My let's see where this one goes "build" thread
- Thread starter NSX_n00b
- Start date
This is me every day
Agreed, 10/10, now I'm just waiting for the 256A content
You and Mexi should caravan up here and wrench on the S Zero for a day or two! Spencer and I were visiting auto body shops yesterday...
Small Engine Bay Update
Things have been rather quiet for the last month or so, my apologies, life got a little busy and I've been trying to finalize a couple of major things. August should be a pretty fun month so stay tuned.
In the meantime I've made another small update to the engine bay. I took out the Cedar Ridge Fabrication (CRF) engine chassis brace and put in the 02+ NSX-R engine brace. Some of you may have seen the thread I started asking about the lack of engine brace in the Type-S. The conclusion was that since the frame was reinforced there was no need for an engine brace in any of the NA2 coupes (except the 02+ NSX-R), just the targas. Well since I have a 1991 my frame isn't reinforced so I was unsure about running no engine brace. After some slight nudging from [MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION] and [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] I decided to go ahead and get the 02+ NSX-R engine brace and replace the CRF one.
The Parts Needed:
Engine Brace - 74691-SL0-Z10
Left Side Bracket* - 74693-SL0-020
Right Side Bracket* - 74692-SL0-020
Bolts (x2 or x4?) - 93404-0802007
*: You don't actually need new brackets if you still have your original ones. The P/N did change over the years but it's my understanding they all work. I opted to buy new ones because they were only $15 each so I figured why not.
The Japan Parts Catalog that I read said the 02+ NSX-R only used 2 bolts so I only bought 2. I'm thinking I should probably pick up 2 more and run it with all 4.
Really nothing special to the install but here is the engine bay before with the CRF brace:
and after with the 02+ NSX-R brace:
Like I said, small update but an update nonetheless.
Things have been rather quiet for the last month or so, my apologies, life got a little busy and I've been trying to finalize a couple of major things. August should be a pretty fun month so stay tuned.
In the meantime I've made another small update to the engine bay. I took out the Cedar Ridge Fabrication (CRF) engine chassis brace and put in the 02+ NSX-R engine brace. Some of you may have seen the thread I started asking about the lack of engine brace in the Type-S. The conclusion was that since the frame was reinforced there was no need for an engine brace in any of the NA2 coupes (except the 02+ NSX-R), just the targas. Well since I have a 1991 my frame isn't reinforced so I was unsure about running no engine brace. After some slight nudging from [MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION] and [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] I decided to go ahead and get the 02+ NSX-R engine brace and replace the CRF one.
The Parts Needed:
Engine Brace - 74691-SL0-Z10
Left Side Bracket* - 74693-SL0-020
Right Side Bracket* - 74692-SL0-020
Bolts (x2 or x4?) - 93404-0802007
*: You don't actually need new brackets if you still have your original ones. The P/N did change over the years but it's my understanding they all work. I opted to buy new ones because they were only $15 each so I figured why not.
The Japan Parts Catalog that I read said the 02+ NSX-R only used 2 bolts so I only bought 2. I'm thinking I should probably pick up 2 more and run it with all 4.
Really nothing special to the install but here is the engine bay before with the CRF brace:
and after with the 02+ NSX-R brace:
Like I said, small update but an update nonetheless.
August will be a fun month indeed...
Suspension Update
My apologies for being so quiet lately but I was working on a few things that were taking most of my
time and energy to work out and they were slow moving processes.
First on the list, the Type-S suspension. As some of you know from this and a couple of other threads
from me this has been quite the adventure. Long story short, you cannot buy them brand new pre-
assembled anymore and I thought I lacked the tools to properly assemble it. I got a very reasonable
quote from my local dealership (Pikes Peak Acura) who has a very experienced NSX tech (Paul Z) to
assemble the suspension, remove the Tein coilvers, install the Type-S suspension and Type-S rear/front
sway bars, and align the car to Type-S specs. It wasn’t until AFTER I dropped the car off that my engineer
mind had the light bulb go off and me realize there was an easy way to get the angles right, but oh well
too late.
Took them two days and I am VERY happy with the results. I feel more in control of the car in tight turns,
high speed turns, and over Colorado’s crappy roads. Nothing against the Tein, but it wasn’t my cup of
tea, although I do miss the ride height/stance of the coilovers. Trade-offs must be made sometimes.
Not many pictures for this since I didn’t do the work myself but here is the before ride height:
And here she stands now:
The current setup photos were snapped by a stranger who spotted me out driving. I should have some better ones this weekend.
I need to put the car through the paces a bit more which is perfect because we have a CO Owners
BBQ/drive this weekend.
My apologies for being so quiet lately but I was working on a few things that were taking most of my
time and energy to work out and they were slow moving processes.
First on the list, the Type-S suspension. As some of you know from this and a couple of other threads
from me this has been quite the adventure. Long story short, you cannot buy them brand new pre-
assembled anymore and I thought I lacked the tools to properly assemble it. I got a very reasonable
quote from my local dealership (Pikes Peak Acura) who has a very experienced NSX tech (Paul Z) to
assemble the suspension, remove the Tein coilvers, install the Type-S suspension and Type-S rear/front
sway bars, and align the car to Type-S specs. It wasn’t until AFTER I dropped the car off that my engineer
mind had the light bulb go off and me realize there was an easy way to get the angles right, but oh well
too late.
Took them two days and I am VERY happy with the results. I feel more in control of the car in tight turns,
high speed turns, and over Colorado’s crappy roads. Nothing against the Tein, but it wasn’t my cup of
tea, although I do miss the ride height/stance of the coilovers. Trade-offs must be made sometimes.
Not many pictures for this since I didn’t do the work myself but here is the before ride height:
And here she stands now:
The current setup photos were snapped by a stranger who spotted me out driving. I should have some better ones this weekend.
I need to put the car through the paces a bit more which is perfect because we have a CO Owners
BBQ/drive this weekend.
One step closer...
Glad you like the Type-S. Everybody does.
Glad you like the Type-S. Everybody does.
Suspension Update
One step closer indeed, but if finish putting everything on that we have amassed so far I'd be 10 steps closer
I put another 200 miles on the car yesterday and got an even better feel for the new suspension set up. I am falling in love with it more and more with each mile. The only thing is still the higher stance, but again...trade-offs.
Here are a couple better photos showing the new ride height:
One step closer...
Glad you like the Type-S. Everybody does.
One step closer indeed, but if finish putting everything on that we have amassed so far I'd be 10 steps closer
I put another 200 miles on the car yesterday and got an even better feel for the new suspension set up. I am falling in love with it more and more with each mile. The only thing is still the higher stance, but again...trade-offs.
Here are a couple better photos showing the new ride height:
Interior Update - Seats Part 1
Next up is a little interior update. The build plan was always to go the Recaro PP ABE route later this year and do a few things to make them resemble real Type-S seats. But then a few weeks ago a very special set of seats went up for sale. It took some negotiating to figure out the logistics of delivery and what not but after a couple of weeks a deal was finally made. I put down a deposit and then two weeks later I met @Brylek in Lincoln, NE to finalize the purchase of a beautiful set of Downforce DF-R seats with all the bells and whistles.
The seats are stunning in person. Here they are back home in my basement:
The only dilemma I face now is the outer cover is suede and Type-S are leather but for now I don’t care, maybe down the line I’ll have leather ones made but these are just in too good of shape to do anything with right now. But the seat cushion/seat back I as willing to redo. Using more of the blue perforated suede @MexiRicer helped me find that I used for the door cards I had a local custom upholstery shop redo the cushions:
The upholsterer did an AMAZING job and didn’t charge me a fortune to do it. On top of that he got them
done in 2 days!
Not only that but it didn’t take anywhere near as much fabric as we had been led to believe so now I
have more than enough to redo the one door card I messed up and keep some spare fabric if something
happens.
Next up is a little interior update. The build plan was always to go the Recaro PP ABE route later this year and do a few things to make them resemble real Type-S seats. But then a few weeks ago a very special set of seats went up for sale. It took some negotiating to figure out the logistics of delivery and what not but after a couple of weeks a deal was finally made. I put down a deposit and then two weeks later I met @Brylek in Lincoln, NE to finalize the purchase of a beautiful set of Downforce DF-R seats with all the bells and whistles.
The seats are stunning in person. Here they are back home in my basement:
The only dilemma I face now is the outer cover is suede and Type-S are leather but for now I don’t care, maybe down the line I’ll have leather ones made but these are just in too good of shape to do anything with right now. But the seat cushion/seat back I as willing to redo. Using more of the blue perforated suede @MexiRicer helped me find that I used for the door cards I had a local custom upholstery shop redo the cushions:
The upholsterer did an AMAZING job and didn’t charge me a fortune to do it. On top of that he got them
done in 2 days!
Not only that but it didn’t take anywhere near as much fabric as we had been led to believe so now I
have more than enough to redo the one door card I messed up and keep some spare fabric if something
happens.
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Interior Update - Seats Part 2
The only issue I knew I would have is that the seat harness for the DF-R Passenger seat is the 6 pin plug and with my car being a '91 the passenger seat plug was only the 4 pin. Thankfully a quick prime search and I discovered that @nsxnemo had created an adapter for a set of seats. He hooked me up with the plugs and pins I needed to make my own adapter. HUGE Thanks Nemo!
With the seats done now it was time to install them. Well @Arkaid had just swapped his seats for PP FIA and as luck would have it, he was driving through Colorado Springs if I waited a couple of days. He came over one night when he was in town and lent a hand and his knowledge with the seat install to help me get the OEM ones out and the new ones in. He got some pretty black Alcantara for his troubles.
Out with the old:
In with the new:
What a difference they make in the car. They are a little snug and will take a bit of getting used to but everything about them is still so new I feel like they don’t have much seat time at all and really haven’t started to break in. Now I really need to quit being so lazy and get the Type-S steering wheel and shift boot installed to finish off the interior.
The only issue I knew I would have is that the seat harness for the DF-R Passenger seat is the 6 pin plug and with my car being a '91 the passenger seat plug was only the 4 pin. Thankfully a quick prime search and I discovered that @nsxnemo had created an adapter for a set of seats. He hooked me up with the plugs and pins I needed to make my own adapter. HUGE Thanks Nemo!
With the seats done now it was time to install them. Well @Arkaid had just swapped his seats for PP FIA and as luck would have it, he was driving through Colorado Springs if I waited a couple of days. He came over one night when he was in town and lent a hand and his knowledge with the seat install to help me get the OEM ones out and the new ones in. He got some pretty black Alcantara for his troubles.
Out with the old:
In with the new:
What a difference they make in the car. They are a little snug and will take a bit of getting used to but everything about them is still so new I feel like they don’t have much seat time at all and really haven’t started to break in. Now I really need to quit being so lazy and get the Type-S steering wheel and shift boot installed to finish off the interior.
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The seats look great in your car! The upholstery guy did an amazing job wit the cushion, too! Nice meeting you and your wife, too bad we were all so tired we didn't have more time to chat, hopefully we will run into each other again soon.
Holy crap those seats look good. Now you just have to paint it. 
I can’t wait for you to see them in person.
Now you just have to paint it.
We just need to get someone who will do both the S-Zero and the S for a reasonable price [emoji1787]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Type S Dreams :love-struck: Daaaamn man!!! They're gorgeous. I need to find a used pair of recaro pole positions ASAP and get my type s 'fake it til you make it' seats done and upholstered
That's my plan- already have the fabric and Spencer found a place that can do a vinyl wrap on the back of the seats that will match the carbon-kevlar pattern of the OEM. We can now use Spencer's new seats as the template for that pattern lol.
My let's see where this one goes "build" thread
Thanks for the compliment.
The Type-S front sway bar:
51300-SL0-003
The Type-S rear sway bar:
52300-SL0-J01
I’m out of town at the moment but when I get home next week I can get you the Type-S alignment specs.
EDIT: [MENTION=10201]goldNSX[/MENTION] made a comment that may have been rescinded that I think is actually worth mentioning. The Type-S front sway bar is the same sway bar used in all NA2 coupes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the compliment.
The Type-S front sway bar:
51300-SL0-003
The Type-S rear sway bar:
52300-SL0-J01
I’m out of town at the moment but when I get home next week I can get you the Type-S alignment specs.
EDIT: [MENTION=10201]goldNSX[/MENTION] made a comment that may have been rescinded that I think is actually worth mentioning. The Type-S front sway bar is the same sway bar used in all NA2 coupes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Excellent match to the blue container in the background.
Joke aside, they really cool.
Hahaha. Didn’t even realize the trash can was in the back. But thank you, I think they turned out great.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My let's see where this one goes "build" thread
Meant to edit a post not quote. Mods can delete this reply.
Meant to edit a post not quote. Mods can delete this reply.
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Car is looking fantastic! Great work.
Mike
Mike
Alright, the people are getting restless... we need updated pics!!
Small Seat Update
Since [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] asked so nicely here is an update...
Well it didn't take long for me to realize that the DF-R seats had the OEM buckles attached. It really didn't bug me too much but a few passengers were dealing with the seat belt digging into their hip. Thankfully a while back I bought a set of Type-S/NSX-R seat belt buckles.
With OEM Buckles:
Notice how it sits low in the seat and angles inward quite a bit.
Here are a few side by side comparisons of the different shapes of the buckles:
OEM on left, NSX-R on right
OEM in front, NSX-R in rear
NSX-R left, OEM right
So then my first hurdle of the day. Turns out the NSX-R buckle harness for the driver side is a female connector, well so was the connector on the DF-R driver's seat harness. I didn't have any 2 pin male connector housings but thanks to [MENTION=21934]nsxnemo[/MENTION] I had some leftover male pins so I rigged up a quick "adapter" for now (I ordered the connector housings to fix this already):
It isn't pretty but it'll do for now, although I actually think I could have left it disconnected and I wouldn't have had the warning light anyways.
Here is what it looks like with the NSX-R buckle, you'll notice it's angled more upward and sits a little higher on the bolster.
And since I forgot in my earlier post, here is the adapter I had to make for the passenger seat since the DF-R harness is designed for the later model passenger seat harnesses and mine is only a 4 pin:
Since [MENTION=33027]Arkaid[/MENTION] asked so nicely here is an update...
Well it didn't take long for me to realize that the DF-R seats had the OEM buckles attached. It really didn't bug me too much but a few passengers were dealing with the seat belt digging into their hip. Thankfully a while back I bought a set of Type-S/NSX-R seat belt buckles.
With OEM Buckles:
Notice how it sits low in the seat and angles inward quite a bit.
Here are a few side by side comparisons of the different shapes of the buckles:
OEM on left, NSX-R on right
OEM in front, NSX-R in rear
NSX-R left, OEM right
So then my first hurdle of the day. Turns out the NSX-R buckle harness for the driver side is a female connector, well so was the connector on the DF-R driver's seat harness. I didn't have any 2 pin male connector housings but thanks to [MENTION=21934]nsxnemo[/MENTION] I had some leftover male pins so I rigged up a quick "adapter" for now (I ordered the connector housings to fix this already):
It isn't pretty but it'll do for now, although I actually think I could have left it disconnected and I wouldn't have had the warning light anyways.
Here is what it looks like with the NSX-R buckle, you'll notice it's angled more upward and sits a little higher on the bolster.
And since I forgot in my earlier post, here is the adapter I had to make for the passenger seat since the DF-R harness is designed for the later model passenger seat harnesses and mine is only a 4 pin:
Steering Wheel Update #1
I'm not going to post a step by step on how to do the steering wheel swap out because there are a couple of great threads already which are what I referenced to do this, but I did want to post a few of the part numbers for easy reference for people.
Type-S Steering Wheel:
Type-S Horn Button:
Type-S/NSX-R Hub:
Horn Button Holder (Silver Ring between Hub and Steering Wheel):
Horn Trim Ring (Black Ring on top of steering wheel):
Steering Wheel Mounting Screws (interesting note, some had letters/numbers embossed on the heads and others didn't)
19mm Nut to hold hub onto steering column:
To rig up the horn connection I opted to go with the Horn Shoe approach instead of the make your own metal piece, here is the P/N:
I'm trying to do things as cleanly as possible and I really didn't like the, "just stick bare wire into the SRS connector," approach a lot of owners do. Thanks to @MotorMouth93 I went to the junkyard and ripped out the SRS connector from a '93 (I think) Honda Civic:
I de-pinned it and then took the pins off the ribbon cable. I soldered a line for the horn to the pin and crimped a male connector to the other end to fit the horn shoe. Then I took the fuse from TheNSXShop steering wheel wiring kit and soldered the wire to the pins for 4/6.
I forgot to take a good picture of it but you can kinda of see it here clipped in place:
The only other part you MIGHT want is the Type-S lower steering column cover. I tried to order one for @Honcho and I earlier this year and after 2 months the order was cancelled and the part was labeled NLA. But I put a few feelers out and I found one that was stashed away in a garage:
I'm not going to lie, Honda kind of cheaped out on this part in my opinion. It's the standard lower cover with a small plastic plug glued in the half moon cutout. At least the NSX-R is a full piece (although you need all 3 pieces for that to match). Oh well, for $30 I can't complain too much.
I'm not going to post a step by step on how to do the steering wheel swap out because there are a couple of great threads already which are what I referenced to do this, but I did want to post a few of the part numbers for easy reference for people.
Type-S Steering Wheel:
Type-S Horn Button:
Type-S/NSX-R Hub:
Horn Button Holder (Silver Ring between Hub and Steering Wheel):
Horn Trim Ring (Black Ring on top of steering wheel):
Steering Wheel Mounting Screws (interesting note, some had letters/numbers embossed on the heads and others didn't)
19mm Nut to hold hub onto steering column:
To rig up the horn connection I opted to go with the Horn Shoe approach instead of the make your own metal piece, here is the P/N:
I'm trying to do things as cleanly as possible and I really didn't like the, "just stick bare wire into the SRS connector," approach a lot of owners do. Thanks to @MotorMouth93 I went to the junkyard and ripped out the SRS connector from a '93 (I think) Honda Civic:
I de-pinned it and then took the pins off the ribbon cable. I soldered a line for the horn to the pin and crimped a male connector to the other end to fit the horn shoe. Then I took the fuse from TheNSXShop steering wheel wiring kit and soldered the wire to the pins for 4/6.
I forgot to take a good picture of it but you can kinda of see it here clipped in place:
The only other part you MIGHT want is the Type-S lower steering column cover. I tried to order one for @Honcho and I earlier this year and after 2 months the order was cancelled and the part was labeled NLA. But I put a few feelers out and I found one that was stashed away in a garage:
I'm not going to lie, Honda kind of cheaped out on this part in my opinion. It's the standard lower cover with a small plastic plug glued in the half moon cutout. At least the NSX-R is a full piece (although you need all 3 pieces for that to match). Oh well, for $30 I can't complain too much.
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Steering Wheel Update #2
The main thread I referenced to do this was from @Kaz-kzukNA1:
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.p...teering-wheel-with-OEM-boss&p=58209#post58209
The thread for the Horn Shoe part is here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...o-Horn-Button-to-work?highlight=35259-sh3-a02
Without further ado...out with the old:
Here you can see the horn shoe and my wire connected to it:
My line was WAY TOO LONG but I was able to safely coil it up behind the lower steering cover, the green/purple you see on the wire loom is the fuse that's used to cancel the SRS light:
Hub attached:
Wheel attached. **It's off center because I was a moron and didn't hold the steering wheel when removing the nut that held the OEM wheel to the column and it turned ever so slightly. I was careful and put the Type-S wheel on at the same angle so it is perfectly straight now all said and done**
Horn button and ring on, all buttoned up:
A few photos of the finished product with the rest of the interior:
Well back into the garage I go...
The main thread I referenced to do this was from @Kaz-kzukNA1:
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.p...teering-wheel-with-OEM-boss&p=58209#post58209
The thread for the Horn Shoe part is here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...o-Horn-Button-to-work?highlight=35259-sh3-a02
Without further ado...out with the old:
Here you can see the horn shoe and my wire connected to it:
My line was WAY TOO LONG but I was able to safely coil it up behind the lower steering cover, the green/purple you see on the wire loom is the fuse that's used to cancel the SRS light:
Hub attached:
Wheel attached. **It's off center because I was a moron and didn't hold the steering wheel when removing the nut that held the OEM wheel to the column and it turned ever so slightly. I was careful and put the Type-S wheel on at the same angle so it is perfectly straight now all said and done**
Horn button and ring on, all buttoned up:
A few photos of the finished product with the rest of the interior:
Well back into the garage I go...
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Looks great!
I'm going to have to order one of those little horn contacts, I like that OEM solution better than the DIY metal plate I used for mine.
I'm going to have to order one of those little horn contacts, I like that OEM solution better than the DIY metal plate I used for mine.
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