BBSC + 10lb pulley + aftercooler = 11lbs boost??
- Thread starter clarknm
- Start date
I don't know what the accuracy is at that level, definitely rich though. The numbers at idle/accel/cruise all center around 5-5.3 or so...the highest I saw was 6.4 on a decelleration/coast for a brief period. Just from glancing at the laptop display, random sampling I suppose.
Of course, somethings hinky. My laptop says AFR is 5. But the voltage on the install instructions chart indicates much higher..idle at 3.2V = ~0.85lambda = ~12.5 AFR. Which syncs up with the formula Gasoline AFR = Lambda * 14.64. So I'm much better than I thought. Actually doesn't seem bad, though idle should still be closer to stoich right?
what kind of widebands did you install? The FJO has to be programmed for type of sensor and voltage range with the laptop. I am not sure about the AEM setup but it sounds like a simple programming adjustment since your voltage is in the right neigborhood
I got the AEM wideband kit to ensure no compatibility problems with the AEM ECU. I used the wizard to select the AEM (external) O2 Controller (or something like that). I may just need to tweak some settings for the individual sensors or something.
I got my HKS racing bypass today with two extra springs. The springs have the correct (yellow) part number on them but there is a disturbing red "dot" sticker on them. One looks like it was on a self for a good long while and the label sticker is peeling and nasty, but the red dot sticker is pretty clean where it's peeling. Yeah, not exactly strong evidence, but hopefully the dot is meaningless
I got my HKS racing bypass today with two extra springs. The springs have the correct (yellow) part number on them but there is a disturbing red "dot" sticker on them. One looks like it was on a self for a good long while and the label sticker is peeling and nasty, but the red dot sticker is pretty clean where it's peeling. Yeah, not exactly strong evidence, but hopefully the dot is meaningless
I'm getting some conflicting info, right now my cruise AFR seems to be around 12.5. Is this OK for the engine? I'm also still having a problem getting the AEM to read the second Wideband O2 sensor. The voltage unplugged is ~4V but when I plug it into the AEM it drops to nearly nothing. I'm 100% sure I'm using the right pins. And one final problem, I installed the HKS bypass but I don't seem to even make much boost (<1 PSI) according to the Engine Load reading (but according to my butt dyno, I'm making plenty of boost). So basically something is wrong, there, too. Any ideas?
you were asking about starting the car with aem ems. the answer is yes every single honda i've ever seen with aem ems takes longer cranking time before starting something about it needing to see at least one full revolution before firing also your a/f ratio on laptop may not be correct, did you select gasoline as your fuel? i've made that mistake before.hope this helps
wil
wil
Thanks, yeah that was my mistake when I first installed and got 5 AFRs. Gasoline was selected but you have to actually click the apply button..not very intuitive. Overall not very impressed with AEMs interface, from the user trying to see what his car is doing side of things. I'm sure it's quite capable on the tuner backend.
The input for the second O2 channel is dropping the voltage, when it's not plugged in (during calibration) the wideband controller is putting out 4V, when I plug it in it drops to 0.xx (read on a multimeter).
Yesterday the dash oil pressure light came on, the oil pressure gauge indicates everything is good and the oil levels are good on the dipstick. The oil itself has good coloration and is relatively new. Got codes P335, P8201, and Pe700 from the OBD2 port, but I don't know if those have any value whatsoever with the AEM installed. I tried to find info through the AEM software (Oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant temperature) and I don't see any options for viewing that info (that I assume it's monitoring). I guess I (incorrectly) expected/assumed if something is wrong and throwing a code/alarm the AEM software should at least bring up the parameter causing the alarm when you connect to it.
And the last big deal, I've got a HKS racing bypass to limit the boost to ~9PSI. Only I can't see any boost through the AEM. My tuner stepped me through changing units to PSI to make it easy to understand, but the engine load never seems to exceed +1 PSIg. Mostly it's negative, even though the BOV isn't "breathing".
:redface:
Yesterday the dash oil pressure light came on, the oil pressure gauge indicates everything is good and the oil levels are good on the dipstick. The oil itself has good coloration and is relatively new. Got codes P335, P8201, and Pe700 from the OBD2 port, but I don't know if those have any value whatsoever with the AEM installed. I tried to find info through the AEM software (Oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant temperature) and I don't see any options for viewing that info (that I assume it's monitoring). I guess I (incorrectly) expected/assumed if something is wrong and throwing a code/alarm the AEM software should at least bring up the parameter causing the alarm when you connect to it.
And the last big deal, I've got a HKS racing bypass to limit the boost to ~9PSI. Only I can't see any boost through the AEM. My tuner stepped me through changing units to PSI to make it easy to understand, but the engine load never seems to exceed +1 PSIg. Mostly it's negative, even though the BOV isn't "breathing".
:redface:
- Joined
- 5 April 2005
- Messages
- 220
Please take your car back to your qualified AEM tuner for a refresher tuning session. A lot of things have changed since your car was on the dyno - improper SC drive belt routing, bypass valve installation, etc.
I would really hate to see something bad come of this.
I would really hate to see something bad come of this.
Well put Devin. The codes that you are getting are normal as the stock computer will have codes due to the fact that the stock computer is in the car only to run the DBW system. Not all info is ran to the stock computer thus resulting in codes.
Once I get this oil pressure thing taken care of, hopefully it's just the switch, I'll schedule some more tuning. I'm not sure I see how the belt and bypass would affect anything but I'm not thrilled with the tune being so rich and spewing crap out the back so much. But apparently too rich is far better than too lean
With a properly tuned car, the car should run like a stock car until your get your foot into it. The car should never be running rich unless it is in boost. In vacum at a cruise to light load you shoud be at around 14.7:1 afr and then going to around 13:1 as you take away the vacum puting more load on the motor then as boost starts to come on afr should be around 12:1 to 11.5:1 afr. A properly tuned car should never be in the 12s at cruise. If it is I would recomend getting the car back in for more tuning as there can be problems with running this rich. Bad MPG, dillution of oil, fuel washing the cylinders out, fouling spark plugs list goes on and on.
Hmm, my current tuner said it should be rich at idle as well to make it smooth. Is this not the case? (either way, it's rich 100% of the time now, which is not so good) I'm planning to get it fine tuned at Tuning Concepts in Austin, as I've heard great things about Justin Nenni and it's close enough to get to. Two big positives.
Well, I think I found out why the oil pressure light is on...
Click to enlarge..but basically they clamped down on the wiring! The pics aren't real easy to see it, but if the engine got hot enough I'd imagine the plastic melted off and now it's shorting out.
Click to enlarge..but basically they clamped down on the wiring! The pics aren't real easy to see it, but if the engine got hot enough I'd imagine the plastic melted off and now it's shorting out.
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