intercooled 2.3 L supercharger/Comptech donor manifold

Here are some shots of the motor in the car:

You can see in the foreground of the first shot the Accusump valve. It feeds a 3 qt. in the right fender!
 

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...the IC heat exchanger finally got here, and the custom tank...the tank sits where the spare tire used to be and is shaped to help push the air out of my hood. There is a flange on the top edge to bolt a deflector on to help seal against the bottom of the hood.

(note brake rotor for scale:rolleyes: )
 

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Sorry for the dumb question, but this is an air/water intercooler? I am a little confused. Are you running a vented hood for this?
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but this is an air/water intercooler? I am a little confused. Are you running a vented hood for this?

Yes this is an air/water heat exchanger that will be in front of my radiator.

Yes I have a vented hood.

What is the confusion...???
 
...the IC heat exchanger finally got here, and the custom tank...the tank sits where the spare tire used to be and is shaped to help push the air out of my hood. There is a flange on the top edge to bolt a deflector on to help seal against the bottom of the hood.

(note brake rotor for scale:rolleyes: )

Nice work. Glad to see you have your motor installed I was wondering how tight it would be with the extra tensioner. My set up has two metal lines that I need to re-route I thing smog lines. The tank looks awesome.
 
Ken can you and Dave tell us how your setups differ? looks like you guys are using the same blower... right?
 
Nice work. Glad to see you have your motor installed I was wondering how tight it would be with the extra tensioner. My set up has two metal lines that I need to re-route I thing smog lines. The tank looks awesome.

Ken, it would not fit with out the idler. The belt would run through the motor mount. The double bearing idler I am making will have flanges on it, to help the alignment of the belt.

Are you still using the 2 idler pulleys on the CT plate? I am not sure what the upside to the second 'grooved' pulley is? The smooth pulley increases wrap on the crank pulley, I am not clear if I need the second 'grooved' now I have the idlers pulley by the blower. I can shorten the belt quite a bit and it will be easier to thread the belt, not needing to do that extra loop...hmmm
 
Ken can you and Dave tell us how your setups differ? looks like you guys are using the same blower... right?

We are both using a 2.3L Whipple blower, Ken has the current version which should be a bit more efficient. Mine is the same as what his last one was set up with, the same basic blower Shad has on Kip's car.

Ken's set up is closer to stock looking(standard Comptech) and will fit under the engine cover. It will be interesting to see how his dynos out. I have maintained the Comptech plenum size, and added the IC core on top of it. This effectively straightens and lengthens the intake runners so the pressurized charge will flow directly into the heads, at least that is the theory. I have tried to smooth out as many places as possible in hopes of creating as little turbulence in the manifold as possible with the end goal of creating better high RPM breathing and maximizing the torque all the way to 8500 RPM. I chose a thinner IC core to minimize the pressure drop across the core too, sense my plan is to run 10-12 lb. boost. I have built the water lines with 2 times the water passages to increase the rate of water flow through scavenge as much heat as possible with a smaller core. Current heat soaked IT are 196 F. at 86 F. ambient temp. So that is a 111 F. delta. My goal is to keep them below 40 F. delta so I have quite a challenge in front of me.

I think Ken's design will make more torque at lower RPM and I am not sure how it will work at higher RPM when air velocities get higher. It will be very cool to see! Ken's IC is off the shelf, which is very cool. It is thicker, so there will be more pressure drop across it, but with the 16-18 lb he has been running, what is a lb. here or there:rolleyes:
 
Ken, it would not fit with out the idler. The belt would run through the motor mount. The double bearing idler I am making will have flanges on it, to help the alignment of the belt.

Are you still using the 2 idler pulleys on the CT plate? I am not sure what the upside to the second 'grooved' pulley is? The smooth pulley increases wrap on the crank pulley, I am not clear if I need the second 'grooved' now I have the idlers pulley by the blower. I can shorten the belt quite a bit and it will be easier to thread the belt, not needing to do that extra loop...hmmm

Yes I still have all the Comptech pulley locations. I just increased the size from 5 grooves to 8 grooves. My top pulley is only about 3" in diameter and as I rev it up you can see it trying to lift up off the pulley. I plan on having a new one made soon and it will have much taller walls. I also have an aluminum plate that I purchased from Whipple that is sleeved to go over the blower snout and clamp down. That will hold my new idler. I just started looking at it last night so maybe over the weekend I will get a chance to work on it.

I like you idea about flanges on the idler. If you put them on all the pulleys we only have slippage. That I could live with.
 
NO I consulted with an engine builder then I had worded with a custom intake manufacture that did all the welding. I also worked with Fluidyne and Whipple to pick there brains. Overall the space under the blower has more than doubled. This gives very large area to store the compressed air.
My 1st goal was to be able to store my targa top in the engine compartment.
Second was to keep the stock appearance.
Third was horse power.
 
Yes I still have all the Comptech pulley locations. I just increased the size from 5 grooves to 8 grooves. My top pulley is only about 3" in diameter and as I rev it up you can see it trying to lift up off the pulley. I plan on having a new one made soon and it will have much taller walls. I also have an aluminum plate that I purchased from Whipple that is sleeved to go over the blower snout and clamp down. That will hold my new idler. I just started looking at it last night so maybe over the weekend I will get a chance to work on it.

I like you idea about flanges on the idler. If you put them on all the pulleys we only have slippage. That I could live with.

I bolted flanges on my blower pulley, that's why there are all those button head screws on the pulley! I used some 1/8" plate and cut out big washers, drilled/tapped the pulley and drilled the washers. Bolted it all together spun it on the lathe to make everything round again.

This was all about being lazy but it worked fine!

Bearings should be in tomorrow for the idler, I will post pics when it's back on.

Joe Downs had mentioned Whipple recommended against clamping on the OD of the snout for fear of loading the bearings as they expand from heat. I chose to make all my mounts off the CT plate to avoid that issue.
 
Are you guys using tools like a flowbench to measure/test/equalize the flow to each cylinder thru the intake systems that you are fabricating?

bja

Nope, best guess engineering with motor builder suggestions. Plan is to use dyno to prove out concepts.

Pretty old school...:rolleyes:
 
I bolted flanges on my blower pulley, that's why there are all those button head screws on the pulley! I used some 1/8" plate and cut out big washers, drilled/tapped the pulley and drilled the washers. Bolted it all together spun it on the lathe to make everything round again.

This was all about being lazy but it worked fine!

Bearings should be in tomorrow for the idler, I will post pics when it's back on.

Joe Downs had mentioned Whipple recommended against clamping on the OD of the snout for fear of loading the bearings as they expand from heat. I chose to make all my mounts off the CT plate to avoid that issue.

Yes that is correct however when combined with anchoring to the Comptech plate you transfer the load the the plate and only use the whipple as a guide or secondary support. I forgot to add that part.
Thanks
 
Hey guys,

I get a tear in my eye when I look at these two setups and realize how far we have come.:wink:

One of the things we have not talked about on Ken's car is how hard is it to turn the larger 2.3L input shaft with the 3 inch pulley. I am turning the 1.6L Whipple with a 2.9 inch pulley and have some belt lift if the tension is not right. The amount of torque and belt friction needed to turn the larger lobes of the 2.3 Whipple is going to be significantly higher.

The good news is the belt lift shows itself mostly when you rev the motor out of gear. The RPMs come up so fast that the belt can't push/pull the pulley fast enough and you get some lift. This does not happen in gear because the RPM increase, although fast, is slower and smoother.

Joe
 
I just figured it out!!!! The Comptech Supercharger kit tensions the wrong side of the belt! This set up has a spring loaded tensioner on the tensioned/pulling side of the belt. As the motor RPM increases, if the resistance to turning of the blower pulley is higher than the spring tension of the tensioner, the tensioner compresses and loosens the belt!

I have a Whipple set up from a Chevy I scavenged my blower off of, and it tensions the slack side of the belt, going from the crank up to the blower.

Check this out:
http://www.pfaffengines.com/850sc.shtml

Straight line from the blower pulley to the crank pulley, tensioner on the slack side!
 
No, sideways!

Duh:tongue:

If your going to have the motor in the BACK put it facing forward :smile:

Somebody's going to put an LSx motor in with a G50 Transaxle like the Ultima GTR :eek: it will be cheaper and kick all our butts.

Honda..............look at the NEW NSX :tongue:

gtr47.jpg
 
Hey guys,

I get a tear in my eye when I look at these two setups and realize how far we have come.:wink:

One of the things we have not talked about on Ken's car is how hard is it to turn the larger 2.3L input shaft with the 3 inch pulley. I am turning the 1.6L Whipple with a 2.9 inch pulley and have some belt lift if the tension is not right. The amount of torque and belt friction needed to turn the larger lobes of the 2.3 Whipple is going to be significantly higher.

The good news is the belt lift shows itself mostly when you rev the motor out of gear. The RPMs come up so fast that the belt can't push/pull the pulley fast enough and you get some lift. This does not happen in gear because the RPM increase, although fast, is slower and smoother.

Joe
Good news I took the car out for a test ride yesterday with out building a new pulley tensioner plate and had no or very little slippage. The belt looks good so far. I need to get a tunner on board now.
 
I just figured it out!!!! The Comptech Supercharger kit tensions the wrong side of the belt! This set up has a spring loaded tensioner on the tensioned/pulling side of the belt. As the motor RPM increases, if the resistance to turning of the blower pulley is higher than the spring tension of the tensioner, the tensioner compresses and loosens the belt!

I have a Whipple set up from a Chevy I scavenged my blower off of, and it tensions the slack side of the belt, going from the crank up to the blower.

Check this out:
http://www.pfaffengines.com/850sc.shtml

Straight line from the blower pulley to the crank pulley, tensioner on the slack side!

Any new updates on your project?

Bryan
 
Resurrecting a very old post, but this thing is finally running OK! I made questionable choice and put chrome rings in the motor when I put new pistons in it last fall, 4500 miles later they are seating! SO, now I can get some tuning done...

440.3 RWHP, 321 ft/lb. torque at 10.5 lb. of boost! Not bad for a 3.0L:biggrin:

Will post dyno graph tonight.

Still a little conservative with the A/F so there is more in it, 11.8 falling to 10.8 at 8000 RPM. Torque is pretty flat from 5K to 7K, falls off a bit above there so I am having a little belt slipping, which I am OK considering where I have been and how long this has taken. Current pulley should top out at 14 PSI, at least on paper, it holds flat from 6K up. The other cause would be a boost leak, so I will hunt around a bit. More soon:tongue:
 
Resurrecting a very old post, but this thing is finally running OK! I made questionable choice and put chrome rings in the motor when I put new pistons in it last fall, 4500 miles later they are seating! SO, now I can get some tuning done...

440.3 RWHP, 321 ft/lb. torque at 10.5 lb. of boost! Not bad for a 3.0L:biggrin:

Will post dyno graph tonight.

Still a little conservative with the A/F so there is more in it, 11.8 falling to 10.8 at 8000 RPM. Torque is pretty flat from 5K to 7K, falls off a bit above there so I am having a little belt slipping, which I am OK considering where I have been and how long this has taken. Current pulley should top out at 14 PSI, at least on paper, it holds flat from 6K up. The other cause would be a boost leak, so I will hunt around a bit. More soon:tongue:

Nice #s Dave. I got 435rwhp and about 300 ft/lb torque on 91 pump crap. Sure you have seen my post here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113144

Waiting to see your dyno graphs as well.

Jeff
 
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