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BBSC + 10lb pulley + aftercooler = 11lbs boost??

I tightened the driveline itself not the spider gear, but yes...I made that sound clip last night and this morning I pulled the driveline to tighten it..and it doesn't start now. I bought an OEM belt from Autozone but I guess the crank pulley is a different size for the BBSC because it didn't even come close to fitting.

I'm afraid to disconnect the AEM without knowing what all the wires are doing, and there are a lot of wires, I'm afraid to make things worse somehow. Also, I may be way off, but I thought the stock ECU is still in there it's just that the AEM takes over some functions?
 
unlemming said:
I tightened the driveline itself not the spider gear, but yes...I made that sound clip last night and this morning I pulled the driveline to tighten it..and it doesn't start now. I bought an OEM belt from Autozone but I guess the crank pulley is a different size for the BBSC because it didn't even come close to fitting.

I'm afraid to disconnect the AEM without knowing what all the wires are doing, and there are a lot of wires, I'm afraid to make things worse somehow. Also, I may be way off, but I thought the stock ECU is still in there it's just that the AEM takes over some functions?
Click to expand...


What year is the car? There is absolutly no way the replacement of the "spider" has anything to do with your car not starting.

Armando
 
It's a 96, I guess it's coincidence but the only change was tightening the driveline...so I'm afraid maybe I tightened it too much and broke something, I dunno. But it turned by hand even after I tightened it. So, I don't think that's it...but I don't know what is going on and it's driving me nuts.

Anyway, I pulled the panels and realized everything is pretty plug and play, so I undid the AEM and plugged everything back in to stock parts...and it still won't start. Though it did start to smell like gas after a few tries, which I expected but it didn't smell in my earlier attempts. Probably nothing. Anyway, I plugged in the OBD2 scanner and no codes at all...it just won't fire...argh.
 
Well that's scary, how is the belt supposed to go? Maybe that's why they couldn't get the included belt to fit? I haven't a clue about the boost level :), least of my concerns now :(. I did find a source for the racing bypass though, so if it ever starts up I'll be able to limit the boost to ~9psi
 
excuse the very crude drawing :) But green is how it is/was, and I'm guessing blue is how it should be?
 

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MiamieNeSeX said:
You cannot "bypass" the AEM, but if you have the factory ECU you can reconnect and try to start.

Armando
Click to expand...

You know what I meant.

The car should start like that, but it will be rich as a pig. Only run it for a few seconds.

I wonder if it might be the main relay? Try a search on that just to see.

I can't believe they had the belt on wrong. G
 
NetViper said:
You know what I meant.

The car should start like that, but it will be rich as a pig.

I wonder if it might be the main relay? Try a search on that just to see.
Click to expand...

I did look at that, and oddly I can't find the main relay box behind the seats..I assumed the AEM tookover that function
 
unlemming said:
I did look at that, and oddly I can't find the main relay box behind the seats..I assumed the AEM tookover that function
Click to expand...

I don't know the answer to that one, but I bet armando or devin will.

I am thinking it must be something simple. There is no way you broke your car just by tightening the spyder. On top of that, you got no codes when the OEM ecu was in. Which is a good thing.
 
i'm with armando and dave on this one.. i would find it pretty hard to beleive you broke something by tightening the spider. you might have banged into something electrical while messing around, loosening something electrical. I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Well after two busy work days I pulled a spark plug...and...carbon fouled? I'm guessing the crap out the exhaust isn't normal at startup like they said. Or at least not the amount I get...thoughts?
 

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Is it supposed to take a few seconds to fire with the AEM? That's something that's kind of irked me since I got it installed. Was troubleshooting with Devin and Armando Sunday night and they suggested the different throttle amounts, no luck. I'm hoping it's just the spark plugs and replacing them + tweaking the tune will resolve this problem.

Also, they installed NGK 2669..which I'm discovering is very difficult to find in stock. I bought some ZEX plugs before I got the SC installed, but the shop recommended the Iridiums so I went with those. If I install the ZEX plugs I have on hand, will this screw up the tune (more)?
 
unlemming said:
Is it supposed to take a few seconds to fire with the AEM? That's something that's kind of irked me since I got it installed. Was troubleshooting with Devin and Armando Sunday night and they suggested the different throttle amounts, no luck. I'm hoping it's just the spark plugs and replacing them + tweaking the tune will resolve this problem.

Also, they installed NGK 2669..which I'm discovering is very difficult to find in stock. I bought some ZEX plugs before I got the SC installed, but the shop recommended the Iridiums so I went with those. If I install the ZEX plugs I have on hand, will this screw up the tune (more)?
Click to expand...

I was told to avoid to iridium plugs by Paxton and others.

When you start the car, you turn the ignition on, wait till you hear the fuel pump click and then it should fire right up.

I was told to avoid driving at low RPM a lot as slowspeed because it may foul plugs. I had that problem with the SSBOX, but never with AEM.
 
It's ALIVE!!

Good news! I replaced the spark plugs with the coldest plugs I could find in town (#7s not #9s like I had) and it fired up. All of the plugs looked like the one above. So I threw everything back on and routed the proper belt (060672) in the proper way. I also tightened the piece that the spider mounts to on the SC side, it actually pulled off with almost no pressure at all. Now the car not only starts, it doesn't have that horrid rattle! (so either tightening it or routing the belt properly or both fixed that)

So, now it sits waiting for my AEM widebands and HKS racing bypass. I should probably look at some difference spark plugs too, I'm still not sure if it's safe to change the temperature like that.

As far as the starting, when I turn the key I hear the aftercooler water pump and the fuel pump. I can wait all day but once I turn to crank, it has never (since installing the AEM/BBSC) fired up without taking a few seconds of cranking. Based on your response, though, it sounds like it SHOULD fire like a stock car...that is: right away. Any tips from you AEM heads for fixing this? Or is it something I can't/shouldn't be messing with?

Thanks a LOT for all the help thusfar guys, just a couple more issues to fix and I'll be good to go. :cool:

I think. :)
 
The quickest way to an engine build is to mess with something you know nothing about. Leave the AEM tuning to someone that knows. As far as your plugs, you should be ok with the #7s depending on boost. As far as cold start, the tuner will likely fix 90% of that issue, but depending on the size injectors that you are running turning the key for a few seconds to give the fuel pump a chance is not that big a deal.



Armando
 
Wideband install

I can deal with that, just wanted to be sure though :) Boost is "up to" 11 psi..but I haven't see that for my own eyes.

I have another question about the widebands I just got...reading up on the instructions and some Prime posts indicates I need to install these in addition to the stock O2 sensors. Which would involve welding..clearly out of my skillset. However, when I spoke with my tuner he said it would be something I could install in my garage. I figured it was a simple pull the stock O2 out and put the wideband O2 in. So: do they need they're own bungs or do I use stock bungs?
 
i paid $50 to have a bung welded on by a muffler shop, then off to mark basch's shop for the install of the whole thing. Don't care to crawl under my car much these days.
 
Updates: I got the widebands installed and hacked one of them up, got an AFR of just over 5. :eek: Yeah. Calibrated fine at 4V then I plugged it in and...yeah, 5-6 AFR mostly 5. Pretty sure everything is in order after some trial and error with the install (thanks in particular to Dynomike, Chris, DDozier). Houston, here I come.

The HKS racing bypass..still not here, I called the shop and they said the drop shipped it to me and would call back with a tracking number. They didn't. I think they may have been wrong about getting what I need.

UPS did try to deliver the datastream gauge today, so that's good. I can watch my ridiculously rich AFR safer than on the laptop that way :)
 

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