brake light failure display

[Hugh]

Because the sensor can only detect current when the bulbs are on?

Regarding whether halogens consume more or less current than oem I can't tell in your situation, I don't know what you installed. I only try to point out that what was installed isn't the same as what was there before and will draw different current. The sensor detects this different current and illuminates the dash light.
Have you tried putting the stock bulbs back in to see if the problem goes away?

Here is the description of the circuit from the service manual. I don't think it has anything to do with change of current. Rather whether or not there is continuity in the circuit to keep the Orange/White wire grounded.

The system works fine with the stock bulbs. The halogens have significantly more current draw than stock. Perhaps this is causing the relays in the failure indicators to work erratically and trigger the warning light.

 

[Hugh]

I completed the mod and it appears to work.

Well it almost worked. I had to do one more thing to make the idiot light go away for good. I cut the White/Green wire to the right of the blue plastic tap connector so it is no longer connected to the sensor. It is simply grounded now.

 

[Cees-Jan]

Looks to me that there is a difference between the left and the right indicator.Only one has a diode inside.

You can try replacing this one by a new one (1N4001 =0,5$).

If the light goes on spontaniously (NOT when braking) this is how the earthing circuit is connected (through the diode)

If the light comes on when braking, one off the relays or the contactor of the relay (8 !!! ) is not making the proper connection.

If the cruise conntrol doesnt work it is for safety because the system desperetly needs the brake pedal switch.....!!!!!

The relays are designed for 21 watt bulbs, bulbs with higher power will not affect the system, smaller bulbs will cause failure due to the lesser power availeble inside the relay (series connected)

 

[Cees-Jan]

Well it almost worked. I had to do one more thing to make the idiot light go away for good. I cut the White/Green wire to the right of the blue plastic tap connector so it is no longer connected to the sensor. It is simply grounded now.

In Your picture you connected the + 12 volts coming from the brakelightswitch to earth ????????
Did the fuse blow? (Check if horn still working)

After this you cut the wire, do the brake lights still work ??????




In the picture you can see an orange/white wire, this wire should be disconnected from the BLI and connected to earth to permmanently disable the system.

It is better to solder it to the black wire instead of using the blue thing (I have had so many problems with those blue s*^*)Connecting to the aluminium car body is not wise (corrosion!)

 

[Hugh]

In Your picture you connected the + 12 volts coming from the brakelightswitch to earth ????????

No, you're confusing the Green/White wire in the schematic with the wire shown in my photo which is White/Green. The wire shown in my photo continues on to a connector then continues it's journey to the front of the car as the Orange/White wire.

Remember, when a wire color combo is quoted, the solid color is first and the strip is second. "Solid/Stripe"

 

[Cees-Jan]

My mistake, is late at night and very hot night sooo

Remember to get rid of the blue connector, this will break down!!!


Ps nice speedometer picture Hugh, made it on the highway??

 

[Hugh]

It is better to solder it to the black wire instead of using the blue thing (I have had so many problems with those blue s*^*)Connecting to the aluminium car body is not wise (corrosion!)

Good point regarding the corrosion issue. I suppose I need to make sure the spade lug is aluminum.

The blue tap connector should be fine. Both wires are 16ga and blue is designed for 14ga - 18ga. Remember, these connectors are color coded for different gauge wires. A lot of the wires in a car's harness are small and might require the red connectors. But you're right about a solder connection being better. No disputing that! Now that I know the fix works, the next time I get back there I'll have my soldering iron with me. Thanks!

 

[Hugh]

Ps nice speedometer picture Hugh, made it on the highway??

It definitely wasn't in the driveway my friend!

 

[Cees-Jan]

On a jack maybe......

 

[MarkB]

You will note, in the attached diagram, that the sensors are relays. If the bulbs in use have a higher resistance (draw more amps) than the OEM bulbs, the relay might not successfully trip due to a lack of power.

 

[Hugh]

Mark, Where is that diagram from? The one in the main service manual isn't as detailed. And could you possibly scan and post the upper part of your image that's cut off?

I want to see where else that Orange/White wire goes. I've noticed some weirdness going on since I cut it coming out of the failure sensor and grounded it. I'll post about the weirdness in the morning when I'm sure about it.

Thanks,
Hugh

 

[MarkB]

The diagram is from the CD version of the manual that I purchased recently.

I posted the whole page here.

 

[Hugh]

So much for the halogen 1157s. They melted the bulb sockets. I have to replace 3 of the 4 holders. Silly me. Such is the price for better visibility.

 

[andy l.]

Mark,

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You will note, in the attached diagram, that the sensors are relays. If the bulbs in use have a higher resistance (draw more amps) than the OEM bulbs, the relay might not successfully trip due to a lack of power.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It should be the other way around:

Bulbs with higher resistance draw less current (amps) thus the relays might not be able to attract due to the lower current in each serial path (relay coil - bulb).
You may also look at it as two resistors in serial forming a voltage divider; voltage drop over bulbs bulbs of higher resistance will increase over the regular ones as the remaining voltage over relay coils will decrease (by exactly the amount the voltage increased over the bulbs since supply voltage stays the same).

As I understand the circuit sensor relays do not trip but attract when hitting the brake pedal (brake switch contact closes) for the first time and stay energized after that until a bulb breaks (interrupting current trough one of the relay coils) or the car is shut down (supply via F5 shut off).
They achieve this by making use of the relay's "inertia".

By this way the system is able to detect a broken bulb not only when actually braking but also when not being on the brakes, means a permanent supervision of your brake lights.

andy l.

 

[nsxhk]

Update:

Today, I changed out the old sensor to a pair of new sensors, not much help. The brake light is still lit. Then I tried Hugh's approach. I tried grounding the Orange/white wire, problem still persist.

OTOH, I tried Hugh's method on my friend's nsx, it cured his brake light problem, what gives??

My mechanic said it could be my instrument cluster itself?!?! $$$

Btw, I have a pair of brand new sensors for sale, asking $50.

Henry.

 

[Me333-NSX]

First of all, I am tremendously sorry for all the crap everyone has gone through with that damn lamp light. Mine was on for about 15 hours and it drove me nuts. After reading all your solutions and stuff, I took on the task and did it myself and got it to work the 2nd try (The first try was a flop). Thanks to everyone for their input I appreciate it and I can say...hooked on nsxprime worked for me... sorry to everyone who is still having problems. I see any light turn on in the dash and it drives me crazy until I can fix it or have it fixed.
Ken
'91/blk/blk Targa

 

[AldnEnrqz]

So how did you fix the brake lamp problem?

 

[AldnEnrqz]

I managed to fix the problem by replacing the bulb that had a burnt out filament.

 

[NSX~PERT]

Reviving this thread, did grounding the Orange/ White or White/Green wire work? I want to be able to get rid of the light permenently I can always have a friend tell me when my lights are out....lol

 

[PoKnow]

Me too... and where is white/green?

Reviving this thread, did grounding the Orange/ White or White/Green wire work? I want to be able to get rid of the light permenently I can always have a friend tell me when my lights are out....lol

 

[PoKnow]

Gound White-Green confirmed working.

Simple... effective.

 

[NSX~PERT]

Confirmed I second that White-Green wire works :biggrin: on right tail light only.

 

[NSX~PERT]

White/Green did not work. I have the brake light indicator back on today. Any other suggestions? I guess it went away after I restarted car and I thought I fixed it. Usually goes away when I restart car but I want this to go away permenently

 

[Wwissman]

I have been reading your posts of the brake light failure. My '94 has the same problem. I thought I read somewhere in my research that there was a publication on the solution that Acura found to fix this. I can't seem to locate it. I'm having front LED lights wired into fuse # 4 (day-time running lights) similar to the R8 and thought I'd have my mechanic fix the brake light warning light also.
Wayne

 

[NSX~PERT]

If you find a solution let us know mine is still lit up.