Thanks! Ya it’s a great/clean solution. I think it was $7 or $8 at my local Honda dealership.
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My let's see where this one goes "build" thread
- Thread starter NSX_n00b
- Start date
Thanks! Ya it’s a great/clean solution. I think it was $7 or $8 at my local Honda dealership.
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Minor Exterior Update
I bought the JDM tail lights from the previous owner of my car and got the Type-S center section from Japan and installed them over a year ago. The only thing I needed was the JDM LED 3rd brake light bar. Of course buying one brand new is way too much money for just the bar and honestly, unless you are up close it is very hard to tell on a black car that I didn't have the darker tinted version.
But I knew that for when the car goes Phoenix Blue it will be easier to tell so I would eventually need to find one. The best route for this is to buy a JDM OEM spoiler from Japan that has the light bar on it. They go for ~$150 on YAJ pretty regularly then with shipping another ~$200 so $350 all in for a JDM 3rd brake light and an additional OEM spoiler. I figured I'd give that a shot and then just try to sell the extra spoiler to make some of the money back. Thanks to @MexiRicer a couple months ago there were 2 up for auction. I bid on one and didn't think anything of it. A couple days later I noticed I was no longer the highest bidder and my opponent had bid the spoiler a little high. I read the item description again and low and behold it was because it was a real Type-S spoiler. A small bidding war ensued for over an hour after the original closing time for the auction and I won. A couple weeks later the spoiler arrived:
A quick Prime search told me that the OEM Spoiler weighs roughly 14lbs with the light bar installed. Well sure enough this one only weighs 8.5lbs (on my kitchen scale which may be off but not 6lbs off). So I'm convinced I really did by a Type-S spoiler (yes the same as the Zanardi, Type-S Zero, and all 02+ NSX's, but still it's $1800 brand new without the LED bar and I didn't pay anywhere near that).
Originally I thought I would have to take the rear spoiler off of the car to replace the 3rd brake light, well imagine my surprise when I realized I didn't have to. It's held on by 5 screws that are covered with the little circle pieces under the spoiler and a connector at the back of the light.
Up close you can tell I still had the USDM version on the car:
Using my thumb nail to carefully remove the 5 hole covers and a stubby phillips head screwdriver I had the brake light off in less than 5 minutes:
A couple of pictures showcasing the tint difference (USDM top vs JDM bottom):
JDM light in place and installed again in less than 5 minutes:
I placed an old mirror behind the car, got in, stepped on the brake and it lit up like a champ!
Now I just need to figure out if I'm going to keep the Type-S wing or sell it.
I bought the JDM tail lights from the previous owner of my car and got the Type-S center section from Japan and installed them over a year ago. The only thing I needed was the JDM LED 3rd brake light bar. Of course buying one brand new is way too much money for just the bar and honestly, unless you are up close it is very hard to tell on a black car that I didn't have the darker tinted version.
But I knew that for when the car goes Phoenix Blue it will be easier to tell so I would eventually need to find one. The best route for this is to buy a JDM OEM spoiler from Japan that has the light bar on it. They go for ~$150 on YAJ pretty regularly then with shipping another ~$200 so $350 all in for a JDM 3rd brake light and an additional OEM spoiler. I figured I'd give that a shot and then just try to sell the extra spoiler to make some of the money back. Thanks to @MexiRicer a couple months ago there were 2 up for auction. I bid on one and didn't think anything of it. A couple days later I noticed I was no longer the highest bidder and my opponent had bid the spoiler a little high. I read the item description again and low and behold it was because it was a real Type-S spoiler. A small bidding war ensued for over an hour after the original closing time for the auction and I won. A couple weeks later the spoiler arrived:
A quick Prime search told me that the OEM Spoiler weighs roughly 14lbs with the light bar installed. Well sure enough this one only weighs 8.5lbs (on my kitchen scale which may be off but not 6lbs off). So I'm convinced I really did by a Type-S spoiler (yes the same as the Zanardi, Type-S Zero, and all 02+ NSX's, but still it's $1800 brand new without the LED bar and I didn't pay anywhere near that).
Originally I thought I would have to take the rear spoiler off of the car to replace the 3rd brake light, well imagine my surprise when I realized I didn't have to. It's held on by 5 screws that are covered with the little circle pieces under the spoiler and a connector at the back of the light.
Up close you can tell I still had the USDM version on the car:
Using my thumb nail to carefully remove the 5 hole covers and a stubby phillips head screwdriver I had the brake light off in less than 5 minutes:
A couple of pictures showcasing the tint difference (USDM top vs JDM bottom):
JDM light in place and installed again in less than 5 minutes:
I placed an old mirror behind the car, got in, stepped on the brake and it lit up like a champ!
Now I just need to figure out if I'm going to keep the Type-S wing or sell it.
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Another Minor Update
So a little over a year ago I got the [MENTION=16534]Stephen@NCAutoUSA[/MENTION] carbon fiber radiator cooling panel and put it on:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-quot-thread?p=1976738&viewfull=1#post1976738
Well not too long later I got in on his group buy for carbon fiber radiator stays and they literally sat for about a year. So I finally got off my ass and put them on (another 10 minute job).
Before:
The OEM stays are extremely easy to remove. Two 12mm bolts and the passenger side one lifts right off:
The rubber grommet in the stay just pushes out from the front side towards the back, you can see the little groove:
The driver's side is basically the same with 2 caveats. You need something to hold the hood up since the hood prop rod is connected to the driver's side radiator stay. The second is that the grommet for the prop rod is a bit of a bitch to get out. I mangled mine a bit so I'll probably end up ordering two new ones (one for the CF stay and one for the OEM stay). But then you just place everything back in it's spot and 7ft/lbs of torque later you're all done:
This week is honestly just a bunch of small updates. I'm trying to get everything put on that I've accumulated over the last year or so. More to come.
So a little over a year ago I got the [MENTION=16534]Stephen@NCAutoUSA[/MENTION] carbon fiber radiator cooling panel and put it on:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-quot-thread?p=1976738&viewfull=1#post1976738
Well not too long later I got in on his group buy for carbon fiber radiator stays and they literally sat for about a year. So I finally got off my ass and put them on (another 10 minute job).
Before:
The OEM stays are extremely easy to remove. Two 12mm bolts and the passenger side one lifts right off:
The rubber grommet in the stay just pushes out from the front side towards the back, you can see the little groove:
The driver's side is basically the same with 2 caveats. You need something to hold the hood up since the hood prop rod is connected to the driver's side radiator stay. The second is that the grommet for the prop rod is a bit of a bitch to get out. I mangled mine a bit so I'll probably end up ordering two new ones (one for the CF stay and one for the OEM stay). But then you just place everything back in it's spot and 7ft/lbs of torque later you're all done:
This week is honestly just a bunch of small updates. I'm trying to get everything put on that I've accumulated over the last year or so. More to come.
In for p/n on JDM thumb nail taillight cap removal tool :tongue:. Still waiting on the next batch of updates
Mexi give these a try:
https://www.claires.com/us/glitter-...--purple--24-pack-231724.html?cgid=87#start=2
:biggrin::biggrin:
I'm trying to get a real photographer to snap some pics this weekend since my iPhone photography skills are potato quality at best haha
I've been trying to solve the mystery of the Type-S/Zanardi wing for years. During my last foray into the JDM catalogs on this issue, the part number matched the "regular" NSXs. But, the scale don't lie. Lol. 
Maybe Honda retconned the lighter wing back into the regular parts stream? Kind of like how they did with the NSX-R pressure cap?
Maybe Honda retconned the lighter wing back into the regular parts stream? Kind of like how they did with the NSX-R pressure cap?
I've been trying to solve the mystery of the Type-S/Zanardi wing for years. During my last foray into the JDM catalogs on this issue, the part number matched the "regular" NSXs. But, the scale don't lie. Lol.
The interesting thing is that in the USDM catalog there is currently only 1 P/N listed:
71700-SL0-901ZZ
and it says it replaces the 2 P/N I knew about:
71700-SL0-000ZZ - All '91-'01 MY
71700-SL0-900ZZ - NA1 NSX-R/Type-S/Type-S Zero/Zanardi & '02+ MY (Type-S included)
but I cannot find where the 901ZZ P/N was first introduced.
If you plug the 901 P/N into the JDM catalog it says "Permanently Out of Stock" yet that's the ONLY P/N that shows now in the USDM catalog
However, apparently both 000ZZ and 900ZZ are both still available in the JDM parts stream?
The interesting thing is that in the USDM catalog there is currently only 1 P/N listed:
71700-SL0-901ZZ
and it says it replaces the 2 P/N I knew about:
71700-SL0-000ZZ - All '91-'01 MY
71700-SL0-900ZZ - NA1 NSX-R/Type-S/Type-S Zero/Zanardi & '02+ MY (Type-S included)
but I cannot find where the 901ZZ P/N was first introduced.
If you plug the 901 P/N into the JDM catalog it says "Permanently Out of Stock" yet that's the ONLY P/N that shows now in the USDM catalog
However, apparently both 000ZZ and 900ZZ are both still available in the JDM parts stream?
We basically need an 02+ owner to weigh their stock wing. I bet it is the same as the Type-S/Zanardi. Honda was doing everything to keep curb weight down as the model aged.
- Joined
- 4 May 2008
- Messages
- 552
I got 8.8 lbs for the wing, but it probably weighs slightly more. (Wing is NOT for sale)
I only have an inaccurate bathroom scale, but it should give you a ball park of the 2002 NSX wing weight.
The wing is standing on it's own on the bathroom scale. I added pictures of weights on the scale to give you an idea of the margin of error.
EDIT: Reset the scale and re-weighed for better results (It was 8.6lb for the wing the first time and 9.4 lb for the 10lbs of weights originally).
I only have an inaccurate bathroom scale, but it should give you a ball park of the 2002 NSX wing weight.
The wing is standing on it's own on the bathroom scale. I added pictures of weights on the scale to give you an idea of the margin of error.
EDIT: Reset the scale and re-weighed for better results (It was 8.6lb for the wing the first time and 9.4 lb for the 10lbs of weights originally).
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My bathroom scale wouldn't even read the wing so I had to use my kitchen scale which gave me the 8lbs 8.6oz. It gave the same reading when I had it standing on it's own straight up and down. Let's figure we both are in that 8.8-9lb range which sounds about right. Thanks [MENTION=20407]MaxGeek[/MENTION] for the pictures/info!
So [MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION] it looks like your original assumptions are probably confirmed that the Type-S spoiler and the USDM 02+ spoiler are in fact the same.
More Interior
I'm slowly chipping away at all of the interior modifications I need to do for the Type-S transformation so here is another one...the Type-S armrest.
P/N: 83405-SL0-Z00ZA
The trick here is that the bottom piece to the Type-S armrest is designed for a RHD car so you need to reuse the bottom piece from you current armrest to make it work. And then because it's a single piece armrest you'll need a '91 or '92 center speaker cover. Since mine is a '91 I didn't have any issues with that part.
Notice how the holes for the hinges are on the right side and the magnet placement is on the left (or when turned over magnet on right and hinges on left which is reverse of the LHD center console):
But you'll also notice that the bottom of the armrest piece is symmetrical with identical holes on each side and a spot for the magnet on each side.
Here's the before with the NSX branding iron:
Removal is easy. Use a flat head screwdriver or a pick tool to lift out the false bottom and then it's 4 phillips head screws and the whole console lifts right out.
Once it's out, open it up and remove the 8 screws from the edge of the cover and the 2 screws holding the hinge to the lid:
Then you'll need a smaller screw driver to remove the remaining 4 screws from the hinges (2 each) and then the lid will separate from the console:
Installation is the reverse, I opted to attach the two big screws for the hinges first as it made it easier to hold the lid in place and then I actually didn't use the 4 small screws, seems like overkill honestly:
Then just place it back in the car and 4 screws later you're all done:
I'm slowly chipping away at all of the interior modifications I need to do for the Type-S transformation so here is another one...the Type-S armrest.
P/N: 83405-SL0-Z00ZA
The trick here is that the bottom piece to the Type-S armrest is designed for a RHD car so you need to reuse the bottom piece from you current armrest to make it work. And then because it's a single piece armrest you'll need a '91 or '92 center speaker cover. Since mine is a '91 I didn't have any issues with that part.
Notice how the holes for the hinges are on the right side and the magnet placement is on the left (or when turned over magnet on right and hinges on left which is reverse of the LHD center console):
But you'll also notice that the bottom of the armrest piece is symmetrical with identical holes on each side and a spot for the magnet on each side.
Here's the before with the NSX branding iron:
Removal is easy. Use a flat head screwdriver or a pick tool to lift out the false bottom and then it's 4 phillips head screws and the whole console lifts right out.
Once it's out, open it up and remove the 8 screws from the edge of the cover and the 2 screws holding the hinge to the lid:
Then you'll need a smaller screw driver to remove the remaining 4 screws from the hinges (2 each) and then the lid will separate from the console:
Installation is the reverse, I opted to attach the two big screws for the hinges first as it made it easier to hold the lid in place and then I actually didn't use the 4 small screws, seems like overkill honestly:
Then just place it back in the car and 4 screws later you're all done:
Car looks great man. Keep up the good work!
3 more interior updates
I had 3 more minor interior updates I wanted to make prior to the weekend.
Before (battered coin tray, mesh shift boot, Acura branded tape cassette door):
My original coin tray had the felt pulled off it and it looked bad so that was on the list. As much as I like the 02+ NSX-R mesh shift boot, the "carbon fiber" just doesn't match or flow with the rest of the interior.
I actually have a JDM Switch Panel and switches to put in the coin tray's place, but I haven't had a chance to create the wires for them so for now just the standard coin tray will do.
I purchased both a NA1 NSX-R leather shift boot and the Type-S shift boot. For now the NA1 NSX-R shift boot will go in. The Type-S boot is for down the road if I put in a 6spd MT.
So interesting note on the shift boot. I HATE the zip tie. After cutting off the excess it makes for such a sharp edge I feel like it's going to rip through the boot at any moment. I'm going to try orthodontic rubber bands or a rubber washer and see if either of those can expand and retract enough to hold the boot in place on the knob. I'll report back what I figure out.
The final piece of the puzzle is the Honda logo tape cassette door for the head unit. There have been a few Honda branded head units pop up recently but they are going for $400-$800 which is way too much when all I'm after is the cassette door. I found a Honda Bose head unit out of an old Civic on eBay and pulled the door off of that.
So technically you're supposed to take the whole radio apart so you can remove the face plate since it is held on by a ribbon cable. Well 3 of the 4 screws for the top cover came off no problem. The 4th...ya it's stripped. Luckily I was able to release the face plate enough that I could remove the tape cassette door and install the other one without a problem.
The only bad thing I found through this whole process is my head unit wire harness is hacked up so when I rip out the interior to go back to the OEM sub and speakers I'm going to have to solder the wires back together
Here it is all put back together:
I have ONE more MAJOR update that I'll post in a week or so, and then it will be relatively quiet on my front until the spring when more refresh and the repaint happens. In the interim it'll be full steam ahead and continuing the tear down of the @Honcho Type-S Zero project to get that ready for paint this winter.
And today while at a stop waiting to pull into a car show I heard the dreaded noise of the ALB unit followed by the Anti-Lock light coming on. After turning the car off and back on and driving a bit more it didn't return, but this might push the ALB conversion up by 6-8 months.
I had 3 more minor interior updates I wanted to make prior to the weekend.
Before (battered coin tray, mesh shift boot, Acura branded tape cassette door):
My original coin tray had the felt pulled off it and it looked bad so that was on the list. As much as I like the 02+ NSX-R mesh shift boot, the "carbon fiber" just doesn't match or flow with the rest of the interior.
I actually have a JDM Switch Panel and switches to put in the coin tray's place, but I haven't had a chance to create the wires for them so for now just the standard coin tray will do.
I purchased both a NA1 NSX-R leather shift boot and the Type-S shift boot. For now the NA1 NSX-R shift boot will go in. The Type-S boot is for down the road if I put in a 6spd MT.
So interesting note on the shift boot. I HATE the zip tie. After cutting off the excess it makes for such a sharp edge I feel like it's going to rip through the boot at any moment. I'm going to try orthodontic rubber bands or a rubber washer and see if either of those can expand and retract enough to hold the boot in place on the knob. I'll report back what I figure out.
The final piece of the puzzle is the Honda logo tape cassette door for the head unit. There have been a few Honda branded head units pop up recently but they are going for $400-$800 which is way too much when all I'm after is the cassette door. I found a Honda Bose head unit out of an old Civic on eBay and pulled the door off of that.
So technically you're supposed to take the whole radio apart so you can remove the face plate since it is held on by a ribbon cable. Well 3 of the 4 screws for the top cover came off no problem. The 4th...ya it's stripped. Luckily I was able to release the face plate enough that I could remove the tape cassette door and install the other one without a problem.
The only bad thing I found through this whole process is my head unit wire harness is hacked up so when I rip out the interior to go back to the OEM sub and speakers I'm going to have to solder the wires back together
Here it is all put back together:
I have ONE more MAJOR update that I'll post in a week or so, and then it will be relatively quiet on my front until the spring when more refresh and the repaint happens. In the interim it'll be full steam ahead and continuing the tear down of the @Honcho Type-S Zero project to get that ready for paint this winter.
And today while at a stop waiting to pull into a car show I heard the dreaded noise of the ALB unit followed by the Anti-Lock light coming on. After turning the car off and back on and driving a bit more it didn't return, but this might push the ALB conversion up by 6-8 months.
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Thanks man! I'm so happy with how they turned out. I don't think they could have been done better.
Thank you! I appreciate it so much!
Quest for the Holy Grail pt 1
One of the, “Maybe one day if I can find them,” items has always been the Type-S wheels. I know most people spend a long time searching so I knew I had to start my search early and be ready to pull the trigger when the day came. I kept my eyes peeled and a set popped up for sale in April. Sold in less than 10 minutes. DAMN. Then another set came up in May, pretty rough but they had tires on them so that was a no go because shipping would have killed me. Then late May yet another set came up for sale. They had been powder coated a bronze color, but they were in great shape. I lost them at the last second because my increased approved bid limit didn’t go through in time. I was feeling pretty defeated, 3 sets had come and gone in a matter of 6 weeks. What were the chances a 4th set would pop up?
Not even a week later on a whim I decided to check the auctions and to my surprise another set was listed! The roughest of roughest of rough sets went up for sale, but these were the RG255A/RG256A version of the wheels. After talking to a few other owners and trying my damnest to research it, the consensus came back that the “A” version is an OEM Honda NSX BBS Type-S wheel but it was sold through Honda Access hence the “A” in the model number and why they came with BBS center caps and not Honda center caps.
I figured this would be my best shot at getting the wheels at a good price and I figured, how much could the refresh really cost? I reached out to [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] to ask about his refresh process and he reassured me these were the wheels to get. The only problem…tires on two of the wheels. Thankfully [MENTION=25247]MexiRicer[/MENTION] to the rescue! He helped me put a plan of action together to get the wheels and then have them unmounted and shipped over. A week later the auction ended and two weeks later I had the wheels.
Pics from the auction listing:
One of the, “Maybe one day if I can find them,” items has always been the Type-S wheels. I know most people spend a long time searching so I knew I had to start my search early and be ready to pull the trigger when the day came. I kept my eyes peeled and a set popped up for sale in April. Sold in less than 10 minutes. DAMN. Then another set came up in May, pretty rough but they had tires on them so that was a no go because shipping would have killed me. Then late May yet another set came up for sale. They had been powder coated a bronze color, but they were in great shape. I lost them at the last second because my increased approved bid limit didn’t go through in time. I was feeling pretty defeated, 3 sets had come and gone in a matter of 6 weeks. What were the chances a 4th set would pop up?
Not even a week later on a whim I decided to check the auctions and to my surprise another set was listed! The roughest of roughest of rough sets went up for sale, but these were the RG255A/RG256A version of the wheels. After talking to a few other owners and trying my damnest to research it, the consensus came back that the “A” version is an OEM Honda NSX BBS Type-S wheel but it was sold through Honda Access hence the “A” in the model number and why they came with BBS center caps and not Honda center caps.
I figured this would be my best shot at getting the wheels at a good price and I figured, how much could the refresh really cost? I reached out to [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] to ask about his refresh process and he reassured me these were the wheels to get. The only problem…tires on two of the wheels. Thankfully [MENTION=25247]MexiRicer[/MENTION] to the rescue! He helped me put a plan of action together to get the wheels and then have them unmounted and shipped over. A week later the auction ended and two weeks later I had the wheels.
Pics from the auction listing:
Quest for the Holy Grail pt 2
Just for you Mexi I'll stretch this to a 3 part series :biggrin::biggrin:
_____________________________________________
Opening the boxes was both pure excitement and pure horror. The pictures didn’t do the wheels justice for just how bad they really were. All of the lug nut holes were pure rust. Tons of corrosion in the barrels. Rust where the lip wheel weights had been attached. The valve stems were rusted. But surprisingly the curb rash and scratching weren’t terrible. As I started to investigate the lug nut inserts I came to a sad conclusion, some of the lug nut inserts were going to have to be replaced, the rust was so bad you could take your fingernail and chip out the metal! I also had a brief moment of concern where I feared a couple of wheels may need to be junked because the rust was so bad on the backside that I didn't know if the inserts could be pressed out.
I cleaned up a few of the wheels with some Evapo-rust and to my surprise most of them turned out good! But one front wheel had to be redone. I found a shop in town that could get the work done but if you do 1 insert you have to do all 5 so a small unexpected cost. Once the wheel was back though the lug nut inserts all looked good as new:
Okay okay okay.... building up the suSPENCE!!! "Holy grail hunt pt.1" Where is pt.2 dammit!
Just for you Mexi I'll stretch this to a 3 part series :biggrin::biggrin:
_____________________________________________
Opening the boxes was both pure excitement and pure horror. The pictures didn’t do the wheels justice for just how bad they really were. All of the lug nut holes were pure rust. Tons of corrosion in the barrels. Rust where the lip wheel weights had been attached. The valve stems were rusted. But surprisingly the curb rash and scratching weren’t terrible. As I started to investigate the lug nut inserts I came to a sad conclusion, some of the lug nut inserts were going to have to be replaced, the rust was so bad you could take your fingernail and chip out the metal! I also had a brief moment of concern where I feared a couple of wheels may need to be junked because the rust was so bad on the backside that I didn't know if the inserts could be pressed out.
I cleaned up a few of the wheels with some Evapo-rust and to my surprise most of them turned out good! But one front wheel had to be redone. I found a shop in town that could get the work done but if you do 1 insert you have to do all 5 so a small unexpected cost. Once the wheel was back though the lug nut inserts all looked good as new:
My let's see where this one goes "build" thread
To paint or to powder coat? I decided that I wanted to paint them but of course BBS Japan being so secretive there is no PPG or Dupont code for BMW Silver NH606M (FYI for powder coat, Prismatic Powder color Acura Silver is a pretty damn close match). I had purchased OEM Type-S center caps in BMW Silver so I took one to the best paint match shop in town and I think they came out almost perfect:
The next decision to make is what rubber to wrap them in with so few options for the 16 inch front in OEM size. I was pretty much set on going the Hankook Ventus RS-4 route with a 205/45/16 for the front since the actual width is 213mm for the tire. However, Tire Rack was out of them and it was going to be a while until they got more in (which didn’t make sense compared to what their website said). While I waited I kept checking on the status of the Yokohama Advan AD08RS from a retailer in Europe and luckily enough the rear tire size came back in stock so I pulled the trigger on those (and not a moment too soon, apparently here we are and a month later they no longer ship to the US):
My only issue now is center caps. Since these are the “A” models they have the extra metal in the center cap area that keeps the OEM caps from fitting all the way down. I have seen a couple threads of other owners with the “A” models and they have the correct fitting BBS center caps. I reached out to try and get the part number from the back of those caps but at this time I have not heard back from them. Hopefully they don’t mind coughing up the information one day.
OEM Type-S Center Cap P/N:
I came up with Plan B. I decided I’d shave down the tabs on the OEM caps a few millimeters so they would sit flush on the wheel. The only problem with this approach is the tabs aren’t set in far enough on the cap so they don’t “click” into place. On the recommendation of @streeter I picked up some clear RTV and used that to “seal” the center cap onto the wheel.
I had to wait a month for the paint to fully de-gas and then I dropped them off at a local shop to have them ceramic coated and tires mounted. Now the moment @MexiRicer has been patiently waiting for:
Overall I must say I'm extremely happy with how everything turned out. I might have the wheels chemically stripped and repainted next summer to fix a few flaws but I'm still in shock with how this all came together.
Oh and don't worry, both [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25869]flexthatdx[/MENTION] already put me on blast for the front wheels being on the wrong sides :tongue:. It has been fixed, I promise.
To paint or to powder coat? I decided that I wanted to paint them but of course BBS Japan being so secretive there is no PPG or Dupont code for BMW Silver NH606M (FYI for powder coat, Prismatic Powder color Acura Silver is a pretty damn close match). I had purchased OEM Type-S center caps in BMW Silver so I took one to the best paint match shop in town and I think they came out almost perfect:
The next decision to make is what rubber to wrap them in with so few options for the 16 inch front in OEM size. I was pretty much set on going the Hankook Ventus RS-4 route with a 205/45/16 for the front since the actual width is 213mm for the tire. However, Tire Rack was out of them and it was going to be a while until they got more in (which didn’t make sense compared to what their website said). While I waited I kept checking on the status of the Yokohama Advan AD08RS from a retailer in Europe and luckily enough the rear tire size came back in stock so I pulled the trigger on those (and not a moment too soon, apparently here we are and a month later they no longer ship to the US):
My only issue now is center caps. Since these are the “A” models they have the extra metal in the center cap area that keeps the OEM caps from fitting all the way down. I have seen a couple threads of other owners with the “A” models and they have the correct fitting BBS center caps. I reached out to try and get the part number from the back of those caps but at this time I have not heard back from them. Hopefully they don’t mind coughing up the information one day.
OEM Type-S Center Cap P/N:
I came up with Plan B. I decided I’d shave down the tabs on the OEM caps a few millimeters so they would sit flush on the wheel. The only problem with this approach is the tabs aren’t set in far enough on the cap so they don’t “click” into place. On the recommendation of @streeter I picked up some clear RTV and used that to “seal” the center cap onto the wheel.
I had to wait a month for the paint to fully de-gas and then I dropped them off at a local shop to have them ceramic coated and tires mounted. Now the moment @MexiRicer has been patiently waiting for:
Overall I must say I'm extremely happy with how everything turned out. I might have the wheels chemically stripped and repainted next summer to fix a few flaws but I'm still in shock with how this all came together.
Oh and don't worry, both [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25869]flexthatdx[/MENTION] already put me on blast for the front wheels being on the wrong sides :tongue:. It has been fixed, I promise
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- Joined
- 24 January 2004
- Messages
- 1,475
They look almost perfect!! May I suggest the zanardi black lug nuts or the s2000 cr black lug nuts. Both look identical in person so buy the cheaper. You will be glad you did or send me the bill.
I run them in my type s wheels and 02-05 oem wheels. For my 02-05 sos wheels in washi grey I’m running my nsx mugen wheel lug nuts.
I run them in my type s wheels and 02-05 oem wheels. For my 02-05 sos wheels in washi grey I’m running my nsx mugen wheel lug nuts.
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I went with the chrome because all of the examples I saw on Yokoo had chrome lugs. I do keep going back to Akbar’s wheels and looking at how the black lugs look. I think both you and he are onto something, I will probably start looking for a set of black lugs.
Out of curiosity I did a quick search and it looks like both the Zanardi lugs and S2K CR lugs are actually the same P/N:
90304-SA7-811
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Absolutely beautiful Spence. I am hating life right now not having ordered my tires a few weeks sooner lol... all good... Will give me a chance to have the r-s4 under my experience belt. If for some strange reason down the road you want to change up tires before the life of them are over, shoot me a pm
This thing is coming together so damn nicely and in record time at that...
This thing is coming together so damn nicely and in record time at that...
Ya between these two pictures and seeing Akbar's Type-S wheels with black lugs in person I'm going to make the swap to black. Now just to find them for less than $6.50/lug nut...they are only $3 in Japan but shipping sucks because of the weight of 20 of them.
Also did Honda make an OEM lug nut lock in either black or chrome for the NSX or I guess just in general?
Absolutely beautiful Spence. I am hating life right now not having ordered my tires a few weeks sooner lol... all good... Will give me a chance to have the r-s4 under my experience belt. If for some strange reason down the road you want to change up tires before the life of them are over, shoot me a pm
This thing is coming together so damn nicely and in record time at that...
I got extremely lucky since they were sold out of the rears, I literally checked everyday and as soon as they were back in stock I pulled the trigger. I just don't understand what changed in a month to make them no longer willing to ship to the US. I really think we need to poll the community and see if we can get a large enough interest in 215/45/16 AD08R and if the number is high enough maybe Tire Rack will do a huge order for us? Either that or someone needs to become friends with someone at Yokohama and become the NSX supplier lol.
She came together so much faster than I had anticipated. I'm on 100% hold now from buying anything lol. I still have the Type-S Battery parts I need to put in but so many major things happening next spring that I need to save for...
B-82 paint job
New Radiator
Coolant Hoses (I actually already have them)
A/C Condensers
Brake Rebuild
Steering Rack Rebuild
New clutch (???) - Maybe I'll try adjusting it and see if that helps first
ABS Upgrade - I REALLY hope I don't have to do this sooner
Try to restore OEM stereo/wiring/etc.
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