Look what came in the mail today :biggrin:
Window regulators upgrade
- Thread starter Hugabuga
- Start date
mine came in yesterday too! :biggrin:
need some ideas...one of my two bumpstops is missing (i know there are only 2 total–one for each side). we can't just order bumpstops so i wanted to see what other ideas or suggestion anyone might have as a solution with longevity in mind.
<img src="http://www.vf2ss.com/transfer/bumpstop.jpg" border="0"/>
i asked hugo if he had any extras lying around and unfortunately he did not. he suggested maybe taking a rubber tire off of a die-cast car and wrapping it around the mounting spot. this sounds like a good idea but i've seen those tires split in half as they age with time and i would like something that is a little more permanent.
need some ideas...one of my two bumpstops is missing (i know there are only 2 total–one for each side). we can't just order bumpstops so i wanted to see what other ideas or suggestion anyone might have as a solution with longevity in mind.
<img src="http://www.vf2ss.com/transfer/bumpstop.jpg" border="0"/>
i asked hugo if he had any extras lying around and unfortunately he did not. he suggested maybe taking a rubber tire off of a die-cast car and wrapping it around the mounting spot. this sounds like a good idea but i've seen those tires split in half as they age with time and i would like something that is a little more permanent.
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I think that the easiest thing to do for the broken bump stops is to glue a flat piece of rubber to the piece of angle at the bottom of the regulator rail. This will accomplish the same effect.
On an other note I am installing two pulleys at the top of my regulators. I will post pictures later. I am also having replacement sliders for the window regulator trolley made. I expect that they will be available in about 3-4 weeks and will cost about $40 for a set of 8.
Brad
On an other note I am installing two pulleys at the top of my regulators. I will post pictures later. I am also having replacement sliders for the window regulator trolley made. I expect that they will be available in about 3-4 weeks and will cost about $40 for a set of 8.
Brad
Hugo, you are a genius. I sent you a PM.
- Joined
- 16 April 2007
- Messages
- 1,783
If nothing else, you could cut yourself a new one out of UHMW material, such as the item sold here (I have no affiliation):
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004299/8830/UHMW-Assortment-Pack-3-Lb.aspx
Got mine today but will wait till fall to put them in. Came super fast, thanks for the great service!
Peter
Peter
What would be the impact if I have *no* bump stop installed?
bjmills: the only impact of not having a bump stop is that you will feel and hear a clunck "bump" evertime you fully open your window, we will loose all the smoothness of operation that an NSX window is supposed to have as a supercar, it will contribute to reveal its age but there is no other consequence.
If you replace the guides, you should flip the bump stop as it gets damaged in one side with time, it will then last for 20 more years and you will get all that new OEM smooth operating feeling again:wink:
OLDMNSX: please start your own thread to offer your products, and post them in the vendor section.
The benefits of upper pulleys clearly do not compensate the disadvantages, friction is much lower there, you need to destroy the upper guide and loose all the plug & play reverse compatibility and probably all the OEM reliability.
Suicidal "supersonic" aircraft pulleys without a safety cable guiding device on top are not the solution :biggrin:
If you replace the guides, you should flip the bump stop as it gets damaged in one side with time, it will then last for 20 more years and you will get all that new OEM smooth operating feeling again:wink:
OLDMNSX: please start your own thread to offer your products, and post them in the vendor section.
The benefits of upper pulleys clearly do not compensate the disadvantages, friction is much lower there, you need to destroy the upper guide and loose all the plug & play reverse compatibility and probably all the OEM reliability.
Suicidal "supersonic" aircraft pulleys without a safety cable guiding device on top are not the solution :biggrin:
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shawn110975
Suspended
Hugo I saw on another thread this guy took your idea and added to your already perfect Upgrade,
this guy has added two more Wheels at the top of the bracket,
Is there a reason you didnt do this on your original design? will those extra pulley wheels add to the speed of your window upgrade?
also would those wheels this guy has are from an aircraft pulley wouldnt their hardness basicly grind away the wire that pulls the window up and down, sort of like a grinding wheel you use to sharpen knives?lol
let me know I would like to know.
this guy has added two more Wheels at the top of the bracket,
Is there a reason you didnt do this on your original design? will those extra pulley wheels add to the speed of your window upgrade?
also would those wheels this guy has are from an aircraft pulley wouldnt their hardness basicly grind away the wire that pulls the window up and down, sort of like a grinding wheel you use to sharpen knives?lol
let me know I would like to know.
Shawn110975 do you have any more difficult questions to ask me :biggrin:?
Well, I freely shared the idea with the community so anyone is free to copy and replicate it, as only good ideas get stolen I will take that as a proof of merit rather than a “copyright” robbery
However, the funniest and most interesting part of this project is that we all shared our ideas first, everyone brought his own concern and contributed to find the best solution, I don't see OLDMSNX talking to anyone, he just came with a ready-made solution, promising to sell kits!
He probably just thought that a military aircraft pulleys would be better just because of their best-money-can-buy quality, and that would be enough to improve my solution.
Truth is that you simply do not need aircraft or NASA spacecraft hi-tech quality there, no car manufacturer uses them, that is simply useless.
I see a lot of problems with upper pulleys, that is why I gave up of them, here is my mechanical engineering concerns about it and OLDMSNX's solution:
First, the lower pulley is only acting on the returning cable, load is really low there about 1kg (2.2lbs) force, the weight of the glass does not exist here, nevertheless I chose heavy-duty pulleys from running home doors/windows and so I never had overload issues there.
Then I used 8mm (5/16”) diameter screw, with double 20mm (13/16”) washers of 1.5mm (3/64”) thickness, all made from highly rigid stainless steel material and therefore I never had fixation or bending problems.
The upper pulley directly holds the glass weight in a 90o angle cable means a resultant force equals to square root of 2(=1.41) times the load, and each time the window gets closed it must permanently hold the maximum motor tension capacity of about 20kg-44lbs (remember my “bottle” movie, the motor could lift 4 bottles of 5kg ...)
that means a permanent 1.41x 20kg = 28kg (62lbs) (load directly on the upper pulley! I don't see any load capacity chart in his pulley website...
But the biggest problem (admitting the pulley can hold the load capacity) is the fixation of the pulley in the upper part of the regulator, how can you prevent the thin aluminium base of the regulator or the pulley screw from bending with a 62lbs force? Then if it bends, the pulley will touch the base, produce friction, will become a grinding wheel to cable or its own groove if the cable miraculously doesn't jump out! Better would be a 2 points fixation rather than 1 there
Another issue would be vibration transmission from the motor trough the cable and trough the pulleys (or produced by the ball bearings themselves as they are metal against metal and he uses 3 of them) to the door witch will act as a resonance box, we would probably hear an unpleasant noise each time you open or close your windows, that is why all car manufacturer use plastic pulleys without any ball bearings, I use a quite “metal against plastic” one, and plastic does dissipate all cable vibrations if any.
As Greenberet correctly mentioned, there might also be another problem, he is using phenolic pulley, we don't know how they will react with ageing to all types of grease. Completely dry cables would produce a lot of friction in the cable outer casings, and will surely get damaged over time.
That maximum 20kg- 44lbs load is also acting on that grey cable outer casing, he invented some sort of crushing-plate solution to hold that cable casing
I am not sure this is the best solution.
It also seems to me that he needs to use more cable length to pass through all the pulleys, resulting in a short travel distance of the lever?
Then there is not a single safety guiding device on top of the 3 pulleys, this is “suicidal”, would you hang a 900$ painting (price of an nsx regulator) weighting 62lbs (maximum load of motor), on a wall, just by a small 1mm (1/32”) cable, in a permanent hearthquake environment (bumps on the street, closing door wile operating the window) hoping it will never fall from the nail, relying only on the cable tension itself?
And finally, just for fun, if you operate his regulator outside the door and fully close it I bet you will break the upper pulley or its fixation as there is no stopper to prevent the lever from touching the pulley, the OEM white upper guide does act as a stopper.
Using a faster motor, like an Acura CL or something else is not a good idea, faster means stronger, so instead of 20kg maximum force, you will have 30 or 40kg, that will bend or probably break the lever due to CREEP (mechanical deformation over long periods of permanent load), OEM creep is already too high, check how your lever gets deformed with time. It happens because upper stoppers are acting on glass and not directly on the lever, so there is a torque acting on it thus producing its creep deformation.
There is no torque when fully opening the window as lower stop bump acts directly on lever.
Then for cheap guides, if someone has a better solution then producing a mould to get plastic injection please let me know and I will save a lot of $$ next time, I used the same company that produces dashboard parts for German VW/Audi here in Portugal, we have a very well reputationed mould industry, next time I will shoot a movie of the TEFLON guides being produced and getting out of that monster machine just for fun and sharing
Looking at all these disadvantages, I clearly believe there is no point using upper pulleys, and best way to prove would be to time the motor with a 5kg (11lbs) load (=weight of the glass), without any pulleys and friction at all (direct cable on weight), to see how fast it could ever get and compare it with the 2.5 sec down and 3.5 up times that I have reached with my solution. I will try to find some time this weekend to make that test.
A better idea than a 3 pulley mod....would be a 4 pulley mod where you don't need to destroy the OEM regulator, you can sell it and with that money get and adapt a more modern regulator, for ex from an Audi, directly on the 2 window tracks, with a pulley on each side of the tracks and you wont't have torque issues on regulator lever to worry about:biggrin:
So my advice is: keep it simple, use my kit or build your own single-lower-pulley and you will avoid dangerous higher loads on pulleys, reduced regulator lifetime with increased risk of cable jump and regulator failure, bending issues, PLUG & PLAY loss, grease on phenolic unknown results, operating noise vibrations, increased lever creep and so on...
I have sold a lot of kits, and not a single regulator have failed so far, mainly because I kept the OEM Japanese reliability of that upper guide intact! I will focus on other mods now as I truly believe this one has reached its ultimate stage with the sleeve, single lower pulley and the teflon guides
OLDMNSX: please respect my work and post your answer, if any, on your own thread, as someone kindly asked me to delete mine on yours in respect of you!
Thank you all for your support
Hugo
Well, I freely shared the idea with the community so anyone is free to copy and replicate it, as only good ideas get stolen I will take that as a proof of merit rather than a “copyright” robbery
However, the funniest and most interesting part of this project is that we all shared our ideas first, everyone brought his own concern and contributed to find the best solution, I don't see OLDMSNX talking to anyone, he just came with a ready-made solution, promising to sell kits!
He probably just thought that a military aircraft pulleys would be better just because of their best-money-can-buy quality, and that would be enough to improve my solution.
Truth is that you simply do not need aircraft or NASA spacecraft hi-tech quality there, no car manufacturer uses them, that is simply useless.
I see a lot of problems with upper pulleys, that is why I gave up of them, here is my mechanical engineering concerns about it and OLDMSNX's solution:
First, the lower pulley is only acting on the returning cable, load is really low there about 1kg (2.2lbs) force, the weight of the glass does not exist here, nevertheless I chose heavy-duty pulleys from running home doors/windows and so I never had overload issues there.
Then I used 8mm (5/16”) diameter screw, with double 20mm (13/16”) washers of 1.5mm (3/64”) thickness, all made from highly rigid stainless steel material and therefore I never had fixation or bending problems.
The upper pulley directly holds the glass weight in a 90o angle cable means a resultant force equals to square root of 2(=1.41) times the load, and each time the window gets closed it must permanently hold the maximum motor tension capacity of about 20kg-44lbs (remember my “bottle” movie, the motor could lift 4 bottles of 5kg ...)
that means a permanent 1.41x 20kg = 28kg (62lbs) (load directly on the upper pulley! I don't see any load capacity chart in his pulley website...
But the biggest problem (admitting the pulley can hold the load capacity) is the fixation of the pulley in the upper part of the regulator, how can you prevent the thin aluminium base of the regulator or the pulley screw from bending with a 62lbs force? Then if it bends, the pulley will touch the base, produce friction, will become a grinding wheel to cable or its own groove if the cable miraculously doesn't jump out! Better would be a 2 points fixation rather than 1 there
Another issue would be vibration transmission from the motor trough the cable and trough the pulleys (or produced by the ball bearings themselves as they are metal against metal and he uses 3 of them) to the door witch will act as a resonance box, we would probably hear an unpleasant noise each time you open or close your windows, that is why all car manufacturer use plastic pulleys without any ball bearings, I use a quite “metal against plastic” one, and plastic does dissipate all cable vibrations if any.
As Greenberet correctly mentioned, there might also be another problem, he is using phenolic pulley, we don't know how they will react with ageing to all types of grease. Completely dry cables would produce a lot of friction in the cable outer casings, and will surely get damaged over time.
That maximum 20kg- 44lbs load is also acting on that grey cable outer casing, he invented some sort of crushing-plate solution to hold that cable casing
I am not sure this is the best solution.It also seems to me that he needs to use more cable length to pass through all the pulleys, resulting in a short travel distance of the lever?
Then there is not a single safety guiding device on top of the 3 pulleys, this is “suicidal”, would you hang a 900$ painting (price of an nsx regulator) weighting 62lbs (maximum load of motor), on a wall, just by a small 1mm (1/32”) cable, in a permanent hearthquake environment (bumps on the street, closing door wile operating the window) hoping it will never fall from the nail, relying only on the cable tension itself?
And finally, just for fun, if you operate his regulator outside the door and fully close it I bet you will break the upper pulley or its fixation as there is no stopper to prevent the lever from touching the pulley, the OEM white upper guide does act as a stopper.
Using a faster motor, like an Acura CL or something else is not a good idea, faster means stronger, so instead of 20kg maximum force, you will have 30 or 40kg, that will bend or probably break the lever due to CREEP (mechanical deformation over long periods of permanent load), OEM creep is already too high, check how your lever gets deformed with time. It happens because upper stoppers are acting on glass and not directly on the lever, so there is a torque acting on it thus producing its creep deformation.
There is no torque when fully opening the window as lower stop bump acts directly on lever.
Then for cheap guides, if someone has a better solution then producing a mould to get plastic injection please let me know and I will save a lot of $$ next time, I used the same company that produces dashboard parts for German VW/Audi here in Portugal, we have a very well reputationed mould industry, next time I will shoot a movie of the TEFLON guides being produced and getting out of that monster machine just for fun and sharing
Looking at all these disadvantages, I clearly believe there is no point using upper pulleys, and best way to prove would be to time the motor with a 5kg (11lbs) load (=weight of the glass), without any pulleys and friction at all (direct cable on weight), to see how fast it could ever get and compare it with the 2.5 sec down and 3.5 up times that I have reached with my solution. I will try to find some time this weekend to make that test.
A better idea than a 3 pulley mod....would be a 4 pulley mod where you don't need to destroy the OEM regulator, you can sell it and with that money get and adapt a more modern regulator, for ex from an Audi, directly on the 2 window tracks, with a pulley on each side of the tracks and you wont't have torque issues on regulator lever to worry about:biggrin:
So my advice is: keep it simple, use my kit or build your own single-lower-pulley and you will avoid dangerous higher loads on pulleys, reduced regulator lifetime with increased risk of cable jump and regulator failure, bending issues, PLUG & PLAY loss, grease on phenolic unknown results, operating noise vibrations, increased lever creep and so on...
I have sold a lot of kits, and not a single regulator have failed so far, mainly because I kept the OEM Japanese reliability of that upper guide intact! I will focus on other mods now as I truly believe this one has reached its ultimate stage with the sleeve, single lower pulley and the teflon guides
OLDMNSX: please respect my work and post your answer, if any, on your own thread, as someone kindly asked me to delete mine on yours in respect of you!
Thank you all for your support
Hugo
- Joined
- 21 June 2007
- Messages
- 152
Awsome reply Hugo....next project..ABS upgrade?!:tongue:
SS
SS
shawn110975
Suspended
Wow... I didnt mean for you to have to type all of that to answer my question LOL.
but we all now understand WHY you didnt add the extra pulleys
Well done Hugo. Well done.
the Mod you created for our windows and then the guides are all we need.
you are an asset to Prime. I am sure many prime members will back me on that fact.
but we all now understand WHY you didnt add the extra pulleys
Well done Hugo. Well done.
the Mod you created for our windows and then the guides are all we need.
you are an asset to Prime. I am sure many prime members will back me on that fact.
Fellas,
Let's keep this civil.
Differing ideas should be welcomed.
Miner
Let's keep this civil.
Differing ideas should be welcomed.
Miner
Regarding the guides, I stumbled upon a listing of various plastics that can be used as bearings: http://www.totalplastics.com/assets/Mechanicals.pdf
From page 75: “Teflon® is available in both “unfilled” and “filled” formulations. Compounds are added to Teflon® for a variety of reasons, including improving its wear resistance, reducing creep and initial deformation ...”
Page 86: “DELRIN® AF Blend is a unique thermoplastic material for use in moving parts in which low friction and long wear life are important. It is a combination of PTFE fibers uniformly dispersed in Delrin® acetal resin.”
Page 88: “Fluorosint® PTFE-based products
• Chemical resistance parallels PTFE
• Better wear resistance than PTFE
• Higher load carrying capability
• 1/9 of the deformation under load”
Since you already have the moulds, some of those plastics may result in good window regulator guides. There might be something out there that still has low friction and does not degrade in the presence of various greases but has more dimensional stability than a pure PTFE.
From page 75: “Teflon® is available in both “unfilled” and “filled” formulations. Compounds are added to Teflon® for a variety of reasons, including improving its wear resistance, reducing creep and initial deformation ...”
Page 86: “DELRIN® AF Blend is a unique thermoplastic material for use in moving parts in which low friction and long wear life are important. It is a combination of PTFE fibers uniformly dispersed in Delrin® acetal resin.”
Page 88: “Fluorosint® PTFE-based products
• Chemical resistance parallels PTFE
• Better wear resistance than PTFE
• Higher load carrying capability
• 1/9 of the deformation under load”
Since you already have the moulds, some of those plastics may result in good window regulator guides. There might be something out there that still has low friction and does not degrade in the presence of various greases but has more dimensional stability than a pure PTFE.
First of all, I dont mean to disrespect you or your choice of materials Hugo. You adressed a problem on our cars and came up with a brilliand solution! I have your kit installed in my car and the "speed increase" is sufficient for me.
But, the pulleys OLDMNSX is using is definately up for the job, they are designed to be used with aircraft control cables without cable guides in an extremely vibrating enviorment (litteraly resposible for hundreds of lives onboard an aircraft), and comparing them to the value of a NSX windowregulator just doesnt make sense.
They are made from metal, but the "cable guide" part of them is composite, so there is no more noise or wear on the cable than any other pulley. (Again, they are made for aircraft use, I'm an aircraft mechanic and know what kind of qualitycontrol aircraft parts have to go through before they are allowed to be used on an aircraft.)
Still, I can understand that you dont want him "advertising" his product in this thread.
Peace
Arve
But, the pulleys OLDMNSX is using is definately up for the job, they are designed to be used with aircraft control cables without cable guides in an extremely vibrating enviorment (litteraly resposible for hundreds of lives onboard an aircraft), and comparing them to the value of a NSX windowregulator just doesnt make sense.
They are made from metal, but the "cable guide" part of them is composite, so there is no more noise or wear on the cable than any other pulley. (Again, they are made for aircraft use, I'm an aircraft mechanic and know what kind of qualitycontrol aircraft parts have to go through before they are allowed to be used on an aircraft.)
Still, I can understand that you dont want him "advertising" his product in this thread.
Peace
Arve
AJ/Miner: no one is disrespecting me by exposing different ideas, they are always welcome! Like theories, they always start as good ideas until you can prove they are wrong, by facts or physics, witch I believe I did for the upper pulleys
As a global quality of a system is defined by the lowest quality of all its components, what is the point of having high quality pulleys while all other parts have lower quality standards? It simply won't improve at all the global quality of the regulator, I can only see it as a commercial “propaganda” with a physics non-sense: “hey look, my windows use aircraft technology...”
Plastic pulleys do not fail (I have all the buyers of my kit to prove it), all car manufacturers uses that same type of pulley for their billions of regulators, so I see no point replacing my lower pulley by an aircraft one, and I will not repeat my concerns about upper pulleys and safety devices
Greenberet: thank you for the interesting info, you are not the first one suggesting DELRIN could be a good long term choice. I am happy with Teflon and found no issues with it, and when we compare it with missing or damaged OEM rubber guides, Teflon or Delrin looks like a similar choice to me.
The way I see it, the mould belongs to the “community” (as it was made for and paid by the buyers of the kit, members of that community) so if some of you would prefer DELRIN (or any other type of plastic) rather than Teflon I will have DELRIN guides available, as all it takes now is to replace the powder before the plastic injection, the mould is the same. For the interested members, please start and sign up your name in the order list in vendor section for DELRIN guides for me to know how many to produce
Thank you
As a global quality of a system is defined by the lowest quality of all its components, what is the point of having high quality pulleys while all other parts have lower quality standards? It simply won't improve at all the global quality of the regulator, I can only see it as a commercial “propaganda” with a physics non-sense: “hey look, my windows use aircraft technology...”
Plastic pulleys do not fail (I have all the buyers of my kit to prove it), all car manufacturers uses that same type of pulley for their billions of regulators, so I see no point replacing my lower pulley by an aircraft one, and I will not repeat my concerns about upper pulleys and safety devices
Greenberet: thank you for the interesting info, you are not the first one suggesting DELRIN could be a good long term choice. I am happy with Teflon and found no issues with it, and when we compare it with missing or damaged OEM rubber guides, Teflon or Delrin looks like a similar choice to me.
The way I see it, the mould belongs to the “community” (as it was made for and paid by the buyers of the kit, members of that community) so if some of you would prefer DELRIN (or any other type of plastic) rather than Teflon I will have DELRIN guides available, as all it takes now is to replace the powder before the plastic injection, the mould is the same. For the interested members, please start and sign up your name in the order list in vendor section for DELRIN guides for me to know how many to produce
Thank you
Hugo, I wasnt saying you should switch your pulley for the phenolic ones. As I said, I have your kit on my car and is happy with that. I was just pointing out that you worries about them is really nothing to worry about.
However, I too share your consern about how the top pulleys are fixed to the aluminium bracket and the strenght of that.
However, I too share your consern about how the top pulleys are fixed to the aluminium bracket and the strenght of that.
Hugo buddy you gotta relax.
I bought 3x of your early kits, they are still in the bag, and I got them to support your business.
However
1. You should welcome competition and new ideas. Never take competition as a threat, take it as a complement. If you need to improve your implementation, then do so. You have nothing to fear, ALWAYS give compliments to your competition.
Brad (OldMan) would be just as happy to have you make the absolute best design and sell that as well. If he was really gunning for your spot, he would not have tipped his hand and shown you what he was working on.
2. This is not your Vendor thread, while you started it and "own" most of it, it is for others to add their designs, comments and suggestions to all as well. Welcome to NSXprime!
3. May the best design win, that is the goal of any great company. Hugo, you have a very bright future, be magnanimous.
I bought 3x of your early kits, they are still in the bag, and I got them to support your business.
However
1. You should welcome competition and new ideas. Never take competition as a threat, take it as a complement. If you need to improve your implementation, then do so. You have nothing to fear, ALWAYS give compliments to your competition.
Brad (OldMan) would be just as happy to have you make the absolute best design and sell that as well. If he was really gunning for your spot, he would not have tipped his hand and shown you what he was working on.
2. This is not your Vendor thread, while you started it and "own" most of it, it is for others to add their designs, comments and suggestions to all as well. Welcome to NSXprime!
3. May the best design win, that is the goal of any great company. Hugo, you have a very bright future, be magnanimous.
Thank you drew for supporting my business, and do not worry, I am very relaxed :biggrin:
I was referring to this message of OLDMSX about his not-even-yet-made guides:
I will soon post the last problem I found on the nsx regulators: early 91-93 model bent levers, due to creep over 20years, hoping we can all discuss and find a solution for them.
Stay tuned! :wink:
I was referring to this message of OLDMSX about his not-even-yet-made guides:
. I don't see any ideas there, just pure nerve to advertise his products without any design, comment or suggestion debate. Anyway, at least now you all know why I gave up of upper pulleys and why my kit has only one pulley per window.
I will soon post the last problem I found on the nsx regulators: early 91-93 model bent levers, due to creep over 20years, hoping we can all discuss and find a solution for them.
Stay tuned! :wink:
Hugo is on the Job 100% ....always looking to solve our regulator problems. Keep up the good work.
Bram
Bram
shawn110975
Suspended
he has my support, my windows are fast enough for me, thanks to Hugo.
Hugo, your prime PM box is full...or I would have sent you this:
You've got cash
From Mikeyoung00.
Thanks for everything you do for the community.
You can ship to the verified ship-to address in the PayPal notification.
-Mike
You've got cash
From Mikeyoung00.
Thanks for everything you do for the community.
You can ship to the verified ship-to address in the PayPal notification.
-Mike
I don't have a dog in the fight but I can say that OLDMSX is a) probably old and b) very helpful here on Prime. Because this combination is so rare and should be encouraged
, please be gentle when suggesting an appropriate approach to offering nsx solutions on prime.More importantly, I look forward to getting details of the bent lever issue so I can take a peek at the regulators in my 91 while installing your upgrade kit.
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