Accidents can happen, that's why I use hood pins and keep a fresh supply of condoms next to my bed.
hood pins on aftermarket type R hood. anyone using them?
- Thread starter NSXkkk
- Start date
Lol
I still wonder what magic the OEM NSX-R hood has that can't and/or hasn't been duplicated on an aftermarket hood that makes it okay to not use hood pins. "They" say it's because the OEM NSX-R hood is made better but cannot substantiate in what way vs aftermarket hoods.
Honda is not the only people capable of making a safe hood..............
J
Honda is not the only people capable of making a safe hood..............
J
James, give it up, I feel your pain in not getting straight answers to specific questions.
Crappy or not, common sense physics will agree that there will be some serious pressure especially under a non vented hood with battery undertray. Even with a vented hood - and this was observed on one of the high end imported Type R aftermarket hoods, the hood was bowing about 1" on each side above the fenders at the track at about 100+. Not too long ago I asked on Prime the local vendors of after market hoods if they had resolved this issue and none responded. A pin does NOT address the issue of the flex.
I suspect that this bowing is most likely due to the fact that an air duct was not present at the time - which should further decrease the flex/bow by directing the air out through a vent, but perhaps also because the structural braces on the underside "may" not be as strong as the OEM? I am guessing in here. The said hood did not have pins.
As an fyi, I do have the DF battery undertray with an OEM hood. I have not noticed any flex or bowing of the hood at the track, but I did remove the rubber seal across the cowl just to make sure it had some outlet and to help with the temps. I am frankly at a cross road, either to go with vented hood to allow for more cooling, or remove the DF battery undertray.
YMMV.
Crappy or not, common sense physics will agree that there will be some serious pressure especially under a non vented hood with battery undertray. Even with a vented hood - and this was observed on one of the high end imported Type R aftermarket hoods, the hood was bowing about 1" on each side above the fenders at the track at about 100+. Not too long ago I asked on Prime the local vendors of after market hoods if they had resolved this issue and none responded. A pin does NOT address the issue of the flex.
I suspect that this bowing is most likely due to the fact that an air duct was not present at the time - which should further decrease the flex/bow by directing the air out through a vent, but perhaps also because the structural braces on the underside "may" not be as strong as the OEM? I am guessing in here. The said hood did not have pins.
As an fyi, I do have the DF battery undertray with an OEM hood. I have not noticed any flex or bowing of the hood at the track, but I did remove the rubber seal across the cowl just to make sure it had some outlet and to help with the temps. I am frankly at a cross road, either to go with vented hood to allow for more cooling, or remove the DF battery undertray.
YMMV.
Last edited:
One inch?! 
I've driven more different cars with aftermarket hoods than I can remember (many of which were NSXs with NSX-R type hoods) -all of which were tracked at well over 130mph. Despite driving cars with hoods from 'cheap' companies, I have never seen a hood flex a full inch. I drive many race cars, time attack cars, HPDE cars, Club and Regional cars for a living (as a racecar driver and professional driving instructor). I've seen more combinations than you can imagine. Yes accidents do happen, but hood failures is not a common occurrence.
NSX-R type vented hoods do a good job (even without proper ducting) with evacuating air and high pressure below your hood at speeds over 150mph. Again, failures is dependant on the mounting design of the stock factory latch that must attach to the composite hood. Respectable companies tend to do a better job at this than cheaper companies. Theirs no reason a company like Downforce cannot produce a product equivalent or superior in design, durability, and strength of the stock latch as the OEM type R. I'm not claiming that respectable companies like Downforce are just as good if not better, but just answering the question that yes hoods can be made by companies like DF with a latch just as safe as OEM, and after personally testing DFs products, I feel safe saying that they make good products.
Using the battery under tray WITH a non-vented (or stock) hood is not a good idea. The stock radiator must vent around the battery below the car, using the under tray blocks the majority of this space for the radiator to vent the heat (when in use with a stock or non vented hood). I would not recommend having both the battery undertray and the stock/non vented hood. If you do not go to a vented hood, I would then recommend removing your battery undertray.
EDIT: In regards to removing your weather stripping at the base of the windshield. The base of your windshield is a high-pressure zone, this is why many muscle cars, drag cars, and Grand Am Rolex GT cars have their air intakes at the base of the front windshield. So by removing your weather stripping (although its a small gap) it is not letting the air 'evacuate' at the base of the windshield, their is a small possibility that by removing that weather stripping, you are increasing the pressure under your hood making the situation worse. The only low pressure zone in that area would be the last 4-6" (varying by windshield design) on either side of the base of the windshield. So if you really wanted to, removing 4-6" of the weather stripping at the ends of the window and keeping the weather stripping in the middle 'might' help somewhat, but better than having the whole thing removed. Better yet, just remove the battery undertray or get a vented hood.
0.02
I've driven more different cars with aftermarket hoods than I can remember (many of which were NSXs with NSX-R type hoods) -all of which were tracked at well over 130mph. Despite driving cars with hoods from 'cheap' companies, I have never seen a hood flex a full inch. I drive many race cars, time attack cars, HPDE cars, Club and Regional cars for a living (as a racecar driver and professional driving instructor). I've seen more combinations than you can imagine. Yes accidents do happen, but hood failures is not a common occurrence.
NSX-R type vented hoods do a good job (even without proper ducting) with evacuating air and high pressure below your hood at speeds over 150mph. Again, failures is dependant on the mounting design of the stock factory latch that must attach to the composite hood. Respectable companies tend to do a better job at this than cheaper companies. Theirs no reason a company like Downforce cannot produce a product equivalent or superior in design, durability, and strength of the stock latch as the OEM type R. I'm not claiming that respectable companies like Downforce are just as good if not better, but just answering the question that yes hoods can be made by companies like DF with a latch just as safe as OEM, and after personally testing DFs products, I feel safe saying that they make good products.
Using the battery under tray WITH a non-vented (or stock) hood is not a good idea. The stock radiator must vent around the battery below the car, using the under tray blocks the majority of this space for the radiator to vent the heat (when in use with a stock or non vented hood). I would not recommend having both the battery undertray and the stock/non vented hood. If you do not go to a vented hood, I would then recommend removing your battery undertray.
EDIT: In regards to removing your weather stripping at the base of the windshield. The base of your windshield is a high-pressure zone, this is why many muscle cars, drag cars, and Grand Am Rolex GT cars have their air intakes at the base of the front windshield. So by removing your weather stripping (although its a small gap) it is not letting the air 'evacuate' at the base of the windshield, their is a small possibility that by removing that weather stripping, you are increasing the pressure under your hood making the situation worse. The only low pressure zone in that area would be the last 4-6" (varying by windshield design) on either side of the base of the windshield. So if you really wanted to, removing 4-6" of the weather stripping at the ends of the window and keeping the weather stripping in the middle 'might' help somewhat, but better than having the whole thing removed. Better yet, just remove the battery undertray or get a vented hood.
0.02
Last edited:
1. What's the point of a duct, intended to direct air out of a vent, without a vent in place?
2. A hood will not flex an inch, perhaps a few mm, but even this is an extreme example, at 130mph+
3. Hood pins... if you're set either way, this thread won't change your position on them. They're a safety device, running them has only an aesthetic downside, which makes their installation an easy choice for me, perhaps you feel differently.
For those who don't use pins, I hope your hood never flies up while driving, if you inspect the hood latch mechanism regularly, to ensure its safely fastened to the underside of the hood, use ducting, to reduce stress on the hood, and purchase a hood from a reputable vendor, you probably won't run into any issues. If you want to be sure you won't run into any issues, run hood pins.
2. A hood will not flex an inch, perhaps a few mm, but even this is an extreme example, at 130mph+
3. Hood pins... if you're set either way, this thread won't change your position on them. They're a safety device, running them has only an aesthetic downside, which makes their installation an easy choice for me, perhaps you feel differently.
For those who don't use pins, I hope your hood never flies up while driving, if you inspect the hood latch mechanism regularly, to ensure its safely fastened to the underside of the hood, use ducting, to reduce stress on the hood, and purchase a hood from a reputable vendor, you probably won't run into any issues. If you want to be sure you won't run into any issues, run hood pins.
I agree with everything you said. But you must read my previous posts to understand the long-term effects of drilling small holes for the rivits that hold the top of the hood pin down (not really a stress point, but over time the small hole in a carbon/fiberglass weave will start to deteriorate). But this can be seen in a shorter period of time under extreme abuse and frequent opening/closing of the hood under racing conditions, but over time the small rivit holes will get larger and will eventually run into problems. This shouldn't be viewed as a deterrent, but something to know during a decision making process. Having been around these on multiple street, time attack, club, regional, and professional race cars, time eventually starts to open up those small rivit holes. You are drilling a small hole into a composite weave afterall.
0.02
I'll pass!
Last edited:
What hood do you have? (manufacturer)?
Edit: darn, i should have quoted your nice long little writeup.
Edit: darn, i should have quoted your nice long little writeup.
Downforce Version 2 full carbon fiber hood
Sorry, I meant HRant before he edited his long post. But yes DF makes good products.
My old S2000 has J'Racing cf hood. I drive is as fast like 270km/h and the hood pins wasn't needed anywhere.
I think I will not buy hood pins to my nsx either. Not needed.
I think I will not buy hood pins to my nsx either. Not needed.
I have the VIS Type-R hood on my car and at high speeds (above 130mph) you coud see it sometimes flex a little.
Since then I have added the Dali airduct to my car to force more of the air from the radiator through the aird-duct opening and since the movement at high speed is significantly less.
Actually, there is still a gap between the airduct and the opening in the hood that I still want to close someday.
92NSX and MvM, thank you for confirming what I have been stating and suspecting to be the case with other hoods as well. The aftermarket hoods DO FLEX, and apparently even with the air duct but less so as one would have expected. The pins DO NOT solve the flex issue, and I suspect over time if an air duct is not used with an open hood, the stress from the the on/off flex will further weaken both the latch and pin mounting/holes.
We now have identified three different manufacturers where flex has been confirmed. Stuntman, by process of elimination, you should now be able to figure the brand of the other hood :wink:
Edit: I must also clarify or note that adding a "working" front spoiler/lip will further accentuate or aggrevate the flex - which was the case in the aftermarket Type R hood at about 100+ to which I referred above.
We now have identified three different manufacturers where flex has been confirmed. Stuntman, by process of elimination, you should now be able to figure the brand of the other hood :wink:
Edit: I must also clarify or note that adding a "working" front spoiler/lip will further accentuate or aggrevate the flex - which was the case in the aftermarket Type R hood at about 100+ to which I referred above.
Last edited:
I've got a Procar CF and I haven't noticed it flex. Only times I get 100+ on the streets, it's so short of a burst that I forget to check for any flex. On the few track events I've taken the car to with the hood installed, I'm too focused on my driving to check. (In both instances, it's probably a good thing that I didn't look for a flexing hood:tongue
Hrant, maybe one of these days we can get together and check for flex at a future track day? I can see how that flex that you describe can cause fatigue in the area and eventually a failure.
J
I will drive 100mph or more EVERY time a drive the NSX on the highway. And at 100mph you will not notice any flex. Only time I did notice it was at speed well above 120-130 mph and that is a BIG difference in airpressure building up in front of the car.
If you only drive up to 100mph, I would not worry about it provided you use the original OEM latch and check the fitment regularly.
I believe that statement closes the thread ...
downforce, VIS, seibon are making the type R hood. anyone else manufacturing it?
who's the reputable vendor?
Carbon fiber or Fiber glass? which one holds paint better?
who's the reputable vendor?
Carbon fiber or Fiber glass? which one holds paint better?
This is probably the best aftermarket nsx-r hood:
http://www.route-ks.com/feature/drycarbon.html
Other vendors are downforce, procar, gt-rom, backyard special, tracey sport, I's impact
Great post mate, I agree!!!
Similar threads
