the work so when the studs come in next week I should be able to knock them in real quick.

Also, what does removing the flange bolts do? Does it simply allow the entire hub to rotate slightly without having to remove the axle nut making it easier to aling the stud to the notches and holes? Thanks.

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If you're going to be installing the lug nuts while the hub is still on the car, then don't touch the flange bolts. Leave everything alone. Just remove all the brake pieces and splash gaurd so you have clear access to the hub and stud area. Then grind the area away from where the caliper bolts onto the hub. In this case it would be toward the rear of the car and I've found that near the curved area where the hub flange bolts to the upright seems to need less grinding for the clearance you'll need for the new studs. There should be no need to grind into the rear knuckle at all and is not recommended. Once you get that clearance simply punch out the old studs and press in the new ones. I would also recommend that you paint the area where you did the grinding with some high quality clear paint. No need to introduce rust in this piece so painting is a must. Good luck with this and it shouldn't be difficult to do, just a little time consuming.
 
I just installed 2 new lugs by grinding the stud heads, and I didn't have to cut the splash guard. I unbloted it, and rotated it to where the stud would clear it.

The less grinding the better in my opinion.
 
I replaced a broken rear wheelstud (driver side rear) without removing the hub or grinding anything. Just line the stud up with the slot (3 o'clock position) after removing the splash shield. Slips right in without any grinding:wink:
 
I had a stripped wheel stud I needed to remove and this thread was very helpful. I'm more of a visual person so it really helps me if I can see what someone is talking about. The diagrams in this thread were helpful for when I was actually at the car and looking at everything. Anyway I wanted to add to this thread by putting in a few pics of the actual work.

BTW - I did not need to Dremmel the knuckle. I was able to do the same as Mackash and line the stud up in the 3 o'clock position, hammer the old one out and after dremmeling the head of the stud a little was able to push the new one in. Very nice.

Here are those pics.

How everything looks with the wheel and rotor off. I was lucky with the rotor screws. I sprayed some Seafoam Deep Creep on them....palced my screwdriver on them and gave them a few hard taps with a hammer and they came right out. Next you will need to unbolt the guard and be able to rotate it around





Lining up the bad stud with the 3 o'clock position and with the guard turned to where there is a space in it.






The back of the stud about to be removed






Beginning to hammer the stud out






Stud almost all the way out






Out and removing by hand






The Dremmeled stud






The new stud laying in position. I did remove that sensor just to the right so I could hit the stud from behind to get it in.






New stud almost in all the way






All done...time for a beer!

 
Great addition to this thread. You deserve two beers!

Regards,
LarryB
 
Larry,

one thing that i always wondered is if hammering the studs in or out won't damage or reduce
the life of the bearing...i mean..impacts on a bearing is not good, at least that is my understanding.

What do you say?

Thanks,
Nuno
 
Did this not too long ago.. taking the hub off with a breaker bar sucked ended up breaking the 3/4 adaptor.. brother had a 19v impact gun and came right off.. also trimmed the brake cover *C* shape to remove it from the hub..hammered out the studs with stock nut attached so it wouldnt flange out the edge.. I was using longer studs so the method above didn't work for me.. without disassembling the hub I grinded the head studs at the flange just enough to clear.. I dont recall having to take off alot but it did not reach the shank diameter ... this method has been done before in other cars... im not saying its the right way or implying you should do it this way but have had no issues with it breaking or pulling thru the yrs doing it thus way

Sorry I took the hub off .. supported the casting that holds the studs then hammer It off so that no pressure was on the bearing
 
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