my diy splitter

[CL65 Captain]

Someone PM'ed me and asked about my mounting brackets so I took some pics when I swapped out my short for long (track) splitter.

I screw the front into the Shine Type 1 lip, then bolt to the L brackets in the middle. The rear bolts together with the rear tray (goes under the battery tray to the rear).

It's hard to get pics of the front and rear trays together, maybe when I get the car up on a lift.

 

[illwillem]

That is perfect,

thanks for snapping the pics!

 

[Chu_Viet]

i like it captain... more pictures?? looks real good with 02 wheels.

 

[illwillem]

So I was under my car last night poking around and I have a few questions, captain, if you don't mind.

You say your bolting the front of the spoiler to the front lip mounting points, and indeed I see the holes in your splitter for doing just that, but im curious because the bottom of the lip over hangs down 2 inches past the mounting points where it bolts onto the lower bumper. Are you bolting onto the lower bumper mounting point or are you bolting the under tray to the lower part of the lip?

 

[CL65 Captain]

So I was under my car last night poking around and I have a few questions, captain, if you don't mind.

You say your bolting the front of the spoiler to the front lip mounting points, and indeed I see the holes in your splitter for doing just that, but im curious because the bottom of the lip over hangs down 2 inches past the mounting points where it bolts onto the lower bumper. Are you bolting onto the lower bumper mounting point or are you bolting the under tray to the lower part of the lip?

Bolting to the lip. Drilled holes in the fiberglass lip (Shine Type 1) and put clips in there that the screws go into as I knew that I would be screwing and unscrewing every time I changed from track to street splitters and didn't want to chew up the fiberglass.

I looked at using really long bolts and going through the splitter, through the lip into the OEM mounting holes but that looked like alot more work trying to line them up perfectly, etc.

Mounting to the lip and the L brackets in the middle seem to provide plenty of security. I have lots of on track photos and that splitter isn't bowing down at all due to air pressure at 120 +/- mph.

Link with all the pics, you can see even going down the straight at 120 mph there was no downward deflection --- http://photomotiononline.com/orderprints.php?mode=step3&eventId=105&carKeyword=8778

 

[illwillem]

Ah-ha. I see now. since ive got the shine 2 lip so i was little curious. Ive ordered the shine 1 lip but Ive got a track day lined up before it gets here so im gunna make due with this for now. Ive sketched up exactly what you were talking about with the long bolts attaching to the lower bumper mounting points. Im cutting hollow dowel sleeves as a guide to keep even spacing when i snug down the bolts. My lip, currently, is so thin from scraping that i think if I just tried to mount to the lower lip now it'd just tear off.

 

[asylum]

I have been inspired by this post and made one. I haven't found teh same material so went for this :

https://shop.angst-pfister.com/isho...e/product/node/14751/product/01.3010.11.xhtml

Very light and rigid enough. Perhaps not as much as alumilite but far enough I think.

Install it on my Shine GT lip which is not in good shape. But considering the Murphy law, I know that if a buy a new lip, I will detroy it on my first trackday. The Shine GT is perhaps not the best base because of the central front edge being higher, but the bottom of it is flat. So not a big deal.


The front plate. With some missed holes. Not easy :biggrin: Should have gone with polycarbonate...

Rear plate. I could have gone wider.

15 screws to fix the front plate on the lip and 2 on the battery tray bars. I still have the opportunity to put some more at the rear if I detect some flex.

Paint.

Done !

 

[illwillem]

Very cool. I ended up doing mine in two pieces So I could fit in inside the car on the way to the track. You're splitter looks stubby enough to not hit every single little ramp, though you may get some more grip by going a little bigger with it. (only if you've got a wing, itll over steer without one)


I removed the stock plastic ducting mounted some bolts onto the holes on the bottom of the radiator support and made 2 90deg angle aliminum brackets that bolt to the actual metal threaded bumper beam in the radiator opening. you can see the bolts an their approximate locations here:

\
If you want you can add som 1" angle aluminum to the battery tray to keep air from welling behind the tires, just like the type R.

Just like capt said, no deflections at high speed.

 

[Silver Surfer]

Maybe just use this to based your final splitter design?

SS

 

[MvM]

Do you actually feel the difference with the splitter mounted on your car vs. no splitter at all?

I have the full front undertray from Downforce and battery undercover combined with the VIS hood with duct plus the Dali Racing duct to force the radiator airflow upwards and I can feel the difference at high speeds.

Am just wondering if adding a (small) front splitter (mainly for street use) would make some additional difference.

 

[illwillem]

Ive never run mine on the street and I only have a huge one so I wouldn't really be able to speak to that. Are you hoping to see cooler running temp, better mpg?

I dont think you'll really be able to drive hard enough on the streets to tell the difference. I will say that on the track with the flat undertray, splitter, diffuser and wing the car feels MUCH more planted- strangely enough after I added my garage fabbed cowl plate the wing really came alive.

 

[silver2002]

I'd like to hear the pro's and con's of having brake ducts in the lip [in lieu of duct hose inlets routed near engine / AC radiator ] - thanks