- Joined
- 25 February 2012
- Messages
- 2,165
Ah, I got the RDX and the MDX mixed up. Okay, so the MDX and the TL SH-AWD have an NA J37. If you could build it out to 4000cc and force induction.... mmm.
My J swapped NSX...sorry for the wait. love or hate
- Thread starter Rogue MotorSports
- Start date
Ah, I got the RDX and the MDX mixed up. Okay, so the MDX and the TL SH-AWD have an NA J37. If you could build it out to 4000cc and force induction.... mmm.
i bought mine for 2k used. they run 2k to 2500 on the used market.
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The J to use is the J37A4 from the ZDX or TL SH-AWD. It has VTEC on both intake and exhaust. Great thread.
This is great stuff!
Subscribed.
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- Joined
- 7 March 2008
- Messages
- 175
Much cheaper. The 6mt lsd trans go from $800-$1200, engines are $300-$600, factory stroker ~$2000.
Im in the Tulsa area.
http://www.j32a.com/showthread.php?t=1003&page=14
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EHXT3W9suk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtqtB2FYYuU
Build thread. My ex wife removed all the pics from the photobucket account. I will re host one day.
well anyone wanna guess who he contacted to get this carout of florida? hehe..
thanks again for the lead on the car.
On the 3.2 I made 256 whp with intake and exhaust. On the 3.5 type s motor I made nearly 280 whp similar mods.
I will be running stock motors until I finish my TL drag car. In it I will be running a 3.7 crank and ~14.5:1 compression looking for mid 400s. After I get it where I want It I will build the 4.0 stroker with the 3.7 crank.
Tuning is not easy yet on this motor, as the factory system is drive by wire, and has a weird unorthodox hal effect sensor for the main crank pickup. It is probably going to be much easier to use a full stand alone and just build a trigger wheel for it.
They can, they just dont make power. I will usually take my 3.5 to around mid 7krpm. The factor springs cannot hold the rpm, and its pretty much useless because the power drops off.
Currently there are non available. However there are some in production, I cant say from who or where, but Im trying to get my hands on a beta as soon as its available.
The block is different on the j37 and transmissions are very rare and expensive. Better power is made with a stroked bored j32, and much much cheaper.
There are some custom fab'd itb setups for J's i've seen one in the past.
Really cool engines, hopefully a dohc DI version will come out in the next year or two with the new NSX.
I'm not to sure on the head flow when ported but with a good valve train with high lift cam and nice valve sizes and stronger springs it should rev nicely.
I'm a big fan of the manifold configuration and how easy it is to adapt the mod ability is more to the tune of 4cyl honda's.
Our C's are nice and rare with great potential because they are rare it makes tuning expensive. only Honda more exotic in this field would be a 5cyl G-Series
Really cool engines, hopefully a dohc DI version will come out in the next year or two with the new NSX.
I'm not to sure on the head flow when ported but with a good valve train with high lift cam and nice valve sizes and stronger springs it should rev nicely.
I'm a big fan of the manifold configuration and how easy it is to adapt the mod ability is more to the tune of 4cyl honda's.
Our C's are nice and rare with great potential because they are rare it makes tuning expensive. only Honda more exotic in this field would be a 5cyl G-Series
I always wondered if a J series could be made to work in the NSX and Bam here you are doing it. I agree the J series are dime a dozen, this is a very interesting build looking forward to seeing the end result. I have an '05 TL CT-Engineering h S/C low boost and I love the extra power and man does the S/C ever scream to redline. I do have the surging issues that others have experianced with the CT-Eng ACM I'd love to go high boost but would need to find a better way to adjust fuel/timing otherwise I'd lean it out and ping it to death in a heartbeat. I picked up an AEM F/IC doesn't work correctly, & can't find anyone that knows how to tune and make it work correctly here. I know the J&R ECU exists now but I heard has some issues with idle etc.
I could imagine turboing with a built J32/35/37 & proper ECU and tuning would result in some decent power maybe in the 700+ rwph all day long. What standalone do you plan on using in your build?
- Joined
- 7 March 2008
- Messages
- 175
I will be using the j and r full standalone ecu, because it will work with the factory cam and crank triggers. If it does not perform to my liking I will switch over to pro efi or motec.
oh wow! din't know HPD did that... very cool
shawn110975
Suspended
those pics are awesome. I love teh body kit they made for it and the pic fo the engine is so sexy
- Joined
- 13 September 2009
- Messages
- 672
And I thought the Kswapped NSX was crazy.... At first when I read J swapped, I thought you meant 2JZ....hahaha
Nice work! I'm also in OK. I've been contemplating this swap for some time now although I'll probably try to keep the NSX transmission and run an adapter plate. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.
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Actually we might have met at Hallett before.
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Actually we might have met at Hallett before.
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Subscribed.
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- 7 March 2008
- Messages
- 175
Yes. I was driving the TL in the festival of speed. Optimally I would have used the nsx trans.
Wow - I had no idea those motors were that cheap. Good idea, and good luck with your project!
When you get the mounts, axles, and other stuff figured out, you should think about selling conversion kits :smile:
Dave
When you get the mounts, axles, and other stuff figured out, you should think about selling conversion kits :smile:
Dave
Ha! i was just waiting to see who would look up the price first.
The base engines are dirty cheap we are talking $800 for a 3.5L
Wow, this is awesome. I too am in OK, but the Edmond area. I don't own an NSX currently, but I used to be heavy in the Honda scene back around 2000. With a few other guys, we started Oklahoma Speed. I sold my stake in OKS once I sold my last Honda and went a different direction. I have the itch to get back into the scene with an NSX at some point. I would love to check out your build some time.
How'd I miss this thread? Great build. I've been wondering what an NSX would be like with another suitable honda powerplant - to be frank, I thought about going the other direction with a turbo'd F20.
If you need any assistance, let me know. I'm local and would be glad to help.
If you need any assistance, let me know. I'm local and would be glad to help.
This one blew over like a hot balloon. But I appreciated it.
OP, excellent idea tackling this one. Can't wait to see the finished results.
Just a little comparo on how big the bank angle difference is:
J32A
C32A3 (Legend engine also used in G1 TL) SOHC
Keep in mind NSX DOHC engines are A lot wider due to there head layout than the SOHC engine above!
J32A
C32A3 (Legend engine also used in G1 TL) SOHC
Keep in mind NSX DOHC engines are A lot wider due to there head layout than the SOHC engine above!
- Joined
- 7 March 2008
- Messages
- 175
I have contacted a reputable mount builder and offered to bring them the car, engine and trans and buy a minimum 10 sets of mounts. And they had no interest. They told me the nsx community would feel betrayed and would not support it.
Once I have mine done. I may think about producing them if there is interest .
Hey Shawn how are you. Not sure if you remember me. I was at the dyno day with my prelude and was talking to you about the swap. I can use all tge help I can get, especially an extra point of view when fabbing the custom stuff.
I wonder how many auto nsx owners would like to swap to a 300hp motor and a 6 speed auto. It would totally change the car. Going that route would get 50 more hp for less than a Ctsc.
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Whats up guys. I saw the NSX Prime post on Facebook about this and like 30 people sent me the link to help you out. I have been building the J series for a few years now. I'm here to help with anything you need. I've done J30s to J36 strokers. If your seriously going turbo my recommendation is to not put that J32a3 in and don't use the J and R ecu. I would switch to a dbc engine like a J32a2/J35a3. Those are both the motors you should be using if your serious about power. All of those J37s and new type s J35a8s, stay away from them. I am currently building the most powerful J series out of a "stock" J36 Stroker, Precision 7175, AEM EMS Series 2, and a lot of fuel upgrades. I would sell that motor and I have a whole bunch of info you can utilize.
This is the project car. A 1998 Accord, kinda crazy huh? I like to be different. Thats a low compression J36 set up for boost. I am expecting about 850whp at 20psi on stock sleeves and e85. I beat the record for an all motor native J series car with it the first day with it ever at the track. 12.9 at 113.
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[TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5FF"]I wrote this all motor post for a different forum. Just copy and pasting it here. Almost everything here should be utilized for your turbo build. I would just change the motor. I would go out and buy a J35a3 from a 01-02 MDX. You will thank me later from the steel sleeves, to the best flowing heads. :tongue: This is just for a average builder on a budget. For you we could get over 1000whp with sleeves, aftermarket rods and pistons.
(*WARNING* Due to a lack of an aftermarket, most of the f/i, all motor builds will be decently similar)
Just going to write a guide real quick off the top of my head to get the ball rolling.
Lets Break down the Motor into certain Parts. Theres always the top half and bottom half of the motor to go by but i want to get more specific. There are so many different variations that its almost impossible for me to list everything. I'm just going to post the best I can for average swapped car. If you'll be looking for serious power, just ask.
-Top Half
Lets go from the intake filter to the valves.
The intake- Honestly, the intake is not a serious power gaining platform unless your build is serious. I'd recommend a stock air box with a K&N filter for most people. But if you have a J32a2, J35a3/4 you definitely want to gain some power via the intake your going to need a custom sheet metal intake. From a 5-4.5" velocity stack to a 3.5-3" piping. Not kidding you will see a gain from 10-20whp with this. My fried Kiet (J35a8 swapped into a 7th gen coupe proved it to me with his car, those dbw engines don't even have a tuning solution either so thats saying something). The Filter, id recommend a HKS Mushroom or a AEM/K&N Dryflow filter.
The Throttle Body- This is uncontested. The Blox 76mm TB is by far the way to go. You will need an adapter (will have to be custom) to mount it. My friend Jake, JCharged on V6P, makes them. Shoot him an inbox and hell be more then able to help you out.
The Intake Manifold - For the J swapped cars, hood clearance is always a problem. Easy solution, the J37 manifold from a 09 TL SH-AWD. They flow the best out of any mainfold, look the best, and have 0 clearance issues. Don't bother looking for a used one, just buy it new from Acura for about $220. 1hondaparts.com is the cheapest place to buy honda/acura parts (vandergriff honda in texas). Now for the cover plate you have two options. A honda one off the 08 accord v6, or the 09 TL SH-AWD (about $100 more then the honda one). You will also need custom bolts made to bolt it to the motor, (Give me a little bit for the exact specs I have to find them) (I got mine from Bolt Depot for something like $15 shipped). If you still want to use the J32a2 or J35a3/4 manifold to flow like the J37 one, you will need to port it, switch to 2002 acura MDX Velocity stacks. Also P2R makes all the gaskets for the throttle body and intake manifold, don't forget to pick those up.
My Recommendation: AEM Dryflow Filter, Custom Sheet metal Intake, Blox 76mm TB, Custom adapter plate that also acts as spacer, J37 intake manifold, Honda cover plate, every P2R gaskets.
Ok for the head you only have a few options available at this time.
Complete Stock Head - The Best stock Head is from the J35a3 or the J32a2. The J32a2 has the best cams. The J35a3 has the best flowing ones, 35mm valves (10% lighter then the 36mm ones and flow better. Believe it or not the 36mm valves were for emissions not for performance. Why do you think all the other J series motors use 35mm valves?) I would go with J35a3 heads in a heartbeat. Just throw the J32a2 cams in it and your good to go.
Cams - I will start with this because this is what everyone is interested in. The most aggressive cams are the Manual J32a2 cams. Ive heard back and forth between people claiming the J32a2 auto cams are the same exact but my friend Don from RPM System say the manual cams are the best to go with for an oem cam. I will take his word over anyone else's. For aftermarket cams you have three options. 1. Bisimoto. 2. Gude 3. Custom. If it was me, I would buy the Gude cams. They're cheaper then the Bisimoto ones and honestly, Bisimoto is a person I would try to stay away from. He has been under a lot of heat recently and lost his way. He's been getting called out by many angry customers and his customer service is second to none in the worst possible way. I'm not going to get into a whole essay about how Bisi is a pos in this thread. Also, I do not trust any man who wears tight jeans, skin tight shirts, and big ugly designer sunglasses to car shows. (my poor attempt at comedy).
The Valvetrain - Stay away from Bisi once again. I use his valve train and I'm not impressed. I should have went with KMS. KMS buys the valve train from supertech, rebadges them and sells them for amazing cheap. KMS sells a whole J series kit complete with valves, springs, retainers, block guard, ect all for $500. KMS makes great stuff and I will be using they're products from now on at any chance I have.
Porting - There are many different ways you can go about this. I would take the head to a machine shop (find one that does a lot of supras
) and have them raceport it.
Gaskets: Go with a cometic Head gasket if you have the chance. The thickness depends on what your trying to build. Obviously go with a thin one for an all motor setup for that compression.
My Recommendation. J35a3 Heads, Full Raceport, Gude Cams, KMS Valvetrain, and a Cometic Head Gasket.
-Bottom Half
Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.
Lets start with stock bottom ends.
For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.
J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well
A nice 10:5:1 compression ratio for an all motor build is always a good thing. Also leaving you a little breathing room for some room for boost or spray later on.
J35a3 - *For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up.* Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. *This is why this is theory* The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.
J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.
My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.
Custom Stroker Builds:
The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.
The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray.[/TD]
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You won't see a lot of power out of a DBW J series. MAYBE high 400s. A DBC J series have seen 720whp on pump gas with a 67 trim on a daily driver tune.
This is the project car. A 1998 Accord, kinda crazy huh? I like to be different. Thats a low compression J36 set up for boost. I am expecting about 850whp at 20psi on stock sleeves and e85. I beat the record for an all motor native J series car with it the first day with it ever at the track. 12.9 at 113.
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[TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5FF"]I wrote this all motor post for a different forum. Just copy and pasting it here. Almost everything here should be utilized for your turbo build. I would just change the motor. I would go out and buy a J35a3 from a 01-02 MDX. You will thank me later from the steel sleeves, to the best flowing heads. :tongue: This is just for a average builder on a budget. For you we could get over 1000whp with sleeves, aftermarket rods and pistons.
(*WARNING* Due to a lack of an aftermarket, most of the f/i, all motor builds will be decently similar)
Just going to write a guide real quick off the top of my head to get the ball rolling.
Lets Break down the Motor into certain Parts. Theres always the top half and bottom half of the motor to go by but i want to get more specific. There are so many different variations that its almost impossible for me to list everything. I'm just going to post the best I can for average swapped car. If you'll be looking for serious power, just ask.
ALL MOTOR
-Top Half
Lets go from the intake filter to the valves.
The intake- Honestly, the intake is not a serious power gaining platform unless your build is serious. I'd recommend a stock air box with a K&N filter for most people. But if you have a J32a2, J35a3/4 you definitely want to gain some power via the intake your going to need a custom sheet metal intake. From a 5-4.5" velocity stack to a 3.5-3" piping. Not kidding you will see a gain from 10-20whp with this. My fried Kiet (J35a8 swapped into a 7th gen coupe proved it to me with his car, those dbw engines don't even have a tuning solution either so thats saying something). The Filter, id recommend a HKS Mushroom or a AEM/K&N Dryflow filter.
The Throttle Body- This is uncontested. The Blox 76mm TB is by far the way to go. You will need an adapter (will have to be custom) to mount it. My friend Jake, JCharged on V6P, makes them. Shoot him an inbox and hell be more then able to help you out.
The Intake Manifold - For the J swapped cars, hood clearance is always a problem. Easy solution, the J37 manifold from a 09 TL SH-AWD. They flow the best out of any mainfold, look the best, and have 0 clearance issues. Don't bother looking for a used one, just buy it new from Acura for about $220. 1hondaparts.com is the cheapest place to buy honda/acura parts (vandergriff honda in texas). Now for the cover plate you have two options. A honda one off the 08 accord v6, or the 09 TL SH-AWD (about $100 more then the honda one). You will also need custom bolts made to bolt it to the motor, (Give me a little bit for the exact specs I have to find them) (I got mine from Bolt Depot for something like $15 shipped). If you still want to use the J32a2 or J35a3/4 manifold to flow like the J37 one, you will need to port it, switch to 2002 acura MDX Velocity stacks. Also P2R makes all the gaskets for the throttle body and intake manifold, don't forget to pick those up.
My Recommendation: AEM Dryflow Filter, Custom Sheet metal Intake, Blox 76mm TB, Custom adapter plate that also acts as spacer, J37 intake manifold, Honda cover plate, every P2R gaskets.
The Head, I will break this down to smaller sections
Ok for the head you only have a few options available at this time.
Complete Stock Head - The Best stock Head is from the J35a3 or the J32a2. The J32a2 has the best cams. The J35a3 has the best flowing ones, 35mm valves (10% lighter then the 36mm ones and flow better. Believe it or not the 36mm valves were for emissions not for performance. Why do you think all the other J series motors use 35mm valves?) I would go with J35a3 heads in a heartbeat. Just throw the J32a2 cams in it and your good to go.
Cams - I will start with this because this is what everyone is interested in. The most aggressive cams are the Manual J32a2 cams. Ive heard back and forth between people claiming the J32a2 auto cams are the same exact but my friend Don from RPM System say the manual cams are the best to go with for an oem cam. I will take his word over anyone else's. For aftermarket cams you have three options. 1. Bisimoto. 2. Gude 3. Custom. If it was me, I would buy the Gude cams. They're cheaper then the Bisimoto ones and honestly, Bisimoto is a person I would try to stay away from. He has been under a lot of heat recently and lost his way. He's been getting called out by many angry customers and his customer service is second to none in the worst possible way. I'm not going to get into a whole essay about how Bisi is a pos in this thread. Also, I do not trust any man who wears tight jeans, skin tight shirts, and big ugly designer sunglasses to car shows. (my poor attempt at comedy).
The Valvetrain - Stay away from Bisi once again. I use his valve train and I'm not impressed. I should have went with KMS. KMS buys the valve train from supertech, rebadges them and sells them for amazing cheap. KMS sells a whole J series kit complete with valves, springs, retainers, block guard, ect all for $500. KMS makes great stuff and I will be using they're products from now on at any chance I have.
Porting - There are many different ways you can go about this. I would take the head to a machine shop (find one that does a lot of supras
Gaskets: Go with a cometic Head gasket if you have the chance. The thickness depends on what your trying to build. Obviously go with a thin one for an all motor setup for that compression.
My Recommendation. J35a3 Heads, Full Raceport, Gude Cams, KMS Valvetrain, and a Cometic Head Gasket.
-Bottom Half
Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.
Lets start with stock bottom ends.
For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.
J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well
J35a3 - *For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up.* Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. *This is why this is theory* The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.
J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.
My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.
Custom Stroker Builds:
The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.
The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray.[/TD]
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You won't see a lot of power out of a DBW J series. MAYBE high 400s. A DBC J series have seen 720whp on pump gas with a 67 trim on a daily driver tune.
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