Honcho's Long Road to Imola Type-S Zero
- Thread starter Honcho
- Start date
Use the silica packet from the picture and leave under the trunk mat to control moisture.:biggrin:
Well, I AM going pretty extreme on this car. Have to admit, I'm wavering on the A/C delete though... Any idea how much the whole system weighs?
I particularly liked the sea shell right next to it. This car was living the salt life at some point LOL.
Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 07
Special delivery today. About two yards of genuine Toray Ultrasuede HP in Orange 8223.
Getting closer to this:
Special delivery today. About two yards of genuine Toray Ultrasuede HP in Orange 8223.
Getting closer to this:
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I will be ordering the seats from Adnan, but this will be a bit more DIY. Should save about $2,000 off of the price of Recaro-trimmed seats. Recaro charges a huge amount to custom re-trim the cushions. I have an upholsterer here in Denver who will do the seats and door cards for much less.
- Joined
- 9 October 2012
- Messages
- 1,954
Not questioning your judgement, just curious. Figured it must be a cost issue. Love type-s seats.
[MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION], how did those non oem fender liners clips work out for you? I’ve used several different generic ones with very little success rates. They’re either off a bit in diameter or they do not clip in securely enough. Would love to find some some that do not cost 3 bucks a piece.
They clip just as strong as OEM. The ones for the cowl even have the factory rough texture on the heads. I used these on my last NSX in the fender liners and they worked perfectly.
Aftermarket Wire Removal 04
Finally got all of the audio wiring out of the trunk and engine bay. The power wire alone probably weighed at least a pound.
The amp/speaker wires were run through a 25 mm hole in the trunk (looks factory), which had either some kind of rubber goo sealant, or the electric tape melted from the engine heat.
And then along the rear strut brace and over the alternator.
Finally ended at the rear firewall into a grommet under the fuel pump resistor. I left a bit of a tail to hold the wires in place for now, as I will have to remove the interior to get to the rest of the wires. Job for another day.
Very frustrated to see the state of the undercarriage. Such a sloppy paint job and now I will have to spend ages cleaning the parts.
Finally got all of the audio wiring out of the trunk and engine bay. The power wire alone probably weighed at least a pound.
The amp/speaker wires were run through a 25 mm hole in the trunk (looks factory), which had either some kind of rubber goo sealant, or the electric tape melted from the engine heat.
And then along the rear strut brace and over the alternator.
Finally ended at the rear firewall into a grommet under the fuel pump resistor. I left a bit of a tail to hold the wires in place for now, as I will have to remove the interior to get to the rest of the wires. Job for another day.
Very frustrated to see the state of the undercarriage. Such a sloppy paint job and now I will have to spend ages cleaning the parts.
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Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 08
Finally declared victory on the cruise control throttle cable.
After struggling and fighting for days to find a way to wiggle it off, I finally channeled my inner [MENTION=3821]DocL[/MENTION] and cut it.
I was left with this.
I STILL could not wiggle the cable off the throttle pedal, even with all the tension released. So, I cut it from the inside too, leaving just the T-fitting in the pedal assembly. It's wedged in there so hard I doubt it will ever come loose. I made sure it did not interfere with the pedal movement in any way.
Finally declared victory on the cruise control throttle cable.
After struggling and fighting for days to find a way to wiggle it off, I finally channeled my inner [MENTION=3821]DocL[/MENTION] and cut it.
I was left with this.
I STILL could not wiggle the cable off the throttle pedal, even with all the tension released. So, I cut it from the inside too, leaving just the T-fitting in the pedal assembly. It's wedged in there so hard I doubt it will ever come loose. I made sure it did not interfere with the pedal movement in any way.
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How are you gonna tackle this?
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piran1 said:
Still thinking it through, but my initial thought is to soda blast the shift cable holder, since it worked so well on the battery holder. Repaint the fuel tank straps black. The A/C hard line is being removed with the A/C delete. Same with the AT shift cable- it eventually will be removed for the 6-speed upgrade. As for the floor pans, I'm thinking of just hitting them with a black rubberized undercoat. Not sure how I'm going to clean and prep them for paint though...
Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 09
Time to remove the antenna. Bottom grommet- it just pulls out.
[IMGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX7kF-n31VZ4ZGFfVMbAhqsrcInb7VD3H0GJ7SBmKleaZUSyLgq6c7G1j-jSpytuZ2HHBglZCda20Fa9Kb5LyyaryTVRWf5Muup10ciZ_yEXbCABowISDS5RrTCCLlqzC_2LgqMTdbCjfhsj_D0_uejoQ=w966-h1287-no?authuser=0[/IMG]
Antenna wire harness plug.
Antenna lead disconnected.
I discovered that the snap ring tool for the rear brake calipers is a perfect wrench for the antenna nut.
Antenna drain with the ancient, yellow vinyl tube.
The drain hole is 15 mm. Will require a grommet to prevent moisture in the trunk cavity.
Antenna is out. One step closer to S Zero.
Tidying up the antenna lead and harness plug.
[IMGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVq0NOjJnw8zygtbgeS1ChJqYWlQ9oXF5cvv1CsNN3EPIDb5MLJJY-oh3Tl-gOppayDY_g7PAvdD_sWxHXo9ukqWPGtOsJRccXkuRyvoB2h3y9UhaPlVrzu-RbFlNxT992pV0E4aSitzkySnSgFQ0cabg=w1278-h959-no?authuser=0[/IMG]
Also decided to tidy up what I believe are the CD-Changer and cell phone connectors- they were just hanging loose in the trunk cavity. Though, I suspect that it why the plugs are covered in foam. Still, I didn't want them flopping around during circuit driving.
Time to remove the antenna. Bottom grommet- it just pulls out.
[IMGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX7kF-n31VZ4ZGFfVMbAhqsrcInb7VD3H0GJ7SBmKleaZUSyLgq6c7G1j-jSpytuZ2HHBglZCda20Fa9Kb5LyyaryTVRWf5Muup10ciZ_yEXbCABowISDS5RrTCCLlqzC_2LgqMTdbCjfhsj_D0_uejoQ=w966-h1287-no?authuser=0[/IMG]
Antenna wire harness plug.
Antenna lead disconnected.
I discovered that the snap ring tool for the rear brake calipers is a perfect wrench for the antenna nut.
Antenna drain with the ancient, yellow vinyl tube.
The drain hole is 15 mm. Will require a grommet to prevent moisture in the trunk cavity.
Antenna is out. One step closer to S Zero.
Tidying up the antenna lead and harness plug.
[IMGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVq0NOjJnw8zygtbgeS1ChJqYWlQ9oXF5cvv1CsNN3EPIDb5MLJJY-oh3Tl-gOppayDY_g7PAvdD_sWxHXo9ukqWPGtOsJRccXkuRyvoB2h3y9UhaPlVrzu-RbFlNxT992pV0E4aSitzkySnSgFQ0cabg=w1278-h959-no?authuser=0[/IMG]
Also decided to tidy up what I believe are the CD-Changer and cell phone connectors- they were just hanging loose in the trunk cavity. Though, I suspect that it why the plugs are covered in foam. Still, I didn't want them flopping around during circuit driving.
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Body and Paint Work 09
As is the case on many NSX with aftermarket audio systems, the trunk carpet is pulled away from the rubber trunk seal on the driver side near the firewall. The carpet is fastened to the seal by way of a clear plastic hanger, similar to the ones used on the interior carpet pieces. The carpet is stapled to the plastic, and rather than remove the entire seal with the carpet attached to it (as is proper), the installer just ripped the carpet away from the plastic, tearing the staples out of the plastic. I will attempt a repair by carefully re-inserting the staples back into the holes and bending them back, but if I saw this after picking it up from the audio store, I would have made them buy a new trunk carpet. No excuse for that kind of damage other than laziness/rushing.
As is the case on many NSX with aftermarket audio systems, the trunk carpet is pulled away from the rubber trunk seal on the driver side near the firewall. The carpet is fastened to the seal by way of a clear plastic hanger, similar to the ones used on the interior carpet pieces. The carpet is stapled to the plastic, and rather than remove the entire seal with the carpet attached to it (as is proper), the installer just ripped the carpet away from the plastic, tearing the staples out of the plastic. I will attempt a repair by carefully re-inserting the staples back into the holes and bending them back, but if I saw this after picking it up from the audio store, I would have made them buy a new trunk carpet. No excuse for that kind of damage other than laziness/rushing.
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Did the S-Zero have an antenna fitted even if it didn't have the stereo option or did it have a blanking plug or no hole at all in the rear fender?
Coolant hoses, rad, etc. 01
Complete replacement of coolant hoses, radiator, etc. is scheduled for Stage 1 during this time next year when the car is disassembled for paint. However, I discovered during the health check that the SOS header tank is leaking, the thermostat is stuck open and now this. Someone lost the factory clamp and put on the jubilee style hose clamp. The hose is crushed too far, so I cannot re-use it when I replace with the OEM Honda header tank that is coming from Japan. I have to replace the entire lower return hose now, which is a problem because I was really hoping to avoid the coolant drain and refill process until next year. Now, I will have to remove the airbox and throttle body just to access the other end of the hose on the water jacket. This means draining the coolant at least to this level, which will be a messy job for certain. My plan is to use the old return hose as a drain by turning it down after disconnecting from the header tank. However, because the hose barb is higher than the thermostat on the water jacket, I'm sure blue coolant will still come pouring out all over the engine when I remove the thermo cover. This job is now a lot bigger. Also have to order a new thermostat. I remember reading somewhere that the cheap NAPA units are better than the Honda one because they do not use the rubber seal, which is prone to failure. Is this true?
Complete replacement of coolant hoses, radiator, etc. is scheduled for Stage 1 during this time next year when the car is disassembled for paint. However, I discovered during the health check that the SOS header tank is leaking, the thermostat is stuck open and now this. Someone lost the factory clamp and put on the jubilee style hose clamp. The hose is crushed too far, so I cannot re-use it when I replace with the OEM Honda header tank that is coming from Japan. I have to replace the entire lower return hose now, which is a problem because I was really hoping to avoid the coolant drain and refill process until next year. Now, I will have to remove the airbox and throttle body just to access the other end of the hose on the water jacket. This means draining the coolant at least to this level, which will be a messy job for certain. My plan is to use the old return hose as a drain by turning it down after disconnecting from the header tank. However, because the hose barb is higher than the thermostat on the water jacket, I'm sure blue coolant will still come pouring out all over the engine when I remove the thermo cover. This job is now a lot bigger. Also have to order a new thermostat. I remember reading somewhere that the cheap NAPA units are better than the Honda one because they do not use the rubber seal, which is prone to failure. Is this true?
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S-Zeros had a blank rear fender, so no need for a grommet. The NSX Shop has those special fenders available, but I'm not that crazy.
*edit* In fact, I don't believe the radio was available as an option on the S-Zero (unlike the NSX-R and Type-S). I think the only options were A/C and the airbag steering wheel. Kaz probably could confirm.
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It shows the antenna on JP's website so I guess it was an option...
https://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=26984&fig=B&fig1=1600
https://jp-carparts.com/honda/partlist.php?maker=honda&type=NSX&cartype=26984&fig=B&fig1=1600
You might be right- I recall a Best Motoring video where they were driving a S Zero with a radio. In any event however, if you did not get a radio in the car, you got a blanked out fender. I wonder if it was the same for the NSX-R?
Slow progress the last few weeks, as our basement project has been taking priority. Waiting on the new steering rack from NSX Rack Repair to put the front end back together and have to refinish the front brakes. Still, parts are continuing to come in, including something special:
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Wow I'm lazy
Brake Overhaul 01
Some more work done today. One of the major items for Stage 0 is overhauling the brakes. During the health check, I was quite scared to stop, as the brakes were essentially on/off with almost no modulation at all. I will perform my full service, which strips the calipers down to bare metal and repaint using the very good quality VHT products. I had great success last time and will do the same thing here, along with a full replacement of all rubber seals/boots and inspection/replacement of any damaged pistons. Today, the passenger side brake caliper was disassembled.
Bracket and rotor. I have a set of brand new rotors from my last NSX sitting on the shelf, but these rotors are in very good condition with very few miles. No "lip" at all on the edge, indicating minimal wear. I will re-use them, but will clean them up a bit.
Caliper and pads. Still have to drain the caliper of fluid before the blasting/grinding can begin. The OEM Honda pads have tons of material left on them, so I will re-use. The car will not be driven on the circuit until at least Stage 1 (late 2019), so no reason for more aggressive pads as the Honda ones are quite good.
1991 splash shield. I have the NSX-R/late model ventilated shields coming from Japan, but I am going to leave it for now. The new shields will go on when the suspension is out for the Stage 1 repaint.
Gravity draining the old brake fluid.
I am putting new stainless lines, as these old rubber ones are tired. You can see the typical damage to the body from using the oversized/stanced wheels. I will cover it in new undercoat.
26 years of caked rubber/dirt/etc. Going to have fun removing this.
Old brake fluid. Almost black in color- very bad. Will replace with my standard fill ATE Typ 200, which is a great DOT 4 fluid for all conditions including on the circuit.
Full extent of the damage to the A/C condenser cover. Again from using a wheel that is too large for the NSX. Yet more epoxy from another failed repair attempt. Why didn't he just replace this? So sad, but a new piece is coming from Japan...
Next up is the driver side, but more basement work to be done first. And, I have to get the snowblower out and tuned up, as we are expecting snow on Sunday.
Some more work done today. One of the major items for Stage 0 is overhauling the brakes. During the health check, I was quite scared to stop, as the brakes were essentially on/off with almost no modulation at all. I will perform my full service, which strips the calipers down to bare metal and repaint using the very good quality VHT products. I had great success last time and will do the same thing here, along with a full replacement of all rubber seals/boots and inspection/replacement of any damaged pistons. Today, the passenger side brake caliper was disassembled.
Bracket and rotor. I have a set of brand new rotors from my last NSX sitting on the shelf, but these rotors are in very good condition with very few miles. No "lip" at all on the edge, indicating minimal wear. I will re-use them, but will clean them up a bit.
Caliper and pads. Still have to drain the caliper of fluid before the blasting/grinding can begin. The OEM Honda pads have tons of material left on them, so I will re-use. The car will not be driven on the circuit until at least Stage 1 (late 2019), so no reason for more aggressive pads as the Honda ones are quite good.
1991 splash shield. I have the NSX-R/late model ventilated shields coming from Japan, but I am going to leave it for now. The new shields will go on when the suspension is out for the Stage 1 repaint.
Gravity draining the old brake fluid.
I am putting new stainless lines, as these old rubber ones are tired. You can see the typical damage to the body from using the oversized/stanced wheels. I will cover it in new undercoat.
26 years of caked rubber/dirt/etc. Going to have fun removing this.
Old brake fluid. Almost black in color- very bad. Will replace with my standard fill ATE Typ 200, which is a great DOT 4 fluid for all conditions including on the circuit.
Full extent of the damage to the A/C condenser cover. Again from using a wheel that is too large for the NSX. Yet more epoxy from another failed repair attempt. Why didn't he just replace this? So sad, but a new piece is coming from Japan...
Next up is the driver side, but more basement work to be done first. And, I have to get the snowblower out and tuned up, as we are expecting snow on Sunday.
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Brake Overhaul 02
Refinish work started. Trying to take advantage of the nice weather before the snow. Hitting the passenger front caliper with the grinder brush. Next will use the dremel and drill with brushes to get where I can't reach with the grinder. Then, thorough wash with brake cleaner and wipe down with microfiber and alcohol. Then primer.
Refinish work started. Trying to take advantage of the nice weather before the snow. Hitting the passenger front caliper with the grinder brush. Next will use the dremel and drill with brushes to get where I can't reach with the grinder. Then, thorough wash with brake cleaner and wipe down with microfiber and alcohol. Then primer.
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Which clips did you use for the cowl? I'm missing all but 1, strange I didn't notice it until this thread.(3rd time going through it)
