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BBSC + 10lb pulley + aftercooler = 11lbs boost??
- Thread starter clarknm
- Start date
Where are you seeing 11 lbs. On the AEM or somewhere else?
Using my very high tech measuring tape, I measured the pulley on the car at ~3 5/8", with the other two at ~3.5" and 3 7/8", the measurements aren't exact of course but it is the middle of the 8/10/12 pulley's I got. So the pulley shouldn't be it. I got a PM that indicated I may have gave the impression that I did the install myself, I did not. I had it installed/tuned at st00pidfast in Houston, and they had a fun time with the install for sure.
Making a lot of power, I don't have an AFR chart but he tuned it very conservatively (and I got about 20mpg on the highway, so it's dumping lots of fuel). I'm searching for a HKS racing bypass to limit the boost to ~8.5psi but everyone is out of stock indefinitely at the moment. I haven't been going over 7000 rpm much (it's amazing how fast the needles move around that area though
).
I took it one a drive yesterday and one the way home it developed a LOUD rattle, sounds like a cheap mustang I once drove. I guess I need to send the unit to Mark Basch for new bearings or something, not really sure what it is though. Definitely sounds/feels like it's coming from the center of the SC driveshaft.
Making a lot of power, I don't have an AFR chart but he tuned it very conservatively (and I got about 20mpg on the highway, so it's dumping lots of fuel). I'm searching for a HKS racing bypass to limit the boost to ~8.5psi but everyone is out of stock indefinitely at the moment. I haven't been going over 7000 rpm much (it's amazing how fast the needles move around that area though
). I took it one a drive yesterday and one the way home it developed a LOUD rattle, sounds like a cheap mustang I once drove. I guess I need to send the unit to Mark Basch for new bearings or something, not really sure what it is though. Definitely sounds/feels like it's coming from the center of the SC driveshaft.
Wow. Impessive Dyno. Be very careful with that much power on stock internals. I would take it easy until you get the bypass valve.
Sounds like it might be the "spider" on the drive shaft not the bearings.
Armando
MiamieNeSeX said:
Didn't you find a source for those armando?
NetViper said:
At last check, Mark B. has them.
Armando
Is this a DIY type thing? (relatively, I've tackled headers and fuel pump but the SC was a bit much for me). I've read a lot of posts about this mythical spider but I don't really know what it is..hopefully it's a easy fix
*edit: Additional details, it's worst at idle. If I let off the gas and depress the clutch pedal it is quiet until it reachs idle engine speed. Under load, it's not as loud as idle but it's still pretty bad...as the RPMs climb it gets drowned out with the sweet sweet music of the car; SoS headers and Taitec GTLW exhaust, btw.
*edit: Additional details, it's worst at idle. If I let off the gas and depress the clutch pedal it is quiet until it reachs idle engine speed. Under load, it's not as loud as idle but it's still pretty bad...as the RPMs climb it gets drowned out with the sweet sweet music of the car; SoS headers and Taitec GTLW exhaust, btw.
unlemming said:Is this a DIY type thing? (relatively, I've tackled headers and fuel pump but the SC was a bit much for me). I've read a lot of posts about this mythical spider but I don't really know what it is..hopefully it's a easy fix
*edit: Additional details, it's worst at idle. If I let off the gas and depress the clutch pedal it is quiet until it reachs idle engine speed. Under load, it's not as loud as idle but it's still pretty bad...as the RPMs climb it gets drowned out with the sweet sweet music of the car; SoS headers and Taitec GTLW exhaust, btw.
The "spider" is a small hard plastic star shaped piece that goes between the blower assembly and the drive shaft assembly . Remove the four hex nut closest to the blower on the drive assembly and remove the bolts holing the opposite end to the block.
Armando
I ordered a new spider so that's on the way, hopefully it will fix the rattle.
On to the boost, I was looking at the HKS Racing Bypass Valve (Yellow, 6-12 PSI) and it's been discontinued . Anyone know of any other suitable options? Looking to limit it to probably 8.5-9 PSI which should get me where I want to be with good lowend and minimal wasted boost.
On to the boost, I was looking at the HKS Racing Bypass Valve (Yellow, 6-12 PSI) and it's been discontinued
. Anyone know of any other suitable options? Looking to limit it to probably 8.5-9 PSI which should get me where I want to be with good lowend and minimal wasted boost.The new spider did nothing for the rattle, . At least I'm a pro at taking the driveline on/off now
On the racing bypass valve, I found one place that said they can get the yellow spring so I bought 2 springs and a red valve assembly. I also bought the dual channel AEM UEGO wideband kit. This damn thing sure is expensive, I can't wait until I can drive it
. At least I'm a pro at taking the driveline on/off now On the racing bypass valve, I found one place that said they can get the yellow spring so I bought 2 springs and a red valve assembly. I also bought the dual channel AEM UEGO wideband kit. This damn thing sure is expensive, I can't wait until I can drive it
When you were installing the new plastic spyder did you make sure that the gear that ataches to the drive shaft side (where the spider sit in) was tight. This gear bolt and also the pully bolt seem to loosen up over time . I recommend to put a good amount of locktight on the threads of eack bolt. then with a open wrench on the pully side bolt have somebody hold it.Go to the other end and tighten with a socket. The gear bolt being loose sounds like a rattle where the paxton bolts up to the drive shaft.
Interesting, is there a specific torque setting to aim for or just as tight as I can reasonably get it?
I'm going to attach a .wav of the noise it's making also. Friggin loud, you can almost hear the engine
*edit Erhm, I'll link it since it doesn't like a .wav attachment:
http://www.flyingdevils.org/X/bbsc.wav
I'm going to attach a .wav of the noise it's making also. Friggin loud, you can almost hear the engine
*edit Erhm, I'll link it since it doesn't like a .wav attachment:
http://www.flyingdevils.org/X/bbsc.wav
unlemming said:Interesting, is there a specific torque setting to aim for or just as tight as I can reasonably get it?
I'm going to attach a .wav of the noise it's making also. Friggin loud, you can almost hear the engine
*edit Erhm, I'll link it since it doesn't like a .wav attachment:
http://www.flyingdevils.org/X/bbsc.wav
Whoa.. I have never heard anything like that.
I took it off, tightened it up, couldn't start the engine. Took it back off, loosened it up, couldn't start the engine. Tried to bypass the supercharger altogether, couldn't start the engine. It turns over, but it never fires up. Looks like I ruined a perfectly good NSX.
unlemming said:
If the car will not start with the SC belt off then the problem dosent stem from the SC itself. I cylinder that isnt firing correctly will make the noise caused by the sc gear lash more prominent.
Armando
MiamieNeSeX said:
I'm pretty lost at this point, way out of my element, I don't know if there is any value to the OBDII codes with the AEM in place but I did get something about a crank sensor A position and two 'invalid' codes according to my software (P1000 I think). Nothing about cylinder misfire. So far as I can tell the AEM doesn't offer any kind of troubleshooting codes to review. I took the aftercooler out and put the filter directly onto the TB just in case it wasn't getting air or something, I dunno, but it didn't help. I think I'm going to have to flatbed it somewhere...rent a truck and take it back to Houston I guess.
So it started fine, you tightened the spyder and now it doesn't start?
That doesn't make much sense to me at all.
Did you try putting the OEM belt on and bypassing the AEM?
That doesn't make much sense to me at all.
Did you try putting the OEM belt on and bypassing the AEM?
You cannot "bypass" the AEM, but if you have the factory ECU you can reconnect and try to start.
Armando
Armando
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