Colored 02+ NSX Headlights... what do you think??
- Thread starter UnhuZ
- Start date
Looks AMAZING Mike !!!!!! WOW WOW WOW !!!
As requested here are some better pic's. (Less glare)
Man I love that tan interior. Can't wait to see your car at NSXPO
She will be there :smile: .Man I love that tan interior. Can't wait to see your car at NSXPO
After seeing the pic's i bet you can't wait untill yours are finished next week :tongue: .
If it looks anything as good as yours it will be worth the wait. Blue will rule the NSXPO.
well I have never been one to BS so I will say it like I see it. I like this because I think it looks different and unique... but I am still trying to get used to it. My gut feeling is perhaps it would have looked best if the whole housing was painted. I did a quick paint with my fine skills to get an idea. Still, I think you did a great job and it looks really good.
Stop vandalizing my car! :biggrin:
I considered it but decided to keep the OEM style paint like from the NSX-R (white). I am very happy with them :smile: .
Thanks
I considered it but decided to keep the OEM style paint like from the NSX-R (white). I am very happy with them :smile: .
Thanks
Uh oh the old man using his crayon again.
Someone help us..LOL
Nice new avatar Comtec! Hope my car is ready tomorrow I'm a little tempted to have the whole housing painted so that yours is unique ,but I don't know how far they got on Friday so we'll see.
Someone help us..LOLNice new avatar Comtec! Hope my car is ready tomorrow I'm a little tempted to have the whole housing painted so that yours is unique ,but I don't know how far they got on Friday so we'll see.
Thanks Man,
Just realize that if the whole housing is painted then the signals and the parking lights will be about half as bright. They are not bright bulbs to begin with so they rely on the reflection. Also the parking lights will look very blue and the signals will take a green look.
Dude, my car around here is very unique without the painted headlights. I say do what you want but to me i think they would look better like mine (NSX-R style). I don't care if mine are unique, i am even going to post a DIY so others can do it :wink: .
Just realize that if the whole housing is painted then the signals and the parking lights will be about half as bright. They are not bright bulbs to begin with so they rely on the reflection. Also the parking lights will look very blue and the signals will take a green look.
Dude, my car around here is very unique without the painted headlights. I say do what you want but to me i think they would look better like mine (NSX-R style). I don't care if mine are unique, i am even going to post a DIY so others can do it :wink: .
Mike,
your car is looking awesome
i see you got the Downforce front lip too!
your car is looking awesome
i see you got the Downforce front lip too!
Thanks Erick,
Yes it is the DF and i love the way it looks (very happy). But i can't lower the car, scraped twice today :redface: .
New wheels next week :biggrin: .
Cheers
Very well done! The NSX should have came with matched painted headlights from the factory.
Thanks,
Yes you can but read post #136.
Thanks Buddy,
I agree. Someone said they thought it was a option on the JDM cars.
- Joined
- 30 July 2005
- Messages
- 2,219
well I have never been one to BS so I will say it like I see it. I like this because I think it looks different and unique... but I am still trying to get used to it. My gut feeling is perhaps it would have looked best if the whole housing was painted. I did a quick paint with my fine skills to get an idea. Still, I think you did a great job and it looks really good.
If I do it, I'll go this route.
Bat™
Congrats, on a very nice mod, glad to see someone do it themselves.
I seen 1 local here on a red and it was very nice too.He had alot of NSX-R type mods.
I am going to try this in yellow in the near future.Kudos for taking it apart yourself and teaching us.:biggrin:
Thanks for all the xtra help you posted on how-to, saves alot of time.
What temp was oven at? and for how long, u mentioned 2 hours to do, is that say 1hr warming each, and what glue used to re-seal, sorry if I missed it earlier, it was alot of reading.
Cheers
Maximumyield
I seen 1 local here on a red and it was very nice too.He had alot of NSX-R type mods.
I am going to try this in yellow in the near future.Kudos for taking it apart yourself and teaching us.:biggrin:
Thanks for all the xtra help you posted on how-to, saves alot of time.
What temp was oven at? and for how long, u mentioned 2 hours to do, is that say 1hr warming each, and what glue used to re-seal, sorry if I missed it earlier, it was alot of reading.
Cheers
Maximumyield
Thank You
This is also the time to do the bouncing fix in my "How To".
First you strip the light of all the bulbs and holders. Remove the ballast for the HID from the bottom of the assembly, unclip the ground wire from the top of the HID bulb and unclip the bulb shown below (red arrows) to remove the HID bulb.
Take all the racks out of the oven except for one at the very bottom. Place the light assembly with the clear lens down on top of some corrugated cardboard about 3/4"-1" thick and larger then the assembly.
Turn the oven on to 250 degrees (not preheat) and wait until it reaches temp. Turn the oven off and wait 2-3 minutes before putting in the assembly. Leave the assembly in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes and you are ready to start. As the assembly starts cooling the glue starts getting harder. You can put it back in the oven for a little longer (without turning the oven back on) and it will help if it seems too hard. The assembly is going to be hot and i don't think this can be done with gloves. My finger tips were sore for a day.
Important Note:
The reflector is attached to the housing and to the clear outer cover. To the outside of the assembly close to the signal light bulb you will see the screw that attaches to the reflector, it's the gold one (orange arrow in above picture). This screw needs to be removed.
Think of the reflector and the clear cover as one piece when you are removing the clear cover because they will have to be removed together because they are screwed together at the front. The screw can only be removed after the light is apart.
Look at the light and you will see the point where the clear cover meets the black part of the housing. There is a small raised lip on the clear cover at this point. What you will be doing is to take a small screwdriver and insert it between that raised lip on the clear cover and the black part of the housing. With light steady pressure twist the screwdriver. Do this very slowly don't just twist hard or you will deform the black plastic. You will get these little dents in it but that will be covered when you reseal them. A slight pressure is all it takes. the sealer that they used is very good so when it starts moving it will go slow. Once it gets wide enough to insert a large flat screwdriver do that and move about 2" over and do the same thing. You need to be trying to pull the clear cover away from the assembly the whole time, the screwdriver is just helping to separate them.
Don't forget about the keepers on the black plastic housing that clip on to the clear plastic cover. As they start separating you will have to help it over the tab to keep it from breaking (red arrow below).
Once you get a gap between the cover and assembly you will see the glue (sort of like putty) that they used stretching. You can run a razor knife through the gap and cut it. You will be reusing the old putty (and new sealer) so don't let it get dirty.
Start from the bottom front of the assembly work your way around both sides doing the top back last.
To reassemble
Heat the oven to 200 degrees, turn it off and as before wait 2-3 minutes before putting the light in. Place the clear plastic cover on top of the assembly. It will just be laying on top of the assembly but lined up like it goes. Place the assembly on the same cardboard as before but this time the clear plastic will face up instead of down. Leave the assembly in the oven for about 10 minutes. Remove it and start pushing the clear plastic back in to the assembly starting at the top rear. Work your way around the light until you get all the black plastic keepers snapped back on to the clear cover.
Now for a little extra protection from leaks, use sealer around the entire assembly. I used the silicone below and it worked great.
Fill in the gap between the black plastic and the raised lip on the clear cover. I even filled the area inside the black plastic keepers like below.
Read this over and check out the light before you start. If you have any questions just ask.
Good Luck.
This is also the time to do the bouncing fix in my "How To".
First you strip the light of all the bulbs and holders. Remove the ballast for the HID from the bottom of the assembly, unclip the ground wire from the top of the HID bulb and unclip the bulb shown below (red arrows) to remove the HID bulb.
Take all the racks out of the oven except for one at the very bottom. Place the light assembly with the clear lens down on top of some corrugated cardboard about 3/4"-1" thick and larger then the assembly.
Turn the oven on to 250 degrees (not preheat) and wait until it reaches temp. Turn the oven off and wait 2-3 minutes before putting in the assembly. Leave the assembly in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes and you are ready to start. As the assembly starts cooling the glue starts getting harder. You can put it back in the oven for a little longer (without turning the oven back on) and it will help if it seems too hard. The assembly is going to be hot and i don't think this can be done with gloves. My finger tips were sore for a day.
Important Note:
The reflector is attached to the housing and to the clear outer cover. To the outside of the assembly close to the signal light bulb you will see the screw that attaches to the reflector, it's the gold one (orange arrow in above picture). This screw needs to be removed.
Think of the reflector and the clear cover as one piece when you are removing the clear cover because they will have to be removed together because they are screwed together at the front. The screw can only be removed after the light is apart.
Look at the light and you will see the point where the clear cover meets the black part of the housing. There is a small raised lip on the clear cover at this point. What you will be doing is to take a small screwdriver and insert it between that raised lip on the clear cover and the black part of the housing. With light steady pressure twist the screwdriver. Do this very slowly don't just twist hard or you will deform the black plastic. You will get these little dents in it but that will be covered when you reseal them. A slight pressure is all it takes. the sealer that they used is very good so when it starts moving it will go slow. Once it gets wide enough to insert a large flat screwdriver do that and move about 2" over and do the same thing. You need to be trying to pull the clear cover away from the assembly the whole time, the screwdriver is just helping to separate them.
Don't forget about the keepers on the black plastic housing that clip on to the clear plastic cover. As they start separating you will have to help it over the tab to keep it from breaking (red arrow below).
Once you get a gap between the cover and assembly you will see the glue (sort of like putty) that they used stretching. You can run a razor knife through the gap and cut it. You will be reusing the old putty (and new sealer) so don't let it get dirty.
Start from the bottom front of the assembly work your way around both sides doing the top back last.
To reassemble
Heat the oven to 200 degrees, turn it off and as before wait 2-3 minutes before putting the light in. Place the clear plastic cover on top of the assembly. It will just be laying on top of the assembly but lined up like it goes. Place the assembly on the same cardboard as before but this time the clear plastic will face up instead of down. Leave the assembly in the oven for about 10 minutes. Remove it and start pushing the clear plastic back in to the assembly starting at the top rear. Work your way around the light until you get all the black plastic keepers snapped back on to the clear cover.
Now for a little extra protection from leaks, use sealer around the entire assembly. I used the silicone below and it worked great.
Fill in the gap between the black plastic and the raised lip on the clear cover. I even filled the area inside the black plastic keepers like below.
Read this over and check out the light before you start. If you have any questions just ask.
Good Luck.
