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Only if I had another 300 hp - chasing a ZR1
- Thread starter CL65 Captain
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Wow - Video and Driving are fantastic!
Since this has partially turned into a camera thread, are you still post-processing with a stabilizer program even after fixing your mount?
Dave
Since this has partially turned into a camera thread, are you still post-processing with a stabilizer program even after fixing your mount?
Dave
In a practice context- being in an under-powered car is an advantage. HP covers up a butt ton of driver mistakes.
I know all about getting spanked on straight aways by cars with double or even triple the hp. A lot of enthusiasts and speed shops will give you the normal speel: you are a good driver, you just need to buy X, Y, and Z and you'll be competitive (i.e. spend more money with us)
It's almost always BS.
The truth is the last thing you need is +300hp to pass that driver, in that ZR1, at an HPDE. He didn't lap you twice.
You just need to think/drive faster. Faster transitions. More throttle. 1 MPH or even 1/2 mph higher average course speed, that extra bit of consistency and aggressiveness over the course of the session, and you'll easily get your point by next time.
Lookin' good- but use it as a forcing function and just keep working at it, hit your marks, and push your limit.
My 0.02
I know all about getting spanked on straight aways by cars with double or even triple the hp. A lot of enthusiasts and speed shops will give you the normal speel: you are a good driver, you just need to buy X, Y, and Z and you'll be competitive (i.e. spend more money with us)
It's almost always BS.
The truth is the last thing you need is +300hp to pass that driver, in that ZR1, at an HPDE. He didn't lap you twice.
You just need to think/drive faster. Faster transitions. More throttle. 1 MPH or even 1/2 mph higher average course speed, that extra bit of consistency and aggressiveness over the course of the session, and you'll easily get your point by next time.
Lookin' good- but use it as a forcing function and just keep working at it, hit your marks, and push your limit.
My 0.02
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To echo what John is saying, before spending money on power adders that will make the car trickier to drive (unless you're nowhere near your limits of adhesion), I would simplify and add lightness first if you can.
That will help all-around acceleration, handling, and enable you to increase your average throttle position around the tracks. Obviously, you need to balance this around aesthetics and your other needs for the car, but you can remove A LOT of weight from these. A bunch of little things can make a big difference. Loosing 200lbs will increase your power to weight ratio by 7% and help handling immensely.
Dave
That will help all-around acceleration, handling, and enable you to increase your average throttle position around the tracks. Obviously, you need to balance this around aesthetics and your other needs for the car, but you can remove A LOT of weight from these. A bunch of little things can make a big difference. Loosing 200lbs will increase your power to weight ratio by 7% and help handling immensely.
Dave
Jim, Great video, as usual....I noticed that you are now leaving in 4th gear thru turn one! I'm sure you've found it must help, but I still feel more comfortable going to 3rd before I make the turn...
It's amazing how later in the video the ZR1 was really pulling away on the straight, so he must have been taking it easy at first...
It's amazing how later in the video the ZR1 was really pulling away on the straight, so he must have been taking it easy at first...
Ray.... you are going to have to learn to use 4th in turn 1. I did an entire session using 3rd and then the next session 4th.
3rd may feel like you are going faster because you are accelerating, but you are not.
In addition, you have to over brake to get to a speed where you can use 3rd.
The results speak for themselves. Red = 3rd / Blue = 4th
3rd may feel like you are going faster because you are accelerating, but you are not.
In addition, you have to over brake to get to a speed where you can use 3rd.
The results speak for themselves. Red = 3rd / Blue = 4th
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The video was stabilized. I still have a little vibration I think because the mount only uses one suction cup. I may try using two to a plate and then mount the camera on the plate. But for now, it's pretty damn good.
Here is a link to a clip of raw footage 1080p taken right from the camera.
http://www.mediafire.com/?tjzqodttynx
I was watching your raw footage and was wondering how do you go about stabilizing this video? I'm completely ignorant when it comes to stuff like this.
I run it through a Mac software program called iStabilize. It processes it and you selected the amount of stabilization with a slider (0-10), it some other controls too. Then export the video.
There is also a different program (free) for PCs called VirtualDub and a plugin called DeShaker.
Get a better run onto that straight, use 4th, and brake later (like you did using 3rd).Ray.... you are going to have to learn to use 4th in turn 1. I did an entire session using 3rd and then the next session 4th.
3rd may feel like you are going faster because you are accelerating, but you are not.
In addition, you have to over brake to get to a speed where you can use 3rd.
The results speak for themselves. Red = 3rd / Blue = 4th
Yes, I know. :tongue: This was just two random laps I pulled to illustrate to Ray why using 4th gear is much faster through turn 1 at Putnam.
This a little better Billy?
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